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Old 12-13-2013, 02:35 PM   #151
dcaudio
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Default How to reconnect wiper linkage to motor ball -- Legacy 1999

Hi. I got a wiper linkage from a salvage yard. I got the old one off, but the space is so tight that I can't seem to get the arm to attach to the motor when attached. I can detach the motor and then get the linkage to attach, but when the motor is installed the access is so tight that I can't get it to go on. Any ideas? This is for a Legacy 1999. Thanks!
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Old 12-13-2013, 07:00 PM   #152
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I figured it out. The trick seemed to be waiting a day. It was also easier to have the wiper motor unscrewed. Cheers!!
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Old 03-30-2014, 09:05 PM   #153
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This is a "me too" posting. I had the same wiper-slapping problem and found my wipers to be pretty floppy when checking them while parked. In my case, it was not the bushing nearest the motor but the other one instead. I picked up a Dorman 49449 from Autozone and it worked fine. It was a little hard getting it to go into the hole in the linkage, but I used the heating gun trick to soften it up a bit. I put a 15mm socket on the back of the bushing and used that to evenly press it into place on a bench vise. I had a much larger socket on the other side to give the bushing clearance when I pressed it into the hole. The ball then popped right in with no problem. All is well with the wipers again. Big thanks to this thread!
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Old 04-06-2014, 02:43 PM   #154
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I was having a similar problem on my 2002 wagon. The wipers were going past the A-pillar, would sometimes go too low (onto the bottom of the black part), and sometimes would go only to 2/3 of the way down. Then on Friday, the driver's side wiper stopped working altogether, even the passenger side still works. Any ideas? Help! rain is coming to Philadephia!
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Old 04-09-2014, 04:59 PM   #155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mclmk8d View Post
I was having a similar problem on my 2002 wagon. The wipers were going past the A-pillar, would sometimes go too low (onto the bottom of the black part), and sometimes would go only to 2/3 of the way down. Then on Friday, the driver's side wiper stopped working altogether, even the passenger side still works. Any ideas? Help! rain is coming to Philadephia!
save yourself the trouble and just order a new wiper assembly...swapping out the old one will take less then 30min. i've been ordering most of my parts through concordville subaru. the best prices i've seen.
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Old 06-13-2014, 10:39 PM   #156
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Just used this to fix my 2002 2.5 RS. Had to use the Nissan one though. The Jeep didn't work for me. Thought I would share my findings.
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Old 06-22-2014, 09:47 AM   #157
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ANd then it broke again after seven days GOing to a salvage yard to get the whole assembly.
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Old 04-22-2015, 07:43 PM   #158
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Thanks for this info... my wipers were definitely hitting and going past the A pillar.

I used the Dorman #49447 on my 03 bugeye today and used a little muscle and lithium grease to get these in. However, I think it's stupid that Subaru doesn't sell these little bushings by themselves along with them not being sold in parts stores either.

So far they work great, but like the rest only time will tell.

My old bushings below.

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Old 06-16-2015, 03:13 PM   #159
dceptn
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Does anyone know if the 04 wiper linkage would fit in an 02?
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Old 09-02-2015, 01:41 PM   #160
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Hi all,

Can someone tell me which are the bushings in the image below? This is from Parts.Subaru.com


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Old 09-02-2015, 04:03 PM   #161
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None...they are part of M135002/3
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Old 04-15-2016, 08:05 PM   #162
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Just wanted to add my 3 cents - 49447 from Auto Zone worked for me as well. The guy behind the counter said they were selling a lot of those lately.


Driver's side was flopping in the wind and got stuck a few times. 1 of the 4 tabs from the new bushing broke off. About an hour of removing/installing the parts + 3 tabs + cable tie = good as new!.
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Old 11-03-2016, 12:55 PM   #163
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Going to tackle my 06 STi wiper issue today, they have this same problem.. Ordered part number 49447 assortment kit hopefully it works out
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Old 11-04-2016, 04:36 PM   #164
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2 hours and that part number 49447 used 3 bushings out of it and some zap straps and my wipers on my 2006 STi are minty again. Pretty easy job, the wiper linkage / motor asy comes out of the STi real easy..
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Old 11-18-2016, 10:25 PM   #165
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Hey guys just wanted to throw this out there for what I have been using and it has worked great so far on my 03 bugeye along with the bushing kit that everyone has mentioned. You may want to give these a shot because they are very cheap. I had to work them a little to get them on and you have to be careful not to cut your hands while putting them on because the edges are very sharp.

I found them on flea bay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ONE-WIPER-WO...3D190701796906
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Old 12-22-2016, 06:48 PM   #166
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Just used 49447 on my 03 WRX, only thing I can add to the thread is that I used a press, and jammed it in to the arm, that kept it in very securely. Since I had 3 to play with... the first two didn't work so well - clipping the prongs seemed too loose (and not enough to keep the wire tie on for a long time), and heating it wasn't enough. Perhaps heat (I like the boiling water soak suggested earlier) and then pressing would work best.
Thanks again community for the great ideas!
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Old 12-27-2016, 05:15 PM   #167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koloumb View Post
Just wanted to add my 3 cents - 49447 from Auto Zone worked for me as well. The guy behind the counter said they were selling a lot of those lately.


Driver's side was flopping in the wind and got stuck a few times. 1 of the 4 tabs from the new bushing broke off. About an hour of removing/installing the parts + 3 tabs + cable tie = good as new!.
Dang. After 8 months - my ghetto solution failed last night [during pouring rain]. I think I may try to find a linkage assembly so I don't have to roll the dice every 6-8 months

Last edited by koloumb; 12-27-2016 at 05:22 PM.
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Old 02-16-2017, 12:14 AM   #168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ImprezaVA View Post
Last update
I used the kit from Advance: Motormite 49447, as suggested by Roy (http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...rtnumber=49447). Here's a pic of the bushing I used. All 3 will work, but I broke 2 out of 3 trying to make it fit. I finally got it to fit with the help of a friend holding the linkage arm while I took two channel locks and squeezed it in. Its a tight and safe fit. My wipers work like new again.


Roy, I got this to fit without clipping the ears


-Charles-
Charles' post from 12 years ago continues to help people. I fixed my wipers tonight.

I have a 2002 WRX. The problem was that the wipers go way further than normal on the up stroke, and slam into the base cowling at the end of the down stroke. The problem would go away but then come back about ten cycles later. It came on after a snowstorm. The stress of trying to move the wipers against a snow load apparently caused the bushing on the motor link to fail.

To attack this thing, you have to remove the whole wiper linkage and motor. It lives under a cowl at the base of the windshield. You have to remove both wipers (remove a cap, then remove a nut, then forcefully wiggle them off), remove the plastic cowl (remove the seal and then pull the whole thing off carefully but forcefully, there are 10 clips on the seal and 8 on the cowl itself) and then remove two screws and a tiny little 10 mm nut that's impossible to remove if you have a strut tower bar installed and which is stupid easy to drop down into the engine bay to be lost forever. Then you can unplug the motor and pull the whole damn thing out.

I bought the 49447 bushing pack from Advance Auto. Charles' post identifies the right bushing to use. There are three in that package. Everyone keeps saying "bushing" but it looks more like a "cap." It snaps over a ball-shaped stud to form a compliant spherical joint.

There are three places where this bushing exists and could fail. There is a link (bar with a hole in each end) attached to the motor, and then one attached to each wiper. You can tell which ones have failed pretty easily by yanking on the links to find where it's loosest. In my case, it was just the bushing on the motor link that failed, the other two were still pretty tight. Keep in mind that a little bit of looseness in this linkage translates to ten times that looseness out at the wiper blade tip.

Extract the dead bushing(s) forcefully. You won't break anything that's not already broken.

The trick to inserting the new bushing: (this isn't entirely new to this thread, but I'm trying to summarize what worked for me clearly for the next guy)

- Boil some water and pour it into a mug
- Drop the bushing in the hot water
- Put on some gloves.
- Set the mug right next to the wiper linkage on your workbench. Get a flat head screwdriver ready.
- Extract the bushing from the mug with pliers. Shake off the water. Now, you must work quickly, while it's still hot.
- Force the bushing through the hole in the link, with the open end of the bushing facing the link. (You'll be pressing on the dome of the bushing. This has been referred to as "pressing it in from the back" in this thread, which I found confusing. In hindsight, that's a totally logical way to describe it.) While pressing the bushing toward the hole, use your flat head screwdriver to push each of the four tabs of the bushing inward and through the link hole, one at a time. Maintain pressure on the dome the whole time. Your hands will probably hurt a bit. If you haven't got it after about 20 seconds, put the bushing back in the mug of hot water, wait ten seconds, and try again. This is key. The bushing must be hot and pliable or you will either break it or fail to get it to go in. This took me about five tries, but on the final try it went beautifully and the bushing went in without breaking anything.

Once the bushing is in, bend the four barbs outward so they look like the photo in Charles' post. The purpose of the zip tie is to act as a spacer that forces the barbs to stay bent outward. Before I actually did this repair, I was very confused why you'd want to add a zip tie, but now it's pretty obvious. I added the zip tie.

Put some grease into the socket of the new bushing and then snap it into the ball stud thing.

Align the motor link with the long link that it's attached to so that they are straight and parallel to each other.

Reinstall everything except the cap that covers the wiper nut. Double-check your wiper stroke. You will probably have to loosen the nut, adjust, and re-tighten at least once per wiper. When you're happy with the travel of both wipers, reinstall wiper nut caps. Congratulations, you just saved $100.

Last edited by Colonel Ives; 02-16-2017 at 12:23 AM.
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Old 02-16-2017, 12:51 PM   #169
Charlie-III
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colonel Ives View Post
Charles' post from 12 years ago continues to help people. I fixed my wipers tonight.

I have a 2002 WRX. The problem was that the wipers go way further than normal on the up stroke, and slam into the base cowling at the end of the down stroke. The problem would go away but then come back about ten cycles later. It came on after a snowstorm. The stress of trying to move the wipers against a snow load apparently caused the bushing on the motor link to fail.

To attack this thing, you have to remove the whole wiper linkage and motor. It lives under a cowl at the base of the windshield. You have to remove both wipers (remove a cap, then remove a nut, then forcefully wiggle them off), remove the plastic cowl (remove the seal and then pull the whole thing off carefully but forcefully, there are 10 clips on the seal and 8 on the cowl itself) and then remove two screws and a tiny little 10 mm nut that's impossible to remove if you have a strut tower bar installed and which is stupid easy to drop down into the engine bay to be lost forever. Then you can unplug the motor and pull the whole damn thing out.

I bought the 49447 bushing pack from Advance Auto. Charles' post identifies the right bushing to use. There are three in that package. Everyone keeps saying "bushing" but it looks more like a "cap." It snaps over a ball-shaped stud to form a compliant spherical joint.

There are three places where this bushing exists and could fail. There is a link (bar with a hole in each end) attached to the motor, and then one attached to each wiper. You can tell which ones have failed pretty easily by yanking on the links to find where it's loosest. In my case, it was just the bushing on the motor link that failed, the other two were still pretty tight. Keep in mind that a little bit of looseness in this linkage translates to ten times that looseness out at the wiper blade tip.

Extract the dead bushing(s) forcefully. You won't break anything that's not already broken.

The trick to inserting the new bushing: (this isn't entirely new to this thread, but I'm trying to summarize what worked for me clearly for the next guy)

- Boil some water and pour it into a mug
- Drop the bushing in the hot water
- Put on some gloves.
- Set the mug right next to the wiper linkage on your workbench. Get a flat head screwdriver ready.
- Extract the bushing from the mug with pliers. Shake off the water. Now, you must work quickly, while it's still hot.
- Force the bushing through the hole in the link, with the open end of the bushing facing the link. (You'll be pressing on the dome of the bushing. This has been referred to as "pressing it in from the back" in this thread, which I found confusing. In hindsight, that's a totally logical way to describe it.) While pressing the bushing toward the hole, use your flat head screwdriver to push each of the four tabs of the bushing inward and through the link hole, one at a time. Maintain pressure on the dome the whole time. Your hands will probably hurt a bit. If you haven't got it after about 20 seconds, put the bushing back in the mug of hot water, wait ten seconds, and try again. This is key. The bushing must be hot and pliable or you will either break it or fail to get it to go in. This took me about five tries, but on the final try it went beautifully and the bushing went in without breaking anything.

Once the bushing is in, bend the four barbs outward so they look like the photo in Charles' post. The purpose of the zip tie is to act as a spacer that forces the barbs to stay bent outward. Before I actually did this repair, I was very confused why you'd want to add a zip tie, but now it's pretty obvious. I added the zip tie.

Put some grease into the socket of the new bushing and then snap it into the ball stud thing.

Align the motor link with the long link that it's attached to so that they are straight and parallel to each other.

Reinstall everything except the cap that covers the wiper nut. Double-check your wiper stroke. You will probably have to loosen the nut, adjust, and re-tighten at least once per wiper. When you're happy with the travel of both wipers, reinstall wiper nut caps. Congratulations, you just saved $100.
Nice summation of everything in the thread.
Interestingly, neither my 98 Legacy or our 99 Impreza have has this issue. Maybe because I use RainX so we don't use the wipers as much?
I also see I was posting in this thread over 13 years ago....
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Old 02-20-2017, 09:15 PM   #170
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I have about 2" of free play. I decided to go with new linkage for my 02 WRX. Cost me $99 shipped.

86521FE010
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Old 02-24-2017, 02:22 PM   #171
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Replaced linkage with brand new linkage. No more play but wipers are out of position when off. Any idea how to fix this issue?
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Old 02-24-2017, 03:04 PM   #172
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Originally Posted by txl146 View Post
Replaced linkage with brand new linkage. No more play but wipers are out of position when off. Any idea how to fix this issue?
Remove wiper arms.
Ignition key on, cycle the wipers so they end up parked.
Turn ignition key off.
Align and install the wiper arms.
Done.
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Old 02-24-2017, 04:23 PM   #173
txl146
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I did that already multiple times. If I align and install @ parked position they end up too low, hitting plastic piece. Wonder if I have to adjust 17mm nut on the motor?
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Old 02-24-2017, 06:01 PM   #174
Charlie-III
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Originally Posted by txl146 View Post
I did that already multiple times. If I align and install @ parked position they end up too low, hitting plastic piece. Wonder if I have to adjust 17mm nut on the motor?
The arms usually sit on a tapered (sometimes splined) shaft.
With the whole system cycled so the motor has "parked", you install the arms where you want them and tighten the nut that holds them on.

If you're setting things up and the stopping point is moving, something else is loose/not attached.

The key is letting the system cycle WITHOUT the arms attached, then the motor is parked. The rest is easy.
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Old 02-27-2017, 10:41 AM   #175
Charlie-III
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@txl146, well, what happened? It was nice weather in NJ this weekend, perfect for working outside.


@Charlie-III test....
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