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Old 06-02-2018, 12:14 AM   #1
atbwrx
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Default WRX Clutch install +

Wish me luck, I'm going to need it.

Putting in a Competition Clutch Stage 2 with light weight flywheel.

Have some COBB tranny mounts while I'm in there, a Perrin pitch stop and Moore performance blast plates.

And, in a never ending quest to continually Eff me over whenever I try to buy parts from my local Subaru dealer, that thermostat you see to left was what I found when I went to open the throw out bearing box. Good times. I really need to stick with the known good vendors on this site and face the fact that having a Subie dealer less then 5 minutes away just isn't worth it if you continually get incorrect or overpriced parts.

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Last edited by atbwrx; 06-07-2018 at 09:41 AM.
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Old 06-02-2018, 07:58 AM   #2
ezil71
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Having just done my clutch, if the transmission doesn't separate with moderate force, use a torch on the dowel pins for a few seconds. I wasted an afternoon trying to pull them apart. The dowel pin on one side was rusted and chemically fused. Heat was the only thing that did the trick.
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Old 06-07-2018, 02:20 AM   #3
atbwrx
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There's probably a bunch of posts for clutch replacements already, so I'm not going to post a step by step how to.
Here's a video that provides a good walk through:
I went ahead and listed the steps I went through to drop my tranny and did take pics of some of the steps that I thought would be helpful. I've added in torque specs for reassembly. The torque specs are from various sources, so any seem off let me know and I'll correct it.



This is for a 2014 WRX:

1. Loosen front lug nuts (72.4 ft lbs)
2. Disconnect and remove battery
3. Raise vehicle on jack stands
4. Remove front lug nuts and wheels
5. Unbolt front sway bar drop links from front lower control arms
(I have whiteline swaybars and drop links so I had to unbolt the sway bar mounts to have enough room to remove the droplinks)
6. Unbolt pinch bolt (37 ft. lbs) and separate lower ball joints from lower control arm (See pic)
7. Drain Transmission oil (Torx T70) (32 ft. lbs)
8. Pry and remove axles from transmission
9. Remove Intercooler (I have the PW Verticooler, so I just disconnected the three hoses and left the BOV on it).
10. Remove 14mm bolts holding slave cylinder, set slave out of the way on motor. (27.5 ft. lbs)
11. Disconnect ignition wire from starter
12. Remove starter (12mm bolts) I left the power wires connected and set it on the motor. (37 ft. lbs)
13. Disconnect downstream 02 sensor and remove from down pipe.
14. Support the mid pipe with a jack stand. I have a COBB. (see pic)
15. Remove turbo heat shield
16. Remove 14mm nuts connecting downpipe to turbo and remove down pipe. I have a COBB so no stock heat shields to remove except the one that encloses the driveshaft which should be removed 4 12mm.
17. Index drives shaft to rear diff, remove 4 12mm bolts (23 ft lbs) (See pic)
18. Remove 2 14mm drive shaft bracket bolts (38 ft. lbs)
19. Remove Drive shaft. I used the mid pipe propped up by the jackstand to hold the drive shaft up and keep it from falling after both ends were disconnected. After the drive shaft has been fully disconnected, it can be pulled around the mid pipe and dropped to the floor.
20. Remove the 12mm nut on side tranny stay (13 ft. lbs) under shifter linkage remove the 12 mm vertical bolt (9 ft. lbs) on the top shifter linkage. (See pic)
21. Unplug two plugs (black and gray) on top of transmission by firewall (See pic)
22. Remove 10mm bolt for the transmission ground wire on firewall by pitch stop mount on firewall. (See pic)
23. Set jack under transmission
24. Remove two 17mm bolts (103 ft. lbs - I only went to 80, the bolts felt like they were being over torqued at that point) attaching front tranny crossmember to body, four 14mm bolts (51.6 ft. lbs) attaching rear transmission crossmember to body, and four 14 mm bolts attaching rear transmission housing to cross member.
25. Support front of engine to keep from tilting upon transmission removal. I put a jack stand under the oil pan to hold the motor in place.
26. Remove five 14 mm bolts and two 14 mm nuts (36.9 ft lbs) from bell housing
26. Remove pitch stop and tranny dip stick
27. Unbolt turbo from up pipe. I didn’t do this at first, but the tranny wouldn’t clear it. (See pic)
28. Remove transmission
29. Remove 12mm cover plate bolts (11ft lbs)
30. Remove clutch disc
31. Remove flywheel 14mm (52 ft lbs)
32. Remove clutch fork from Bell housing

REINSTALL REMINDERS
1. CLEAN ALL PARTS WITH BRAKE CLEAN
2. LUBE ALL CONTACT POINTS ON SHIFTER FORK, SHIFT FORK MOUNTING ROD, SLAVE ACTUATING ROD, THROW OUT BEARING, TRANNY SNOUT, AND INPUT SHAFT SPLINES
3. USE THREAD LOCKER ON FLYWHEEL AND COVER PLATE BOLTS
4. REFILL TRANSMISSION

Last edited by atbwrx; 06-18-2018 at 12:48 AM.
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Old 06-07-2018, 02:24 AM   #4
atbwrx
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Here’s what it took for me to separate the ball joints.
Remove the pinch bolt. Pound a screw drive into the slot to spread open the hub. Spray heavily with liquid wrench (I use Aerokroil). Use a mini sledge to pound on the drop link mount with a 2x4. Also, it helps if you use a jack under the brake disc to jack up the lower control arm so it's horizontal, that keeps the ball joint from hanging up inside the knuckle and also keeps the suspension from absorbing the shock when you strike the lower control arm.



I left the mid pipe installed, and just supported the front with a jack stand. A bonus to doing this is that the mid pipe will hold up the drive shaft when you disconnect it, and then you can just pull the drive shaft around the mid pipe to drop it.


Don’t know if its required, but nothing to lose in indexing the drive shaft to the rear diff to make sure that it goes back together clocked the same as it when it was taken apart.


I unbolted the shifter linkage at these two points but otherwise kept the rest hooked up to the shifter.


Here’s where you disconnect the tranny harness, on the top of the tranny. Leave the wiring connectors on the side of the tranny alone, you won’t need to mess with them. Also, disconnect the tranny ground at the firewall. I tried unbolting it on the tranny side first, but access wasn’t very good.



I was very lucky in that the tranny slid off the engine no problem when unbolted. But, it only came off the motor a couple inches and then froze. It turned out that the bell housing was hitting the turbo. If I dropped the tail of the tranny so the bell housing would clear the turbo, the tranny input shaft would hang up in the clutch and the tranny wouldn’t slide out.


So I removed the bolts holding the turbo to the up pipe , used the tranny jack to jack the tranny up into the tunnel, and a floor jack to jack up the front of the engine, this brought engine and tranny in line. I then pried the turbo up off the up pipe and used the pry bar to separate the tranny from the engine and the tranny slid right off the motor.
So here’s a pic with the tranny dropped. The tranny jack is pretty tall, too tall to get the tranny out from under the car. Going to try to install the blast plates with the tranny under the car and still on the jack. That will save a lot of time if I can do it. Plenty of room to install the new flywheel and clutch, so no problem there.

Last edited by atbwrx; 06-07-2018 at 09:42 AM.
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Old 06-09-2018, 03:01 AM   #5
atbwrx
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Was able to do a little more tear down today.

Check out the grunged out throw out bearing:


The throw out bearing had seen better days, hereís the comparison of old vs. new.

Did a quick comparison of the Competition Clutch Stage 2 with the stocker.
The CC2 clutch disc dwarfs the stocker. Check out all the bluing on the stock hub. Thatís what 345 ft. lbs of torque will do to a stock clutch:


Likewise, the CC2 pressure plate has much more surface area than the stocker:


The flywheel is lighter than stock, but not a total light weight, heavy enough not to throw any codes (or so Iím told):
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Old 06-09-2018, 10:40 AM   #6
Charlie-III
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In the past, 12-13lbs was as light as you wanted to go on a Subaru and avoid false misfires. Add in light pullies and you could be real borderline.

Hope you clean the trans snout and input shaft splines. Dry fit everything, make sure the ToB and friction plate slide easy, then some lube on assembly.
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Old 06-10-2018, 11:58 PM   #7
atbwrx
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RallysportDirect shows the flywheel weight at 13.7lbs, so hopefully okay.

I cleaned up everything, and was surprised at how much clutch grease was all over everything. What was interesting is it looked like the grease becomes hardened with age, maybe heat?. There was some on the clutch fork ball pivot and in the dimple where the slave push rod goes that had become hardened like plastic. I'm actually using a Porsche lubrication product on reassembly that works well keeps its consistency. Hopefully will work better then what was on there.

I did a dry fit and everything seems good. I'd heard that there were some issues with competition clutch products not always being consistent, so I took a straight edge to the flywheel and disc and all is flat. Flywheel, clutch and pressure plate are installed, blast plates on tranny are next.
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Old 06-12-2018, 03:42 AM   #8
atbwrx
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I was able to install the Moore Performance Blast Plates with the tranny still on the tranny jack. Very straight forward install: remove four bolts, install blast plates with provided four bolts. The torque specs are stamped into the blast plate. Easy.




And here's the money shot on the installed Competition Clutch Stage 2 clutch and pressure plate.




Clean both thoroughly with brake clean. Used blue locktight on the flywheel bolts (52.8 ft lbs) Make sure you torque in a star pattern. I snugged everything down, then did the first torque to 26, then 52.8 ft lbs. I then lubed the input shaft on the tranny, and ran the clutch disc up and down the shaft to disburse the spline grease. I wiped off the excess grease on the clutch disc, and then used the disc centering tool to hold the disc against the flywheel. I sprayed the pressure plate friction surface with brake clean and wiped with cloth, then installed onto the flywheel, again with blue Loctite and star pattern. It is very important on the pressure plate, that you only turn the bolts in about a third of the way at a time. If you tighten a bolt all the way down, you will actually lift the opposite side of the pressure plate off of the supporting pins in the flywheel. This is because as the pressure plate is torqued down it starts to compress the pressure plate. If you bolt one side all the way down, you could inadvertently damage the pressure plate.
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Old 06-17-2018, 06:33 PM   #9
atbwrx
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Got her all back together, and was met with this racket:



In looking at my picture from the post above, I'm wondering if the new pressure plate is hitting that black plate that is supposed to keep debris out of the clutch area?

Okay, put the car back in the air, grabbed a big *#[email protected] screw driver and pried the crap out of the dust shield:


The sound of rumbling Boxster motor:

Last edited by atbwrx; 09-07-2018 at 02:38 AM.
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Old 06-18-2018, 01:00 AM   #10
atbwrx
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First Drive Impressions - Competition Clutch Stage 2 with Lightweight Steel flywheel

I was very hesitant to get this set up, there are a lot of poor reviews online with complaints about harsh break in, long term clutch chatter, smell of burning clutch, not streetable clutch pressure, etc. But my tuner said to go with it, so I did.

My first test drive was awesome. Pedal pressure is just a little firmer than stock. If I rev to 2K before engaging the clutch there is little to no chatter. No burning clutch smell yet.

I think the majority of the issues have been with the STi pull type clutch. I can say, at least on my first drive, the WRX push version of this clutch works great. Engagement is great, I can tell that its going to pull like a mother once broken in . Right now, keeping it below 3K rpms, driving like a grand ma, and going real easy on engagement. If it gets better from here, its going to be a great clutch. I'll update after break in is complete.
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Old 06-21-2018, 08:05 AM   #11
13WRexx
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Have you been hearing more noise when engine braking with the new flywheel? I just had the stock replacement clutch and lightweight flywheel kit from competition clutch installed yesterday and on the way home I noticed almost a grinding noise in the higher gears, which from what I understand is normal with a lightened flywheel. Completely goes away if you push the clutch or apply any throttle what so ever, just curious if you noticed the same thing.

Last edited by 13WRexx; 06-21-2018 at 08:19 AM.
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Old 06-24-2018, 12:58 PM   #12
atbwrx
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@13WRexx-Yes, it was a real "now what?" moment. But in doing a search it looks like its normal for the light weight flywheel.

Just means you should have your foot on the gas more. Lol.
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Old 08-20-2018, 05:09 PM   #13
drunkyoda
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how is this clutch working for you? I am just about to buy the same one.
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Old 08-21-2018, 11:38 AM   #14
WhiteslutSTi
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Did you also adjust your clutch pedal inside the car after install?
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Old 09-07-2018, 02:33 AM   #15
atbwrx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drunkyoda View Post
how is this clutch working for you? I am just about to buy the same one.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteslutSTi View Post
Did you also adjust your clutch pedal inside the car after install?
2500 miles on it, and it was working great. I would get a little bit of judder about every tenth start. Would get a little burnt clutch smell when parallel parking. Pedal pressure was a little stiffer than stock, not much. The clutch would engage a little closer to the floor then stock. The clutch was strong and had quick engagement.

Then my throw out bearing starting making noise when I would put the pedal all the way to the floor. Was not happy about that. I did not use the bearing that came with the clutch kit, but went to Subaru and got an OEM after reading about so many premature throw out bearing failures. I couldn't believe it, when I installed the clutch slave and rod during the clutch install, there was a little bit of play between the rod and the clutch fork, so I thought I was good.

LESSON TO BE LEARNED: CHECK THE CLUTCH ROD CLEARANCE AT THE CLUTCH FORK AFTER THE CLUTCH BREAK IN PERIOD (500-1000 MILES).

I checked mine last week, and something had changed. The clutch slave piston was pushing the rod hard into the clutch fork. This means that the clutch fork was pushing the throw out bearing into the pressure plate even when my foot was not on the clutch pedal.

When installed with the new clutch, the clutch slave bolted straight down onto the bell housing. I didn't have to compress the clutch slave piston to make it go together, and the pedal didn’t need any adjustment.

I went ahead and unpinned the clutch pedal linkage to see if the rod in the footwell above the accelerator would move forward or back from the pressure in the hydraulic lines. It didn’t.

So I went ahead and unbolted the clutch slave, and it popped forward about 3/8”.



No doubt that even with the clutch pedal all the way up there was enough hydraulic pressure to cause the clutch rod to push the clutch fork onto the pressure plate causing contact with the throw out bearing.

So I decided to shorten the clutch rod about 3/8” for kicks and see what would happen.



I reinstalled, and there was once again a little play between the slave cylinder and the clutch rod, alleviating the pressure against the clutch fork.


Went for a test drive. What a major difference. The pedal pressure is as light as stock. No juddering at all, and no clutch burnt smell when parallel parking. The only downside is the clutch release is just a little closer to the floor than before, but as the clutch wears that will change. And, no more throw out bearing noise. Hopefully dodged a bullet on that one and there isn’t too much premature wear on it. Was not looking forward to dropping the tranny to replace it.

Happy with the clutch, and would recommend for any WRX owner.

Last edited by atbwrx; 09-07-2018 at 03:03 AM.
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