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Old 02-01-2015, 09:51 AM   #26
Bansheeboy11
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The bottom is smooth as a babys behind, just gotta finish the wheel wells and i can start cutting the old rust out!





I also found out how my drivers floor kept getting wet in the rain...

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Old 02-04-2015, 12:23 PM   #27
JDMaddict555
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I need to do this to the underside of my RS, mine is totally stripped, how did you go about turning the car on its side, do you have some type of rotisserie tool?
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Old 02-04-2015, 01:16 PM   #28
Bansheeboy11
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Nope, man power! Me and a buddy lifted it on tires

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Old 02-09-2015, 11:04 PM   #29
t3hWIT
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Looking good man, gotta admit I'm kinda jelly.

Sent from my HTC One using NASIOC mobile app
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Old 02-19-2015, 03:30 PM   #30
Bansheeboy11
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Don't be this thing is a rust bucket lol, im trying to figure out what to do with the rockers right now. Id like to incorporate some side-sill pin stands since I have to cut these out anyway, as well as fix the rear wheel well rust, and then break out the flap discs and start welding.

In other news, ive got enough spare change to pick up a tig welder and a plasma cutter, so hopefully I pick up quick using those and can get fabrication done with my own hands.
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Old 02-19-2015, 03:39 PM   #31
ShadowIMg
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Rockers you say?



After underbody coating
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Old 02-19-2015, 03:43 PM   #32
ShadowIMg
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and to the original part of the thread, seam welding

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Old 02-19-2015, 03:49 PM   #33
Bansheeboy11
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Sweet! What undercoating did you use? Im going with Sherman Williams Macropoxy. How did you do the rockers? I want to keep my side skirts on the car, and I don't want the pin stands to interfere so I was thinking to replace the sheet metal, then do a u-channel or box tube like you did, then run the pin tubes through that into the body.
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Old 02-19-2015, 03:52 PM   #34
ShadowIMg
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It's U-Pol Raptor spray on truck bed liner.

The rockers are completely custom metal, not intended to have a skirt. There's 1" square stock behind the original pinch weld seam along the bottom, then I forget what gauge steel covering a tube under on the outside.

The pin tubes actually tie through it into the cage foot boxes


I can't claim any of the work though, it's by Izzy's Custom Cages, what he calls "boat sides" intended for either rally or rock crawling.

The full album is here if you want to see all his work from road car to caged chassis: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...8910333&type=3
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Old 03-24-2015, 05:26 PM   #35
pooch1996
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lots of great info here
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Old 06-09-2015, 04:55 PM   #36
Bansheeboy11
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So pumped! Got my rotisserie last week, cant wait to get the car on it

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...6&postcount=24
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Old 06-09-2015, 05:06 PM   #37
adrenalinejunkie
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Nice banshee! Looking good.

Last edited by adrenalinejunkie; 07-04-2015 at 12:30 PM.
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Old 06-16-2015, 03:52 PM   #38
Bansheeboy11
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Nice, im going to try and get the car on the rack this weekend, gotta get some big strong boys to help me carry it from the tent into the garage, itll make life a thousand times easier with the lift
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Old 06-20-2015, 07:44 PM   #39
Bansheeboy11
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Got the car on it today! Super cool, cant wait to get started! http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...2707481&page=2
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Old 07-10-2015, 03:17 PM   #40
davis10
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It was said, but ill say it again. Definitely go with MIG not TIG. The seam sealer goes deeep into the seams and it is pretty much impossible to get out unless you acid dip the shell.

To remove it I ended up using combination of methods. First I got a dewer of LN2 and used that to freeze the seam sealer/underbody coating and chip it off. I didn't have a rotisserie so it didn't work too well on the underbody, but did a good job on the inside seams and sound deadening. I wouldn't bother with that again though unless you have the chassis on a rotisserie it might get better results. Just get a bunch of dry ice to get the sound deadening out on the inside. For the undercoating and other seams start with a 8" grinder with a huge wire brush and use that to strip off as much as possible. That occasional vicious kickback from the grinder is inevitable so be ready for it and wear plenty of PPE. The mess that makes is insane, but it actually goes fairly quick. After that there is a residual amount of seam sealer still in the seems. The larger ones I used a pick to pull out as much as I can, one you get the hang of it you can pull out large chunks at a time that are pretty deep in the seam. Then I heated the seams with a map gas torch and whatever was left burned and bubbled out. Brush off the residual as best as you can then weld. For the bigger seams on the bottom that are rolled then butted together I did like a 3/4"-1" bead with 1"-1.5" spacing since I found they would take a little more heat. The lapped seams I found like to blow through a little easier (from being harder to clean and thinner edge welds), so I did smaller stitches on some of them. Like 1cm with 2 cm spacing or so. Keep the welder on the cold side the welds don't perfect penetration to get the benefits with this.
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Old 07-12-2015, 08:50 AM   #41
Jetfixr320
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Plumbers torch and a scraper works great for undercoating. Much better then having wires from a wire wheel flinging at you. And all the dust created by it.
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Old 07-16-2015, 10:53 AM   #42
Bansheeboy11
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I picked up a cheapo harbor freight oscillating scraper, works like a charm! A heat gun helps with the heavy stuff, then torch/scraper/picks for the small seams. Hopefully I can get some work done so I have time to start working on the car, I have to add some mounting points to the rotisserie... I made the mistake of trusting Chinese hardware and the car fell of the rear rack, crushed the spare tire well pretty good lol
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