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Old 11-15-2020, 02:36 PM   #26
KillerBMotorsport
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unabomber View Post
I see a need and this is one of the main reasons why I have an OG metal APS on teh wagon. Metal don't squish. And they are cake to install. Drop PS pump down and it slides right in with near zero drama. Sadly, kids these days don't know the APS name as they were the pinnacle back in the day but their business model and distributors killed them.

I don't know silicone pricing, but maybe see if you can add optional FP sizes for a few more customers. Their odd inlet sizing is the only reason I didn't get an FP turbo last time as I didn't want to pay for their special inlet. So if you could look into how much a special run of your outlet size to FP 84mm turbo inlet, it might be worth your time if a run of say 50 isn't too bad. Heck...you might holler at Robert Young about co-branding some so you and he could sell "FP hard inlets".

I vote pricing should be Tree Fiddy, moAr for special coatings. T-bolt clamps for +$10 or whatever they cost these days.
I didn't think we'd go down the 84mm fitment road, but we've had quite a few questions on it. We've done custom silicone pieces before, so I think we can figure something out here

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Originally Posted by AZ-GT View Post
I trust metal as a better solution. I trust your design abilities. If you build it around the indicated price point I see no reason to not be a buyer.
Thanks for your kind words and support, I really appreciate it!
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Old 11-15-2020, 03:27 PM   #27
jcb-memphis
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I am keeping the engine stock due to warranty....if I was not..would be in and already have all your other stuff on the engine.....

One question...the engines move a little unless you do solid mounts. Most don't and do silicon harder mounts/etc. As the engine moves, will a solid tube cause more damage/wear at connection points than a silicon tube would. That could be a big deal.

And then there is heat soak...

Good luck. Sorry to ask tough questions, but better now than later.
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Old 11-15-2020, 07:29 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by jcb-memphis View Post
I am keeping the engine stock due to warranty....if I was not..would be in and already have all your other stuff on the engine.....

One question...the engines move a little unless you do solid mounts. Most don't and do silicon harder mounts/etc. As the engine moves, will a solid tube cause more damage/wear at connection points than a silicon tube would. That could be a big deal.

And then there is heat soak...

Good luck. Sorry to ask tough questions, but better now than later.
I welcome and appreciate any questions.

The turbo inlet (stock or other hard inlets that have been on the market) have a flex coupler on each end. Ours would be no different.

Sorry to answer a question with a question... Has anyone measure heat soak from one end of the inlet to the other? What is heat soak with OEM vs silicone? I've measure temps going through intercooler tuning right behind the radiator and say 0 degree temp increase. The air velocity is exceptionally high with exposure time being exceptionally low. Not that the intercooler tubing can't get warm, but it's not going to transfer an appreciable amount of heat.

Last edited by KillerBMotorsport; 11-15-2020 at 07:34 PM.
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Old 11-15-2020, 07:31 PM   #29
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I'm interested for my VA model STI. I already have the Killer B header in hand, and I'm looking to go to stage 2. I agree with your assessment, going to a stage 2, this inlet makes sense in the build.
My GR model STI is a rotated turbo setup, because I wanted higher power. I previously had a stock location GTX3076R to go beyond stage 2 power levels so I wanted a better flowing inlet, but that didn't work out as I wanted. This turbo inlet option wouldn't have helped in achieving my goals for that build.
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Old 11-15-2020, 09:01 PM   #30
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What about induction noise? Is it significantly increased with metal over silicone or the stock plastic inlet?
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Old 11-15-2020, 10:36 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by sifl View Post
I'm interested for my VA model STI. I already have the Killer B header in hand, and I'm looking to go to stage 2. I agree with your assessment, going to a stage 2, this inlet makes sense in the build.
Thanks for the feedback, using our products and continued support!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bdearnley View Post
What about induction noise? Is it significantly increased with metal over silicone or the stock plastic inlet?
Yes, there is a marginal increase in sound. I'll pay more attention to the higher HP test car for the before/after cool turbo sounds
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Old 11-16-2020, 11:51 AM   #32
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i would be in,id much rather have a three inch metal inlet that fits better than have a 3 inch silicone inlet that is a pain in the butt,just for the convenience alone it would be worth it,three inch silicone inlets even with manifold spacers still suck so i feel like this is a big need especially with considering your spoolinator kits,and the fact that atp sells alot of 3 inch stock location turbos

pleeeassseeee make it or at least sell me one asap hahaha
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Old 11-16-2020, 03:42 PM   #33
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I use an APS inlet, which works great, and I really wish those were still around. I have also tried Agency Power and AMR inlets which were both poor attempts of the same task = junk. A "good" solid inlet in the market sounds great.
I think your target price range is in the right place. Obviously a consumer would prefer $299 over $399. If it is feature rich then price accordingly. I am SUPER picky but willing to pay-up for a better component. I might not be the typical Subaru enthusiast; although as you said this may align with a typical Killer B customer.

- 3" inlet end into this Intake, so standard couplers or reducer couplers fit, no weird off-sizes.
- Watch clearance to the top AVCS banjo near compressor inlet, used on 2006+ WRX/FXT D25 heads.
- Check clearance to top hi-psi Power Steering port. I suspect the side hi-psi PS port will clear anyways.
- Good clearance to common TGV housings (oem, Aluminati, IAG) with and without reasonable thickness thermal spacers. The 7mm+ plus spacers are likely outside of your intended buyer (likely rotated turbo) so ignore those.
- Enough wall thickness on the Vac ports and BPV port that the user could drill and tap for threaded plug when port is not being used. That might be more reversible then cut off and weld over.
- Forget T-bolt clamps they are unnecessary for this area. ABA/Norma clamps in stainless steel used with the beaded ends in your model. I hate paying extra for T-bolt clamps when they are only included because "Tee-Boltz is better Yo".
- Hump Couplers between MAF and this Intake so that there is some flex for filter maintenance and R&R for boost leak checks.
- Clearance for 2.5i manifold runners...but this is likely outside of your intended buyer. Would be a bonus if it clears lower runner, let user figure out the Intake to manifold mounting tab themselves.
- I am on the fence about paying more for coatings since everyone has their preference. If a must then I would rather bare casting and wrinkle black. Wrinkle reds never match other parts that well. If someone wants thermal coatings then they will have their favorite and can get coated themselves.
- If you do offer coatings make sure the inside is masked off and not coated. Ever look inside the mess that is an ETS CAI intake (probably their CAC tubes as well)? I would rather spend my time on other tasks instead of cleanup.

Hump Coupler#A: Intake inlet to 3" MAF connection, included with Inlet.
Hump Coupler#B: Intake inlet to oddball" MAF connection, offer as a separate part when needed. I know some intakes use other sizes.
Offset Coupler#1: Intake end to oem 2.4" compressor inlet, included with Inlet.
Offset Coupler#2: Intake end to 3" compressor inlet, included with Inlet, and hopefully also fits with your spoolinator kit turbos.
Offset Coupler#3: Intake end to FP 84mm (3.3") compressor inlet, offer as a separate part when needed.

I would consider swapping out my APS Intake for one of these since I do appreciate the effort put into your components. I like my Killer B headers, baffle, pickup, pan, etc so far. Especially if there is a path to a FP 84mm coupler, since I may eventually change from my FP 2.4" cover to the 84mm cover.

Last edited by JarHarms; 11-16-2020 at 03:58 PM. Reason: sorry for the wall of text, just brainstorming, I'm sure it will turn out fine
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Old 11-16-2020, 05:18 PM   #34
tabrad
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I would definitely throw out my Perrin inlet and purchase the hard inlet for my 06 STi. I just like the idea of not worrying about tearing the inlet when you are working in the vicinity of it. Also louder induction noise is a plus.
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Old 11-16-2020, 09:14 PM   #35
KillerBMotorsport
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dakota D View Post
pleeeassseeee make it or at least sell me one asap hahaha
Thank you sir!

Quote:
Originally Posted by JarHarms View Post
I use an APS inlet, which works great, and I really wish those were still around. I have also tried Agency Power and AMR inlets which were both poor attempts of the same task = junk. A "good" solid inlet in the market sounds great.
I think your target price range is in the right place. Obviously a consumer would prefer $299 over $399. If it is feature rich then price accordingly. I am SUPER picky but willing to pay-up for a better component. I might not be the typical Subaru enthusiast; although as you said this may align with a typical Killer B customer.

- 3" inlet end into this Intake, so standard couplers or reducer couplers fit, no weird off-sizes.
- Watch clearance to the top AVCS banjo near compressor inlet, used on 2006+ WRX/FXT D25 heads.
- Check clearance to top hi-psi Power Steering port. I suspect the side hi-psi PS port will clear anyways.
- Good clearance to common TGV housings (oem, Aluminati, IAG) with and without reasonable thickness thermal spacers. The 7mm+ plus spacers are likely outside of your intended buyer (likely rotated turbo) so ignore those.
- Enough wall thickness on the Vac ports and BPV port that the user could drill and tap for threaded plug when port is not being used. That might be more reversible then cut off and weld over.
- Forget T-bolt clamps they are unnecessary for this area. ABA/Norma clamps in stainless steel used with the beaded ends in your model. I hate paying extra for T-bolt clamps when they are only included because "Tee-Boltz is better Yo".
- Hump Couplers between MAF and this Intake so that there is some flex for filter maintenance and R&R for boost leak checks.
- Clearance for 2.5i manifold runners...but this is likely outside of your intended buyer. Would be a bonus if it clears lower runner, let user figure out the Intake to manifold mounting tab themselves.
- I am on the fence about paying more for coatings since everyone has their preference. If a must then I would rather bare casting and wrinkle black. Wrinkle reds never match other parts that well. If someone wants thermal coatings then they will have their favorite and can get coated themselves.
- If you do offer coatings make sure the inside is masked off and not coated. Ever look inside the mess that is an ETS CAI intake (probably their CAC tubes as well)? I would rather spend my time on other tasks instead of cleanup.

Hump Coupler#A: Intake inlet to 3" MAF connection, included with Inlet.
Hump Coupler#B: Intake inlet to oddball" MAF connection, offer as a separate part when needed. I know some intakes use other sizes.
Offset Coupler#1: Intake end to oem 2.4" compressor inlet, included with Inlet.
Offset Coupler#2: Intake end to 3" compressor inlet, included with Inlet, and hopefully also fits with your spoolinator kit turbos.
Offset Coupler#3: Intake end to FP 84mm (3.3") compressor inlet, offer as a separate part when needed.

I would consider swapping out my APS Intake for one of these since I do appreciate the effort put into your components. I like my Killer B headers, baffle, pickup, pan, etc so far. Especially if there is a path to a FP 84mm coupler, since I may eventually change from my FP 2.4" cover to the 84mm cover.
Great feedback. Thanks so much for that! I think we'll be checking a lot of these boxes, and we've still got more fitment checks to do on other gens... and I hate t-bolts too

Quote:
Originally Posted by tabrad View Post
I would definitely throw out my Perrin inlet and purchase the hard inlet for my 06 STi. I just like the idea of not worrying about tearing the inlet when you are working in the vicinity of it. Also louder induction noise is a plus.
Thanks for much for the consideration!
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Old 11-20-2020, 01:10 AM   #36
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100% in. I'll be buying this and the G-series Spoolinator when they're released.
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Old 11-21-2020, 07:28 PM   #37
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I'd be interested in one for sure. The Perrin inlet was a pita to install. Make it easy to install and I'll buy two of them for both my cars.
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Old 11-21-2020, 09:53 PM   #38
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Totally on board for this. Money in hand and waiting for this to join all my other killer b goodies!
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Old 11-22-2020, 04:01 PM   #39
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At $299 I would be willing to pay extra for a well designed hard inlet. If it goes more than that Iíd probably fab my own. But if you can keep it at $299 Iím in. Also about a month out form upgrading to one, happy to be a beta tester if you finish some ore production versions around then.
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Old 11-23-2020, 02:44 PM   #40
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Yeah, my interest has peaked as of late. I'm down for one as well when these come out. Engine needs a refresh anyway - might as well sell my silicone one to offset some of the cost for this.
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Old 11-23-2020, 02:45 PM   #41
K3rm1tth3fr0g
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I'd snag one if it is @ $300
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Old 11-25-2020, 01:03 AM   #42
Bluestreak03
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My AP hard inlet fit and worked just fine for me now not having TGVs is definitely nice and makes it easier, but would like to see comparison to that if anything
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Old 11-25-2020, 07:07 AM   #43
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I would absolutely have paid $300 for a KB hard inlet on the last round of mods. Now that the Perrin is in there, it would take some combination of demonstrated improvements (in the ~350whp range) or another install opportunity for me to make the switch. I donít need heat reflective coatings - just a durable finish that looks good. Black or clear anodized would be great options assuming these are very low porosity castings.

I have an STI swapped 06 Legacy, so clearance for my power steering pump would be nice, as others have mentioned. The Perrin inlet is pressed pretty hard against it and I worry it will wear thru at some point.
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Old 11-25-2020, 10:14 AM   #44
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You guys are missing the point. The KB hard inlet is different from all the other hard inlets because it is designed for easy install and no need to remove the intake mani. Hans the higher cost. Im sure the power gain will be same or slightly more, but nothing crazy. Deff worth the extra $50-$100 to not remove the intake mani. But at the same time when you do remove the intake mani you can do more maintenance and upgrades.

KB, if I'm wrong then please correct me.
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Old 11-25-2020, 11:20 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackFighter View Post
You guys are missing the point. The KB hard inlet is different from all the other hard inlets because it is designed for easy install and no need to remove the intake mani. Hans the higher cost. Im sure the power gain will be same or slightly more, but nothing crazy. Deff worth the extra $50-$100 to not remove the intake mani. But at the same time when you do remove the intake mani you can do more maintenance and upgrades.

KB, if I'm wrong then please correct me.
No, you are correct I did read the original post. But to me you would compare to something of alike. I got my AP hard inlet used for I believe a hundred bucks, new go for i believe 275. It is awesome and an advantage to get something where you don't have to disassemble the mani but with a lil elbow grease and effort I'm in way less money
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Old 11-25-2020, 12:17 PM   #46
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Will this have accommodations for the plastic mani boys? The inlets aren't very different, but they are different. I'd like to not have to sort out vacuum hose adapters. Spoon feed me, plz.

This wouldn't be next on my list, but would be on the list. Will watch for more info. Thanks!
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Old 11-26-2020, 03:50 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by Stretch18 View Post
Will this have accommodations for the plastic mani boys? The inlets aren't very different, but they are different. I'd like to not have to sort out vacuum hose adapters. Spoon feed me, plz.

This wouldn't be next on my list, but would be on the list. Will watch for more info. Thanks!
This, all the options for the gr wrx aren't great, I'll buy one just for peace of mind if I can if they're done when I'm swapping turbos in the spring.
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Old 11-29-2020, 01:48 AM   #48
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Iíd probably get one for my GD. I have an AMR hard pipe not installed yet but Iím really not looking forward to installing. Iíd pay alittle more for the KB one to know itíll fit without fighting, bleeding and crying!
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Old 11-29-2020, 02:28 AM   #49
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I think $299 is a fair price for a hard turbo inlet. How is the fitment with a JDM long runner manifold?
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Old 11-29-2020, 04:20 PM   #50
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I'm in for 2, oe 2.4 and oversized 84mm fp inlet! Say the word and u'll have funds!
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