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Old 01-01-2021, 09:45 PM   #151
parker
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Aluminum has it's properties.

Looks pretty good to me...
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Old 01-02-2021, 12:09 AM   #152
speedyHAM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDwhiteWRX View Post
I did some test welding yesterday on some of the scrap cast aluminum I cut off the valve cover just to see how it welds and how well it might clean up after with a flap disc and file finish.

It was not as difficult as expected so as long as I can manage the heat I have a lot more confidence in the project now.

Looking pretty good. A method to avoid warping when welding is to make short welds and let the piece cool in between each weld. Minimizing the heat input to any one area is key, while maintaining the overall part temperature stable (between 120 and 150F) during welding is very important. Preheat of the entire part is useful to maintain dimensional stability during welding.
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Old 01-02-2021, 12:10 AM   #153
speedyHAM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDwhiteWRX View Post
I did some test welding yesterday on some of the scrap cast aluminum I cut off the valve cover just to see how it welds and how well it might clean up after with a flap disc and file finish.

It was not as difficult as expected so as long as I can manage the heat I have a lot more confidence in the project now.
Looking pretty good. A method to avoid warping when welding is to make short welds and let the piece cool in between each weld. Minimizing the heat input to any one area is key, while maintaining the overall part temperature stable (between 120 and 150F) during welding is very important. Preheat of the entire part is useful to maintain dimensional stability during welding.
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Old 01-03-2021, 12:50 PM   #154
subydude
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I tend to stitch the piece in alternating sections. Basically divide the piece into quarters and weld each one alternating with the one furthest away to keep the heat in the part even.

The other trick is having the part bolted to something or mated to another surface so it can't warp while welding. This is key for exhaust welding as the flanges are the first to warp.
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Old 01-07-2021, 06:23 AM   #155
JDwhiteWRX
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I finished the welding last night, it took a long time because I was letting it cool off a fair bit and only welding about 1" at a time.

I could not be happier with how good it came out, its not warped at all which is not surprising as I never let it get very hot.

I'll post a bunch of photos showing the full process once its painted but here is a sneak peak. I still need to weld a bung into it as a breather to the dry sump tank.

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Old 01-07-2021, 12:29 PM   #156
WhiteZombie
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Nice work!
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Old 01-07-2021, 08:06 PM   #157
Kochi_STi
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Looking good. Can't wait to see the finished product.
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Old 01-11-2021, 06:42 AM   #158
JDwhiteWRX
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ok it's finally finished! I'm super happy with how good it came out, looks like a bought one.

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Old 01-11-2021, 08:14 AM   #159
chanomatik
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That's perfect!
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Old 01-23-2021, 08:03 PM   #160
JDwhiteWRX
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My transmission adapter and clutch kit arrived yesterday from PMC Motorsport. Everything looks good except they didn't include a clutch release bearing, not a big deal I should be able to get one locally.

https://i.imgur.com/a9JEJJy.jpg?1

I don't have an engine crane at the moment so I had fun lifting the engine onto a dolly so I could slide it out and test fit the adapter.

https://i.imgur.com/oKr5QmB.jpg?1

Now I just need to figure out how I am going to mount the engine permanently in the car. The lowest point of the engine trans combo is actually the front of the trans, it hangs lower than the stock oil pan. We are currently in the middle of a heatwave so work might be a little slow going but big things are finally happening.
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Old 01-26-2021, 05:20 AM   #161
JDwhiteWRX
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I have started working on getting the engine mounted in the car, first step was to make a basic low profile dolly long enough to carry the engine and trans mounted together.

https://i.imgur.com/ifPW9kn.jpg?1

It cost me about $30 in material, the castors are cast iron so they can easily take they weight, it works really nice.

https://i.imgur.com/7pCx8Xc.jpg?2

I tried to slide the engine into position but the reinforcement in the tunnel stopped it going as far back as allowed under the rules.

https://i.imgur.com/FHcceva.jpg?1

Removing the reinforcement was not fun at all, especially during the heatwave that just ended today. 2.16kg in total.

https://i.imgur.com/yyUdYOX.jpg?1

All gone!

https://i.imgur.com/AJ24KVF.jpg?1

The engine could now slide back as far as I needed with some room to spare. I also took opportunity while the car was up in the air to lower the rear differential so I would have a better alignment and lower COG.

https://i.imgur.com/pP57KFU.jpg?1

These next 2 photos show the engine basically 99% in its final position. I have ordered a laser pointer to get it in the exact position.
You can see it sits reasonably low and a fair way back.

https://i.imgur.com/IrgUw6Z.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/yoqmZBe.jpg?1

Next step is to figure out engine mounts, steering rack mounts and basically triangulating everything together.
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Old 01-26-2021, 11:21 AM   #162
WhiteZombie
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Tucked way back! Not bad!

Did you have a goal date for completion/competition? Sorry if I missed it earlier in the thread.
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Old 01-26-2021, 04:20 PM   #163
JDwhiteWRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteZombie View Post
Tucked way back! Not bad!

Did you have a goal date for completion/competition? Sorry if I missed it earlier in the thread.
Not really, I'm 4 years in already so the project is already the same age as my youngest son. I just work on the car when I find the time and I don't want any deadline as it just becomes a chore not something to enjoy.
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Old 01-26-2021, 05:47 PM   #164
WhiteZombie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDwhiteWRX View Post
Not really, I'm 4 years in already so the project is already the same age as my youngest son. I just work on the car when I find the time and I don't want any deadline as it just becomes a chore not something to enjoy.
Good deal. Just curious. At least you're on the right continent for WTAC if you were ever going all out with it.
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Old 02-02-2021, 12:02 AM   #165
JDwhiteWRX
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I spent some time on the weekend installing everything into the rear end. All control arms, drive shafts and the new 5x114.3 wheel bearings.

https://i.imgur.com/KMCZwWm.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/Rsm0Wi3.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/P2PaOgy.jpg?1

My laser pointer arrived today so I should be able to line the engine up correctly with the rear differential and then look into making some mounts.
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Old 02-09-2021, 10:58 AM   #166
wrxracer519
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awesome work, looks great. Excited to see more progress on your project.
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Old 02-14-2021, 06:33 PM   #167
JDwhiteWRX
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I've been going back and forth with the design of the front end for the past 2 weeks. I am now confident with what I have come up with so work has begun.
I was trying to design a way of mounting the engine that is strong enough but not over done and heavy. It's not just the engine but the whole front end needs triangulation that ties back into the roll cage because I have removed so much metal.

Speaking of removing metal, the front came off yesterday

https://i.imgur.com/dE9Zkq5.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/0nzXDcz.jpg?1

I am not 100% sure how I am going to cap off the frame rails yet so I had to use a hole saw to cut the lower part out so I could mount the steering rack at the correct height.

https://i.imgur.com/mfA5A8a.jpg?1

I've ordered some polyurethane bushings for mounting the engine and gearbox, they are not very large so should be very stiff but take the edge off the vibrations.
I did think about solid mounting it all but I don't really want everything vibrating undone all the time and this way I still have the option of replacing the poly with nylon if I decide I want it solid at a later date.
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Old Today, 05:10 AM   #168
JDwhiteWRX
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I haven't updated this thread for a while but lots of things have been happening.

I have got my poly mounts for the engine and the gearbox, I'll post some photos when I have mounted the engine.

I bought myself an engine crane and engine stand to make my life easier. I needed to flip the engine over and modify the sump so there would be space for the main crossmember.

https://i.imgur.com/o8NhwWk.jpg?1

I have placed an order for an AT Power belt driven dry sump kit but I did not order the billet oil pan with it to try and save some money. Due to Covid it will take 8 weeks to arrive.

Not to worry I just need to make an oil pan and then I can continue getting the engine and transmission mounted in the car.

Version 1 of the dry sump oil pan involved cutting the base off the OEM pan and then a lot of CAD to form the desired shape.

https://i.imgur.com/FAg02NU.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/Gc3Vu8U.jpg?1

I went as far as tracing all the cardboard templates onto some sheet metal and then cutting them all out and bending them to shape.

https://i.imgur.com/KaK27zV.jpg?1

It was then I realised I was never going to be able to beat the metal into shape well enough to close up all the gaps and weld it together.

So I went back to the drawing board and came up with a very simplified design that was much easier to cut out and will be relatively simple to weld.

https://i.imgur.com/nmcN7wx.jpg?1

The engine is on a 13 degree tilt so oil will run down to the box section in the bottom of the pan where I will have two -12 lines running to the external oil pump. I have also added a notch that will give extra clearance for my tubular crossmember and to some degree separate the scavenge stages from each other.

https://i.imgur.com/g3qTsdL.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/WRCZnq7.jpg?1

It's all ready to weld, I'm just waiting for the -12 AN weld on fitting to arrive.
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