2011 Subaru WRX, will only run if I have my foot on the gas pedal

[Simply_Richard]

So here is the tea... About 5 months ago cars AFRs being really weird, and car is running terribly, pulled the timing cover car had jumped timing go figure.

So pull the motor and do a head rebuild due to the car jumping timing and an assumed bent valve, also had to get 2 cylinders honed due to what seemed like rust so 2 cylinders also got new piston rings. Finish rebuild and throw motor back into the car. No codes.

Car will start only if I have my foot on the gas pedal, as soon as I take my foot off car stalls. A/F are rich at 10.3, due to the lag in my gauge unable to tell if A/F leans out when the car dies. Fuel pressure is 47psi but when I turn off the car it drops to zero pretty quick, spark is good, my boost gauge is reading weird like I have a leak, so I did a smoke test and verified all lines and they where good. My baro is reading 14.65, which is also normal. Drained the fuel tank and put fresh gas in. Thought it was bad gas because we ran the car off of brake cleaner, and was able to get out of the car while it was running and it didn't stall. Checked all fuses and they are good. Also fuel pump defiantly primes. Checked the IAT and it was seeing ambient temperature. Found one exhaust leak coming from the down pipe to turbo fixed that. Car smells like fuel assuming its due to it running rich. Cylinder Roughness is effecting all cylinders, verified coil packs, and spark plugs hooked up correctly. Coil packs, plugs, injectors, and everything in the head are all brand new. Break in map/ speed density tuned by drunkmann tuning, tuner says everything looks normal besides vacuum. Going to do a compression test today.

MODS:
IAG stage 2.5 closed deck
Built Heads with all the GSC goodies including S2 cams
IAG AOS
AEM meth injection kit w/ small nozzle
IAG Fuel Rails and lines
Cobb Flex Fuel sensor
ID 1700 Injectors
Radium twin fuel pump hanger
Walbro Fuel Pump
IWire Hard wire Kit
IWire Speed density Adapter
Omni 4 Bar Map Sensor
AEM IAT Sensor
ETS FMIC/ W Rotated setup
ETS V2 Max Flow Headers
Namless Catback
Percision 62/66
Tial 46 mm EWG
Turbo Smart BOV
IAG TGV Deletes
2015 STI 6 Speed Swap

[Simply_Richard]

115 driver front
124 driver back
115 front passenger
115 back passenger

those where the compression numbers, after digging more on my acessport, i stumbled onto the fact that my Left AVCS was full on advanced, i know timing is %100, my tuner said to replace the AVCS solenoid and if its not that then its the cam gear itself lmao.

Ill post the solution when i swap solenoids.

[JSR84]

You're trying to run 1700's on pump gas?

[benflynn]

Shows flex sensor

[JSR84]

Originally Posted by benflynn

Shows flex sensor

He said "Filled up with fresh Gas" just want to confirm.

[Simply_Richard]

Yeah 1700s with pump we are building a flex map, tuner said it will work. Also the car started and it idles great, but now the new problem is the car will idle but when ever I press the gas the car stalls. Vacuum is siting really low at about -4psi but smoke tested the car same result. The car will not start when its warm, and now I am getting a P0000, P0300, P0301, P0302, P0304. So I verified timing again and all good.

[Simply_Richard]

Also confirmed the AVCS OCV was stuck open that's why the car wouldn't start at first.

[Simply_Richard]

also the car wont misfire when I am increasing the rpms, I suspect the misfire code comes in when the car is about to die and tries to stay running.

[Sunrise City Rider]

I’m just taking a guess but I feel that your big injectors and cam profile are making it very difficult to idle. Perhaps your tuner can raise the idle rpm to see if you can get it to stay running.

[Simply_Richard]

Originally Posted by Sunrise City Rider

I’m just taking a guess but I feel that your big injectors and cam profile are making it very difficult to idle. Perhaps your tuner can raise the idle rpm to see if you can get it to stay running.

I fixed the idle problem now i just have a hot start problem and a problem where I press on the gas and the car dies. The AVCS OCV replacement fixed the idle and original starting problem.

[Simply_Richard]

so new development, throttle position is 11% at idle with a 1.5% IDC. When i press the gas throttle position drops to 6% that's why the car Riches out and dies. Now time to figure out why throttle position is resting at 11%. Going to try and swap throttle bodies today will post results.

[BlackFighter]

Not sure how different the TB is between the 2005 WRX and the 2011 WRX, but this might help.

https://my.prostreetonline.com/2014/...throttle-body/

Might have to just change out the TPS or the IAC gasket might be leaking.

[Simply_Richard]

Originally Posted by BlackFighter

Not sure how different the TB is between the 2005 WRX and the 2011 WRX, but this might help.

https://my.prostreetonline.com/2014/...throttle-body/

Might have to just change out the TPS or the IAC gasket might be leaking.

So there is not TPS or IAC the 2011 wrx is DBW all controlled through the throttle bod, I tried switching throttle bodies yesterday really starting to lean to the tune. Had another tuner come and look at my car, its running rich and he thinks that my tuner missed something. Also ignition timing was a little off at idle, he said has use to seeing it at around +5 at idle and mine was zero.

[BlackFighter]

Ya just looked at a newer TB. Looks like they put all of that together in the Electronic Throttle Chamber. They go for $450. Might be cheaper to buy a used newer TB for less then $100 and just swap out the Electronic Throttle Chamber.

https://www.subarupartsforyou.com/oe...g0LWdhcw%3D%3D

https://www.ebay.com/itm/18505325477...EaAmIPEALw_wcB

[Simply_Richard]

Originally Posted by BlackFighter

Ya just looked at a newer TB. Looks like they put all of that together in the Electronic Throttle Chamber. They go for $450. Might be cheaper to buy a used newer TB for less then $100 and just swap out the Electronic Throttle Chamber.

https://www.subarupartsforyou.com/oe...g0LWdhcw%3D%3D

https://www.ebay.com/itm/18505325477...EaAmIPEALw_wcB

Yeah i already got a new throttle body from a friend that switched to an sti manifold and its doing the same thing so its not the throttle body.

[Simply_Richard]

Alright time for another update, car threw a p0107 code expected due to being so rich. Had another tuner check out the car and same thing said the current map should be fine.

Did the leak down test:

Cyl 1 %4
Cyl 2 %38 Coming out of oil cap so probably rings
Cyl 3 %5
Cyl 4 %9

i know that eventually cyl 2 will become an issue but it shouldnt keep the car from running and driving.

[Simply_Richard]

Update changed AVCS cam gears and no change car will still start up when cold, wont start when hot, and dies when i press the gas. I'm honestly at a loss now.

[2.5LBoxer2]

I have the exact same issue after dealing with a jumped tooth and changed my timing belt and cam gear seals. Keep me updated as I will for you, thinking of removing my cam gears again and redoing the whole job.

[2.5LBoxer2]

Left side is at 89 degrees advancing while the right is at 4 degrees.

[Simply_Richard]

Originally Posted by 2.5LBoxer2

Left side is at 89 degrees advancing while the right is at 4 degrees.

So out of a long shot i replaced the MAP sensor still no change, I am going do cam position sensors this week, tuner said its looks like that or an injector problem but my injectors are brand new.

[Simply_Richard]

delete
sorry about multiple posts, i am not good at this forum thing

[Simply_Richard]

delete

[jphil101]

Or what about the MAF sensor

[Simply_Richard]

delete

[Simply_Richard]

Originally Posted by jphil101

Or what about the MAF sensor

Car is speed density so no MAF sensor.