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10-03-2001, 03:54 PM | #1 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 292
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Elmer, NJ USA
Vehicle:2011 BMW 535i Havana Metallic |
Tools/tips for BPM MKiii turbo-back install?
I have done some searching, but didn't find any definitive info on actually doing the complete turbo-back install.
My brother and I plan on trying to tackle this install on Friday. Are there any special/odd tools I will need? Any good tips/tricks on things to look out for, etc? What's the best way to ensure clearance will not be a problem? This can be the definitive thread! We won't have a lift, but I think it's doable. Might take a few hours. Thanks gang. Kevin www.forcefed4.com
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10-03-2001, 03:56 PM | #2 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 6049
Join Date: Apr 2001
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Jenison.Doomhammer
Vehicle:02 WRX & 99 RS Black |
You have the complete MKiii system?
I would be very interested in your results... |
10-03-2001, 04:25 PM | #3 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 292
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Elmer, NJ USA
Vehicle:2011 BMW 535i Havana Metallic |
I am getting the complete turbo-back, if that is what you are asking. According to Mike @ Exeter, the TT, MKiii, and GT all share the same pipes, it's just the rear that is different.
Am I a SPECIALIST now? Finally, after 2 years, I get 555 posts. Come on people, I know lots of you have installed BPM setups yourselves. Help us all out! :P Kevin www.forcefed4.com |
10-03-2001, 04:35 PM | #4 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 3574
Join Date: Jan 2001
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Vehicle:2002 WRX Blase' Yellow----R.I.P. |
Oh to answer your other question, it sounds better then the sound clips.
Most people are pretty impressed. A little loud without the baffle. I picked up 3 tenths and almost 2 mph in the 1/4 with just the exhaust install. This was on an otherwise stock car. I got mine for Mike also, they did the install too. Mike's a good guy to deal with. Bill |
10-03-2001, 04:39 PM | #5 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 4096
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Constantinople
Vehicle:noun [ ve·hi·cle ] a carrier,as of infection |
When you say you wont have a lift I assume that is not inclusive of jack and stands or ramps; you will need the clearance. Have anti seize available for replacement of all bolts, a breaker, small hands, and some luck. The issues revolve around removal of the heat shield ( pretty minimal really; The IC can be loosened or removed to allow better access and maneuverability ) and extraction of the turbo studs/bolts when they break on ya. Be ready to go to the store, insure you have gaskets ( you may even double them at the donut ). Pay particularly close attention when threading and/or un threading any nuts, as they seem to have a tendency to cross thread, even after releasing correctly and threading off or on 3/4 of the bolt. The down pipe needs to be fed up from the bottom, it can be handy to have an extra set of hands at this point, to control the pipe while it is being bolted, other than that, it is really a one man job ( outside the niceties of a wrench monkey to hand you the necessary tools ). Order of installation is up to you, I hung the cat back section from the rear hangers then installed the down pipe and brought them together, however, I have removed and re installed this exhaust several times, both when test fitting for other folks and pulling the engine for motec tuning, no order seemed particularly better than any other. Take your time and have fun...
SLR- |
10-03-2001, 07:47 PM | #6 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 6925
Join Date: May 2001
Location: San Antonio TX, USA
Vehicle:2006 Cayman S |
Re: Turbo back install
In addition to SLR's advice a couple more tips:
1. Try to spray down all the accessible nuts/bolts with WD40 or Liquid Wrench first, especially on the turbo manifold. I sprayed down the bolts on the exhaust flanges first, then went to take off the turbo heat shield (which can take a while). Then spray down the turbo studs/bolts and while they're soaking go back and take off the mid and exhaust pipes. 2. If you have the rear diff protector, don't even try to take the muffler section out by itself since one of the bolts is very hard to get to - much easier to drop the middle and end sections out as one unit (also easier to install the new one that way as well). 3. I don't know about the BPM downpipe specifically, but alot of the aftermarket downpipes require modification of the turbo heat shield to get it back on (i.e. hacking off part of it). I imagine you could use anything from a cutting torch to a hacksaw to accomplish it - I used an air chisel and grinder. |
10-03-2001, 08:09 PM | #7 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 292
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Elmer, NJ USA
Vehicle:2011 BMW 535i Havana Metallic |
Thanks for the great advice! This is exactly what I needed to know.
Only 2 other questions I have right now: 1) What tool did you use to remove the o2 sensor(s)? Anyone know what size it is? 2) Since it seems like a lot of people break the turbo->downpipe bolts, what size are they (so I can get some in advance)? Thanks again gang! Kevin |
10-03-2001, 08:53 PM | #8 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 6925
Join Date: May 2001
Location: San Antonio TX, USA
Vehicle:2006 Cayman S |
Re: installing turbo-back
Quote:
2) I believe the bolts (there are 2 bolts and 3 studs at the turbo/downpipe flange) are 10mm x 1.25 (fine), and around 35mm long (I think). Get extra-hardened (10.9 grade) if you can. I think if you lube them up first, and use steady pressure on the wrench (as opposed to jerking or hammering it) you shouldn't break any. Cheers, Andrew |
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