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Old 08-08-2003, 04:21 AM   #1
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 13060
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Longmont, CO, USA
2000 Impreza 2.5 RSt

Lightbulb Sticky clutch pedal fix $3

NOTE: Read the 2012 post. You can have a $0 fix, by removing the Subaru assist spring.

----------- Bellow is left for reference or people who have weak calves ------------------

Lots of wasted time to fix the sticky clutch pedal problem,
but I got it!
Skip down to the pictures if you just want to see the fix.

Otherwise, there is my sad story:

On my MY00 2.5RS, I had an ACT clutch from a previous owner. It finally start slipping. I had "Clutch Specialties" http://www.clutchspecialties.com/ put rebuild my ACT pressure plate using a stock contact metal surface ($100). They also hooked me up with an extra tough clutch disk ($150).

I got an Excedy Flywheel and installed all the stuff in my garage over a course of a month (I am very slow).

I was very disappointed when I found that the clutch pedal sticks to the floor. It did not do that before !

I found the possible problems from numerous forum posts:
1) Bleed the clutch
2) Adjust the screw on the pedal
3) Sticky pedal mechanism
4) Bad slave cylinder
5) Bad master cylinder
6) Bad hose connecting the two
7) Bad pressure plate (that is what the dealership mechanic said)
8) Snout is worned out.

1-6 did not require taking car apart.
1) Bled the clutch a few times. Even put in fancy synth break fluid. Result: no change.

2) The metal braket was all the way up, I screwed it down
to the middle. That transfered the sticky point into the middle
of the pedal travel. Reslut : Drivable, but very annoying.

3) Sprayed lots of white Li grease on the springs and the
mechanical components around the pedal and the master cyl.
Results: greasy footwell, same clutch feel.

4) Changed the slave cylinder to CNC one from
I'll make another thread about that.
Result: Easier to press the clutch, but still sticky either on the floor or close to the floor. Worst then before. But, the stickiness comes in when the engine warms up. So, you think you had it working, but ...
http://www.pdmturbos.com/ has a slave cyl for $129,
this one was $50 + $13 for adjustable rod (see the future thread)

5) Could not find a horizontal mounting holes aftermarket one,
ordered the stock one, not yet here.

6) Got a metal hose from the same place as slave cyl. Part of 4)

7) Don't have $300 for a new pressure plate, as I spent some money on the cylinders. Todo.

8) $129 for a metal ring from http://www.pdmturbos.com/ ?
Why do they hate us so much ?
But I will get it when I get the new pressure plate.

----------------------- $3 fix -----------------------
Go to autostore (Autozone), get a Pedal Return Spring. I found
"Help!" brand, part #29003 (or #29002). It is a 3 - 4 in coil, with a hook on one side and a straight long metal rod/wire on the other. You have to make your own hook on the straight side (don't loose and use the little plastic pin cover). $2.99.

Cool thing: there are already holes for a spring on the pedal and under the dash ! Simply cut the straight side and make a hook that suits your additional return pedal pressure needs. Start with a length that will just hold the spring in place when you hook it between the pedal and the dash.

This is the overall view:

Red arrow marks the spot where you might have to improv some noise reduction device (Ducttape ?). It is pretty quite though.

Connection to the pedal:

Connection to under the dash:

Result: it works surprisingly well. Since the new clutch cylinder makes it easier to press the pedal, the spring does not make pressing the clutch a workout, it's actually a negligible addition to the down force. On the return trip, the pedal feels much better, no noticeable sticking (but since I know where it should stick I can feel a small slow down in return speed).

Eventually, when it will be time to change the clutch again, I will definitely get a new pressure plate and that snout thing (hope it drops in price).
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Last edited by BigKuma; 05-08-2012 at 03:28 AM.
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Old 08-08-2003, 08:11 AM   #2
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 30800
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Location: Ontario
2000 .7 RS


wow. thats pretty interesting. i just had my clutch replaced and it took out the small stick zone, but props for finding this band-aid! i'd make sure you won't repeatedly pinch wires with that spring, might cause elec issues.
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Old 08-08-2003, 01:41 PM   #3
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 13060
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Longmont, CO, USA
2000 Impreza 2.5 RSt

Default Sleve

I think I am going to try one of those plastic electrical wire protective sleeves around the entire spring length. I just need to find a smooth one, not the ribbed kind. That would also take care of the rubbing point in Pic 1.
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Old 09-28-2007, 02:31 PM   #4
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 143573
Join Date: Mar 2007
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Virginia
2002 WRX

Default Great Idea!!

This is a great idea. I had been using an elastic cord to accomplish the same thing but it rots over a year, this would be a permanent fix.
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:03 PM   #5
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 13060
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Longmont, CO, USA
2000 Impreza 2.5 RSt

Default $0 fix to sticky clutch pedal

I swapped in a transmission from JDM v8 STI. New Clutchnet clutch kit. New superlite flywheel. New SS line (from the old master). I was looking forward to not needing my extra spring. Well, I was wrong, $5K+ in mods doesn't solve this problem.

So, just as I did 9year ago, I contorted myself under the dash for 2h playing with the length of the master->pedal linkage. Nothing: If you shorten the linkage, the clutch doesn't fully engage. If you make it longer, the clutch sticks to the floor.

So, it's 1:30am, I decide to look at this from a different angle. What is pushing the pedal into the floor ? Some sort of assist spring. That late, it seems like a good idea to remove it. In the back of my mind I had two doubts: 1) Why would the Subaru designers put that in if it is not needed? 2) Is that 1"+ wide assist spring going to shoot me in the eye ?

I told my inner voice to shut up, took out the crow bar and start prying at the pin holding the top of the assist spring to the pedal. (First I pulled off the retainer washer with pliers). 15min of wiggling the pedal and applying pressure to the pin, I had the pin out. Pedal mysteriously was still attached to the assist spring. I pried some more and it came apart. Now, the pedal was loose when not connected to the clutch master. I removed the assist spring and the piece that connected to the pedal. Piece connected to the floor I left there.

I made the master link longest, connected it to the pedal and went on a test drive.
It's near perfect. About 1" travel is required to disengage the clutch. It comes back smoothly as expected. Slipping from 1st is simple. The only drawback is the full range push required to start the car (clutch switch): that requires some level of strength. Overall, you get a pure race car feel (I am guessing).

Next, I will try to adjust the clutch switch.

Thinking back to my old helper spring fix, I now realize that it was simply counteracting the assist. What I don't understand is why the assist spring was stronger then the clutch plate at the bottom of the travel (And that is in two different setups).
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Old 04-27-2012, 08:22 PM   #6
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 318253
Join Date: Apr 2012
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: PA
2002 WRX

Default Pictures

Do you still have pictures of your $3 fix. We are having issues now with it not going into gear when the car is running. The clutch is farily new so we are going to replace the clutch master & slave cylinder and will do this also
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Old 07-15-2017, 07:05 AM   #7
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 177894
Join Date: Apr 2008
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: San Diego
99 2.5 RS


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Old 06-18-2018, 10:10 PM   #8
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 286036
Join Date: Jun 2011
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Portland!!
93 impreza wagon
satin black


Good sir I think you've found my issue
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