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Old 10-14-2004, 12:01 AM   #1
FuelCutOff
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Unhappy Rear Camber Issues on 02 WRX Wagon

This sucks really bad. As of late, my alignment seemed off. Last place that gave me an "alignment" was belle tire, so I don't think they did anything that resembles a decent job. Anway, my rear camber on my wagon was a little too negative for me, so I bought a pair of the eibach camber bolts to use on them.

The before specs (w/o camber bolts):
rear left: -1.6
rear right: -1.9

I then installed the camber bolts, and then took it to my buddy who has a laser guided alignment machine in his shop (he helped with the before specs a different day). We hook the machine up and the camber read the same as my before specs. Here's the $hitty part. I could never get anything more positive than my before specs, but I could get another 2 degrees of negative camber with the bolts (up to -4.0 for the rear right)!

I have the whiteline 30mm springs with the STi red wagon struts. Would these affect my camber that bad? Are rear camber plates my only option at this point? I also have an adjustable rear sway and a rear strut bar. I'm pretty sure these won't affect the camber, but I thought I ask since stranger things have happened.

So in the end, we made the rear camber equal at -2.0 a piece so at least I won't have any pull in one direction and get somewhat evener inner tire wear.

Any advice is appreciated.
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Old 10-14-2004, 01:26 AM   #2
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I did find one interesting piece of info that can possibly lead to why I'm experiencing this. I read a couple places (maybe even here) that you have to loosen the bottom strut bolt in order to properly adjust the camber using eccentric camber bolts.

We did not do that when attempting to adjust the camber. The more that I think about it, I think this may have been the problem. I can see how you get more negative camber without loosening the bottom strut bolt. However, in order to get more postive camber, I think it makes sense that you might have to loosen the bottom bolt in order to allow a more positive camber.

Any opinions on if my train of thought is correct and if I answered my own post?
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Old 10-14-2004, 01:37 AM   #3
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I think you about covered it...
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Old 10-14-2004, 06:07 AM   #4
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I'm curious to see how this one turns out.

My money is on the machine, I think its off.

I just dont see how you could ever get -4, no matter what you did (with just bolts, that is), on a Suby with just lowering springs.
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Old 10-14-2004, 08:34 AM   #5
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...I guess I missed that....unless the car was bent at some point....I could see -3 maybe...but not -4
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Old 10-14-2004, 09:54 AM   #6
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I did have an accident a while back which affected the rear right strut area, but the collison shop "fixed" it. Maybe I'll have to get that looked at to make sure.

The machine is calibrated every 3 months. However, it is strange that I managed that much camber. Hmmmm....I'll keep you guys posted.
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Old 10-14-2004, 10:05 AM   #7
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BTW, should the rear of the car be off of the ground when adjusting the camber?
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Old 10-14-2004, 12:22 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rami
BTW, should the rear of the car be off of the ground when adjusting the camber?

uuummmm....no....
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Old 10-14-2004, 01:39 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty
uuummmm....no....
Ok. I just thought I'd ask since they I'll be loosening the bottom strut bolt. I figured it might have been neccessary to raise it to release the load pressure on the bolts. Thanks
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Old 10-14-2004, 06:44 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rami
BTW, should the rear of the car be off of the ground when adjusting the camber?

Scotty, thats not "entirely" true.......

I learned that the newer Hunter machines can "lock in" the setting while the car is on the ground. Then, when they lift it, there adjustments give them a simulated (for lack of a better word) number based on what it was on the ground.

My explanation of it may not make the right amount of sense, but I saw it done to my car awhile back and it does work and make sense.

Now I do my own alignments..

Scott
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Old 10-14-2004, 07:34 PM   #11
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Let me know if you get camber bolts to work on a wagon.

I have yet to see it work.
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Old 10-14-2004, 08:12 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrx2.0 555
Scotty, thats not "entirely" true.......

I learned that the newer Hunter machines can "lock in" the setting while the car is on the ground. Then, when they lift it, there adjustments give them a simulated (for lack of a better word) number based on what it was on the ground.

My explanation of it may not make the right amount of sense, but I saw it done to my car awhile back and it does work and make sense.

Now I do my own alignments..

Scott
Quote:
Now I do my own alignments..
...mine needs done again.....
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Old 10-14-2004, 11:11 PM   #13
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Also pay attention on how the "tab" is aligned on the camber bolts- one way will give you positive, the other negative.

And most definitely you need the lower bolt loosened, same on the front <-----#1 reason why people can't get the "advertised" -1.3ish camber up front w/ the oem eccentric bolts.

Big Sky
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Old 10-14-2004, 11:29 PM   #14
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And also makes sure the little nub that sits on the inside of the "tabbed" washer actually rests between the bolt and strut hole. This little nub/tab is basically the macro setting for the camber, pro-pos or pro neg camber. DO NOT smash this nub flat when tightening, the camber bolts will slip if the nub isn't wedged between the bolt and the strut hole.
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Old 10-15-2004, 01:16 AM   #15
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Thanks for the advice everyone. I'll try to schedule another day with my friend at his shop. I'll toy around with raising the car just to see if it makes any impact.

WRXedUSA: I'll keep you posted. For now, I'm just trying to rid myself of the -2 degree camber. Since the bolts are +/-1 degree adjustment, I'll only be able to manage a -0.9 even camber on both sides. Still too much for me, but it'll do till I can get a wider range camber bolt.

BIGSKYWRX: Yes, we did that We did a full rotation of the camber bolt. Lowest setting we got was the pre-camber bolt settings of -1.6 and -1.9

Arnie: I did not flatten the tab. The tab is nudged between the strut bolt hole and the bolt. Thanks
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Old 10-15-2004, 02:53 AM   #16
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yeah, loosening the bottom bolt is key to getting any real camber adjustment. You'd think the alignment guys would know this? but they don't. with that bolt tightened nothing moves, there's like 134 lb/ft of torque on those bolts! good luck and report back with your new specs.
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Old 10-15-2004, 04:20 AM   #17
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Rami - you completely missed BIGSKYWRX's point about the bolts. The TAB-washer is the important part that determins whether you get negative correction or positive correction.

Let's first define terminology here. When we say the "tab" we don't mean the little flange that you can stick in the hole - we mean the big tab hanging off the washer:


You need to rotate that tab-washer 180degrees so that the tab is pointing out towards the wheel instead of in towards the strut. This is all covered in the little instruction sheet that comes with camber bolts but I guess the directions were hard to interpret or something.

Also, yes you are supposed to loosen the lower bolt to allow adjustment but believe me - it DOES move even with that bolt clamped down - just not smoothly or predictably.

Also, I don't know what brand of camber bolt you're using, but i've seen several of them and not one of the brands I've seen is better than the Ingalls FastCam bolts. The Eibach's that TireRack sells are pieces of crap.

edit - found the Ingalls website with the exact part# of the bolts I use:
http://www.ingallseng.com/parts/35420.htm

Last edited by nhluhr; 10-15-2004 at 04:38 AM.
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Old 10-15-2004, 07:41 AM   #18
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Old 10-15-2004, 09:19 AM   #19
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Yup - the tab is key, if it's aligned wrong you'll be going the wrong way w/ camber.

Also -0.9ish should be fine, you still want some neg camber in the rear tires- you don't want to dial it all out.

Big Sky
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Old 10-15-2004, 10:20 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nhluhr
Let's first define terminology here. When we say the "tab" we don't mean the little flange that you can stick in the hole - we mean the big tab hanging off the washer:

You need to rotate that tab-washer 180degrees so that the tab is pointing out towards the wheel instead of in towards the strut.
Oh ok, thanks for pointing that out. That is another of my problems. I believe they are both pointing in a towards the strut. Yikes!

Quote:
Originally Posted by nhluhr
This is all covered in the little instruction sheet that comes with camber bolts but I guess the directions were hard to interpret or something.
They didn't come with any instructions, but no need to make any rude comments.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nhluhr
Also, I don't know what brand of camber bolt you're using, but i've seen several of them and not one of the brands I've seen is better than the Ingalls FastCam bolts. The Eibach's that TireRack sells are pieces of crap.
Unfortunately, I have the Eibach's! They were reccommeded on this very site when I asked a while ago.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nhluhr
edit - found the Ingalls website with the exact part# of the bolts I use:
http://www.ingallseng.com/parts/35420.htm
Thanks!
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Old 10-15-2004, 10:21 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty
Thanks!
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Old 10-15-2004, 11:31 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXedUSA
Let me know if you get camber bolts to work on a wagon.

I have yet to see it work.
I've got rear camber bolts on my wagon with ver7 struts (sedan) and pink springs. -1.3 camber in the rear.
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Old 10-15-2004, 12:53 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXedUSA
Let me know if you get camber bolts to work on a wagon.

I have yet to see it work.
No reason they wouldn't work on a wagon. I've got them in the rear (v7 STi wagon struts/springs) and am getting -0.8- was at -1.7 w/o them.

Big Sky
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Old 10-15-2004, 07:58 PM   #24
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Yep that Ingalls 35420 is specified for ALL subarus since they all use 14mm strut-to-knuckle bolts.

I had some guy on another forum tell me he had to use 16mm but it came out that he was replacing the factory camber bolt with an aftermarket one no wonder he didn't get any extra adjustment out of it....
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Old 07-31-2020, 10:26 AM   #25
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Did the rear camber bolts work I know this old lol
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