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Old 06-22-2019, 07:04 PM   #26
pcampbell
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Location: VT
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2005 2.5 SC OB

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You can get ARP rod studs , not 100% sure they fit your rods but could help.
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Old 06-22-2019, 08:08 PM   #27
ScubaruImpreza05
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Member#: 74041
Join Date: Nov 2004
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Suburbia PA
Vehicle:
2006 2012 Weee-strom
14 Hyundai Borenata

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dev6565 View Post
Valve lash changes slightly when the head is bolted to the block. So yes you could do it ahead of time but it will be more accurate if you wait to do it until after the heads are torqued on.
Alright I will just wait until I have them tied to the block. Thanks again.
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Old Yesterday, 07:29 AM   #28
pcampbell
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Was it not until a certain year that they put the AB on the top of case halves ? I’ve got AB marked pistons but don’t see it on the block.

EDIT: Nevermind... I used a wire brush on the spot and found them

Last edited by pcampbell; Yesterday at 12:02 PM.
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Old Yesterday, 12:29 PM   #29
ScubaruImpreza05
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2006 2012 Weee-strom
14 Hyundai Borenata

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Finally pulled the rods off my crank. Cylinders 1 through 3 bearings look great, 4 had something get in it and the bearing is a little scratched and has a few pock marks, no cracks or missing pieces. The crank journal looks fine, can't feel any raised lines or anything, surface is nice and polished looking. I think the bearing took the bullet for the crank.

I do have another question: For the new block, it came with the 6 12 point case bolts from the factory. Do I use those new bolts, or should I use my case bolts from the old block because those are already pre-stretched and will match up with the stretching on everything else that will be bolted in?
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Old Today, 09:25 AM   #30
ScubaruImpreza05
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Member#: 74041
Join Date: Nov 2004
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Suburbia PA
Vehicle:
2006 2012 Weee-strom
14 Hyundai Borenata

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I went ahead and picked up some telescoping gauges and a micrometer set, and a digital vernier caliper with inner and outer measurements. I am going to start measuring out and writing everything out hopefully tonight. I'm hoping my pistons will be within spec to put in the new bores. I did the flex hone to remove the surface rust on the new cylinder walls, super quick in and out honing to just give a good seating surface. I think I am just going to use the old case bolts because they are pre-stretched and I feel better having it match all the other pre-stretched bolts.

For rod bearing clearance, I was told to avoid Plastigauge use, as it may not be precise enough. I believe I measure the crank journal (Micrometer), then I measure the inside of the rod bearing area (Telescoping gauge, lock in place, then pull out and measure with micrometer). Take the rod measurement, subtract the size of the bearing, and then compare to the journal size on the crank? Since these rods are used, can I torque them to say 50 Ft. lbs off the crank and then measure? They are going back on the same crank and journals, so not sure what I'd gain (or how I'd even measure) if I torqued them down on the crank.
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