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Old 07-01-2002, 12:38 AM   #1
BeavisNuke
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Thumbs up Got my knocklink to light up red

Welp, on a WOT run in 2nd gear, I got the knocklink to light up red. This, according to the knocklink instructions, means detonation is actually occuring. It's not yet enough for you to hear yet, though. When you actually hear the "ka tink ka tink" it's much, much worse than a red light on the link.

It's interesting though, the EGTs were fine. 1400 degrees, not a bit over. It seems I only ever even get the green lights on the knock link to light up past 5000 rpm. They won't do anything lower than that.

This is on max sensitivity too. The bosch sensor is bolted right above the factory knock sensor.

I may have been overboosting just a little bit. No more than .5 psi. This was at night too, must be much easier to detonate in the hot summer daytime
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Old 07-01-2002, 02:16 AM   #2
tokigiracing
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Mine is set on max sensitivity too....Everytime I shift with my BOV, intake, uppipe, downpipe, exhaust it sets the redlight off...Probably just needs to be tuned down a little bit.

Did yours light up at shift point?
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Old 07-01-2002, 02:34 AM   #3
PaulRex
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When it lights up red at WOT does it stay lighted or does it go off because of the ECU pulling the timing or doing other corrections to stop the knock?(I don't have a Knock Link just wondering for my own knoweledge)
Paul
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Old 07-01-2002, 02:39 AM   #4
PunksWRX
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I have occassionally hit the "Red" too. I'm running a Stage 2 TurboXS Unichip. It usually happens in second gear just as you described. I thought that maybe it was an occassional tank of crappy fuel or that maybe the ECU was allowing a little more timing advance. My Knock Link is set on max sensitvity (better to be safe) and when the red light comes on I can definitely hear a ping (ouch). I think the ambient air temp and humidity have a lot to do with it though.

Paul - it usually is a quick flash of all the lights on the Knock Link including the red. It would only stay on if there was constant severe detonation and then the lights would flash rapidly on and off. I'm pretty sure with the Knock Link set to full sensitivity that some of the flashes can be attributed to other engine vibrations/harmonics and not only detonation.

Punk
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Old 07-01-2002, 09:10 AM   #5
BeavisNuke
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I'm leaving mine on max sensitivity, because per the Knocklink calibration instructions, one or two green lights should briefly flash when the engine output is at 75%. This happened on max sensitivity (but doesn't happen every run at WOT by any means) so I'm leaving it there for now.

I did quite a lot of WOT runs yesterday to test out the new EGT and knock link, and last night was the only time it lit up red.

It's funny actually, the bosch sensor must be very good, because in one run down my street it lit two yellow lights, and then the very next run, it lit the red. Something must have happened there with the engine, because I was only seeing greens all day and all of the night before.

Makes me damn glad I forked over the money for it though...

Where did you guys mount your sensors? I put mine in the hole right above the stock knock sensor, where riftswrx did on his website...
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Old 07-01-2002, 09:46 AM   #6
phxscooby101
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I've had my knocklink for 8 months now. the bosch sensor is located in the same spot as riftswrx.

When i had the stg 2 unichip i use to always get it too light up
too the red led. Try this experiment it always happened when
driving on the highway for 5 to10 miles at a consant speed,
then get off highway, go to a light and stop then punch it.
i bet that you'll get knock by 2nd gear. this happened alot
with the unichip, but since i've gotten rid of it it hardly ever
lights up to the red. only under heavy heatsoak then going
full boost. just my 02cts later
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Old 07-01-2002, 11:24 AM   #7
Tex-WReX
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Exact same thing as phxscooby101.
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Old 07-01-2002, 11:24 AM   #8
BeavisNuke
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Has anyone told turboxs this? I wonder what they'd say...
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Old 07-01-2002, 12:22 PM   #9
davidm_sh
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Here is some of my observations with it over the 8 months or so I have had it installed. Take this as you will. When I had the VF22 @ 15psi with 3" exhaust, intake, EBC, and pullies it would ALWAYS light the bottom two "normal" leds and occasionally dip up into 1 RARELY both "caution" LEDS.

Then I got the bigger injectors put on, bigger fuel pump, dyno/unichip tuned and the car is now more sensitive to conditions I will say. What I mean by that is occasionally the red will go off but just for a BRIEF moment and then the ECU adjusts. I have yet to hear audiable ping that corresponds too it... but I will also admit I have not had a lot of experience in listening for it either.

Something interseting that I did notice was yesterday during the (100F) day I was getting a bit of activity on the knocklink (no reds) but activity in the normal/some caution areas. This was with about 500 miles since my last ECU reset. So out of curiousity I reset the ECU and the car seemed a bit slower BUT the knocklink activity almost completey disappeared. What this tells me is this. The cobb tuned unichip is not that aggressive and what happens is over time the ECU is learning and adds timing all over the place. After about 100 miles or so it's back up to speed and medium knocklink activity levels. Then when you throw on top of that things like going out at night (50-60F) cool driving and beat on it the car adds some timing becuase it can. Then the next day you go, for the first time, at noon (90-100F) and beat on it you get some knocklink activity becuase the ECU has that extra "learned" timing from the previous night and you might hit one red at the worst and then the ECU is learning again.

But the point of this is I thought maybe the unichip tune was a bit aggressive but after I reset the ECU (and getting rid of the timing learned advance) the knocklink acitivity dropped dramaticially and slowly comes back as the ECU learns and adds timing back in. So I don't think it's anything to worry about too much, unless the red STAYS lit throughout the rpm range and you can hear audiable detonation.

And yes I often times get a red or near red activity at shift points like others have reported.
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Old 07-01-2002, 12:23 PM   #10
phxscooby101
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Well according to them you'll have too send the unichip back
with timing and boost recording from a lap top. which i did but
then decided to get rid of it cause i would have to send it back
several times inorder too get the timing setup right.

thanks but no thanks. on my setup with stg 2 i was only getting
5 degrees advance threw the whole midrange under
stock ecu and mbc i was getting the normal 20 to 23 in the
midrange which is way better.

I like turboxs but too much of a hassle to tune a car that way.
later
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Old 07-01-2002, 12:46 PM   #11
TypeC
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Quote:
Originally posted by phxscooby101
thanks but no thanks. on my setup with stg 2 i was only getting 5 degrees advance threw the whole midrange under
stock ecu and mbc i was getting the normal 20 to 23 in the
midrange which is way better.
I hope you know that the unichip changes the readings that the ECU sees. I don't know if you were seeing the true readings or the false ones sent to the ECU.

I have yet to have a single problem with any of the 3 maps I've used from them. In fact, I usually get it send out a few minutes after they get it so I can be back in business. TXS rocks.
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Old 07-01-2002, 01:25 PM   #12
BeavisNuke
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Quote:
Originally posted by TypeC
TXS Rocks.
I second that.

davidm_sh, thanks for the detailed post. From my very limited experience with the knocklink so far, I think I am tending to agree with you. When I went red, it happened nearly at red line, and blinked off as soon as I let off the gas. It was just a split second flash, really. I didn't hear any detonation either.
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Old 07-01-2002, 02:51 PM   #13
phxscooby101
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TypeC, it's been awhile since i talked to them about this,but from
what i remember what mark said they use the copy of the run
that you record on the laptop then they add timing wherever in
the range.

I think the timing is real but i know the boost is a fake signal.

Also he said theres a difference in my 91 octane program and there 93 octane program.

Also at the time they didn't have a program for all my mods,
so that affected the outcome, so for me i have been running
faster with the mbc than i ever ran with the unichip and same
mods. later
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