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Old 09-27-2017, 09:36 AM   #51
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 474949
Join Date: Sep 2017

Originally Posted by AbACUZ View Post
One of the things that need to be added to this thread is the stock aligment numbers for the differnt models.
Yes, that's what I am looking for.
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Old 03-03-2019, 01:42 PM   #52
Scooby Newbie
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Join Date: Mar 2019

Absolutely going to give this a go in the near future and will try to compare math vs. level vs. smartphone.
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Old 03-13-2019, 08:17 PM   #53
Norm Peterson
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Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: our wrx IS the family sedan
'19 WRX Limited 6MT
'08 Mustang GT (the toy)


Originally Posted by Grantmac View Post
Absolutely going to give this a go in the near future and will try to compare math vs. level vs. smartphone.
Patience is the big key to doing your own alignments.

I've been doing all of mine since the early 1980's. Right there in my own driveway, with various methods of making the measurements. After that, it's only "wrench work".

As for coincidence, I finally managed to get the left front camber on our brand-new 2019 WRX close to where I wanted it to be. The right side was 'cake'. All I've got left is maybe a little final toe tweaking, once I do the parallel strings setup.

FWIW, "stock alignment numbers" can mean different things.

First, there's "factory preferred", which is usually what an alignment tech will shoot for.

There's also some tolerance either side of that, and in the case of camber and caster, tolerances on how much difference is allowed to exist between the measurements on the wheels at the same end of the car (called "cross-camber and cross-caster, respectively). This would cover what Subaru feels is still acceptably close.

And then there's the alignment numbers that happen to work best for each individual. This really could be the same as "factory preferred", but if your driving is significantly more "enthusiastic" than whatever average driver that Subaru chose their specs for - or significantly less so - then your alignment numbers probably shouldn't match "factory preferred".

Let's just say that in my own case, the RF camber was essentially at "factory preferred" but the LF camber was barely within both the minimum spec for camber and the maximum tolerance for cross. What's there now is just a touch less negative than the max negative end of the factory range with barely 0.1 of cross.

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