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Old 05-08-2019, 01:51 PM   #26
Scuby04STi
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Why not just buy a 360* laser level? That is what I have always used and it makes the whole process extremely quick and easy to set-up. It was actually cheaper than my nice long level I bought years ago, lol.

Glad you are finding the benefits to the tools you have acquired, a lot of people miss out on the gains in tuning your cars chassis to your driving preferences.
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Old 05-08-2019, 02:26 PM   #27
RacecarWRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anarekist View Post
great build, love your garage.
Thanks! Its the nicest room in the whole house!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scuby04STi View Post
Why not just buy a 360* laser level? That is what I have always used and it makes the whole process extremely quick and easy to set-up. It was actually cheaper than my nice long level I bought years ago, lol.

Glad you are finding the benefits to the tools you have acquired, a lot of people miss out on the gains in tuning your cars chassis to your driving preferences.
I looked at a laser level then came to the conclusion that they are easy to knock out of calibration, is that your experience? I also work with the garage door open and was afraid the laser would not be bright enough. And you are right, the level was expensive as hell, but some things are just worth the extra money and given I spent so much to get to where I am with the tools that I have, I was not about to cheap out.

Lastly, I agree that chassis tuning seems to have taken a back seats. A lot of guys these days are focused on chasing power, aero, and stance. I agree there is tons to be gained by tweaking and perfecting chassis dynamics and I hope that these videos allow me to: 1. Learn by teaching 2. Find like minded individuals and learn from them 2. Inspire and Educate those who want to learn more
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Old 05-09-2019, 08:56 AM   #28
Scuby04STi
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Originally Posted by RacecarWRX View Post
Thanks! Its the nicest room in the whole house!



I looked at a laser level then came to the conclusion that they are easy to knock out of calibration, is that your experience? I also work with the garage door open and was afraid the laser would not be bright enough. And you are right, the level was expensive as hell, but some things are just worth the extra money and given I spent so much to get to where I am with the tools that I have, I was not about to cheap out.

Lastly, I agree that chassis tuning seems to have taken a back seats. A lot of guys these days are focused on chasing power, aero, and stance. I agree there is tons to be gained by tweaking and perfecting chassis dynamics and I hope that these videos allow me to: 1. Learn by teaching 2. Find like minded individuals and learn from them 2. Inspire and Educate those who want to learn more
So my experiance has been great with the 360* laser level, I used to double check with my long level and stopped after I never had to adjust it again. Honestly at this point I would just paint the floor pads spots and record the shims and such per corner, it should be simple and quick from now on if you do that.

As long as you don't drop them (just like any level) it will be fine. People with issues tend to be the issue and toss it in the tool box in their pick up truck. Lol
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Old 05-10-2019, 12:33 AM   #29
BlueSTI4Me
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What level is that? You added the extension?
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Old 05-10-2019, 12:50 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Scuby04STi View Post
So my experiance has been great with the 360* laser level, I used to double check with my long level and stopped after I never had to adjust it again. Honestly at this point I would just paint the floor pads spots and record the shims and such per corner, it should be simple and quick from now on if you do that.

As long as you don't drop them (just like any level) it will be fine. People with issues tend to be the issue and toss it in the tool box in their pick up truck. Lol
Well, if my level ever breaks I'll look at a laser level, but boy I hope it never does.

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What level is that? You added the extension?
Stabila. German made, with a lifetime warranty on the bubble. I think that one is an 8 foot with a built in extension that expands up to 12.
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Old 05-14-2019, 07:42 PM   #31
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The last installment of the videos covering the coilover install, setup for alignment, and finally the video covering the alignment. This one to me, is the most interesting. It really covers making camber adjustment and toe adjustments. While the video is only 30 mins long, this entire process can take me HOURS to dial in. The process is not hard, but it requires determination, attention to detail, and patience.

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Old 05-17-2019, 05:13 PM   #32
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Nice!

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Old 05-17-2019, 05:22 PM   #33
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A quick little teaser video while I get through all the footage from Thunderhill West 05-16-19.

Please subscribe to the channel if you'd like to see the rest of what I have coming.

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Old 05-19-2019, 08:20 PM   #34
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Had the chance to shakedown the new suspension on Thunderhill West.

Fastest lap:


Full session by session:

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Old 05-26-2019, 02:05 PM   #35
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Here we go again!!! Car is packed and ready to hit Thunderhill again! Instead of the tighter more technical West circuit, we are hitting the faster longer East! Stay tuned for more videos of the WRX tearing up the track and trying to set some new PBs.
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Old 05-28-2019, 09:46 PM   #36
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Double post

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Old 05-29-2019, 02:14 PM   #37
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:d :d:d
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Old 05-29-2019, 02:19 PM   #38
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Track day at Thunderhill East was a huge success. I'm currently working through all the videos, but while that is happening here is a quick one from last week.

During the GGLC event at Thunderhill West, the WRX hit a curb pretty hard. I cut a corner slightly too early, the front left went off the track before making contact with the start of the curb. The rest of the session the car performed fine, and the during the drive home the high winds made it difficult to tell if there was an alignment slip.

In this video, I quickly inspect the tie rod, ball joint, and wheel bearing. I also double check camber to make sure they are still equal on both sides. Unless a suspension arm bent and pull would be a result of a toe change, and a toe change would be a result of a camber change. Checking camber was a quick way to verify that toe was still OK. I also pull the pads and show you some of the wear that can happen while tracking, and I think it is a good reminder to always flip pads to help increase longevity and even out wear.

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Old 05-29-2019, 02:24 PM   #39
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Here is the fastest lap I could managed with OnGrid @ Thunderhill East. New PB!! There are some mistakes here and there, and I think the coilovers can be dialed in better. Hopefully we get another chance in the later half of the year.

Full length videos too follow, as well as session by session break down and a compilation of fun little track oopsies.

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Old 06-03-2019, 09:20 PM   #40
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A quick update on the car:

I was swapping my track pads over back to my daily pads, and discovered on of the pads friction material completely separated from its backing plate. This is a total failure of the pad. I believe these pads had a mechanical retention feature designed specifically to avoid this. I'm not sure what happened here. I'm extremely lucky the friction material didn't fall out of the caliper while slamming on the brakes down the front straight. The backplate has two holes in it, and the friction material has two nubs. I think this use to be some type of rivet.

I think what saved me here is the knockback springs on the caliper's piston. The knock pads springs are design to keep the piston in contact with the pad, which in turn keeps the pad in contact with the rotor. They are designed to keep the pads from floating away from the rotor during turns, and requiring the driver to pump the pedal during the next braking zone to bring the pad back in contact with the rotor. I think this simple 4 lb spring, keep the pad together.

The friction material held up just fine, no fade at all. Brake fluid held up too. I was told by some drivers from a different run group that my rotors were glowing red in the braking zone of turn 1.

Here are some photos:






I had some time to pour through the datalogs from the car today. It looks like we are starting to bump against the oiling systems limits. Here is a screenshot showing oil pressure over the fastest lap on the circuit. I'm particularly concerned in the circled areas.

Circle #1, I think this is oil starvation at its definition. This is a long turn, relatively high g, and as engine RPM increase I should see oil pressure increase then whole relatively steady. Instead as I begin to exit the corner and put my foot down, oil pressure starts to jump up and down and drops.

Circle #2, #3 and #4 I think are due to road conditions. #2, is a quick drop in elevation. #3 and #4 are likely due to me hitting curbing.

At the end of the day, I think the car is going to need some baffling to keep oil around the pickup tube. Engine failure will happen if I continue chasing lap times with the current configuration. Right now, there is nothing on the market for this engine, so I'm left scratching my head on what to do. I could pick up a welder and learn, but it likely take several tries before I come up with anything resembling a decent solution.


Last edited by RacecarWRX; 06-03-2019 at 09:33 PM.
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Old 06-03-2019, 11:50 PM   #41
uofime
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What pads were those?
Iíve had that happen twice both times it was from overheating the pads aka wrong compound for use (though I could get away with ds2500 for first couple events I stock tires NOPE and trying powerstop brand trackday pads on the rear after being more experienced NOPE)

Are you running lower than 200TW tires? If so get less sticky tires, itís a lot cheaper than a dry sump if youíre not competing in a class that needs the stickier stuff.
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Old 06-04-2019, 12:03 PM   #42
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What pads were those?
Iíve had that happen twice both times it was from overheating the pads aka wrong compound for use (though I could get away with ds2500 for first couple events I stock tires NOPE and trying powerstop brand trackday pads on the rear after being more experienced NOPE)

Are you running lower than 200TW tires? If so get less sticky tires, itís a lot cheaper than a dry sump if youíre not competing in a class that needs the stickier stuff.
Gloc R16s. A good brand, and one of their most aggressive compounds. The friction material was taking the beating fine, it was the mechanical retention that failed. I got an email out to them, hopefully we can figure out how to keep it from happening again.

I had 100TW tires on them, semi slick r compounds. Not the most sticky of the tires available, but still pretty good. Most of the 200TW tires cannot handle the heat generated by the car and its weight during the 20 minute long session. Plus, I want to try to hit a lower 2 minute time, and hell if its possible pull a sub 2, but I'm dreaming here.

There is a lot of room for improvement, both in my line and in the suspension. This was only the second outing with the new coilovers, and the first at this track layout. There plenty to tweak and try to improve, hopefully without popping the motor.


SEXXXY!

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Old 06-04-2019, 12:50 PM   #43
uofime
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I run the step down xp12s in the front and have gone through a few sets without issues.

Re71 and rivals will overheat after a couple heaters but other options like hankook R-S4 and falken 615k+ can deal with whole sessions well.

I’ve done over half a dozen HPDEs on one set of RS4s and they’ve got as many more events in them.

Baffled pans are a bandaid at best as are acusumps. If you run super sticky tires and or real aero you end up needing a dry sump. You can spend 8k on that (although on one makes a kit for the turbo FA20) or 600$ on a set of tires and spend your money practicing your driving. No offense, but I’ve seen your videos and like most of us more practice would definitely yield ample lap-time improvement.

Did you street drive a bit on those pads before that picture, those were definitely running cold.
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Old 06-04-2019, 01:16 PM   #44
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I run the step down xp12s in the front and have gone through a few sets without issues.

Re71 and rivals will overheat after a couple heaters but other options like hankook R-S4 and falken 615k+ can deal with whole sessions well.

Iíve done over half a dozen HPDEs on one set of RS4s and theyíve got as many more events in them.

Baffled pans are a bandaid at best as are acusumps. If you run super sticky tires and or real aero you end up needing a dry sump. You can spend 8k on that (although on one makes a kit for the turbo FA20) or 600$ on a set of tires and spend your money practicing your driving. No offense, but Iíve seen your videos and like most of us more practice would definitely yield ample lap-time improvement.

Did you street drive a bit on those pads before that picture, those were definitely running cold.
Agreed the baffles and accusumps are bandaids. And your right dry sumps are VERY expensive and even if there was a kit available, I sure don't have the cash to drop on one.

As for practice, I 100% agree. There tons of room for improvement and I definitely don't take any offense to it. If it I was that great, I'd be a professional driver! Part of it is going to the track and just churning through laps, and the other half is trying to figure out where to make improvements. The later is much more difficult.

As for the pads, yes they were driven on from the track back home. I'm way too lazy to swap pads back while at the track. Towards the end of the day, I just wanna get home and have a beer.
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Old 06-05-2019, 12:02 PM   #45
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I hunt for a braking point, a 370z drifts, a model 3 goes wild, there is a mysterious z4 on track, and I almost get mowed down by a camaro.

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Old 06-16-2019, 02:57 PM   #46
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A few updates here:

My search for an oil pressure solution has turned up nothing worth wild. There just seems to be nothing on the market for these motors. I'll continue to run as is, and keep a careful eye on engine health. Because of this starvation issue, I recently sent in a UOA to re-establish a baseline for wear materials in the motor. I haven't done a UOA on the car for some time now, so it's probably a good health check.

A few other items are on the list as upgrades for the car. The first of which is hood louvers. I want to run the car during the summer months, but past experience has shown that oil and coolant temperatures get uncomfortably high. Last summer the car saw oil temps in the 270+ range, and coolant touching 230. Not ideal, and probably not good for the longevity of the engine. Given the new suspension, and the ability to push the car harder, I'm very tentative about tracking the car during the summer months. However, that leaves me bored as hell for 3-4 months.

A radiator could help with coolant, but does nothing for oil. The car already has an oil cooler, and I could go with a larger cooler but that would require a solution to cover it during the winter months. All of the above would be very expensive as well so I figured louvers would be a relatively cost effective solution. Obviously there are CF hoods with louvers built in, however I'm very skeptical of their actual efficacy. A little bit of searching, and I found my way back to Velox/Verus engineering.

Verus offers a set of drop in louvers for the WRX/STi hoods. I'm partial to Verus's louvers because:

1. They tested pressure zones on the hood of the car to determine optimal positioning of the louvers. From what I've researched, louvers should be places within a relative low pressure zone to help create a pressure differential that promotes air flow through the louvers. The area behind the radiator is a high pressure zone, and the louvers should be place on the hood with the lowest possible pressure thus creating the greatest pressure differential and promoting flow from the high pressure to low pressure zone.

Here is pressure data provided by Verus:


We should take this pressure data with a grain of salt, but alas it is all we have to work with unless we want to validate this information ourselves.

2. The louvers are designed to avoid compromising the structural rigidity of the hood.

3. The oem hood is actually very light. Any weight reduction from a well designed CF could could be offset by a weekly reduction in beers.

Verus also provides some empirical data regarding underhood temperatures: before and after the louvers.
http://media.wix.com/ugd/69b02f_bc37...50b9b172a0.pdf

If I'm honest, the results seem less than stellar. The temp differentials are very minimal in normal driving conditions, which should be expected given the lack of load. Then the race data is simulated, which may or may not truly reflect what we see on track. Then there is also the fact that this data is generated using a BRZ/FRS, for which the kit includes 4 louvers instead of 2. Suffice to say its not a apples to apples comparison to the WRX/STi.



So whats the desired result with the louvers? While the marketing material from Verus stress the decrease in temp on ignition coils and the louvers ability to help increase longevity of the coils, I'm most concerned about oil and coolant temperatures. The Verus material mentions nothing of this. I hope that the louvers can promote more flow over the radiator and my front mounted oil cooler. Hopefully this provides a noticeable drop in temperatures. My main concern is that these louvers are just for show and actually non function, but I hope this is not the case.

I am attempting to source an extra hood for some back to back testing. It will also enable me to keep the car stock looking while not at the track.


Stay tuned, as there is another package enroute with a pretty high tech gadget for the WRX!

Last edited by RacecarWRX; 06-16-2019 at 03:02 PM.
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Old 06-18-2019, 11:42 AM   #47
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Snazzy tach, gear pos, and alert bar. Going to use this for oil pressure, oil temp, coolant, and my favorite.... max GSum. Max GSum is a calculated value that estimates your maximum G and gives you a real time display of how much father you need to push to reach the maximum G of the car's ability.



More info:
https://www.autosportlabs.com/produc...ear-indicator/
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Old 06-18-2019, 12:33 PM   #48
anarekist
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been researching ways to decrease engine bay temps too and came across this guy

https://instagram.com/walkersmitholo...d=kl1u03trcjls

uses the verus mustang louvers
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Old 06-18-2019, 01:07 PM   #49
Scuby04STi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anarekist View Post
been researching ways to decrease engine bay temps too and came across this guy

https://instagram.com/walkersmitholo...d=kl1u03trcjls

uses the verus mustang louvers
Have you guys taken off the rear hood seal? I removed mine years ago on my '04 and have never had engine related temp issues.
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Old 06-18-2019, 04:06 PM   #50
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awesome build. nice work
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