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Old 05-08-2013, 10:17 AM   #126
sexyyrex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
Yes, mine turns on in the Acc position and stays on once the car is on and the key is in the On position. It runs all the time when the car is on. It obviously turns off when I shut the car off.


The first picture is how mine is setup. It runs any time there is power (on or acc position). It shuts off when I pull the key out.

The second picture would retain the factory pump control. It takes care of the power wire issue on the positive side, but not the negative. This is why I don't use it.


Correct.
Is your re-wire and relay back by the FPC in the trunk or right next to the fuel pump?
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:28 AM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
Yes, mine turns on in the Acc position and stays on once the car is on and the key is in the On position. It runs all the time when the car is on. It obviously turns off when I shut the car off.

The first picture is how mine is setup. It runs any time there is power (on or acc position). It shuts off when I pull the key out.

The second picture would retain the factory pump control. It takes care of the power wire issue on the positive side, but not the negative. This is why I don't use it.

Correct.
Thanks! Ill put it back to the way I had it. Like yours. I figured I did something wrong. Lol.
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Old 05-08-2013, 01:31 PM   #128
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Stop being paranoid, there are multiple sources available that state the current carrying capacity of PVC insulated wiring. The wire in my 2012 STI sedan is 18AWG PVC insulated capable of handling 16 amps at a distance of ~8ft. The insulation has a melting point of 105*c and it is one cable bundle, so it doesn't have any derating factors. It is perfectly safe to run a 10awg wire from your battery (relay switched) directly into your fuel pump connector (wired the correct way) and use the OEM return. It is not good for your fuel pump to run 100% all the time, unless it was designed to do so. The entire reason for doing this is to decrease voltage drop. If you really want to get froggy about it, you can use a solid state relay from crydom and use that to switch a straight ground to chassis that uses the OEM FPC return line as an input.

J1128_201210
this is the SAE document number for low voltage primary cable

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
this website has a chart on cable size selection that is accurate

Last edited by dstroy; 05-08-2013 at 01:34 PM. Reason: documentation
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Old 05-08-2013, 02:36 PM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dstroy View Post
Stop being paranoid, there are multiple sources available that state the current carrying capacity of PVC insulated wiring. The wire in my 2012 STI sedan is 18AWG PVC insulated capable of handling 16 amps at a distance of ~8ft. The insulation has a melting point of 105*c and it is one cable bundle, so it doesn't have any derating factors. It is perfectly safe to run a 10awg wire from your battery (relay switched) directly into your fuel pump connector (wired the correct way) and use the OEM return. It is not good for your fuel pump to run 100% all the time, unless it was designed to do so. The entire reason for doing this is to decrease voltage drop. If you really want to get froggy about it, you can use a solid state relay from crydom and use that to switch a straight ground to chassis that uses the OEM FPC return line as an input.

J1128_201210
this is the SAE document number for low voltage primary cable

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
this website has a chart on cable size selection that is accurate
What is the voltage drop with all OEM wiring? What is the voltage drop when you hardwire the pump positive and use the OEM negative wiring and FPC? What is the voltage drop when you hardwire the pump positive and the ground? What is the current capacity of the OEM FPC?

My main concern is the current through the OEM FPC. I have no idea what it's limits are. I would rather run a pump 100% of the time (10,000 hour life) than run the risk of damaging the OEM FPC and at worst causing a fire risk.
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Old 05-08-2013, 02:43 PM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
What is the voltage drop with all OEM wiring? What is the voltage drop when you hardwire the pump positive and use the OEM negative wiring and FPC? What is the voltage drop when you hardwire the pump positive and the ground? What is the current capacity of the OEM FPC?

My main concern is the current through the OEM FPC. I have no idea what it's limits are. I would rather run a pump 100% of the time (10,000 hour life) than run the risk of damaging the OEM FPC and at worst causing a fire risk.
Reading through Phatbotti's tuning thread, I've found a few people running and using the walbro 400's ground to the FPC for the OEM ECU use of duty cycles. Where are you guys locating your relays? http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2277357

it's toward the end of the thread
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Old 05-08-2013, 02:47 PM   #131
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What is the cost to replace the fuel pump controller?

There also seems to be many people who run pumps 100%. At the hours you get out of pump most likely you will be replacing the filter before it goes bad anyways an if you are going to replace the filter you might as well replace the whole thing.
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Old 05-08-2013, 02:48 PM   #132
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What is the cost to replace the fuel pump controller?
I read somewhere 100$ wholesale

here ones on ebay for 59$

http://compare.ebay.com/like/2909107...Types&var=sbar

some kind of part number

Last edited by sexyyrex; 05-08-2013 at 02:58 PM.
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Old 05-08-2013, 02:50 PM   #133
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I read somewhere 100$ wholesale
Well that is cheap enough for an experiment if I felt up to doing it. Hmmm.
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Old 05-08-2013, 02:53 PM   #134
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Well that is cheap enough for an experiment if I felt up to doing it. Hmmm.
Where did you locate your re-wired relay?
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Old 05-08-2013, 02:58 PM   #135
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My relay is right under the back seat. The foam is soft and compliant enough that you don't notice it. Plus my daughter's child seat is over it anyways.
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Old 05-08-2013, 02:59 PM   #136
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My relay is right under the back seat. The foam is soft and compliant enough that you don't notice it. Plus my daughter's child seat is over it anyways.
So, its wired in right above the fuel pump basically?
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Old 05-08-2013, 03:05 PM   #137
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My wires to the pump go through the grommet of the cover and to the top of the hat.
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Old 05-08-2013, 03:56 PM   #138
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My wires to the pump go through the grommet of the cover and to the top of the hat.
Do you have any wires the run the full length from the FPC to the FP? If so, which?
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Old 05-08-2013, 04:36 PM   #139
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The only wire that I have tha connects back to the FPC is the positive from FPC to the relay that acts as the switch to turn on the pump. I splice into that wire between the pump an the connector under the seat.
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Old 05-09-2013, 09:54 AM   #140
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^^

Same as me. Fp is grounded to chassis as is the relay. Only wire from the fpc is the black/yellow to trigger the relay. Pump comes on with ign and stays on at 100% the entire time it is operating. I like this as the relay isn't getting worked really hard. I am keeping a spare relay in the car at all times.
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Old 05-09-2013, 11:34 AM   #141
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Just to clarify for these folks in the 08+ STi for the 100% wiring:


the FP to FPC line that gets (for switch) cut is which color that is switched is which color? (pin 5)
the FP to FPC line that gets cut(for ground) and grounds to chassis is which color? (pin 1-6)

Last edited by sexyyrex; 05-09-2013 at 11:45 AM.
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Old 05-09-2013, 11:45 AM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sexyyrex View Post
Just to clarify for these folks in the 08+ STi for the 100% wiring:

the FP to FPC line that gets (for switch) cut is which color that is switched is which color? (pin 5)
the FP to FPC line that gets cut(for ground) and grounds to chassis is which color?
Colors can be seen here:

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Old 05-09-2013, 11:53 AM   #143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sexyyrex View Post
Just to clarify for these folks in the 08+ STi for the 100% wiring:

the FP to FPC line that gets (for switch) cut is which color that is switched is which color? (pin 5)
the FP to FPC line that gets cut(for ground) and grounds to chassis is which color? (pin 1-6)
Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
Colors can be seen here:
Thank you very much. so the answers are
Quote:
Originally Posted by sexyyrex View Post
the FP to FPC line that gets (for switch) cut is which color that is switched is which color? (pin 5-5)
GY is Green with a Yellow stripe (Positive)

Quote:
Originally Posted by sexyyrex View Post
the FP to FPC line that gets cut(for ground) and grounds to chassis is which color? (pin 1-6)
GR is Green with a Red stripe (Negative)

Last edited by sexyyrex; 05-09-2013 at 01:09 PM.
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Old 05-09-2013, 12:23 PM   #144
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GY is Green with a Yellow stripe (Positive)
GR is Green with a Red stripe (Negative)
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Old 05-09-2013, 01:08 PM   #145
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Originally Posted by xluben View Post
GY is Green with a Yellow stripe (Positive)
GR is Green with a Red stripe (Negative)
perfect.
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Old 05-12-2013, 01:01 AM   #146
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I wired up my pump tonight using the DW direct wire kit. I have the relay set up as said in this thread, with the battery across from the green/yellow wire on the pump side on the relay, and the ground across from the green/yellow wire on the chassis side.

I forgot to put the fuse in to the battery wire when I tested it, but the pump still primed. wtf?

I'm wondering if I have a bad relay. The relay doesnt seem to have any markings on it at all that I can see, so I cant check to see if it's wired properly.

If I test with a multimeter, what would I be looking for in a properly functioning system. I can pretty easily probe the wires coming off the relay. I'm thinking I should ground to the chassis and probe for 12v power. The only hot wire should be the one coming from the battery with the key off, and with key on, the one going to the pump should be hot as well. The other 2 should just basically be a switched ground.

Am I thinking about this correctly? It's late and my brain is fried trying to figure this out...

All I can think of is maybe DW had the wrong wires soldered to the relay, or I ended up with a bad relay.

I dont think it matters, but this is an 05 STI fuel tank using my 02 wrx harness which plugged right in.

EDIT: So I went out with a multimeter it looks like my wiring is backwards from above? I have 12v on black red and ground on black/yellow. What the crap?

Got it figured out. Black/red from chassis as relay trigger, black/red from pump across from 12v from battery, ground to chassis. Works as it should.

Last edited by simon021; 05-12-2013 at 02:53 AM.
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Old 05-12-2013, 07:36 AM   #147
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Simply put you wired it up incorrectly if there is no fuse in the source wire and the pump still fires up.
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:43 AM   #148
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Lmfao that's pretty apparent. I got it figured out last night. For some reason my green/red is positive and green/yellow was negative. Swapped them around and it works as excited expected
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:26 AM   #149
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Good to see you got it all fixed. Congrats!
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Old 05-16-2013, 05:58 AM   #150
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Question, my relay is a 12V 40A relay. If the car is running 13.5V when the alternator is running is that safe for the relay? When I touch my relay it is very hot.
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