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Old 10-08-2011, 11:07 AM   #76
Kean
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Originally Posted by 07 TRex View Post
Question though. I dont have a buffer or anything, so ill be applying/removing clay/glaze/wax/detailer by hand. Do most people just use the foam applicators/microfiber towels for this.
....foam, cotton, microfiber applicators. It is really based on preference IMO/IME. I use all three but usually foam.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 07 TRex View Post
I'm also debating on investing on a good set of microfiber towels/detergent, think its worth the money?
Personally? ....yes, I do. However, that doesn't mean I believe one needs to go hog wild and buy a whole line of expensive towels for every task. For example, there are some inexpensive MF's I have found in various retail stores over the years that I found perfectly suitable for interior use, wheels, jambs, etc. ....saving my more expensive ones for painted panels, glass, drying, etc.

Also, cost does not guarantee quality. I have bought my fair share of expensive towels from what were supposed to be reputable sources only to be sorely disappointed (i.e. shedding/linting, overall quality, etc.). I strongly suggest that whatever towel(s) you decide to buy that you do it in "sample quantities" first. Test them out and then buy more if you are satisfied.

As far as MF detergents, I use Micro Restore myself but there are plenty of folks out there who use retail detergents with good success. The key is to find one that is free rinsing and without any heavy perfumes, etc. I also pre-soak some of my towels in an APC prior to washing them depending on the product or task they were used for.
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Old 10-08-2011, 11:19 AM   #77
Kean
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Originally Posted by Subydude81 View Post
You can wash your microfibers in the washing machine, but don't use the dryer or harsh chemicals.
MF towels are typically made up of polyester and polyamide fibers (border material can vary). Both have melting points well above that which your wash water or a properly functioning dryer can achieve (upwards of 400 F IIRC). In fact, I have seen some examples (of towels purchased by fellow members on detailing websites) where the manufacturer/distributor actually recommended boiling their towels prior to use.

I’ve followed many discussions on the subject over the years between enthusiasts, professional detailers, vendors and even textile experts on various detailing forums. With what I gathered from my own experiences doing many loads and the experience of others mentioned above, I am confident (odd issues aside) that there is no harm in at least washing in hot water and drying on a low setting. The only problem I can think of might be shrinkage issues with the border material on some towels that could cause "crinkling"/ruffling of the edges.

Aside from all that, I have so many towels that "hang drying" is simply not feasible in my case and would take me forever. ....and call me anal but I also don't like the idea of exposing my towels to potential contamination that might land on them as they are left out.
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Old 10-08-2011, 11:26 AM   #78
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Originally Posted by LethalMonk6 View Post
What about clay bars, when do you know you need a new one? Can you "clean" the junk off the clay bar?
....yes. You can use your lube/detailer to clean the exposed surface and pick off any of the larger contaminants. Some manufacturers even make dedicated clay cleaners:

http://www.autogeek.net/blackfire-clay-cleaner.html

Personally, considering the cost of the clay and the time involved in trying to clean it just to get some more life from it, it just isn't worth it to me.
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Old 10-09-2011, 08:55 AM   #79
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Nufinish I believe it's called. Best paste wax for the money. It's in an orange can with black writing. They also make a gel, but the wax will last longer of course.
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Old 10-09-2011, 12:32 PM   #80
jayzpadilla
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Can someone give an example of a product for each step? I get confused when it says "Compound", and then goes to "Swirl Remover" then "Polish Finisher" then "Glaze" and finally "Sealant /Wax". Oh and the quick detailer which I already know about. I just don't want to use the wrong product for the steps and then it turn out bad.
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Old 10-09-2011, 02:16 PM   #81
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If using a compound you will need to follow with a polish

Glaze is nothing more than a filler. Will not get rid of defects only fills them in and not all that well. The glaze will eventually wear off and the defects will re-appear.
I hate glazes as most suck at filling much of anything.

Compound, polish, finishing polish then wax
Just get the 3m compound and use it by hand and then follow it with there 3m polish followed by a wax. Not that complex.
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Old 10-09-2011, 02:38 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subydude81
If using a compound you will need to follow with a polish

Glaze is nothing more than a filler. Will not get rid of defects only fills them in and not all that well. The glaze will eventually wear off and the defects will re-appear.
I hate glazes as most suck at filling much of anything.

Compound, polish, finishing polish then wax
Just get the 3m compound and use it by hand and then follow it with there 3m polish followed by a wax. Not that complex.
Ahh i see now. Thanks for the help. I was confusd on what exact product it is and what it says on the label.
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Old 10-09-2011, 03:28 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayzpadilla

Ahh i see now. Thanks for the help. I was confusd on what exact product it is and what it says on the label.
New car
Wash - mequiar polish - mequair next gen 2 - mequir high gloss -

3-5 years car
Wash - mequiar(show car edition) fine swirl remover - clay bar (optional) mequiar or mother - mequiar (sho car edition) wax 26 - mequair high gloss finish

5-10 years
Wash - compound - polish - clay bar - wax 26 - high gloss finish and probably one more wax carnauba.

U can exhange ur fav wax with any brand - there one $3000 wax but its all about preference ... U can use also carnauba wax.

Mequiar car show edition is a great product , sold almost everywhere but u can play with it and enjoy which one u like.

Sorry my english writting no really perfect...hope this help
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Old 10-09-2011, 03:34 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayzpadilla View Post
Can someone give an example of a product for each step? I get confused when it says "Compound", and then goes to "Swirl Remover" then "Polish Finisher" then "Glaze" and finally "Sealant /Wax". Oh and the quick detailer which I already know about. I just don't want to use the wrong product for the steps and then it turn out bad.
....the problem is that while there may be generally recognized definitions for these product classes, there is no standardization in the industry. Very generally speaking:

Compounds are generally more aggressive than polishes at removing defects. "Swirl removers" and "polish" are basically synonymous. Polishes and compounds all have varying levels of abrasiveness so something labeled as a "finishing polish" will likely be very light (meant to be used after a a heavier polish, compound, etc.).

Glazes are generally not abrasive but some can be. They typically will contain heavy fillers/oils to help darken the finish, help fill light blemishes, etc. These actually can be quite effective depending on the product, your finish and your ultimate goal. ....especially on single stage paints but also on modern clears. They are not only used for just masking flaws.

When someone says "wax", they usually tie it to a natural carnauba product but these days it can mean just about anything IMO/IME. A "sealant" is usually some sort of synthetic product that can typically last longer than a natural wax but it really depends on the product and other variables. ....then there are semi-permanent products (like nano-sealants), permanent sealants (like Optimum Opti-Coat, WOWA's (wipe on, walk away), WOWO (wipe on, wipe off), pastes, liquids, etc., etc.....

The fact of the matter is that even if a product shares a classification, it can be different than others in its own group. ....polishes with heavy polishing oils that act like a glaze (i.e. Meguiars Ultimate Polish), hybrid carnauba waxes with synthetic components (Wolfgang Fuzion), compounds that finish almost like a polish (Meguiars Ultimate Compound)..... The list goes on and on.
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Old 10-09-2011, 03:46 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kean

....the problem is that while there may be generally recognized definitions for these product classes, there is no standardization in the industry. Very generally speaking:

Compounds are generally more aggressive than polishes at removing defects. "Swirl removers" and "polish" are basically synonymous. Polishes and compounds all have varying levels of abrasiveness so something labeled as a "finishing polish" will likely be very light (meant to be used after a a heavier polish, compound, etc.).

Glazes are generally not abrasive but some can be. They typically will contain heavy fillers/oils to help darken the finish, help fill light blemishes, etc. These actually can be quite effective depending on the product, your finish and your ultimate goal. ....especially on single stage paints but also on modern clears. They are not only used for just masking flaws.

When someone says "wax", they usually tie it to a natural carnauba product but these days it can mean just about anything IMO/IME. A "sealant" is usually some sort of synthetic product that can typically last longer than a natural wax but it really depends on the product and other variables. ....then there are semi-permanent products (like nano-sealants), permanent sealants (like Optimum Opti-Coat, WOWA's (wipe on, walk away), WOWO (wipe on, wipe off), pastes, liquids, etc., etc.....

The fact of the matter is that even if a product shares a classification, it can be different than others in its own group. ....polishes with heavy polishing oils that act like a glaze (i.e. Meguiars Ultimate Polish), hybrid carnauba waxes with synthetic components (Wolfgang Fuzion), compounds that finish almost like a polish (Meguiars Ultimate Compound)..... The list goes on and on.
Yes , u have to play with thos products and enjoy which give ur personal satisfaction the most ....
My girl friend only use turtle wax over 10 years for her camry ... Her car paint seems looka great but of course its very hard to tell which best wax , polish, sealant , compound.
L
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Old 10-09-2011, 04:23 PM   #86
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Originally Posted by subarugirlfanatic View Post
My baby is only two weeks old....eventually she will need to be waxed. What is the best wax to use for my 2011 Subaru??
For a long lasting sealant I use this, usually use this in the fall so the car has protection all winter. Then switch to the wax in the nicer weather.
http://www.chemicalguys.com/Auto_Det..._p/wac_110.htm

Or for a wax I use this.
http://www.chemicalguys.com/Showroom..._p/gap_104.htm
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Old 10-09-2011, 09:55 PM   #87
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It's best
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Old 12-26-2011, 03:45 PM   #88
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I use Smartwax, it gives me great results, its 100% carnauba. http://www.smartwax-usa.com/
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Old 12-26-2011, 04:16 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beecha91

For a long lasting sealant I use this, usually use this in the fall so the car has protection all winter. Then switch to the wax in the nicer weather.
http://www.chemicalguys.com/Auto_Det..._p/wac_110.htm

Or for a wax I use this.
http://www.chemicalguys.com/Showroom..._p/gap_104.htm
Your wax would be a glaze.. Glazes are for show and not durability.
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Old 12-26-2011, 05:47 PM   #90
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Originally Posted by bugeyesubie117 View Post
I use Smartwax, it gives me great results, its 100% carnauba. http://www.smartwax-usa.com/
....just an fyi but when a product is advertised as "100% carnauba", they are talking about the actual wax content in the container (not the entire product itself). These products will contain various ratios of actual carnauba wax that can vary anywhere from something like 5% to 30% or more.
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Old 12-26-2011, 09:33 PM   #91
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Originally Posted by jrank3792 View Post
Collinite 845.

/thread
+1 for Collinite no.845, it's a marine wax used for salt water boats, perfect for the northeast or any coastal area. Its $20 per qt(2 waxes) very typical applica. Good call.
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Old 12-26-2011, 10:52 PM   #92
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Originally Posted by Homi View Post
+1 for Collinite no.845, it's a marine wax used for salt water boats, perfect for the northeast or any coastal area.
....actually, it's marketed as a wax for automotive, RV, marine and industrial use and is in the automotive section of their website (they have marine-specific products if that is what you are looking for). 845's roots are in helping to protect high voltage insulators (hence the name "Insulator Wax").
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Old 12-27-2011, 08:25 AM   #93
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I use collinate 845 myself. Goes on nice and comes off nice also. Very good wax.
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Old 12-27-2011, 10:03 PM   #94
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I like Megs Ultimate Liquid Wax. Great protection and looks fantastic. You have to apply it super thin or it streaks though. I'm still working on perfecting that. I just got a GG polisher for Christmas so hopefully that will help.

I have a sample of Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 that I hope to try out this spring. I'll probably top it with some Pinnacle.

I'd also like to try out Collinate 845.
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Old 12-27-2011, 10:06 PM   #95
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Originally Posted by soloz2 View Post
I like Megs Ultimate Liquid Wax. Great protection and looks fantastic. You have to apply it super thin or it streaks though. I'm still working on perfecting that. I just got a GG polisher for Christmas so hopefully that will help.

I have a sample of Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 that I hope to try out this spring. I'll probably top it with some Pinnacle.

I'd also like to try out Collinate 845.
....WG DGPS is currently what's on my Challenger. I'll wager you'll like it.
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Old 12-27-2011, 10:23 PM   #96
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Has anyone here tried Dodo Juice Purple?
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Old 12-27-2011, 10:44 PM   #97
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Originally Posted by Da-Risin-Smoke
Has anyone here tried Dodo Juice Purple?
+1 for Wolfgang.

Purple Haze is awesome. As with any Dodo Juice product. I use Banana Armour regularly on my cars and clients.
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Old 12-28-2011, 11:04 PM   #98
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I always used Wolfgang prewax enhancer then WG Deep Gloss Paint Sealant(is now 3.0), topped with Pinnacle signature series carnauba wax(now it's Signature Series II). I am still using Wolfgang products from 5-6 years ago, so that tells you they last, and a little goes along way.
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Old 01-01-2012, 05:27 PM   #99
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p21 is good also.fellow detailer
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Old 01-01-2012, 05:47 PM   #100
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Originally Posted by eurotek View Post
p21 is good also.fellow detailer
I own various waxes from Mequire to Mothers and even some fancy car show stuff yet I still go back to P21s. I've been using it for 5 years now. Works best on deep dark colors. It work best on my Blue Ridge Pearl RS than it does on my WRB Wrx but it still works better than all the other waxes I own. Good recommendation Eurotek
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