The NASIOC Oil Selection Guide

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by Tyjamo87

Newb Q

Today's Rotella T6 is STILL the correct specification for an '07 WRX??

Still ONE of the forums favorites? Or, at least a known adequate option?

Thanks all!

RT6 5W-40 no longer carries the API gasoline spec, however there are people that still use it. Rotella T6 5W-30 is a high HTHS 5W-30 that does carry both diesel and gasoline specs.

However, there are several xW-40’s that meet the most stringent oil specs in the world (Porsche, MB, VW) and can be bought for $25-$35 for 5 qts from Amazon or Wal-Mart.

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[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by jakesubie

Wow, this is a ton of great information.

I've been using Mobil 1. If I'm understanding, since the Mobil 1 Extended Performance has a slightly lower HT/HS than regular Mobil 1, it's technically worse? I'd never go 10k miles let alone 15k without changing the oil...

With the move to SP/GF6 Mobil 1 has dropped the HTHS from most of their data sheets, so the exact HTHS is unknown.

The EP line does have higher levels of PAO base stocks, but you need to look at specs to get an idea of HTHS. GF6 = <3.5 and ACEA A3 or C3 = 3.5+.

[Savage388]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

RT6 5W-40 no longer carries the API gasoline spec, however there are people that still use it. Rotella T6 5W-30 is a high HTHS 5W-30 that does carry both diesel and gasoline specs.



However, there are several xW-40’s that meet the most stringent oil specs in the world (Porsche, MB, VW) and can be bought for $25-$35 for 5 qts from Amazon or Wal-Mart.

I can't say enough good things about mobile 1 0w-40 euro I think your eluding to after 2 years running it summer and winter. It's still good stuff even after they changed it and added the fs label. Less than a quart per 3k change and it meets the Porsche a40 spec still.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by Savage388

I can't say enough good things about mobile 1 0w-40 euro I think your eluding to after 2 years running it summer and winter. It's still good stuff even after they changed it and added the fs label. Less than a quart per 3k change and it meets the Porsche a40 spec still.

Yeah, that’s one and Castrol Edge 0W-40 is another.

[Savage388]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

Yeah, that’s one and Castrol Edge 0W-40 is another.

Does castrol publish hths on their oils? I don't remember reading anything on the 0w-40 in my original oil search just the german castrol 0w-30. I'd be curious to see what grade synthetic it is as well.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by Savage388

Does castrol publish hths on their oils? I don't remember reading anything on the 0w-40 in my original oil search just the german castrol 0w-30. I'd be curious to see what grade synthetic it is as well.

Yes on the 0W-30 (3.5), no on the 0W-40 .

[Savage388]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

Yes on the 0W-30 (3.5), no on the 0W-40 .

Thanks for the link. Interesting what they left out, I see it's still Porsche a40 approved so I can't imagine the hths is something they wouldn't want to show. I'm not a chemical engineer by any means but the density and viscosity at 100c of the 0w-40 look very similar to the german castrol.

[pazzoduc]

Any reason to not use CK-4 oils for our older EJ engines? The necessary additives in FA-4 oils to get a little more fuel mileage isn't likely going to be a benefit, no?


Living in a high temperate location seems like the higher viscosity CK-4 oils would be a better choice for me than the FA-4 oils particularly when used in a high output modified engine?


EJ25 +/-450 HP, oil cooler, AOS, TMIC, Mishi XL radiator, E85 flex. Summer temps regularly 100f, Winter temps rarely below 40 cold start.
Have not had bearing clearance conversation with machine shop yet, so have not put that variable into the discussion yet.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by pazzoduc

Any reason to not use CK-4 oils for our older EJ engines? The necessary additives in FA-4 oils to get a little more fuel mileage isn't likely going to be a benefit, no?


Living in a high temperate location seems like the higher viscosity CK-4 oils would be a better choice for me than the FA-4 oils particularly when used in a high output modified engine?


EJ25 +/-450 HP, oil cooler, AOS, TMIC, Mishi XL radiator, E85 flex. Summer temps regularly 100f, Winter temps rarely below 40 cold start.
Have not had bearing clearance conversation with machine shop yet, so have not put that variable into the discussion yet.

CK-4 oils are fine to run in an EJ.

[Atulier]

even after reading all this, I still dont understand why my car is consuming so much oil. I once had to change it at 970 miles on the oil, and just yesterday i changed it at 1150 miles on the oil. Why did i change it so soon? When i check my dip stick its dry and black. I checked the intake to see if there was oil going in there but there isnt. I use "Motul 8100 X-cess gen2 5W-40. What can be going on in there thats sucking so much oil?

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by Atulier

even after reading all this, I still dont understand why my car is consuming so much oil. I once had to change it at 970 miles on the oil, and just yesterday i changed it at 1150 miles on the oil. Why did i change it so soon? When i check my dip stick its dry and black. I checked the intake to see if there was oil going in there but there isnt. I use "Motul 8100 X-cess gen2 5W-40. What can be going on in there thats sucking so much oil?

That doesn't necessarily sound like an oil problem but possibly an engine problem. What car is this? How many miles? Why are you changing your oil so much? If your dipstick is dry it only means that you're down one quart (or possibly more). There's no need to change your oil if it's just being consumed. Just add more oil. Has the PCV been changed? A compression and leakdown test is a good way to identify serious problems.

Oil being black isn't necessarily a problem. It could just mean that the oil is doing its job and holding contaminants in suspension.

[Atulier]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

That doesn't necessarily sound like an oil problem but possibly an engine problem. What car is this? How many miles? Why are you changing your oil so much? If your dipstick is dry it only means that you're down one quart (or possibly more). There's no need to change your oil if it's just being consumed. Just add more oil. Has the PCV been changed? A compression and leakdown test is a good way to identify serious problems.

Oil being black isn't necessarily a problem. It could just mean that the oil is doing its job and holding contaminants in suspension.

so its a '18 sti, about 46k miles on it. PCV has not been changed. i had a compression test about in sept 2020 everything seemed fine..I change oil because when i pull dipstick its dry.

[Jedi03]

These cars have rings that stick...I combat it with combination of seafoam through brakebooster hose an atf in the fuel...I have had great luck with motorcraft an have just hopped on board the amsoil train, had great results from customer cars so going to try it myself! First sti did mobile 1 an was sucking a quart between changes on brand new engine...current sti consumes no oil an doin 5k oci did 2 uoa an had great comments from blackstone, 170k miles currently an no rebuild! https://www.amsoil.com/offers/pc/?zo=30227871

[RjDeeble]

I ran ran amsoil in my 2005 rs for the first 80,000 miles. I switched to Mobile synthetic 5w30 and it seemed like it wasn’t even close to amsoil. Anyone else notice anything like this?

[GK1707]

Originally Posted by RjDeeble

I ran ran amsoil in my 2005 rs for the first 80,000 miles. I switched to Mobile synthetic 5w30 and it seemed like it wasn’t even close to amsoil. Anyone else notice anything like this?

Close how? Oil pressure?