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Old 02-26-2019, 12:01 PM   #301
T-37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fartbox420 View Post
So i bit the bullet and ordered a 2015+ STi rack. i was wondering if anyone had updates on how well the spacers are working for you? has anyone changed the dimensions?
This may or may not be relevant. You may have to add a washer above each bushing, or you could probably grind down that boss if it's touching the subframe.

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Originally Posted by T-37 View Post
Minor update. 2 seasons ago, I pulled the OEM bushings out of the 2015 rack and installed some homemade solid bushings. Since then I'd developed a popping noise, when changing directions that coincided with wheel bearing failures. But after the bearings were replaced the noise persisted, so I did some more digging.

I found 2 problems:
1) my custom solid bushing were about .020" undersized, leaving a fair amount of side to side play (likely the problem)

2) the raised boss on the top side of the rack was contacting the subframe (also a problem).



I remedied both of these problems by reinstalling the bushings wet with some urethane, and using washers on the top side to space everything back down. There are no noises now.

I don't remember for sure if I had this popping noise before when I just had the OEM bushings in the '15 rack. BUT for anyone who has that noise, take a look into it, you may have to shim the rack down.
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Old 02-26-2019, 02:26 PM   #302
fartbox420
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Originally Posted by T-37 View Post
This may or may not be relevant. You may have to add a washer above each bushing, or you could probably grind down that boss if it's touching the subframe.
Thanks for the heads up, i will take a file to that raised section if thats the only thing that rubs.

I have been looking at pump replacements. What do you think of re-manufactured pumps? There are a few companies that sell re-manned 08 Sti pumps for only around $250 Canadian on RockAuto. could save people a lot of money doing this swap.

Edit: A re-manufactured pump is probably not the best bet. Kind of a crapshoot whether it works well or lasts more than six months.

Last edited by fartbox420; 02-26-2019 at 06:49 PM.
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Old 02-26-2019, 06:52 PM   #303
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Sorry late to the thread. Recently while researching STI swaps for my GD I ran across this data base.: http://www.spec-c.com/spec-c-quick-rack-steering/

According to this info the STI's in 06 and 07, plus a select few earlier models had the 13:1 ratio.
I didn't read all the way through all these pages... seems like it would be a lot easier to just source the appropriate STI rack?
What am I missing?
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Old 02-26-2019, 07:49 PM   #304
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The spec C was sold in RHD markets. There were some quick ratio LHD racks for group N, but they are quite expensive http://www.rallispec.com/sus_ste_rst3474.html . The USDM 2015 STI rack is 13:1, LHD, relatively cheap and available at any Subaru dealer.
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Old 02-27-2019, 08:45 AM   #305
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Edit: So the std STi 13:1 only applies to RHD markets?

Last edited by pazzoduc; 02-27-2019 at 09:24 AM.
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Old 02-27-2019, 10:04 AM   #306
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I'm not sure what market that list is compiling. There were no 13:1 steering racks available standard on Subarus in the US market until the 2015 STi. The 02-04 WRX had something like 16.5:1, all GD and GR STI and 05+ (or was it 06+?) WRX had 15:1.
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Old 02-27-2019, 10:44 AM   #307
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Interesting. THX!

Edit, So the rest of the world that got LHD cars are all USDM spec?
Seems odd.
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Old 02-27-2019, 11:46 AM   #308
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I believe the 13:1 was only in the Spec C RHD models, not all of them.

Hey T-37, have you read anything about a restrictor in the stock STi High pressure line? I read the old STis had them to prevent fluid foaming and noisy rack/pump.
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Old 02-27-2019, 01:44 PM   #309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pazzoduc View Post
Interesting. THX!

Edit, So the rest of the world that got LHD cars are all USDM spec?
Seems odd.
I don't know what other LHD markets got. If there's something out there, nobody has found it yet, or if they have they haven't shared that info. If you can find a P/N for another stock LHD 13:1 rack that isn't 3 grand please share it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fartbox420 View Post
I believe the 13:1 was only in the Spec C RHD models, not all of them.

Hey T-37, have you read anything about a restrictor in the stock STi High pressure line? I read the old STis had them to prevent fluid foaming and noisy rack/pump.
There is an interference between the hardlines when you connect them to the 2015 rack because the clocking of the hardlines is different. This causes the lines to touch each other and the downpipe. Some people have bent the GD hardline in order to clear the downpipe.

At the other end where the line goes into the pump can be an issue if you switch to a later model power steering pump.

I'm using an AN line for the line from the pump to the rack to avoid both interference issues.
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Old 02-27-2019, 01:55 PM   #310
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Not interference, but a small hole built-in to restrict flow at the fitting, some say the pump itself has a flow regulator to prevent too much flow during high rpm. I know with the newer pump it has the side feed. so i plan to use AN lines and modify the plastic turbo inlet if i had to. I just want to avoid fluid foaming.
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Old 02-27-2019, 02:54 PM   #311
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Yes, interference between the 2 lines. Yes I know about the restrictor, but fitment was the reason for using an AN line. See below

Quote:
Originally Posted by T-37 View Post
Yes, they should work just fine. The main issue with the lines is that the large/small hardlines switched positions on the rack, so the stock hardline ends of the GD hoses interfered with one another and the downpipe.
Quote:
Originally Posted by T-37 View Post
Yep. The threads are still the same, and the high pressure/low pressure lines have 2 different sized fittings. It should be as simple as disconnect/reconnect if you're using braided lines.

With the stock lines it's more difficult because the ends of the lines are solid.

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Old 03-01-2019, 02:30 PM   #312
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ok, i may have missed it but what AN fittings you are using at the rack, are they straight? or 90 degree?

Also in the steel lines DIY, it says at the end of the lines at the rack it uses a M14 Female to 6AN Male, shouldnt it be a M14 Male o-ring to 6AN male screwed into the rack, hi pressure side?

Edit: Is this DIY to make lines that go to the hardlines on the rack? not to the port on the pinion housing? thats the only way it makes sense to me.

Last edited by fartbox420; 03-01-2019 at 02:41 PM.
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Old 03-01-2019, 02:45 PM   #313
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Straight fittings, read post 2, don't use the Fragola o-ring fittings...

Edit: use the Russel

Quote:
Originally Posted by fartbox420 View Post
Edit: Is this DIY to make lines that go to the hardlines on the rack? not to the port on the pinion housing? thats the only way it makes sense to me.
Yes

Last edited by T-37; 03-01-2019 at 02:57 PM.
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Old 03-20-2019, 09:07 AM   #314
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Quick questions for all of those who changed the inner tie rod ends, did you tighten the steering gear clearance as instructed by the manual or not before changing them? Most DIY skip that steps, just want to make sure it's safe to do so on the 2015 rack. tx
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Old 05-14-2019, 09:20 PM   #315
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There are a number of these racks appearing on ebay with inner tie rod damage. Obviously pulled from 2015-present STI's that were likely totaled. They are usually very low mileage and half the price of a new rack. Obviously it's a bit of a risk, but my feeling is that if the rack/pinion gear assembly operate smoothly throughout it's range of motion then it should be ok. Such an impact should either do damage immediately or not at all.

Has anyone else gone this route?

Well I finally got around to installing this eBay tafeoff rack in my 03 wagon, I went the re-use your inner tie rods route since one of the inners from the STI rack was bent.

Having access to machine tools I actually recycled the new racks old inner tie rods to turn (haha literally) into thread adapters!

Since my pressure hose was leaking I also installed a iag stainless house and re bent the return hose Hardline to fit.

This was a very much needed upgrade, it's so much better than my 340,000km old slow and loose rack!

Some pics below:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Lzbv18fe4KSyGKtVA
https://photos.app.goo.gl/oSCbu35NuGwNMXbM7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/qu2RdvoRSsf6htyh8
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Old 05-15-2019, 03:18 PM   #316
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smoky View Post
Quick questions for all of those who changed the inner tie rod ends, did you tighten the steering gear clearance as instructed by the manual or not before changing them? Most DIY skip that steps, just want to make sure it's safe to do so on the 2015 rack. tx
Hmmmm, can't say that I've heard of folks doing this on late model Subarus, especially on what is essentially a brand new steering rack. The guys on my Tercel forum do it all the time, however.
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Old 06-23-2019, 11:25 AM   #317
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Here's a second install that I've just finished today, if the photos might be of any service.

https://www.subarufanclub.ro/forum/index.php/topic,3381.msg121158.html#msg121158

An EDM 2001 wrx wagon with a complete JDM V7 swap. Meaning sedan lower arms.
All went smooth, no problems at all.
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Old 06-23-2019, 11:40 AM   #318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanSSS View Post
Here's a second install that I've just finished today, if the photos might be of any service.

https://www.subarufanclub.ro/forum/i...html#msg121158

An EDM 2001 wrx wagon with a complete JDM V7 swap. Meaning sedan lower arms.
All went smooth, no problems at all.
So if my memory is correct, you did not have to do any modifications to the inner tie rods because you are sedan width right?

Also, whats that nifty kit for with the brass spacer? Besides the spacer.
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Old 06-23-2019, 12:00 PM   #319
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Correct, you don't have to modify the inner rods never. Look a few pages behind at my first install, on my wagon-length arms. I've used Subaru Leone outer rods.
All the information is here.

The "kit" as you call it includes:
- post 2004 subaru longer bolt for the driver's side, non-spacer side
- 60mm M10 with 1.25mm pitch and 10.9 hardness for the drivers side, spacer side
- brass spacer so it won't rust
- split pins (not sure on my choice of words) for the outer rod nut fixation
- steering fluid.

For EDM, that's all you need. For USDM, I take it that you guys have weird steering lines.
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Old 07-07-2019, 03:55 PM   #320
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Quick update on the super-slow GC chassis install: Got the EA81/82 outer tie rod ends and installed them after trimming the inner tie rod down by about ~1.7cm. Looks like I should now have the adjustability I need!

Will update once everything’s back in the car.
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