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Old 03-02-2011, 10:55 AM   #101
billzebub
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Midnight Pearl (black)

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Just wanted to thank everyone for this thread. I've been driving around with sloppy wipers for a year and this straightened it out.

We need a sticky for all these random maintenance ~100K miles issues IMHO. I had this happen, busted a radiator, and lost cruise control all in the last year and have been scouring NASIOC for answers to my problems.
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Old 03-10-2011, 12:15 PM   #102
makeitlookeasy
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Just did this on my 03 wrx. Used 49447 from autozone, $3.xx . Just cut a just little off the 4 tabs and wedged it in from the bottom. My old ones are completed sheared off. Took me less than 2 hours.
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Old 03-17-2011, 02:52 PM   #103
nihilismdesire
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Ok, I tried all this with new arms and new linkage. However, now that the slop is gone...there is negative slop!! The wipers now only go half way up the windshield!!!! Could this be a motor issue? Could the linkage be too tight now? This is SOO frustrating! My warranty covers the motor so Im thinking that might be the last option unless anyone has any other ideas. Thank You
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Old 03-18-2011, 12:06 AM   #104
Cody
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nihilismdesire View Post
Ok, I tried all this with new arms and new linkage. However, now that the slop is gone...there is negative slop!! The wipers now only go half way up the windshield!!!! Could this be a motor issue? Could the linkage be too tight now? This is SOO frustrating! My warranty covers the motor so Im thinking that might be the last option unless anyone has any other ideas. Thank You
See the bold part below.

Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cody View Post
I went the OEM linkage ($80) route since I really need my wipers to work in the winter. Pretty straight forward, though I had to take it all apart a second time because the motor shaft turned a little while removing the nut that holds the linkage to it so I had that problem where the wipers were going down a little before going up and then they didn't go up high enough.

The second time, I was careful not to let the motor shaft turn at all before marking the threaded end with a sharpie. That way, when the shaft inevitably spun while removing the nut at the end of it, I could turn it back to where it started, line everything up, and retighten. There are 3 dashes on the sheet metal part of the linkage assembly that the arrow on the linkage arm that attaches to the motor shaft is supposed to point at (the middle dash).


Other than loosing that stupid wiper linkage nut that my strut tower bar was in the way of and having to drive to the store to buy a new one, piece of cake.

Oh, one last issue. I got the driver side wiper arm installed perfect, but the passenger side was either too low or too high. The notched spindle the arm attaches too wouldn't allow it to go in between two settings where it would have been just right, so after like 6 tries, I decided the lower setting was the better of two evils. The wiper comes into contact with the cowl at the bottom of the windshield now, when the wipers are on the high setting, but I don't think it will be too big of an issue, hopefully. The higher setting had the PS wiper up way too high. It looked stupid and was actually in my line of sight. Oh well, I'm happy.

The bushing that was worn out on mine was, not surprisingly, the one closest to the motor. By looking at the system, it's definitely the one that would take the most abuse...
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Old 03-23-2011, 03:42 PM   #105
gwo34
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Default bushing question

i am having problems with 03 WRX wiper blades, i have bought the 49447 kit but what i really need is the black rubber bushings that go on the bottom below the caps that come in the 49447 kit. i was wondering if anybody has bought or have replace these rubber bushing? i would appreciate the help.
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Old 04-12-2011, 10:18 PM   #106
gustagen
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Default driver's side wiper only travels 2/3 of the way up

Just picked up an 02 WRX wagon. The driver's side wiper only travels about 2/3 of the way up, stalls, then travels back down. Passenger's side wiper travels fine. Removed both wiper arms, cycled the motor, replaced both arms. Same result.

I also noticed I can move the wipers by hand without resistance. I'd say the wipers can move about 4" at the far end.

I removed the motor and linkage and found slop in all the joints. Think I need new bushings?

EDIT: I just rechecked the linkage. There is only slop in two places--both ends of the arm that attaches to the motor. The other joints are tight.

EDIT 2: Just replaced both bushings with parts from 49449. I took skibrain's advice from a few posts back and used two sockets and a vice to squeeze them into place. The first one went in smoothly. One of the flanges on the second didn't make it through the hole in the linkage arm, so I cut it off. Seems the remaining ones should hold it on the ball.

EDIT 3: My fix just failed 20 miles from my house/tools during a downpour. Limped home without wipers, tore it apart and found the bushing at the motor had fallen off. The other end fell off as I removed the motor/linkage assembly. Guess I'm gonna pony up for the OEM linkage at $80. Grrrrr.

Last edited by gustagen; 05-19-2011 at 12:38 PM.
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Old 06-01-2011, 02:53 PM   #107
growling_boxer
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I tried 49449 on my 2000 LGT Sedan, since it was the only one in the store, and the only other 2000-04 Legacy in the thread said that worked for them. I only needed to replace the bushing at the end that connects to the motor. It seemed to fit very nicely, and you could feel it pop into place. I used it for a about a week, and then it popped back off. I tried just reaching under there and popping it back on, but it wouldn't stay. So, I went back to my friend's shop, where he put safety wire around the "fingers" of the bushing to make it fit more tightly. It was very tight, and was definitely difficult to pull back apart, so I thought it was all good to go. In less than a week (with lots of rain), it ended up popping off while my wipers were on full on the highway. Note that every other time it popped off, it was when I was starting the wipers. I pulled onto the shoulder of the highway and tried to pop it back into place, but just like before, it would pop back off almost immediately, even though I could feel it was still very tight, and the safety wire was still there.

In the end, I went to the dealership and just bought the linkage which has been working nicely for a couple weeks now. The OEM bushing did not have tactile pop as I put it on, but it was amazingly hard to pull apart once it was on. In fact, I never pulled it hard enough to separate it. I would have certainly preferred the cheaper fix, but after it took me 3 hours to get home from what should have been a 30 minute trip, including standing out in a torrential downpour trying to fix my wipers, the money for the new linkage was well worth it. It is very possible that a different size bushing would fit better, but the downside of another failed attempt was unacceptable when I regularly drive over an hour in a trip, including my work commute.

To anyone who does replace their linkage, and has to put the old motor onto it. be sure to mark how the motor spline and gear(?) are attached to each other. I didn't pay attention, and my wipers were slightly off, but good enough to get down to my friend's shop, where he was able to figure it out through a few iterations.
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Old 06-02-2011, 09:45 PM   #108
Reebis
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installed a set of 49449 last weekend and drove to detroit for work...an hour into the drive I hit the wipers and the bushing came off the motor. going to try the 49447 hoping it holds tighter.
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Old 06-07-2011, 05:21 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpswrx View Post
Success!

49449 : 98 Forester L : Motor-side ball lever to arm

I replaced only the cap that connects to the motor ball lever so I couldn't tell you about the other linkages. I had a lot of slop before, like 6" of play at the wiper. The package comes with 2 pieces. #1 - was crushed by me trying to squeeze it in the arm. #2 - removed ONE of the little flexible arms on the part (to yield enough clearance to squeeze into the arm hole). A couple seconds with a heat gun, channel locks to the sockets to protect the part and it popped right in. I'll post again if it comes off or I have any issues. If not, all is good. Feel free to pm me or post a reply if my explanation didn't make sense.

Many thanks to all the contributors for fixing my wipers!


Well, I've gone through 2 x 49449's. These develop slop or wear out kind of quickly. Works for a bit, then it eventually pops off in a thunderstorm. Looking for something else...
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Old 06-18-2011, 02:37 PM   #110
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Hmmm, I just completed this project, and I'd say things are 90% better. Still feel about an inch of play, rather than the 4 or 5 inches, and not QUITE hitting the A pillar and/or cowl on full speed. I read DreWRX's post #86, and he mentioned reusing a thin white plastic washer. I assumed this piece to be the other half of the old broken bushings, and did not reuse them. Should I be rummaging through the garbage and taking everything apart again?

EDIT: Took everything apart again (took about 10 minutes...getting good at this) and replaced the white plastic washers under the new bushings after retrieving them from the trash can. Bushings seemed to fit just slightly tighter, but effect on wiper range undetectable to my eye. Oh well, we'll see how they hold up. Thanks everyone!

'03 WRX sedan with 49447s from PartSource

Last edited by Boojiboy; 06-18-2011 at 06:18 PM.
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Old 07-01-2011, 10:02 AM   #111
cscmc1
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Hitting the parts store this weekend for the 49447 kit; thanks for the tips, folks!
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Old 07-09-2011, 10:10 AM   #112
jrobhardison
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Just wanted to thank everyone for the great info on this post. It took me several tries and readjustments to the wiper locations, but my wipers are all good and fixed now.

One thing I did that was a little different and might help others:

I used the 49447 part kit and dunked the little guy in some boiling water for about 10 secs and then shoved it up through the hole in the linkage. The boiling softened the plastic up enough that I didn't have to clip anything off or squeeze it too much to make it fit. Worked like a charm for me.

Good luck to others trying this fix!
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Old 08-16-2011, 10:23 PM   #113
seanarmstrong
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Default Potential fix for wiper slop

Like so many others, I was having windshield wiper problems with my 2000 Subaru Impreza 2.5 RS... 5+ inches of play at the end of the blades, and the horrible "wiper slapping the A-pillar".

I read through the solutions on a few different forums, and tried to repair them with the "Dorman HELP!" 49447 and 49448 kits. Neither fix lasted long so, concerned about a potential failure during a heavy rain, I figured I needed something I felt a little more confident with.

After staring at the parts and thinking (for waaay too long) I decided that, since it's impossible to maneuver the linkage arm through the wiper-motor hole (pic #001), the only other option was to have the pivot permanently attached to the linkage arm, rather than to the wiper-motor arm. With the limited space available to reattach the linkage to the wiper-motor, I would need to remove the "ball" at the end of the wiper-motor arm.

So, here's what I did, and how I did it (read the whole thing *before* you even think about trying it):

<DISCLAIMER> This "fix" will require making irreversible alterations to your windshield wiper motor. I'm no expert, I'm just (kinda) motivated***8230; If you try this, I'm not responsible for any damage to you, your vehicle, your dog, the space shuttle, your mom, or anyone/anything else. </DISCLAIMER>

What you'll need:
- Metric socket set.
- Small flat-head screwdriver.
- 3/16 socket.
- Divot tool (normally used for Golfing). For me, the thinner metal ones worked better than their thicker plastic counter-parts.
- A Drill and 3 Drill-bits. One 1/16" to drill a pilot hole. One smaller than the neck of the ball, to drill it out, and one the size of the bolt to widen the opening in the wiper-motor arm (wish I could remember what size bits, sorry you'll just have to measure :)
- Lubricant (All I had handy was White Lithium Grease... I don't know if this is the right lubricant for the metal/nylon/rubber assembly I created. Maybe someone here who's more knowledgeable can give an opinion?).
- Loctite (a few drops is all you should need).
- Large pliers/Lock-pliers
- 1x - Bolt, ~1 ˝ inches long. I used a metric #6, I believe. It was just a hair larger than the original opening the ball on the wiper-motor arm was in (pic #002).
- 1x - Nylon lock nut (pic #002).
- 1x - Standard nut (pic #002).
- 2x - Fender washer. Roughly 1" diameter with an opening for our #6 bolt (pic #002).
- 2x - Rubber washer for a standard garden-hose (pic #002).

This next item is a little trickier***8230; all the rest of the items I bought from my local automotive/hardware stores. These, I had in a box of spare parts and I can't remember what they came from. So, if anyone knows what they are (or widely available alternative) pleeeeeease post***8230;

- 1x - Nylon bushing. 1Cm (~3/8") long, 18mm diameter, with an opening for our #6 bolt (pic #002) (pic #000).

OK, let's get started:

The first thing we need to do is get under the hood and take off the wiper arms. On the 2K RS, each arm is held in place by a single nut concealed by a rubber cover. I used the flat-head screwdriver to *carefully* remove the rubber covers, though if you have longer fingernails (I don't) you could probably use them just as easily.

Remove, and store, the nut. Gently push the wiper arm toward the windshield. This should allow you wiggle the arm off the bolt. Set the arms aside, being careful not to bang them into the back edge of the hood on their way out.


Now, we need to remove the plastic and rubber cowl that covers the wiper assembly and the bottom of the windshield.

It's held in place by about 10 expansion stinger-type plastic clips (pic #003)***8230; This is where your 3/16 socket and Golf divot tool come into play. From the bottom, push the 3/16 onto the plastic clip (on mine, I heard a ***8216;click' when it was seated correctly) (pic #004). Wedge the divot tool between the plastic cowl and the rubber engine compartment seal (pic #005). This tool works wonderfully because it applies even pressure to both sides of the clip, and this placement works best because it's difficult to get the divot tool between the head of the clip and the cowl. Even if you can, the barbs tend to get caught on the rubber as you bring it up. Just trust me on this one.

Using this method (and some patience) I did not damage a single plastic clip, or the cowl.

Remove the cowl by carefully prying it up from the underside. There are 3 plastic rivets holding it in place near the bottom of the windshield. Even with care I managed to damage one of mine, so take your time.

Next remove the wiper motor. Four bolts and a standard automotive electrical connector. Pretty self-explanatory (pic #006).

Now the linkage***8230;

If you feel you can get in there and just remove the arm that attaches the motor to the first wiper arm, go for it. I, however, was unable to get enough leverage to push the one good end back onto the ball-joint during reassembly so I ended up having to remove the entire assembly***8230;

In the 2K RS, each of the wiper arm attachment points are bolted to the body by 3 nuts in a triangle pattern (pic #007), 6 nuts total***8230; Remove them and *VERY CAREFULLY* slide the entire assembly out through the last opening on the driver's side (U.S.) (pic #003)***8230; It takes some back-and-forth maneuvering, but it CAN be done. Removing and reinserting this assembly is where you're most likely to chip the paint on the hood and fender, so cover the fender with a blanket and (again) take your time.

Once the assembly is out remove what's left of the previous gasket (if anything). I've included a pic of what mine originally looked like (pic #008).

Now we need the bolt, one of the nylon lock-nuts, both fender washers, both rubber washers, and the nylon grommet.

As shown (pic #009), my black nylon grommet was much longer than needed. I used a small hacksaw to cut it 60/40, and discarded the 60% end in favor of the 40% (~1cm) length.

Thread one of the fender washers onto the bolt, then the black nylon grommet. Then work the first rubber washer down around the grommet until both sit flush against the fender washer (pic #010).

Next, thread the linkage arm onto the black nylon grommet***8230; If you've sized everything correctly, there should be no more (or less) than 1/2mm play. If it's too loose, you'll end up with sloppy wipers, go get a different grommet. If it's too tight, get out the sandpaper and sand it down or something's going to end up wearing out and breaking in the long run (pic #011).

Stretch the second rubber washer over the end of the black nylon grommet, thread the other fender washer on, put the nylon lock-nut on and tighten it down until it's just loose enough that you can spin the nylon grommet with your fingers. There should be around ˝" of threads exposed on the bolt, when it's all together***8230; (may want to wait on lubrication since we'll need the bolt reasonably clean for the Loctite we'll be applying to it later) (pic #012)

Set the assembly aside, and go get the wiper-motor***8230;.

Last chance. Once you start this next step, there's no going back.

Still sure? ***8230; Then read on, my brave friend***8230;

You're going to drill the ball out of the wiper-motor arm. With a decent drill bit it's really rather easy. Now, you could remove the wiper arm from the motor, but I was too stubborn to do that, so I threw on my safety-goggles, and grabbed a much smaller (1/16") bit to start. Because of the way the arm is positioned to the motor, I knew I was going to have to go in at an angle. Even though it was very mild (<10 degrees) I needed to keep the larger bit from walking, so I started with a shallow pilot-hole (just 2mm, or so). Then I used the larger bit to drill out the majority of the material, but not all of it. I stopped periodically to attempt to remove the ball with a large plier. Rinse and repeat until I was able to pry the ball out with the pliers. I took it slow so I'd do the least possible damage to the arm, and have the best chance of having enough material left to make a proper hole for the bolt (pic #013). If you look very closely (pic #014) you can see the slight unevenness of the material left on the back of the ball.

Now, feed the linkage back in into the body, but don't bolt it in yet.

Move the linkage around until the threads of the bolt are sticking out of the wiper-motor hole. Bring the wiper-motor over and thread the bolt through the hold you made in the arm (pic #015). Put some Loctite on the threads and put the nut into place***8230; When I did this, getting the nut finger-tight created enough pressure against the nut on the other side of the arm that when I went in with the wrench, I didn't have to counter it with a wrench on the other side, the pressure held it in place***8230; Remember, this shouldn't have to be super-cranked down, you just need to keep the bolt immobilized. The Loctite should keep the nut in place and (if you've done your job right) the bolt will have no reason to spin because the nylon washer will spin around it.

Let the Loctite set. Shouldn't take very long, just follow the directions on the package. I used the time to get ahead on cleanup ;)

Once the Loctite is set***8230; Lubricate!

Put the wiper-motor back in (not forgetting to reconnect the power), and the rest of assembly is the reverse of disassembly.

I know this seems like a lot (sorry for all my long-windedness), but it's really not all that time-consuming. It took me about 3 hours (including clean-up).

So far, this setup has been perfect. The wipers move and park perfectly, there's less than 1cm play at the ends of the blades, and at 70+ mph, I can run my wipers dry, and they're rock-solid. IF the nylon and rubber parts hold up, I'm confident this fix will outlast the car. However, only time will tell.

A *HUGE* thank you to everyone on these forums for all your great knowledge, and for taking the time to come back and share it with the world. I know my "fix" isn't perfect but I hope someone can find it helpful.

(p.s. Sorry for all the metric/imperial switch-ups)

***8230;Images:
_http://s854.photobucket.com/albums/ab108/seanmarmstrong/RS%20Wiper%20Mod/

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab108/seanmarmstrong/RS%20Wiper%20Mod/IMG000_DSC01106.jpg http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab108/seanmarmstrong/RS%20Wiper%20Mod/IMG001_DSC01079.jpg http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab108/seanmarmstrong/RS%20Wiper%20Mod/IMG002_DSC01090.jpg http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab108/seanmarmstrong/RS%20Wiper%20Mod/IMG003_DSC01075.jpg http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab108/seanmarmstrong/RS%20Wiper%20Mod/IMG004_DSC01073_1074.jpg http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab108/seanmarmstrong/RS%20Wiper%20Mod/IMG005_DSC01072.jpg http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab108/seanmarmstrong/RS%20Wiper%20Mod/IMG006_DSC01077.jpg http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab108/seanmarmstrong/RS%20Wiper%20Mod/IMG007_DSC01099.jpg http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab108/seanmarmstrong/RS%20Wiper%20Mod/IMG008_DSC01080_1081_1082.jpg http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab108/seanmarmstrong/RS%20Wiper%20Mod/IMG009_DSC01093.jpg http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab108/seanmarmstrong/RS%20Wiper%20Mod/IMG010_DSC01095.jpg http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab108/seanmarmstrong/RS%20Wiper%20Mod/IMG011_DSC01096.jpg http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab108/seanmarmstrong/RS%20Wiper%20Mod/IMG012_DSC01097.jpg http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab108/seanmarmstrong/RS%20Wiper%20Mod/IMG013_DSC01086.jpg http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab108/seanmarmstrong/RS%20Wiper%20Mod/IMG014_DSC01087.jpg http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab108/seanmarmstrong/RS%20Wiper%20Mod/IMG015_DSC01098.jpg

Last edited by seanarmstrong; 08-16-2011 at 10:50 PM.
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Old 12-25-2011, 08:49 PM   #114
Hendrik
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Default Same sort of problems , but with an 1993 Impreza

[quote=seanarmstrong;34880152]Like so many others, I was having windshield wiper problems with my 2000 Subaru Impreza 2.5 RS... 5+ inches of play at the end of the blades, and the horrible “wiper slapping the A-pillar.



It is quite some time ago that you published your solution.
But for me it is now important , especially as the rain saison starts now here in Brazil..

I did make an extra whole on top of the motor mounting , at least I have acces to the nut for connectig the motor to the linking.
The nylon bushing is out of order and not available in this country.

So I think your solution is fine. But there are some doubts :

Why you apply the nylon 1 cm bushing with the whole of 18mm ?
I understand the 18 mm , but why 1 cm ? Why not the pure thickness of the linking rod ?
Which is about 1.5 mm ?
Why not 2 washers of about 22 mm , outside and inside one washer of 19 mm , with the thickness of the linking rod ?

This is not a critic on your solution , just trying to understand your design...

rgds , Hendrik
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Old 01-29-2012, 12:45 PM   #115
billzebub
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Caveat to people in areas that get lots of precipitation: My fix only lasted about 10 months. Use stronger zip ties or a piece of safety wire to secure it or your linkage may break. I just replaced with the Nissan bushing instead of the Jeep one. We'll see how that holds.
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Old 02-13-2012, 09:15 PM   #116
boardoholic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ImprezaVA View Post




-Charles-
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsowrx View Post
I have a 2003 WRX and just started having the wiper slap problem about two weeks ago...
.
.
.
- Then just reassemble everything in reverse order and check operation (on the slowest intermittent setting first, perhaps).
Just wanted to say thanks, esp. to ImprezaVA (the pics were super helpful) & gsowrx (the step-by-step was very thorough).

This thread was a HUGE help in fixing the "play" I noticed in my wipers a couple weeks back. I had just taken my '03 WRX wgn to snowboard for the 1st time this season. I had lifted the wiper arms away from my windshield as usual on snowy days, then lowered them after clearing the fresh snow at the end of the day. Looks like a few of the flanges on each bushing of the connecting rod had broken away at some point.

Since it's been a "fun" afternoon trying to get my wagon ready for another run to the slopes, I can't really remember if I came across it here or not, but softening up the Jeep bushings from the 49447 assortment pack in some hot water made inserting them into the rod openings a piece of cake!
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:30 PM   #117
seanarmstrong
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendrik View Post
So I think your solution is fine. But there are some doubts :

Why you apply the nylon 1 cm bushing with the whole of 18mm ?
I understand the 18 mm , but why 1 cm ? Why not the pure thickness of the linking rod ?
Which is about 1.5 mm ?
Why not 2 washers of about 22 mm , outside and inside one washer of 19 mm , with the thickness of the linking rod ?

This is not a critic on your solution , just trying to understand your design...

rgds , Hendrik
Hi Hendrik,

Sorry I didn't see your question for so long. I hope I'm not too late...

The nylon bushing in ~1cm in total length. Once I stretched the 2 rubber washers over the ends of the bushing, there was only ~3mm of space between them for the arm (see pics 11 & 12). I decided to go with that setup because I was replacing a 'ball and socket' type of joint with a 'hinge' joint. By definition a hinge joint won't allow lateral (twisting) movement. I was afraid that if I didn't give it a little more room, and/or some rubber grommets, it might put pressure on the motor/arm or end up grinding metal-on-metal.

I hope that helps explain why I chose to go with the solution I did.

In case anyone is curious, I've run my wipers *many* times (and again today), and they feel as solid as the day I finished my "fix".

Don't worry about rethinking my design, I appreciate any good feedback. Just promise that if you find a good solution you'll come back and share it for everyone's benefit.

-Sean
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Old 02-21-2012, 10:39 AM   #118
billzebub
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Nissan bushing broke loose on first try. I also tried the Toyota bushing to the same effect. I finally gave up and ordered a new assembly. I think the ball joint is worn out beyond replacement of bushings.
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Old 02-23-2012, 05:19 PM   #119
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Originally Posted by billzebub View Post
Nissan bushing broke loose on first try. I also tried the Toyota bushing to the same effect. I finally gave up and ordered a new assembly. I think the ball joint is worn out beyond replacement of bushings.
Thinking about doing the same. How much did it cost you?
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Old 03-01-2012, 10:53 AM   #120
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The play in my wiper arms got so bad the other day that the blades got caught on the A-pillar. I think I may just forgo this fix and try to find new assemblies.
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Old 03-06-2012, 12:18 PM   #121
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The play in my wiper arms got so bad the other day that the blades got caught on the A-pillar. I think I may just forgo this fix and try to find new assemblies.
Let me know how that goes
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:05 PM   #122
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Thinking about doing the same. How much did it cost you?
$45 shipped on ebay.
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Old 04-12-2012, 07:07 PM   #123
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bought a used wiper linkage (transmission) used from a member here. swapped the motor and installed it. now the the wipers travel the wrong direction. they start at the bottom and stop at the top near the a pillar. is it possible to put the motor on backwards? i didn't think it was.
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Old 04-13-2012, 02:09 AM   #124
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You probably just have to line the marks up correctly.
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Old 04-13-2012, 11:15 AM   #125
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Quote:
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You probably just have to line the marks up correctly.
Thanks. Figured it out. Buying a used linkage is the way to go. All in all a 30min job. Hopefully it holds up for a bit.




Last edited by doubledribble; 04-14-2012 at 05:32 PM.
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