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Old 10-09-2018, 11:49 PM   #11751
Bolster
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Got my Version 9 Spec C motor in and running.... only to find an oil leak at the external oil cooler unit on the block. Damaged in shipping, so I had to order one from the UK. Was nice to see it start and run for a minute without CELs. Running a Ver 8 ECUs for now.
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Old 10-10-2018, 04:39 AM   #11752
Hyper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrsaturn7085 View Post
The USDM intercoolers are almost the same, too. Lots of money for little (or no) benefit). I could not fit the 2006-2007 intercooler behind the DBW throttle without firewall interference.

I think the benefit of the OEM style is having the throttle response given the large reservoir right in front of the throttle. Turbo lag is negligible but the throttle lag does exist with a FMIC. You can tune around it with a little more spark, etc. but it *DOES* need to be considered when you tune the tip-in.

EDIT: Hyper - are you logging pre-throttle boost in that photo? That's a great place to do it that I hadn't considered, but for anti-lag tuning, I've been brainstorming where I want to stick the tap.

What I *really* wouldn't mind having is a restrictor with something like this built-in so I could measure PR and hold it around 1.8.


yes, it goes directly into the autronic map sensor
honestly I can't say I noticed any added throttle lag when I added my lateral FMIC setup. I can see when it can become an issue with long piping and a core made out of soda cans

that's a cool restrictor, never seen one like that before, we've always been using a long trumpet copied from prodrive grN
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Old 10-10-2018, 04:00 PM   #11753
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyper View Post
that's a cool restrictor, never seen one like that before, we've always been using a long trumpet copied from prodrive grN
I've got 3 and haven't really noticed any difference in how they perform:

1. Prodrive 33mm aluminum (N15)
2. TMR 34mm steel (N14-N15)
3. STI 33mm long aluminum (N14-N15)

As far as I can tell, the only difference is which inlet you want to run. The STI long one needs the STI inlet while all the others work find with the Samco/Prodrive.
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Old 10-20-2018, 07:37 PM   #11754
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Update for those buying twin scroll engines: the newer style GDB JDM twin scroll down pipe is the exact same length as the USDM downpipe, so you won’t need anything besides possibly an adapter for the 2.5” donut flange in the down pipe to your car-back if it has a 3.0” flange, for instance.

Last edited by Bolster; 10-20-2018 at 07:38 PM. Reason: Clarification
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Old 10-20-2018, 08:14 PM   #11755
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Here is a shot of the downpipe.

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Old 10-21-2018, 12:23 PM   #11756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bolster View Post
Update for those buying twin scroll engines: the newer style GDB JDM twin scroll down pipe is the exact same length as the USDM downpipe, so you wonít need anything besides possibly an adapter for the 2.5Ē donut flange in the down pipe to your car-back if it has a 3.0Ē flange, for instance.
This is facts, I bought a jdm exhaust only to find my dp was too long, I had an exhaust shop cut the 3" off and reweld the flange on the dp. Now I'm stuck with jdm length exhausts.
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Old 10-21-2018, 10:34 PM   #11757
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bolster View Post
Update for those buying twin scroll engines: the newer style GDB JDM twin scroll down pipe is the exact same length as the USDM downpipe, so you wonít need anything besides possibly an adapter for the 2.5Ē donut flange in the down pipe to your car-back if it has a 3.0Ē flange, for instance.


The twin scroll down pipe of a ver 9 is long and equal to our usdm, the twin scroll down pipe on a ver 8 is short as is a single scroll down pipe of a ver 7.
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Old 10-27-2018, 05:31 PM   #11758
suprabats
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Rodman View Post
The twin scroll down pipe of a ver 9 is long and equal to our usdm, the twin scroll down pipe on a ver 8 is short as is a single scroll down pipe of a ver 7.
Correct, because I swapped my V7 to twin scroll from single scroll, I used the tomioka twin scroll usdm length dp. Nice piece and performs well.
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Old 11-08-2018, 04:04 PM   #11759
JaviJuice
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Hey everyone,Side question:
Kinugawa wastegate actuator for the vf36, preload is 3 full turns? I found one reference to this but wanted to double check... 1.2 bar spring if it matters. TIA.
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Old 11-08-2018, 04:17 PM   #11760
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I went off their site for a baseline to start with but it was pretty far off, you'll have to readjust it as you do logs to find where it should be set at.
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Old 12-04-2018, 01:03 PM   #11761
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Do V9 ej207ís have a COmbi valve? Or where is the barometric sensor in the v9207? Total noob with this stuff but canít really seem to find this infor for a 207... also what are avg barometer sensor numbers upon startup? Thanks in advance!
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Old 12-04-2018, 02:16 PM   #11762
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Baro is internal to the ECU or potentially read by the MAP before starting. Never bothered to check, but it's one of the two.
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Old 12-05-2018, 10:12 AM   #11763
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrsaturn7085 View Post
Baro is internal to the ECU or potentially read by the MAP before starting. Never bothered to check, but it's one of the two.
So if iím running my usdm ecu, on a jdm motor, what would be the way to solve this? Finding the baro sensor from the old 255 and connecting it? Or is there another way around it?
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Old 12-05-2018, 01:17 PM   #11764
mrsaturn7085
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There is nothing to solve...
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Old 01-15-2019, 12:44 PM   #11765
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New 207 owners here. I recently acquired a v7 ej207 for my 2000 impreza RS. Any advice what do before I drop this motor in my car? What else do I need to check? Iíll be running JDM ecu. Do I need tune for 93oct? Im only going to run it in stock form nothing crazy.
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Old 01-15-2019, 01:42 PM   #11766
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GF4dad View Post
New 207 owners here. I recently acquired a v7 ej207 for my 2000 impreza RS. Any advice what do before I drop this motor in my car? What else do I need to check? Iíll be running JDM ecu. Do I need tune for 93oct? Im only going to run it in stock form nothing crazy.
only thing you have to worry about is passing emissions. Most don't connect to the jdm ecu's. Unless it's a track car then it doesn't matter. Just do the normal maintenance stuff and go on your way.
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Old 01-21-2019, 12:04 AM   #11767
grey wolf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GF4dad View Post
New 207 owners here. I recently acquired a v7 ej207 for my 2000 impreza RS. Any advice what do before I drop this motor in my car? What else do I need to check? Iíll be running JDM ecu. Do I need tune for 93oct? Im only going to run it in stock form nothing crazy.
Definitely tune it for the fuel you will be using. I have a JDM Impreza STI with that engine and got it tuned for 94 octane. The guy who tuned my car showed me that it was knocking at higher RPM even with 94, so he made the necessary changes. Our fuel, even the best stuff you can get here (aside from buying barrels of racing fuel and storing them in your garage perhaps..) is just not as good as what they have in Japan.
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Old 02-13-2019, 01:27 PM   #11768
joors
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Hi all, newbie to the subie family and the ej207. Had some bad news so I'm trying to figure out what my next steps are with my car.

I bought an 02 bugeye with a v7 ej207, jdm v7 transmission and some other goodies

Had a compression test and a leakdown test done and here's the results:

Compression:
Cyl 1 = 125-130 psi's
Cyl 2 = 115-120 psi's
Cyl 3 = 125-130 psi's
Cyl 4 = 105-110 psi's

Leakdown
Cyl 1 = 1%
Cyl 2 = 8%
Cyl 3 = 6%
Cyl 4 = 10%

The shop said if I baby it and treat it like it doesn't have a turbo it should last a while but if I'm looking to do anything with power then I'm going to need a rebuild and gave a pretty hefty price.

So I guess I'm trying to figure out what would be the best option moving forward.

1. A friend of mine suggested I get an ej257 and either put that in until I can get the ej207 rebuilt. OR get an ej257, rebuild that slowly, replace the ej207 and then rebuild that when I get the money.

2. Or would it make sense to buy a new (to me) v7 ej207 and pop that in?

3. Or baby the engine until I've saved up enough to get the work done.

My end goal, I'd like to get to ~420-450whp down the line and still be a reliable-ish daily driver but looks like I'll be delaying that.

Anyway, any thoughts/recommendations would be appreciated!
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Old 02-13-2019, 02:10 PM   #11769
johnfelstead
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The earlier JDM STi 2.0 engines ran tighter clearances on the valves, which led to some issues with valve seat seal over longer mileage as the valve seat wore.

When doing leak down and compression tests make sure the engine is hot and the cams are in the fully closed valve position.

So long as the oil pressure is reading good numbers and its not using oil, just spank it. If you are using oil then it will need rings doing, but these 2.0 JDM's don't use a drop normally. They are not a chocolate 2.5 with floppy cylinder walls.

Don't waste your money on a different engine if the above is OK.

When you can afford it, pull the engine and freshen it up.
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Old 02-13-2019, 03:54 PM   #11770
joors
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfelstead View Post
The earlier JDM STi 2.0 engines ran tighter clearances on the valves, which led to some issues with valve seat seal over longer mileage as the valve seat wore.

When doing leak down and compression tests make sure the engine is hot and the cams are in the fully closed valve position.

So long as the oil pressure is reading good numbers and its not using oil, just spank it. If you are using oil then it will need rings doing, but these 2.0 JDM's don't use a drop normally. They are not a chocolate 2.5 with floppy cylinder walls.

Don't waste your money on a different engine if the above is OK.

When you can afford it, pull the engine and freshen it up.
The engine has approx 80k miles. They said the oil pan is beginning to seep oil and the oil cooler is seeping as well.

I don't know if the shop did the test while the engine was hot/cams fully closed but I'd like to assume so. I had it done at one of the most reputable places in the area so I would like to assume it was done right but with anything, mistakes can happen.
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Old 02-14-2019, 11:56 AM   #11771
subaru_gc8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joors View Post
Hi all, newbie to the subie family and the ej207. Had some bad news so I'm trying to figure out what my next steps are with my car.

I bought an 02 bugeye with a v7 ej207, jdm v7 transmission and some other goodies

Had a compression test and a leakdown test done and here's the results:

Compression:
Cyl 1 = 125-130 psi's
Cyl 2 = 115-120 psi's
Cyl 3 = 125-130 psi's
Cyl 4 = 105-110 psi's

Leakdown
Cyl 1 = 1%
Cyl 2 = 8%
Cyl 3 = 6%
Cyl 4 = 10%

The shop said if I baby it and treat it like it doesn't have a turbo it should last a while but if I'm looking to do anything with power then I'm going to need a rebuild and gave a pretty hefty price.

So I guess I'm trying to figure out what would be the best option moving forward.

1. A friend of mine suggested I get an ej257 and either put that in until I can get the ej207 rebuilt. OR get an ej257, rebuild that slowly, replace the ej207 and then rebuild that when I get the money.

2. Or would it make sense to buy a new (to me) v7 ej207 and pop that in?

3. Or baby the engine until I've saved up enough to get the work done.

My end goal, I'd like to get to ~420-450whp down the line and still be a reliable-ish daily driver but looks like I'll be delaying that.

Anyway, any thoughts/recommendations would be appreciated!
or you can stroke it, but yeah make sure its the rings and not valve seals
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Old 02-14-2019, 06:59 PM   #11772
D-Rodman
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Default EJ207 Owners?

Reliable and ej257 are mutually exclusive but if you must why not ? Get a built ej257 short block and have the avcs ej207 heads machined to work on the ej257. Hybrid yo!

Last edited by D-Rodman; 02-14-2019 at 07:05 PM.
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Old 02-15-2019, 12:43 AM   #11773
NewSilverWRX
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I suppose I will add that if you are convinced the 207 needs work what about a JDM 205 in its place until you get it sorted? I went from blown USDM 205 to 207, but kinda wished I had considered the JDM 205. Cheap AVCS motor.
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Old 02-15-2019, 07:07 AM   #11774
D-Rodman
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^ That is a valid point, the jdm ej205 with avcs would just drop in plug and play. I have both jdm ej207 and ej205. I love my ej207 but donít mind the ej205 at all.
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Old 02-15-2019, 10:09 AM   #11775
NinoS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joors View Post
Compression:
Cyl 1 = 125-130 psi's
Cyl 2 = 115-120 psi's
Cyl 3 = 125-130 psi's
Cyl 4 = 105-110 psi's
!
I have an EJ20x with similar compression numbers, same cylinder #4 was down near 100. Decided to move forward for now and see how it goes, and rebuild if it blows. Have taken care of all other issues since I got it and I'm getting the car tuned (just a downpipe added) on Feb 27th, mainly because i don't have the tuning history of the car. We will see how it goes then, i'm prepared for the worst but as of right now after the other work i've done she's running nicely with no leaks or smoking problems.
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