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Old 05-13-2018, 07:58 AM   #101
oldpunk
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All cars break and have issues. My neighbor is a service writer at a Honda dealer, he would be out of a job if they never had issues. My wife's CRV has had more issues than any vehicle I've ever owned and I'm 57 so have owned many different brands.
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Old 05-13-2018, 05:27 PM   #102
garyf2132
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Originally Posted by YungBoba View Post
Not to mention that most people only post something or speak up when they have something to complain about. For every Subaru engine that has blown up prematurely, there are 10 more out there that are running perfectly fine with no issues. The only difference is that those owners are out there happily driving their cars and not posting online about it, which is why it may seem that these cars are unreliable at a quick glance online.
Isn’t that one of the reasons these forums exist to report issues or problems to seek help or assistance from other owners who are “knowledgeable”? Every car does have some kind of issues, but a new car with only 7k miles to have the issues I’m experiencing is too soon. If it was 50k miles or 100k fine but only 7k? This is also the second brand new Subaru vehicle I’ve owned that has required major repairs. What does that say?
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Old 05-13-2018, 05:30 PM   #103
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Originally Posted by cerbomark View Post
Depends on WRONG OIL, how far off from the recommendations ??
I’m thinking with my oil change the dealer put the wrong type oil in. The WRX calls for synthetic right? What if they put conventional or a different grade?
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Old 05-14-2018, 03:51 AM   #104
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I’m thinking with my oil change the dealer put the wrong type oil in. The WRX calls for synthetic right? What if they put conventional or a different grade?
Subaru dealership service dept are required to use Subaru brand Synthetic motor oil provided by Subaru, which are sold by pallet in barrel of 4, 0W-20 for NA or 5W-30 for turbo. You can ask then to show you the barrel.
In case if conventional oil is put your car, it's either or both a commit of fraud and a blatant violation of dealership's agreement with Subaru Of America, sue them regardless.
(there was a class action lawsuit with a German brand dealership because of conventional oil use, I got 2 free synthetic oil change and a car check up.)
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Old 05-14-2018, 12:55 PM   #105
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Well for the last two days it's been raining non-stop here in Florida but still humid and hot, but not too hot yet.... Car had a rough start one day where the idle seemed higher than normal on the cold start but after warming up it was fine... or seemed fine at least.
Next day rolls around.... about 8:30 AM I go to start it.... it really did not want to start and since I bought the car I've only put on 2K miles as I bought it used from a Benz dealership. I've never beaten on it... or anything like that... I have the ETS intake and Cobb Stage 1 OTS tune which makes the car run much better than the stock ECU setting.... Now I know it has nothing to do with the tune based on I don't drive the car hard like a lot of guys and before I were to take it to the dealer I'd unmarry the Cobb and put back the stock ECU just for peace of mind. However why would it barely want to start? It took me like 8 tries for this thing to kick on and up until it rained non-stop like this I had ZERO issues with this car and was loving it. I even have a upgraded Whiteline Sway bar on the rear and new tires...Nitto Invos which are excellent. Why would it have a hard time starting? The battery is fine... once the car got whatever out of the system it seemed to run fine but I don't like this in the back of my mind all the time. Also the car blew out some white smoke initially after I did get it started. After it's warmed up the smoke is gone and nothing seems wrong. Worst case is I take it to the dealer and they say we can't replicate the issue... good luck.... That's my greatest fear because I've seen those posts floating around and those are scary.
NO CEL either. I looked into my Cobb AP and saw nothing. So if it's not popping any CEL how the heck is anyone supposed to know what the issue is?
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Old 05-14-2018, 02:23 PM   #106
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Originally Posted by alphaproject View Post
Well for the last two days it's been raining non-stop here in Florida but still humid and hot, but not too hot yet.... Car had a rough start one day where the idle seemed higher than normal on the cold start but after warming up it was fine... or seemed fine at least.
Next day rolls around.... about 8:30 AM I go to start it.... it really did not want to start and since I bought the car I've only put on 2K miles as I bought it used from a Benz dealership. I've never beaten on it... or anything like that... I have the ETS intake and Cobb Stage 1 OTS tune which makes the car run much better than the stock ECU setting.... Now I know it has nothing to do with the tune based on I don't drive the car hard like a lot of guys and before I were to take it to the dealer I'd unmarry the Cobb and put back the stock ECU just for peace of mind. However why would it barely want to start? It took me like 8 tries for this thing to kick on and up until it rained non-stop like this I had ZERO issues with this car and was loving it. I even have a upgraded Whiteline Sway bar on the rear and new tires...Nitto Invos which are excellent. Why would it have a hard time starting? The battery is fine... once the car got whatever out of the system it seemed to run fine but I don't like this in the back of my mind all the time. Also the car blew out some white smoke initially after I did get it started. After it's warmed up the smoke is gone and nothing seems wrong. Worst case is I take it to the dealer and they say we can't replicate the issue... good luck.... That's my greatest fear because I've seen those posts floating around and those are scary.
NO CEL either. I looked into my Cobb AP and saw nothing. So if it's not popping any CEL how the heck is anyone supposed to know what the issue is?
just relax.. it could be moisture (water) in the intake, plugs dirty(from that moisture) or running the car rich (COB OTS kinda does that) and super short trips, battery not fully charged (look at the battery and charging posts). Maybe you need to drive the car hard and clean out any lingering residues.. I don't think I have every owned a car that didn't stumble on startup at some point. This might have been a combo of small things. I would say if it doesn't happen multiple times I would say it is all good. you said you bought it used. Do you have any history of the car? was it ever modded and was any of the modification removed (back to factory?) or are you running TGV or EGR deletes without know it and not tuning for it? or anything else that could get past a quick eye inspection? enjoy your car and don't worry so much. Cheers and good luck
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Old 05-14-2018, 04:05 PM   #107
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I'm trying to stay positive and no the guy that had it before me had the car bone stock.

He didn't even have the car aligned before I bought it. LOL.

I basically bought it, got new tires, alignment.... intake, Cobb AP, and whiteline Rear Sway bar. Then I was actually thinking about going stage 2, decided against it.....then boom this strange issue. I do take frequent short trips...sometimes 1/2 mile..... then another 1/2 mile... I don't drive very far very often.
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Old 05-14-2018, 04:39 PM   #108
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Originally Posted by alphaproject View Post
I'm trying to stay positive and no the guy that had it before me had the car bone stock.

He didn't even have the car aligned before I bought it. LOL.

I basically bought it, got new tires, alignment.... intake, Cobb AP, and whiteline Rear Sway bar. Then I was actually thinking about going stage 2, decided against it.....then boom this strange issue. I do take frequent short trips...sometimes 1/2 mile..... then another 1/2 mile... I don't drive very far very often.
post a datalog from your AP, and post in the datalog thread. The guys there may be able to help you assess your issue.
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Old 05-14-2018, 04:46 PM   #109
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post a datalog from your AP, and post in the datalog thread. The guys there may be able to help you assess your issue.
I logged it for a short trip but I have no idea on how to upload that data as I've never done it before but I have 2 weeks of warranty left so if I can make it there.... It's going to the dealership on Wednesday.
They said they will take me home and offer a loaner if they have a major issue or something like that.

Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act hopefully won't have to come into play but all I have in there is an aftermarket airbox from ETS which is basically just for sound as it probably makes little to no power difference.
That's my only fear as I can't put the stock one back on because it's gone.
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Old 05-14-2018, 05:16 PM   #110
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Originally Posted by alphaproject View Post
I logged it for a short trip but I have no idea on how to upload that data as I've never done it before but I have 2 weeks of warranty left so if I can make it there.... It's going to the dealership on Wednesday.
They said they will take me home and offer a loaner if they have a major issue or something like that.

Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act hopefully won't have to come into play but all I have in there is an aftermarket airbox from ETS which is basically just for sound as it probably makes little to no power difference.
That's my only fear as I can't put the stock one back on because it's gone.
Use the AP stock parameters for logs and add command fueling, log 5-10 seconds before a 3rd gear WOT pull, save results to AP, upload to datazapp.com

I hope the dealership you bought it from isn't a piece of ****. If there are any serious engine related issues, SOA will likely deny the warranty claim, with all the parts you have on your car. How many miles on the car? Did you purchase an extended warranty? Is the OTS tune you are running support the aftermarket intake you have currently on the car?
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Old 05-14-2018, 05:38 PM   #111
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Originally Posted by alphaproject View Post
I'm trying to stay positive and no the guy that had it before me had the car bone stock.

He didn't even have the car aligned before I bought it. LOL.

I basically bought it, got new tires, alignment.... intake, Cobb AP, and whiteline Rear Sway bar. Then I was actually thinking about going stage 2, decided against it.....then boom this strange issue. I do take frequent short trips...sometimes 1/2 mile..... then another 1/2 mile... I don't drive very far very often.
So if I m reading you right, the issue started after the intake was added. That would be my first concern then. Maybe as simple as something not be put back together right.
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Old 05-14-2018, 06:34 PM   #112
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Originally Posted by alphaproject View Post
Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act hopefully won't have to come into play but all I have in there is an aftermarket airbox from ETS which is basically just for sound as it probably makes little to no power difference.
That's my only fear as I can't put the stock one back on because it's gone.


Please let us all know how that works out for you. Was that AP tune you flashed on there also just for sound and made little to no difference in power? Warranty fraud....... nice! You sound like a real upstanding person who has no problem taking responsibility for their own actions!
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Old 05-15-2018, 09:09 AM   #113
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Originally Posted by alphaproject View Post
I'm trying to stay positive and no the guy that had it before me had the car bone stock.

He didn't even have the car aligned before I bought it. LOL.

I basically bought it, got new tires, alignment.... intake, Cobb AP, and whiteline Rear Sway bar. Then I was actually thinking about going stage 2, decided against it.....then boom this strange issue. I do take frequent short trips...sometimes 1/2 mile..... then another 1/2 mile... I don't drive very far very often.
You said battery is fine, How many Amp?
1st, your car have problem starting, so starting system trouble. AP/intake no role in starting.
2nd, idle high smoke much by engine flooding.
Get your reading from a battery tester, try ask for a starter check from who or where you receive your voltage reading, good luck.
After a flash, ID on your ECU no longer matches. Dealership who report on warranty claim will not get approval.
You can try 3rd party warranty providers, money up front.

Last edited by cky625; 05-15-2018 at 03:45 PM.
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Old 05-15-2018, 01:03 PM   #114
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I read this as it s cranking but not starting that s why I d go back to his mod... something left not connected be my guess still.
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Old 05-15-2018, 03:54 PM   #115
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Warranty Fraud, lol...

Maybe technically you think it's a big deal.... but I've seen guys blow engines and get warranty work done. I'm talking about such a tiny issue and guys freak out.

First off today the car ran perfect so since there is nothing wrong for the last 1.5 days going to the dealer would be pointless so it's been cancelled.

I bought it used and my warranty was so near the end I put a few tiny mods on it.

This could be literally nothing....just me panicking because of the warranty about to end. I don't think someone running a Stage 1 OTS tune should be denied a warranty because mostly the OTS tune just manages the throttle better. As far as HP gains I'm sure it's minimal. The car just runs better than the stock tune. Everyone complains about the stock tune because it boosts really fast then dies off, which I agree... it does. The OTS tune I use just manages the throttle better and boost in later RPMS.... that's if you don't know that....The AP tune I use is the ETS/Mishimoto tune... it's basically for intakes that don't require tunes. ETS said it does NOT require tuning meaning it's just like the stock box but sounds more open with a better filter.

I only put on the airbox/intake... done by a pro shop. They also did a nameless exhaust install / muffler delete. Then my last mod was the Whiteline Rear Sway bar 22mm. By no means am I a drive it like I stole it guy since the car is 100% paid off... I need the car.

I think that Subaru saying they won't warranty a car that was modified by the ECU is pretty lame, especially Stage 1. Now if you mess into Stage 2, yea... I understand all bets are off. You start messing with the cats.... And you have to ignore emissions and such.... I almost was thinking about getting a downpipe and such and using the Cobb Stage 2 tune but... like I said... then I had that issue which seemed to work itself out. It started today as if nothing had ever happened.
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Old 05-15-2018, 04:14 PM   #116
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Warranty Fraud, lol...

Maybe technically you think it's a big deal.... but I've seen guys blow engines and get warranty work done. I'm talking about such a tiny issue and guys freak out.

First off today the car ran perfect so since there is nothing wrong for the last 1.5 days going to the dealer would be pointless so it's been cancelled.

I bought it used and my warranty was so near the end I put a few tiny mods on it.

This could be literally nothing....just me panicking because of the warranty about to end. I don't think someone running a Stage 1 OTS tune should be denied a warranty because mostly the OTS tune just manages the throttle better. As far as HP gains I'm sure it's minimal. The car just runs better than the stock tune. Everyone complains about the stock tune because it boosts really fast then dies off, which I agree... it does. The OTS tune I use just manages the throttle better and boost in later RPMS.... that's if you don't know that....The AP tune I use is the ETS/Mishimoto tune... it's basically for intakes that don't require tunes. ETS said it does NOT require tuning meaning it's just like the stock box but sounds more open with a better filter.

I only put on the airbox/intake... done by a pro shop. They also did a nameless exhaust install / muffler delete. Then my last mod was the Whiteline Rear Sway bar 22mm. By no means am I a drive it like I stole it guy since the car is 100% paid off... I need the car.

I think that Subaru saying they won't warranty a car that was modified by the ECU is pretty lame, especially Stage 1. Now if you mess into Stage 2, yea... I understand all bets are off. You start messing with the cats.... And you have to ignore emissions and such.... I almost was thinking about getting a downpipe and such and using the Cobb Stage 2 tune but... like I said... then I had that issue which seemed to work itself out. It started today as if nothing had ever happened.

You're spewing diarrhea out of your mouth. You have no clue how the warranty works. The dealership can't deny the warranty. Subaru of America will be the ones to deny the claim of warranty with a smile on their face. Any tampering with the ECU, whether you do stage 1/stage 2 (w/e that means), and that's a direct link to your engine blowing, they will likely deny the claim. Reason being? People like you that put an intake, without getting the proper tune, and running an OTS map, and claim that "Subaru's cars are unreliable" after blowing the engine.

You will absolutely have problems if you run an OTS map without the required intake. Get an e-tune/pro tune, or run the risk of problems down the road.

Literally if you do anything aftermarket to the car, and it directly correlates with the issue, then they will likely deny the claim for warranty.

If you don't believe me check this thread.
https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=240471
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Old 05-20-2018, 01:13 AM   #117
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Warranty Fraud, lol...

Maybe technically you think it's a big deal.... but I've seen guys blow engines and get warranty work done. I'm talking about such a tiny issue and guys freak out.

First off today the car ran perfect so since there is nothing wrong for the last 1.5 days going to the dealer would be pointless so it's been cancelled.

I bought it used and my warranty was so near the end I put a few tiny mods on it.

This could be literally nothing....just me panicking because of the warranty about to end. I don't think someone running a Stage 1 OTS tune should be denied a warranty because mostly the OTS tune just manages the throttle better. As far as HP gains I'm sure it's minimal. The car just runs better than the stock tune. Everyone complains about the stock tune because it boosts really fast then dies off, which I agree... it does. The OTS tune I use just manages the throttle better and boost in later RPMS.... that's if you don't know that....The AP tune I use is the ETS/Mishimoto tune... it's basically for intakes that don't require tunes.
I work dealership sales, I can tell you this. We can sell used WRX with flashed ECU(came from Subaru auctions), but it cannot be a Certified PreOwn so no warranties, however service contract(extended warranty)can still be added/sold, just pay the fee, you will be covered.
Currently only SPT and STI(www.sti.jp/en) parts/mod is approved, meaning if you use STI group N parts, STI will provide user support(engine management)and warranty on parts and applied car together.
OK, so your concern should be why mishimoto parts does not provide user support and and why the available user support cobb OTS engine management does not get approval from Subaru and provide warranty on their application(the car) similar to the complete solution STI provide on their race car.
Answer: they will, keep your fingers cross.
Now, pay extra for factory extend warranty is the only way to go.
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Old 05-20-2018, 01:41 AM   #118
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Currently only SPT and STI(www.sti.jp/en) parts/mod is approved, meaning if you use STI group N parts, STI will provide user support(engine management)and warranty on parts and applied car together.
OK, so your concern should be why mishimoto parts does not provide user support and and why the available user support cobb OTS engine management does not get approval from Subaru and provide warranty on their application(the car) similar to the complete solution STI provide on their race car.
Answer: they will, keep your fingers cross.
Now, pay extra for factory extend warranty is the only way to go.
1.What Engine Management will STI provide if you buy an SPT intake?
2. Mishimoto provides a warranty for their parts, are you wondering why they don't warranty engines their parts go on? That's pretty self explanatory.
3. Lol, what tuning company out there do you know of supports and gets the approval OEM before releasing OTS maps and tuning solutions? How did you come to the conclusion that they will get approval at any point in the future for their OTS maps to be considered safe for widespread use and backed up by Subaru warranty?

4. What ****ing drugs and/or alcohol did you consume prior to making this diarrhea of a post?
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Old 05-20-2018, 09:10 AM   #119
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1.What Engine Management will STI provide if you buy an SPT intake?
2. Mishimoto provides a warranty for their parts, are you wondering why they don't warranty engines their parts go on? That's pretty self explanatory.
3. Lol, what tuning company out there do you know of supports and gets the approval OEM before releasing OTS maps and tuning solutions? How did you come to the conclusion that they will get approval at any point in the future for their OTS maps to be considered safe for widespread use and backed up by Subaru warranty?

4. What ****ing drugs and/or alcohol did you consume prior to making this diarrhea of a post?
1. ECU stock STI (2004-2007), SPT is a bit old.
2. I mean mishimoto could have base maps for their own mod, right? No, because, they don't make access port.
3. Type RA, revise ECU, by STI does it count as tune?
In reality, STI's intake, Subaru will handle its recall, but clearly stated that Subaru is not liable for any part of it.
"https://www.sti.jp/en/news/notice/20111020.html".
Back to AP, OTS map. Keep your finger crossed for their answer.
Q: Is it possible to cooperate with other company's products?
A: Since we do not carry out the test with the co-arrival of other company's products, we can not answer for adaptability.
"https://www.sti.jp/parts/faq.html#qa9"

My point is to convince alphaproject warranty are coverages that pays for specific parts and labor and it comes with a price.

Unmarried AP can restoring ECU back to factory state, with matching CID, CVN, only number of key start will reset to 0. Remember to unmarried before service.

4. It's party weekend so anything hard enough. Happy weekend. :-)

Last edited by cky625; 05-20-2018 at 09:17 AM.
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Old 05-20-2018, 09:49 AM   #120
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Wat am I even reading
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Old 05-21-2018, 01:01 AM   #121
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Originally Posted by alphaproject View Post
I think that Subaru saying they won't warranty a car that was modified by the ECU is pretty lame, especially Stage 1. Now if you mess into Stage 2, yea... I understand all bets are off. You start messing with the cats.... And you have to ignore emissions and such.... I almost was thinking about getting a downpipe and such and using the Cobb Stage 2 tune but... like I said... then I had that issue which seemed to work itself out. It started today as if nothing had ever happened.
It is understandable for Subaru to deny a warranty claim on a Stage 1 car, ECU's do so much. Very easy to program an ecu to destroy an engine upon first startup, cause horrible emissions, run rich enough to damage cats etc.
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Old 05-23-2018, 10:39 PM   #122
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Originally Posted by whiplash willy View Post
Was your your AC compressor and Blower actually bad, or did they just make noise. It is "normal" for our blower motors to be loud and make a ticking sound. Also, or Valeo AC Compressors are also quite noisy. Was your TOB really bad, or just making noise for the first few min, like they all do.

I have several minor and common annoyance "issues" with my 2016, but no real component failures. I think they are just a Subaru thing, and doubt they addressed them in the 2018s

Issues:
1. Clunk in Front Driverside Suspension when going over bumps and dips (Still un-diagnosed/fixed. Not caused by tophat)

2. Clunk in steering rack when stopped, or moving slowly, and moving the steering wheel back and fourth. (Not fixed, likely excessive lash in the steering rack worm gear drive, will likely require a new steering rack)

3. Knocking in the clutch pedal, 2 when pressing down and 2 when releasing. (There is a TSB for this, but according to my VIN, I already have the updated pedal assembly)

4. Noisy TOB for the first few min on a moist day (I don't have the revised part. It is just a minor annoyance and won't replace unless it starts failing, not worth the risk of having the dealer tear apart my car)

5. Noisy AC Compressor on the first few min of use (Buzzing/hissing noise, from my understanding, this is a normal "Feature" of our Valeo compressors)

6. Ticking Blower Motor (Barley noticeable unless on higher settings, may address with the Crosstek sound deadened cover)

Everything else on the car is solid. No oil consumption, or anything that effects the driveability.

Really, there are so many good things the WRX has, that no other car does, especially in its price range. I think the good far outweighs the problems with the car, and most problems can be addressed with some work. If you want to own one, I think you really have to decide for yourself if you can live with these minor annoyances/noises, because with a Subaru, you are going to likely have them.

I font' know all the details of the issues you had, but my guess would be that you really didn't need to replace the TOB, AC Compressor, or Blower motor. These components on our cars make noises from the factory, which appear to be bad, but actually aren't.

Just gunna start by saying DO NOT go to NORTHTOWN SUBARU in NY!

I can agree with most of your issues because I share some of the same. The clutch pedal clicks when depressed, the heat shield rattles when rolling out of first gear, the throw out bearing whistles on cold starts in summer and is always squeaking in the dead cold of winter. The stock ECU map makes this all even worse, the stock tune detonates, and sometimes sputters out on longer than usual drives than through town. The windshield was cracked because of the factory glue not being set correctly, or the car was not perfectly level installing the windshield from factory, when driving over bumps the dashboard plastics and passenger door plastics would make a cracking noise like the car was being twisted like a pop can. The “star link” radio’s Bluetooth function stopped working.

On top of all of those factory defects and abnormalities, the body shop at NORTHTOWN SUBARU charged me 7k for body work and they did not use genuine Subaru parts, they used a local knock off supplier that made replica retrofit replacements. Also they left me with a soaking wet car not even detailed at all to try to cover up their mistakes, with SWIRL markings all over the hood and a spot on the drivers door after I washed it by hand. Also some clear coat misted and peeled on the passenger fender which was not painted. Horrible company and will never buy a Subaru from them again. Don’t ever shop there. Lol
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Old 07-17-2018, 01:27 PM   #123
vanousad
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Location: Hubert NC
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2005 STI
Blue

Default 2017 wrx steering issues

I just bought a used 2017 WRX about a month ago. It has some after market parts on it, but I haven't dug deep enough to figure it all out. But yesterday when driving to work, i attempted to turn left at a stop sign and my steering became extremely hard to turn (almost as if my power steering went out). I muscled the steering wheel all the way to the left, but my car continued to go straight. So i was turned all the way, but my tires didn't budge. I called the dealership and there's no recalls for this issue. They are looking into the issue, and I'll let you all know what they say. But I'm curious if anyone else is having this problem.
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Old 07-18-2018, 07:26 PM   #124
jasonwrx86
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
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2018 WRX Limited
CWP

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by vanousad View Post
I just bought a used 2017 WRX about a month ago. It has some after market parts on it, but I haven't dug deep enough to figure it all out. But yesterday when driving to work, i attempted to turn left at a stop sign and my steering became extremely hard to turn (almost as if my power steering went out). I muscled the steering wheel all the way to the left, but my car continued to go straight. So i was turned all the way, but my tires didn't budge. I called the dealership and there's no recalls for this issue. They are looking into the issue, and I'll let you all know what they say. But I'm curious if anyone else is having this problem.
Sounds like something is broken. There is no way you turned the steering wheel all the way and the car still going straight. You would have like completely broken steering rack to do something like that.
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Old 07-18-2018, 09:46 PM   #125
moarboost16
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Join Date: May 2016
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Buffalo
Vehicle:
2016 wrx

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Quote:
Originally Posted by STIMULA8 View Post
Just gunna start by saying DO NOT go to NORTHTOWN SUBARU in NY!

I can agree with most of your issues because I share some of the same. The clutch pedal clicks when depressed, the heat shield rattles when rolling out of first gear, the throw out bearing whistles on cold starts in summer and is always squeaking in the dead cold of winter. The stock ECU map makes this all even worse, the stock tune detonates, and sometimes sputters out on longer than usual drives than through town. The windshield was cracked because of the factory glue not being set correctly, or the car was not perfectly level installing the windshield from factory, when driving over bumps the dashboard plastics and passenger door plastics would make a cracking noise like the car was being twisted like a pop can. The “star link” radio’s Bluetooth function stopped working.

On top of all of those factory defects and abnormalities, the body shop at NORTHTOWN SUBARU charged me 7k for body work and they did not use genuine Subaru parts, they used a local knock off supplier that made replica retrofit replacements. Also they left me with a soaking wet car not even detailed at all to try to cover up their mistakes, with SWIRL markings all over the hood and a spot on the drivers door after I washed it by hand. Also some clear coat misted and peeled on the passenger fender which was not painted. Horrible company and will never buy a Subaru from them again. Don’t ever shop there. Lol
I don't want to hijack this thread but....

+1 for all of this. I bought my car at Northtown Subaru and their service department is the worst I have ever dealt with. Just recently I took my car there because I have creaking from the front driver wheel when the suspension travels/ wheel turns as well as rattles from clutch/ transmission when going from a stop. Both issues they dismissed as normal. I even drove them around the parking lot so they could hear it.

I found out when I picked it up that they took it for a joy ride and beat the **** out of it while in their possession. I brought this up to the service writer and they straight up ignored my concerns. Horrible place to bring your car for service..... never again. I never hear good things about them unfortunately.
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