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Old 04-05-2018, 08:09 PM   #526
Gingahippy
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Also . . . does anyone know of a good source for replacement hoses?

Subaru want to charge me $295 for the new pair.
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Old 04-06-2018, 10:58 AM   #527
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the two hardline hoses will run you that amount. The two rubber hoses from the hardline to the reservoir and reservoir to pump will cost about $85. Are you sure the hardlines are the cause of the issue?
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Old 06-12-2018, 09:49 AM   #528
Angrypoonani
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the oil shaft seal from an 08 sti power steering pump looks like it's part of the aluminum housing to me... either that or pressed in.

I tried to remove it with some pliers but all I could manage to do was rip it up. When I ripped more of the seal out I found that there was metal in the middle of the seal, making it really hard to remove.
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Old 07-07-2018, 05:59 AM   #529
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I have a leaking PS pump on a 2011 STI's . Like the OP, it was leaking from the fitting that holds the variable displacement spring.

I used the same o ring as the one on the suction hose fitting. We'll see if that holds.

Below are some pictures.


Leak identified using UV florescent dye. It glows orange to the eye. The camera sees it as white.




Parts used.



Old o ring beside new one. Notice the permanently deformed cross section.

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Old 07-09-2018, 05:08 PM   #530
hsbr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C4STI View Post
Update-

It turns out my pump did not like the FEP-Encapsulated o-rings. The two o-rings immediately apparent after separating the halves were not wide enough on my pump to create a good seal so fluid would begin seeping through the halves when I started the car (even after torquing the 4 bolts down to 25 foot-pounds). As you can see in the image, they barely protrude out of the recess.



This was my third time pulling the pump so I decided that I would go with Metric Buna-N's throughout as my last ditch effort and busted out my digital caliper to determine the best sizes since I didn't want to take any more chances. I figured my pump could be different considering the amount of folks who've had success using the FEP. I also felt that I may as well give the Buna-N a shot since they're likely what came stock and they held up for 100K + miles.

Here is what I ordered from McMaster-Carr based on my measurements (pretty much spot on to the measurements taken by everyone else except I went with the metric Buna-N):

1 9262K711 Metric Buna-N O-Ring, 2 mm Width, 65 mm ID, Packs of 25 (large half seal)

2 9262K177 Metric Buna-N O-Ring, 2 mm Width, 13 mm ID, Packs of 100 (small half seal)

3 9262K401 Metric Buna-N O-Ring, 1.8 mm Width, 12.5 mm ID, Packs of 100 (inlet, high pressure standoff & bolt w/spring)

4 9262K452 Metric Buna-N O-Ring, 2.5 mm Width, 50 mm ID, Packs of 50 (large internal)

5 9262K537 Metric Buna-N O-Ring, 2.5 mm Width, 24 mm ID, Packs of 50 (small internal)

6 9262K182 Metric Buna-N O-Ring, 2 mm Width, 17 mm ID, Packs of 100 (hex bolt)

7 9262K446 Metric Buna-N O-Ring, 2 mm Width, 11 mm ID, Packs of 50 (sensor)

As you can see, they don't sell these individually so I have enough to rebuild my pump many times over. I'm sure you can source them in smaller quantities elsewhere.

All the o-rings went in without any issues. The larger 65mm o-ring may appear too large at first, but it will fit nicely into the recess if you help it along. Also, when replacing the smaller internal o-ring (24mm ID), I found it worked best to place it in it's recess on the center of the disk which also holds the larger 50mm ID o-ring (see image). Then holding the pump with the shaft facing down, slide the entire disk over the shaft and push it all the way up till the larger o-ring contacts the pump. This way there's no chance for the o-ring to come out of it's recess and potentially get pinched later.



The following image clearly shows the difference between the different o-rings I tried on the smaller internal portion of the pump. I went with the Buna-N, but the FEP -119 looks like it would have worked.



The pump is now back on the car, leak free and working like new. It won't stutter no matter how hard I try. The ultimate test will be the autocross course, but that won't be anytime soon. Thanks again to all who contributed the great information.
I ended up ordering metric Buna N rings since it seems like this is the best way to avoid having to fiddle with the pump again for another 100k.

Did you end up having any issues with these sizes? I just ordered some from the oringstore.com
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Old 09-25-2018, 11:35 AM   #531
Annie Datkinson
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Post O-ring supplier

I found this website really useful for finding out information about O-rings:

https://trp.co.uk/ffkm

You can also call them up and receive a quote for one of their O-rings. Hope this helps!
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Old 09-25-2018, 02:57 PM   #532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Annie Datkinson View Post
I found this website really useful for finding out information about O-rings:

https://trp.co.uk/ffkm

You can also call them up and receive a quote for one of their O-rings. Hope this helps!
...a sneaking suspicion that you work for TRP

And no, I'm not mad. As a design engineer, I've always used Parker or Trelleborg. Always nice to have another option.
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Old 01-18-2019, 01:01 PM   #533
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i have a problem, i rebuild the pump, but i dont remember how is installed the spool valve...



1,2,3 o 4?
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Old 01-19-2019, 03:56 PM   #534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarmelValleyWRX View Post
i just did this on my 05 wagon. how long did it take you guys to get the air out of the lines? i drove the car around and my steering is stiff. like another poster a bit back in this thread i have no whine noise from the pump but its not putting out proper pressure all the time. sometimes it will start working properly then get stiff again. i used mostly HNBR and a few buna n in spots. there are some tiny bubbles in the res and i keep letting it sit for a while and turning wheels with it on a jack. it just seems weird and different than my past experiences with air in the lines. is there some dumb mistake i made that would cause these symptoms? almost seems like its bypassing pressure inside the pump or something stupid like that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CarmelValleyWRX View Post
LOL. i put the frickin control valve and spring in the wrong way just like a guy earlier in this thread. cant believe i did that flipped it around with the spring first and open side of piston in, started working instantly when i fired it up.

as you can see i have assembled my valve wrong when i did it.

i dont remember how it goes but according to me from the past i would say option 1 or 3 is correct.
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Old 01-26-2019, 08:26 PM   #535
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Hey boys,

First off, thanks to OP for this write up. It will probably make my 2019, assuming I have no more leaks. But I went ahead and attempted this after about a year, maybe two of dealing with sputtering and eventually going out when making turns.. Yikes! It wasn't a big deal until more and more smoke from the scoop. So I dove in replaced almost all of the o rings. I purchased from oringusa.com with part numbers from one of the previous posts. Thanks for that.

So here I am, having completed the task at hand and would like to offer some feedback.

1) SAFETY FIRST: This project is a mess. Definitely have proper eye wear to keep from splashing in the eyes. I didn't have my goggles on and did get a splash on my cheek. Last thing you want is oil or coolant in your eyes.
2) HAVE THE RIGHT TOOLS: I though I had the snap ring pliers, but couldn't find them, or the long socket 12mm. Had to run to auto parts store to pick them up. Air ratchet does wonders since you won't have a lot of leverage after the pump is off.
3) HAVE EXTRA FLUIDS: PS Fluid, Coolant, Beer. No need to explain.
4) GIVE MORE THAN ENOUGH TIME: I projected about 4 hours and it took about 5. So give yourself more time. I spent about an hour to remove the pump from car the night before, then stopped because I couldn't get the pump off the bracket. The bolt was on tight and didn't want to wake the neighbors at 1am turning on the compressor.
6) DOCUMENT: I took pics for reference so I wouldn't forget what went where. There's a lot of little pieces when you disassemble the pump.
5) No beer before the project: This is up for debate. I opted not to in case I need to run to the store again for more tools. Also because if it didn't work out in the end, I would have been an angry drunk.

So when I finished, I thought for sure I put everything back in the right place. I didn't have any left over parts... phew! But after powering up the car.. it was no bueno. I was down for a bit, but remembered that the banjo bolt could have been the issue. So I tightened it just a touch more and no luck. Turning the wheel was like Fred Flintstone trying to turn. So then I loosened the bolt and oil seeped out, so I turned it back just a touch... Voila... turning like a champ (minus air bubbles). Drove around the block and as I was coming back, it sputtered a little, so I turned it out until no more bubbles.

I also did not remove the hex bolt because lazy and I don't think I had the tool for it. The bearing stayed because I felt there was nothing wrong with it, even though I purchased a new one. Truth though, I didn't have a tool to remove it or a deep enough socket to pop it out. I did replace the shaft seal. That was a pita to get off, so if it you do remove it, make sure you have the right one. It'll get destroyed while removing. It was a little difficult to put back and flush, so take your time with that too. The wire o ring also stayed. At this point. I was done and wanted a beer.

Thanks again to the OP, you're a 2019 saver. I'm never giving up this '04. Also bought it new and has been running like a champ... 15 years and 125k later... Just need to get that AC fixed now.

Good luck on this boys!

https://imgur.com/a/3f7kWRq Here's a link to what it looked like if anybody is interested.
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Old 04-12-2019, 03:59 AM   #536
tjohn23
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Default Oil Shaft Seal

I found the seal for a 1998 honda CR-V fits perfectly

Part number: Honda (91249-P2A-003) or SKF 7868
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Old 04-12-2019, 05:39 AM   #537
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Can someone summarize the part numbers for 08+, as the OP has only 02-07 MY?
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Old 04-16-2019, 12:25 PM   #538
SubestegasREXT
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Default 08+ pumps 34430FG040

Hey guys, I have found this thread super helpful so thank you all for all the hard work. I'm in the middle of a huge overhaul of my SG FXT which includes the faster 13.1 steering rack so I got my hands on a cheap 09 sti pump that needs rebuilding.

I'm glad to say I can finally contribute! My old pump most likely needed one seal for the inlet but since it's an 06 with 197k miles, I'd say it did pretty well. In this post and the next, I will take appart both the 06 sg forester pump and the 09 sti pump side by side to highlight the differences between the two, and figure out what other o-rings I have to buy.

More to come soon! Most likely tonight.
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Old 04-16-2019, 12:26 PM   #539
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Old 04-16-2019, 12:27 PM   #540
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Old 04-26-2019, 11:42 PM   #541
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Default No power steering at idle

Hi guys

Following the OP's instructions, I just replaced all the o-rings in my pump and got it reinstalled today. I am getting no power assist at idle, and very low rpms while moving. If I push in the clutch while moving I also lose power. This is weird because I didn't have this problem prior to the rebuild... The pump isn't leaking at all or making any noise.

What did I do wrong?
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Old 04-26-2019, 11:44 PM   #542
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbragato View Post
i have a problem, i rebuild the pump, but i dont remember how is installed the spool valve...



1,2,3 o 4?
Did you figure this out? I have a sneaking suspicion this may be why I have no power steering at idle... I just guessed when I put this part back together because I wasn't paying attention when I removed it.

Edit: found a post further back in this thread that confirms spring goes in hole first, then open end of the pin/valve. I will have to pull this back out tomorrow and double check what I did.

Last edited by atm0706; 04-27-2019 at 12:01 AM.
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Old 01-16-2020, 08:49 AM   #543
ekw
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just another satisfied customer dropping in to say "thanks!" to 68Cadillac.

in March 2016, my OEM PS pump began puking fluid. I found this thread, but I was in a hurry, so I bought and installed a cheap rebuilt pump, ate the core charge and kept my OEM pump.
then I took the "shopping list" to McMaster-Carr and bought all the parts I needed
(well, not the shaft oil seal, lol) and then let it all sit in my basement in a box while the old pump sat in a plastic bucket, sadly leaking.
fast forward to December 2019 when the cheap rebuilt began pumping fluid into the engine compartment.

it was time to dust off the stuff & get rebuilding!

except for discovering that I never bought the oil seal and having to get someone else to press out the shaft, it went well.

but I did a poor job of filling the new pump the first time & got no pumping.
took out the banjo bolt and put a suction gun/pump on the hole and pulled out the air, then lived happily ever after.

I hope.

anyway - thanks for doing all the heavy lifting finding the sizes and part numbers.
I never could have done it without you!
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Old 04-28-2020, 10:15 PM   #544
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I'm curious if this will only fix issues relating to leaking or if it will fix things like no power steering at idle and just general noise and inconsistent turning?

My rack went out just replaced it I had been hearing the squealing noises (didn't even realize it was my rack till I got to replacing my struts long story) So I got it all back together, and no idle turning at all.

I read it's a common problem for people locking their wheels while joy riding, but this is just my DD and I mostly drive like a grandma.

Anyone know if a rebuild will solve this or if I just need to buy a used one and rebuild it?

I attempted to look around but I didn't see a large amount of information in relation to what rebuilding can and what it cannot solve.
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Old 06-03-2020, 06:39 PM   #545
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I was piecing together all the O-rings and I found a seller on eBay with great prices, seller's name is swint101. Total comes out to ~$20 for more than enough to do 2 pumps (he has a minimum quantity on some rings)
He offers the sizes in Buna-70 or silicone, don't use silicone since it is not resistant to petroleum products.


His store link is here, this link will probably not be valid in 2-3 years as ebay changes it's URL:
https://www.ebay.com/ulk/usr/swint101

Last edited by thejaredhuang; 06-03-2020 at 06:54 PM.
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Old 06-04-2020, 03:39 AM   #546
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08STI916 View Post
I can confirm the o'rings are the same for 08+ STi, just rebuilt mine today. Configuration of pump is slightly different but close enough to the 07 downward. Also if you're located in Sacramento area, I got my o'rings at Hydraulic Power Sales they had all of them in stock; total price was $2.

Did you happen to know if you used the same o'rings?


Someone else said this....


Quote:
Originally Posted by Gingahippy View Post
I followed this thread and ohters and rebuilt 2 PS pumps for an 09 Impreza. Neither worked. I think the problem may be the larger o-ring Dash 037. It is only 1.75mm, and the next thickness up is 2.6mm, the 0-ring I removed from the pump was 2mm and fit perfectly in the space. 037 did not fill the space and 144 was too thick, I had to replace all the o-rings with thicker ones to match and then squish them when I tightened the bolts down.

Has anyone else had this trouble? Im currently running a Duralast reman ps pump, but after 2 weeks that is also now letting air in, or something is somewhere. I already replaced the pump inlet o-ring and used threaded hose clamps on all hoses.

I have an '10. Came in for a recall and dealer told me my PSP is leaking (I don't see any leaks....sure?). Anyways, would rather start planning.




@SubestegasREXT Did you end up ever doing that?
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Old 06-04-2020, 01:57 PM   #547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ObsoleteSeed View Post
Did you happen to know if you used the same o'rings?
Didn't he say he used the same?

Either way I think we should be using metric O-Ring sizes to get perfect fit. If you're using Buna-N you can get away with imperial sizes because they are somewhat soft and designed to conform. In the United States imperial is much easier to come by but you'll have to make some compromises because some will not match the OE exactly.
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Old 06-05-2020, 06:05 PM   #548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atm0706 View Post
Did you figure this out? I have a sneaking suspicion this may be why I have no power steering at idle... I just guessed when I put this part back together because I wasn't paying attention when I removed it.

Edit: found a post further back in this thread that confirms spring goes in hole first, then open end of the pin/valve. I will have to pull this back out tomorrow and double check what I did.
I agree that "picture 1" is the correct orientation. But does it matter which way the holes on the side are oriented? One side has 2 holes, while the other sides only have 1 hole. Which way does the side with the 2 holes face?
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Old 06-27-2020, 02:49 AM   #549
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In the process of rebuilding, what are people using for torque specs? I found a TRW service manual for their rebuilt pumps and they recommend 24 ft/lbs on the 4 casing bolts, 67 ft/lbs on the plugs.

I did about 45-55 on the 2 plugs (10mm hex and the one with the spring), 45 on the hex riser (high pressure out), and I tried 25 on the 4 casing bolts but they yielded and now I have one broken off in the housing (probably over torqued it with my HF torque wrench).

Also after you guys press in the new bearing does it take noticeably more force to spin the shaft? I had 2 bearings and they both did the same.

Pretty sure my pump was leaking from the riser, PO used silicone + a copper washer in between the pump and the riser instead of an O-ring. The 2 o-rings in the front section were brittle, others were hard and all flattened.

EDIT:
Go with around 20 ft/lbs on the case bolts, 2 out of 4 of mine stripped.

Last edited by thejaredhuang; 06-29-2020 at 10:32 PM.
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Old 07-25-2020, 10:00 PM   #550
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Has anyone done this on 2008-09 Legacy/Outback? Trying to confirm oring sizes and parts list for the 34430AG051 ('50 superceded) part # pump. I have an extra around and figure it's worth a shot. I'll repost/link info to LegacyGT forums if anyone knows.

Thanks
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