Power Steering delete thread -- Depower your rack!

[binny]

I'm considering doing this - anyone running decent rubber with this mod ?

I have 255's at the moment with 7 degrees of castor in a GC8 turning when stationary (car off) is "quite" difficult how much difference without the fluid in the system ??

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[RavensFan7]

Originally Posted by binny

I'm considering doing this - anyone running decent rubber with this mod ?

I have 255's at the moment with 7 degrees of castor in a GC8 turning when stationary (car off) is "quite" difficult how much difference without the fluid in the system ??

The widest I had were 215's that ran a bit wide (think star specs)....but nothing as wide as a 255.

There is quite a difference without the fluid, lines, and pump. Definitely noticeable. Being 100% stationary will always suck with no p/s, but parking lot speeds are very tolerable if the delete is done right.

How much does your car weigh?
Any weight reduction off the front end helps.

[binny]

It's about 1240kg (not sure how that converts) no real weight reduction (just the battery moved, aircon deleted and random brackets) I will most likely ditch the brake vacuum assist at the same time while the engine is out so a couple of kilos there as well

[kyleburlish]

Originally Posted by binny

I'm considering doing this - anyone running decent rubber with this mod ?

I have 255's at the moment with 7 degrees of castor in a GC8 turning when stationary (car off) is "quite" difficult how much difference without the fluid in the system ??

I have an STI swapped RS so I have the 06 STI rack. Super sticky toyo proxies 245. I have been running just the belt bypass. Its sweet at highway speeds and like 20-30 mph and higher. But slow speeds suck. Parallel parking isnt even worth the effort. This weekend I am looping the lines and greasing the system. We will see how that goes.

[binny]

Originally Posted by kyleburlish

I have an STI swapped RS so I have the 06 STI rack. Super sticky toyo proxies 245. I have been running just the belt bypass. Its sweet at highway speeds and like 20-30 mph and higher. But slow speeds suck. Parallel parking isnt even worth the effort. This weekend I am looping the lines and greasing the system. We will see how that goes.

Cheers for the update, I'm going for it anyway (have the engine out now and will drop the rack and delete the power steering) I will drop a few tyre sizes though probably go for 235's

[2.5itim]

I'm glad I found this thread, thank you all for the advice. Got my rack dropped today and tomorrow will get the loop done, greased up and reinstalled.
I won't be able to drive it till I get my engine build finished but at least it'll be done and waiting.

[binny]

How do you get the quill out ? I thought it would just slip out after taking the housing off the rack (the two 6mm Allen head bolts)

(1998 WRX rack)

[rdrz14]

I'm pumped to try this! I have the engine out and may as well drop the rack while it's all apart. It's a weekend car that's parked on the street in the city... anyone think it's a bad idea since I have to parallel park it at home?

[scubieroo32]

So I have a 2nd gen legacy. I want to swap a 1st gen steering rack on it in the future.

Do you think it would be a good idea to do the PS delete when i get the new steering rack since i would be buying it new and it probably will not come with any fluid in it?

I would assume that it would screw the new rack up but im not too sure

[RavensFan7]

Originally Posted by scubieroo32

So I have a 2nd gen legacy. I want to swap a 1st gen steering rack on it in the future.



Do you think it would be a good idea to do the PS delete when i get the new steering rack since i would be buying it new and it probably will not come with any fluid in it?



I would assume that it would screw the new rack up but im not too sure

Slightly confused on what you're asking.

Are you concerned that the rack will be essentially dry, and just tossing in some grease won't be enough?

I can't speak for a brand new OEM rack....but I did buy a new reman unit from rockauto, and it already had some PS fluid inside when it arrived. Or some type of oil, because it was leaking out into the box.

I think you'd be fine just globbing in some grease, spinning the pinion gear by hand a bunch of times, then add some more grease. Rinse and repeat until you feel comfortable.

[binny]

Originally Posted by RavensFan7

The widest I had were 215's that ran a bit wide (think star specs)....but nothing as wide as a 255.

There is quite a difference without the fluid, lines, and pump. Definitely noticeable. Being 100% stationary will always suck with no p/s, but parking lot speeds are very tolerable if the delete is done right.

How much does your car weigh?
Any weight reduction off the front end helps.

well I've done it - with the engine out and 255's it's not as bad as I thought (stationary obviously)

I guess I'll see how much harder it is with the engine in

[theleveler2600]

OK Stupid question...

If I do the simple, bypass the pump with the smaller belt method (RavensFan7's "option 2") and decide it's any improvement and/or I like the feel for spirited driving, would it be bad for my car/rack, if I switch back and forth for several track days? (ie: Use the PS length belt and have PS for every day driving, and then switch to the short no-PS belt for track days, and then back again)

[binny]

Originally Posted by theleveler2600

OK Stupid question...

If I do the simple, bypass the pump with the smaller belt method (RavensFan7's "option 2") and decide it's any improvement and/or I like the feel for spirited driving, would it be bad for my car/rack, if I switch back and forth for several track days? (ie: Use the PS length belt and have PS for every day driving, and then switch to the short no-PS belt for track days, and then back again)

You won't damage anything - however as the system (Rack & Pump) is still full of fluid you have to move the fluid + steer the car so won't "feel" what it will actually be like

probably the best way without draining would be on some winding roads that don't need any lock to lock kind of steering inputs (as you wont be pushing the fluid through the rack as fast)

[RavensFan7]

Originally Posted by theleveler2600

OK Stupid question...

If I do the simple, bypass the pump with the smaller belt method (RavensFan7's "option 2") and decide it's any improvement and/or I like the feel for spirited driving, would it be bad for my car/rack, if I switch back and forth for several track days? (ie: Use the PS length belt and have PS for every day driving, and then switch to the short no-PS belt for track days, and then back again)

Binny said it well. Just swapping to the belt will be more effort than the full delete. I can't imagine there would be any issues changing back and forth between the belts though.

What kind of "track days"?

...because I always figured autox would be incredibly hard with no PS. The lower speeds and quick tighter turns would be exhausting. Going lock to lock quickly would be difficult.

Road course track days would probably be easier to manage.

Originally Posted by binny

well I've done it - with the engine out and 255's it's not as bad as I thought (stationary obviously)

I guess I'll see how much harder it is with the engine in

Awesome! Definitely update how it feels once it's driving.

I'm getting ready to do this to a second car. Picked up a '98 L a few months ago and it's time to start shedding some weight.

[Titter]

swapping the belt is only meant to be a quick test for a day or two to see if you can manage without power steering before comitting to a full delete since a proper delete is a one-way street.

[theleveler2600]

Thanks for the advice guys!! This would be for road course tracks for me, but it sounds like it's not worth it and/or too much steering effort without doing it right

[junior1023]

For option 3, would it be better to turn the wheel several times after removing the lines, to let fluid out before looping them or loop then to keep all the fluid in?

[RavensFan7]

Originally Posted by junior1023

For option 3, would it be better to turn the wheel several times after removing the lines, to let fluid out before looping them or loop then to keep all the fluid in?

If you're just looping the lines, it's best to keep some/most of the fluid in....obviously you don't want it to get too dry. Not that you would get every drop out of fluid out anyway, but the oil already has a harder time clinging to the gears inside....so the more fluid there, the less chance of metal to metal.

Even fully drained it would likely take a while to fully seize up (if ever), but could still cause more wear than normal. Either keep the fluid, or do the full thing and stuff it with wheel bearing grease.

[bjm]

Is there any way to get the photos from this thread? All I get is a Photobucket message saying "please upgrade your account"

[Titter]

photobucket recently toasted all 3rd party links. users have to pay to be able to link pics to forums.

[bjm]

I found if you right click and hit open in new window I can see all the images.

[RavensFan7]

It's been a long time since I used Photobucket, so I figured these pics would still be good. I'll re-host them on my Flickr soon. Might be a week or 2 because my laptop's hard drive died the other day as well.

[joelsti]

Originally Posted by 68Cadillac

You do need to loop those two ports together, unless....


you cut the hydraulic diaphragm off the rack shaft (pink arrows). If you remove that diaphragm you won't get the air pressure build up in one chamber and a vacuum in the other chamber when you try to turn. By looping the two chambers together you give all the pressure somewhere to go while also keeping the system sealed from the environment.

Is there a way too see the pictures on what do i need to cut. I have everything apart just want too make sure ill cut the right thing

[splitthebreak]

I plan on doing this with my rack since it and the pump are leaking on my 04 STi. Should I replace the outter seals when I do this or since there won't be fluid in it anymore, I shouldn't bother?

[remski]

Well.. a word of advice.
I've de-powered my rack and its undriveable.
05 sti rack in a somewhat light weight GC chassis.

Its so bad that I will be slapping the pump back on or going with electric pump if I can find a small one.