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Old 03-10-2010, 12:51 AM   #1
mashedpaters
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Default camber bolts and already existing alignment

I searched but didn't find an answer.
I auto-x and need more front camber than -1.5* which is what the stock bolts are maxed out as of now. I know many people who run camber bolts up front in the lower mounting holes and I was wondering if I got a set for those holes and got more negative camber (~-2.5) would I need a new alignment to compensate for the camber?
Thank you
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Old 03-10-2010, 07:13 AM   #2
leecea
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Yes. Changing the camber will change toe. You'll want toe set back to zero.
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Old 03-10-2010, 02:08 PM   #3
mashedpaters
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Is toe out the only change, because that can be done with ramps and a couple wrenches, not taking my car to an alignment shop? Thanks again
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Old 03-10-2010, 02:27 PM   #4
happs subi
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whenever you change the alignment up front, it affects the alignment in the rear. thats why you start with rear camber (if adjustable) rear toe, then front camber and front toe.
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Old 03-10-2010, 02:30 PM   #5
dem1k
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Okay.

Last edited by dem1k; 03-10-2010 at 03:18 PM.
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Old 03-10-2010, 03:13 PM   #6
happs subi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by happs subi View Post
whenever you change the alignment up front, it affects the alignment in the rear. thats why you start with rear camber (if adjustable) rear toe, then front camber and front toe.

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Old 03-10-2010, 03:26 PM   #7
etothen
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Putting eccentric bolts in the lower knuckle creates a weak point (thus the other name for these bolts, crash bolts) while the can usually (if properly installed) handle DD duty, auto x will put them under stresses that many have found to be beyond they're design capability. To get to the 2-2.5 range you can either lower the car a bit which will add camber but creates other problems, or you can get some camber plates, they cost a pretty penny but you will feel safe knowing you wont have a catastrophic camber change mid corner when the eccentric bolt in the lower knuckle slips causing you to crash (again, crash bolts)
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Old 03-10-2010, 03:35 PM   #8
leecea
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mashedpaters View Post
Is toe out the only change, because that can be done with ramps and a couple wrenches, not taking my car to an alignment shop? Thanks again
Correct, that's what I do. Though recently one of my tie rod ends decided to rust itself to the tie rod, so toe adjustment is a now a struggle

I have also slotted the bottom hole of my struts. That's a ghetto way to get more camber. I can get -2.0 with just a little material removed. I'm not sure how much slotting is OK.
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Old 03-10-2010, 03:52 PM   #9
happs subi
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Whiteline com c's will also get you a little extra caster and camber, for a bit more than group n's
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Old 03-10-2010, 05:09 PM   #10
09rexwagon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by happs subi View Post
whenever you change the alignment up front, it affects the alignment in the rear. thats why you start with rear camber (if adjustable) rear toe, then front camber and front toe.
I'd like to know how adjusting the alignment in the front affects the alignment of the rear? Just wondering.

EDIT: I guess if the rear thrust angle was not 0 and a shop did not reset it and instead, messed with the front toe to compensate, then I can see how doing the front alignment first (or only) could not be ideal.

Last edited by 09rexwagon; 03-10-2010 at 05:58 PM.
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