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10-02-2013, 04:37 PM | #326 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 353194
Join Date: Apr 2013
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: Broomfield, CO
Vehicle:2013 WRX Limited ISM |
Thanks for the advice! I'd upload a pic so you could see it, but couldn't figure out how. Hopefully i'll have some "after" pics that look much better! How's beaufort?! Had a buddy in high school who had a house down there...fun place!
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10-03-2013, 06:03 AM | #327 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 291770
Join Date: Aug 2011
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Beaufort, South Carolina
Vehicle:2004 Impreza WRX STI Java & satin black |
I really like Beaufort though I'm currently in Afghanistan. I can't wait to go back.
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12-24-2013, 03:05 AM | #328 | |
*** Banned ***
Member#: 376876
Join Date: Dec 2013
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Re: Auto Body/Paint Question and Answers
Quote:
Thanks a lot for your Guidance .They are really helpful in my work.I am owner of Marlow auto body shop.We offer a wide range of a offers wide range of auto body services including collision repair, car painting, body work, dent removal, hail repair, scratch removal, custom painting, etc. And i really appreciate these type of forums that help me in my work |
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01-28-2014, 11:21 PM | #329 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 244192
Join Date: Apr 2010
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
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Do all panels need to be blended in? I understand metallics need to, But do solids? I'm asking because my WRX is San Remo Red. I want to redo the bumper and maybe hood. I've painted some small items here and there and have experience with wet sanding and polishing. Also where is a good place to get color coded paint? Can I order some offline from the automotive touchup site? Any info would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
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02-02-2014, 11:37 PM | #330 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 301547
Join Date: Nov 2011
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: St. George, Utah
Vehicle:2006 Subaru STi Aspen White |
Yes! you need to blend to get a good match. You will just need less blending space if it's not a metallic. Go to your local auto body supply store with your code and find your variant with chips. I suggest PPG's Deltron line or Auto Color for the best coverage and match.
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02-25-2014, 12:14 PM | #331 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 379114
Join Date: Jan 2014
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Az
Vehicle:2005 WRX WRB |
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02-25-2014, 12:46 PM | #332 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 249794
Join Date: Jun 2010
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Huntington, WV
Vehicle:02 WRX wagon atomic orange pearl |
That needs a repaint. Once the clear starts to bleach and fade like that there isn't much you can do. A good up keep on waxing is a good preventative.
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02-25-2014, 12:56 PM | #333 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 379114
Join Date: Jan 2014
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Az
Vehicle:2005 WRX WRB |
So... i gotta do the whole roof again?
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02-25-2014, 01:22 PM | #334 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 238079
Join Date: Feb 2010
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: North Jersey
Vehicle:2009 2.5i impreza red |
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02-25-2014, 02:07 PM | #335 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 379114
Join Date: Jan 2014
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Az
Vehicle:2005 WRX WRB |
Awww ok..
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02-25-2014, 02:25 PM | #336 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 249794
Join Date: Jun 2010
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Huntington, WV
Vehicle:02 WRX wagon atomic orange pearl |
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02-26-2014, 10:15 PM | #337 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 222633
Join Date: Sep 2009
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: Katy, TX
Vehicle:02 WRX caged 'n such |
in need of some assistance. i have been doing paint and body for about 6 years now and am no stranger to working with different substrates, however i am currently in the process of widebodying my wrx and am having difficulty finding a product i can use to smooth the seams and still offer enough flex to allow for the different expansion rates from the fiberglass to metal. i currently have a 3M panel bonding adhesive that i used to adhere the panels, then came back with a self leveling 2k seam sealer. and then a high build PPG K36. even with sanding the seam sealer and feather edging it out, my seams still have low spots. I have been eyeing UPOL 7601 plastic bumper filler, thinking that it would have enough flex to suit my needs. i have never used this filler before, but have used other plastic repair products and seem to think it would fit my need.
any advice or other product recomendation is appreciated. pics for reference |
02-27-2014, 09:11 AM | #338 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 334291
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Ann Arbor, Mi
Vehicle:2013 WRX Limited Dark Grey Metallic |
I've used that filler before both on a bumper and fiberglass hood. I have no complaints how it has worked.
What about using a filler primer? I can't think of the stuff I have used in the past that I really liked, it filled amazingly well for something that you spray. The hardener was close to the consistency of molasses. I'll check out the can I have left and get you the name. That line has to suck to sand. |
03-02-2014, 04:29 PM | #339 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 222633
Join Date: Sep 2009
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: Katy, TX
Vehicle:02 WRX caged 'n such |
I've thought about using ever coats slick sand or super fill or whatever, but wasn't sure if that would give me enough of a build. I don't want to hose it down too much and have shrinking or scratch swelling issues later. I know ok not really "supposed" to put anything else on top of the seam sealer, but I was just thinking as long as it's still pliable and since the seam sealer was 2k, I'd probly be okay. Thanks for the info on the upol stuff
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03-07-2014, 12:49 PM | #340 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 379114
Join Date: Jan 2014
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Az
Vehicle:2005 WRX WRB |
[quote=sciroccodotalex;41518740]Can this be saved?
[url=http://s120.photobucket.com/user/sciroccodotalex/media/CAM00432_zps836b2be3.jpg.html] quote or whatever... i want to DIY on this hoodscoop after all. what steps do you guys recommend on this (sandpaper grit, and primer etc...) i learn better by being told "instructions". |
03-07-2014, 12:50 PM | #341 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 379114
Join Date: Jan 2014
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Az
Vehicle:2005 WRX WRB |
already have the paint for it. just need the prep steps.
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03-08-2014, 10:10 PM | #342 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 251665
Join Date: Jul 2010
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Statesville, NC
Vehicle:2006 STi Viper Blue |
1.Feather edge the flaking clear with 320 grit (da will really come in handy here!) trying to avoid going through the base coat (color) so there won't be any low spots. Keeping the da (or block if doing it by hand) flat will deter low spots.
2. Once all the flaking clear is feathered out and there is no evidence of a line between the base and the old clear, especially to the touch, you are looking good. 3. Hit the entire area well with 600 grit. 4. Blow it off, clean it with wax and grease remover. 5. Paint it. 6. Cross fingers that all is well and no runs. 7. Rejoice in the finished product : ) |
03-09-2014, 11:17 PM | #343 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 303290
Join Date: Dec 2011
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Quote:
320 grit is a but to rough/overkill IMO. The factory clear is super thin. Just spend some time with 600 grit wet sanding the clear off. 320 can and will leave grit marks that are deep and a PITA to get out. My .02 |
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03-10-2014, 09:19 AM | #344 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 251665
Join Date: Jul 2010
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Statesville, NC
Vehicle:2006 STi Viper Blue |
That's fine too. I like doing things and getting them done in the least amount of time, that's how we make money in body shops. A lot of shops will paint right over 320 grit sand scratches and that's ok too. 320 grit doesn't leave deep scratches when using a da or really even when you are blocking by hand. Going back over 320 with 600 eliminates 320 scratches and saves a lot of time. Its all about adhesion. The scratches help provide that adhesion, that's why its critical to sand. Wet sanding really isn't necessary in this situation. It will cause more of a mess than its worth. Going thru the clear here isn't a bad thing either because it is flaking off and will continue to do so. You'll want to get rid of a lot of that clear.
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05-06-2014, 02:43 PM | #345 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 327664
Join Date: Jul 2012
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: Allen, Texas
Vehicle:2008 Impreza OBS Obsidian Black |
Quote:
The part circled in red is what I want to try and sand down: My ouchies.... |
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05-08-2014, 11:21 AM | #346 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 121722
Join Date: Aug 2006
Chapter/Region:
BAIC
Vehicle:2006 Impreza WRX tr Obsidian Black |
I have an 06 wrx black obsidian pearl. I have a hookup on a brand new paint job and I was thinking about keeping it the same oem color scheme but bumping up the pearlescent green flake a little bit more than stock to be more apparent. Does anyone know what specific color layer The body shop that is doing the work would need to increase?
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02-26-2015, 01:23 PM | #347 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 334356
Join Date: Oct 2012
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Tucson AZ
Vehicle:2006 2.5i Wagon SRR |
I just purchased the front and rear side skirt accents (aero guards, side strakes, whatever you want to call them) and rear bumper lip/splitters for my 06 wagon. I have read up on prep and finishing but I have no clue how much actual paint I will need to do the job. I purchased one 12oz can of color matched paint already, is that enough to properly base coat everything?
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03-17-2015, 03:34 PM | #348 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 191557
Join Date: Oct 2008
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: Rockwall-East DFW
Vehicle:2004 WRX Wagon WRB not so minty fresh |
as my details to the left
<----- indicate: 2004 WRB WRX Wagon... all stock panels. Rear bumper is an OE Subaru piece that was painted to match. Minor collision with a medium/moderate impact with a tree, pretty much dead on in the center of the license plate area. The problem: the Sikkens base/clear paint is peeling/cracking/flaking in big pieces all the way down to the OE bumper itself. So the primer on up is coming off as a piece in 1"-5" by 1"-9" sections. literally peeling it off down to the urethane. there is absolutely no damage, deflection, warpage, etc to the actual urethane bumper. There is no "spot repairing" the actual final finish. its going to have to be stripped to the urethane, adhesion promoted, primed, sanded, primed/sealed and then base/cleared. I got that... no worries... Question: What is the safest & fastest way to strip this without gouging the OE urethane, melting the urethane, putting sanding marks in the urethane, etc? Chemical strip? if so what is the recommended brand & product for an OE urethane bumper? Sand it with a DA? if so what grit(s) and what about the license plate recess? Pics later tonight when my wife sends them (I'm out of town for work). Want to get materials on the way to the house for next weekend, get this thing off the car and get it ready for paint. thanks! ~Rob |
03-17-2015, 04:08 PM | #349 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 191557
Join Date: Oct 2008
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: Rockwall-East DFW
Vehicle:2004 WRX Wagon WRB not so minty fresh |
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03-21-2015, 10:42 PM | #350 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 415095
Join Date: Mar 2015
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Chicago IL
Vehicle:2013 STI HB SWP |
Just moved to the Schaumburg IL area. I'm looking to repaint my front bumper. It was previously painted from the previous owner but the color still doesn't match up well. Any recommendations what shop I should go to?
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