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03-14-2018, 04:06 PM | #1 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 483367
Join Date: Mar 2018
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1999 Impreza L No Crank, No electronics.
So, Not really an owner yet, but in the process of buying an Impreza from a buddy of mine. 1999 Impreza L, He says it has the EJ25. Non Turbo, Pulled and swapped from a Forester the thinks, but not certain.
Previous issue was that it would run for like 3 seconds, and would die out. Everything checked out except for fuel. Replaced the Fuel pump, and it started running a little bit longer, about 7 seconds. there was no hesitation to start. So we were getting somewhere. It was still stalling out, so I pulled the Idle Air Control Valve, and was very dirty. Cleaned her up, and re-installed. After re-installing the IAC, and now the biggest issue has started. Here are the main things: No Crank No Click of Starter No Dash Lights No Headlights No CEL No Blinkers Now what still works: Beeping for Door Ajar (when key in ignition) and dash light for it Hazard Lights Door locks Brake Lights Horn Battery is Fully Charged, and all Grounds/Contacts were cleaned No Blown Fuses, all Relays check out. Does anyone have any ideas?
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03-14-2018, 05:05 PM | #2 |
NASIOC Supporter
Member#: 30669
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: USA, North NJ, 07456
Vehicle:1998 Legacy 2.5GT Silver Sleeper BK, 5MT |
Well, that least you seem to be further than some that post similar.
What is battery voltage at the battery? What does battery voltage do when turning the key? Does chassis voltage match battery voltage? What does chassis voltage do when you turn the key? Have you metered fuses, or just looked? Looking sorta sucks, metering is best. Also monitor battery voltage to help rule out bad battery/chassis cables. Meter both at the battery as well as at the chassis. Low amp draw will mask lots of electrical issues. Higher amp draw (headlights, cranking, etc.) will make issues show up. Where the heck are you?!?! Maybe a local can help you out, but we have no clue where you are. There, now you have ideas. Check and report back. |
03-14-2018, 05:05 PM | #3 |
NASIOC Supporter
Member#: 30669
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: USA, North NJ, 07456
Vehicle:1998 Legacy 2.5GT Silver Sleeper BK, 5MT |
Well, that least you seem to be further than some that post similar.
What is battery voltage at the battery? What does battery voltage do when turning the key? Does chassis voltage match battery voltage? What does chassis voltage do when you turn the key? Have you metered fuses, or just looked? Looking sorta sucks, metering is best. Also monitor battery voltage to help rule out bad battery/chassis cables. Meter both at the battery as well as at the chassis. Low amp draw will mask lots of electrical issues. Higher amp draw (headlights, cranking, etc.) will make issues show up. Where the heck are you?!?! Maybe a local can help you out, but we have no clue where you are. There, now you have ideas. Check and report back. |
03-14-2018, 05:07 PM | #4 |
NASIOC Supporter
Member#: 30669
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: USA, North NJ, 07456
Vehicle:1998 Legacy 2.5GT Silver Sleeper BK, 5MT |
BTW, we just sold our "original owner" '99 Impreza L wagon with about 240K miles on it.
I sorta know the car. |
03-14-2018, 05:25 PM | #5 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 483367
Join Date: Mar 2018
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I'm not near the car, its halfway across town (Tucson, AZ btw). I've checked the voltage on the battery, 12.6v. And just to rule out the possibility of an internal short upon load of the battery, I used another battery from my Jeep Cherokee. Nothing helped. I didn't check much else for voltage, but i did check continuity of the ground cables and the fuses. Everything checked out there. Metering at the chassis was good as well.
I'm was wondering if the ECU got locked up. My Cherokee had the ECU lock up on me when I did my Stroker build, but with the jeeps its as simple as draining the system with the battery terminals, turning the key, turning on the headlights, and then reconnecting the battery. |
03-14-2018, 07:47 PM | #6 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 53443
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Anchorage, AK
Vehicle:2001 LL Bean Outback Winestone |
The things you stated that are working do not run through the ignition switch but the things you say don't work are controlled by the ignition switch. Fuse SBF-4 in the panel under the hood supplies power to the ignition switch so verify that fuse and all the others inside there are good and at least SBF-4 has power to it. If the fuse is passing power then check to see if that power is getting to the white lead going to the ignition switch with the switch in the RUN position. If you have no power then turn the switch off and check the voltage again. If you now have voltage (due to no load current) you have confirmed a bad connection between the fuse and the switch. Check the connection at the fuse panel first.
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03-14-2018, 08:29 PM | #7 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 483367
Join Date: Mar 2018
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I'll definitely take a look at that. I'm going to be heading over to his place in about an hour, if you guys could give me anything else to look at in the mean time, that would be greatly appreciated. also, is there any way to just strait bypass the ignition switch? basically hot-wire his car to see if it is for sure the ignition switch?
He said it hasn't worked well anyway (can't turn the switch 100%, has to be like 90% to actually crank the starter.) |
03-14-2018, 08:36 PM | #8 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 53443
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Anchorage, AK
Vehicle:2001 LL Bean Outback Winestone |
You can bypass the switch by jumping the other wires of the switch to power. Just don't tie the starter wire (white/black) to continuous power, just when you start the engine.
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03-14-2018, 11:31 PM | #9 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 483367
Join Date: Mar 2018
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Okay so we have determined that the ignition switch does bugger all for anything. Tried hot-wiring it and nothing. Going to try to jump the starter soon after some wire chasing
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03-15-2018, 12:00 AM | #10 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 483367
Join Date: Mar 2018
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We shorted the starter, and nothing. Crank and crank and crank... Any ideas?
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03-15-2018, 03:10 AM | #11 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 3409
Join Date: Jan 2001
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Oly
Vehicle:98 My FMIC Is bigger than yours. |
I'm not sure on that year in particular, but I know I've replaced the electrical portion of the ignition switch separate from the lock cylinder.
Unplug the electrical connector from the ignition switch and check continuity between the poles in various key positions. I don't know off the top of my head which pin goes to which position, but you should have one pin that's your power IN, then at least a pin out for RUN, ACC, and Start. If you don't find continuity between the IN and those three outs based on key position, the switch is bad. While you're doing that, you can also make a jumper wire and jump the IN/RUN pins on the car side of that connector, then jump the starter and see if it fires up. Simply jumping the starter without having power going to the main relay/ECU and other stuff will result in the engine turning over and little else. |
03-15-2018, 01:35 PM | #12 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 53443
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Anchorage, AK
Vehicle:2001 LL Bean Outback Winestone |
From what I can determine from your last two replies you think the ignition switch is bad and tried to jump it somehow but it didn't change things. When you jumped the switch did you verify that power was getting to the points you jumped too? I don't think you did something correctly. Please let me know what the voltages are at the points I mentioned in post #6, especially at both ends of the white wire while the ignition is ON.
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