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04-19-2003, 01:36 AM | #1 |
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TurboXS TMIC install question
Got my TurboXS TMIC today and installed it tonight. I have 2 interrealated problems though. First is the silcone hose that goes over the turbo outlet is barely long enough to get it clamped on. I messed with it for about an hour, got the hair dryer out wamed it up so it would slide on nice an easy, but it still will only go on about 1/2", which is basically the width of the clamp. After I finally got it on there enough so that I could clamp it down I noticed that the I/C was shifted to the left towards the turbo leaving the I/C out let off center to the intake. I tried to tug the I/C to the right to get it lined up before I bolted it in but I notice that was tugging at the turbo outlet hose and with it clamped on the I/C was not going to move much to the right. I am not sure how much the I/C outlet being off center to the intake will effect flow but I am sure it will not help it. As far a turbo outlet hose being short, once I got it on as far as I could I tightened the crap out of the clamp so I should hope that it will not come off. I will probably give TurboXS a call Monday and ask about getting another outlet hose that is a little longer. Till then I will take it easy.
This is the first time that I have seen this, has anyone else had a similar problem.
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04-19-2003, 02:04 AM | #2 |
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When I installed my TXS ver. 1 i/c , I removed the drivers side I/C bracket and the drivers side a/c bracket then slid it in from drivers side. Slipping the hose over the turbo inlet 1st then the throttle body before replacing brackets and bolts. The ver.2 I/c is better fitting, but if you have a short inlet hose it won't matter which you have. Measure and post the length of silicone hose. Compare to what others have.
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04-19-2003, 02:21 AM | #3 | |
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04-19-2003, 07:52 AM | #4 |
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Just removed/re-installed mine last night, here's the trick. Remove the IC bracket on the drivers' side.
Loosely fit the clamp in the turbo inlet hose. Have the IC facing you (side that will eventually be facing up)above the throttle body. Slide the IC on the Throttle body first and move the back edge down. Don't tighten the hose clamps yet. Use a flathead screwdriver to get the turbo inlet hose started and work it around the best you can while wiggling the IC. Tighten the turbo inlet hose. Pull up on the IC and tighten the throttle body hose clamp (hose should remain on the throttle body during install). Re-install the drivers' side Ic bracket. Line up the IC mounting holes and tighten the two bolts. BTW a little lubricant or penetrating spray will help with the install of the hoses, rub a little on with your finger to the inside of the hoses. DD |
04-19-2003, 09:58 AM | #5 |
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I did take off the driver side I/C bracket per the instructions and that does help you slide it in. Also aside from waming up the out let hose I put a thin layer of lube around the inside. The hose it self went on no problem it just won't go on further then an 1/2" inch. I can get my hand under the I/C and to the elbow to help push it on further, but to really get it on any further I would need to push and hold it while someone else tightened the clamp.
I am going to roll it off the lift this monring and take a fresh look at it. I will snap a few picks if I am still having a problem and post them up. |
04-19-2003, 12:19 PM | #6 |
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Well taking another look at it this morning. The throttle body hose is bulging, I think that is why it looks crooked. When I install my NX kit in a month I will trip it down a 1/4-1/2" and that should help it.
The Turbo out let hose is on a little further then I thought but not buy much, there is about 1/2" still exposed. But after I took it out for a drive I pretty sure there is little chance of it coming off. I am running a HPMBC and knowing that the new I/C has less of a pressure drop I turned it down a little over 1 turn on the corse side, should have been 3 psi to make up for the reduced pressure drop. Well, in 2nd gear I hit 22psi (I let off very qucikly), I pulled over closed the bleed side all the way and turned the cose side out another two turns, but I was still hitting 20psi in first. I may open try opening the bleed side 2 or 3 turns and fullly opening the cose side. Per Phils instruction in an old thread this should net 1.2bar and I will go from there. Maybe it's time to switch to Closed Loop boost control on the UTEC. |
04-19-2003, 12:46 PM | #7 |
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y dont' u try to find a small section of pvc pipe of maybe 2-3 in. or so and get two more clamp.......then, cut your ic hose, portion going into the turbo, then use the pvc pipe to couple the pieces together, making your hose longer to reach ur turbo side
just a thought |
04-19-2003, 01:20 PM | #8 |
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i woudln't use pvc, it's too close to the turbo exhaust housing -> a lot of heat. if anything use a piece of aluminum tubing or something similar and insulate it. my mrt y-pipe has an aluminum coupler and two hose clamps near the Y part for some rigidity.
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04-19-2003, 04:09 PM | #9 |
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I will monitor it for a while but like I said above after a few runs where I was hitting 20+psi and it not coming off I feel confident in it staying on.
Well I closed the bleed side of the HPMBC and opened the corse side all the way so I should have been only getting actuator spring on the VF30 is rated for but was still getting 20psi in first (did not test the rest), which left me scratching my head. So I took that off, put the stock "T" in and hooked the FBC and ABC backup, and reflashed the UTEC to 2.5b. I am going to give closed loop a try so I need to go reload my maps and edit them for that. Troy |
04-19-2003, 04:47 PM | #10 |
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roybfr
It sounds like one of my guys may have installed the 90 degree silicon elbow on the cast y-pipe backwards when packing the intercooler.. having it installed backwards will do exactly what you have explained .... remove the intercooler and spin the silicon elbow around and it will fit perfectly... Just to make sure..one end of the silicon elbow is 51mm ID and the other is 48mm ID...the 48mm end goes onto the turbo outlet. Kevin |
04-19-2003, 07:50 PM | #11 |
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I had this problem the first time installing the V1 TMIC. Using a PE1818 the compressor housing outlet is a bit on the short side. The trick I used was to first slide the elbow onto the compressor housing with my hand under the IC while holding the IC in the air on the drivers side. This allowed me to get the elbow all the way onto the outlet. Then I wiggled the throttle body hose onto the throttle body (I kept the TB hose on the IC, clamped).
If you have any problems getting the compressor hose on, go buy some screw driver like pic tools (I dont know the exact name of them, they look like dentist tartar scrapers but larger). |
04-19-2003, 08:12 PM | #12 |
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Thanks Kevin I will give that a try.
I got my maps switched over to closed loop and the boost is back under control. I am still scratching my head on what was going on with the HPMBC as it was working before, even with adjustment to the corse and fine sides. On a funny side not I also switched out the high flow cat and put on a race pipe, so I installed a PonyExpress MIL eliminator to keep me from getting the P0420 CEL. Well I have a A/F gaguge that was tapping the rear O2 signal (yes I know it is pretty worthless). Well with the MIL eliminator the signal light would stay on even when the car was off so I had to unhook it. No big deal though as now I have a place to put my N2O pressure gauge. Troy |
04-28-2003, 11:30 AM | #13 |
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Just a small update on the boost side. Seems my righty tighty, lefty loosey got the best of me. The corse side of the HPMBC is reverse threaded. I was told this was so that on all the MBC's clock wise is lowering the boost and counter clock wise is rasing it. Oh well my only excuse is that it had been almost a year since I touched the corse side, I should have marked it. Reguarless I am in CLB heaven now, so anyone want a HPMBC.
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11-01-2004, 10:49 AM | #14 |
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oops
ah crap, wrong button
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11-01-2004, 02:11 PM | #15 | |
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