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04-07-2002, 09:49 PM | #1 |
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Questions questions questions...
Brake questions:
I'm planning on doing or getting my brakes done in the near future, do I need to get my rotors turned when I do them??? I'm also going to put on some SS braided lines and better fluid. What is a good brand of fluid and where can I purchase some??? Tyre questions: I NEED to get new tyres soon and narrowed it down to the following: Kuhmo 712 Bridgestone RE730 Yokohama A520 What's everyone's opinion on these...yeah I know I could look in the tyre forum but I want opinons from people that drive in the same crap I do everyday (BTW - I do alot of expressway driving but want something good for the occational track day ro autoX.) Should I stay the same size 205/55/16 or go 205/50/16 or should I say screw it and go with some 17" rims??? -mykr. "stupid questions from a dumb guy..."
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04-07-2002, 10:36 PM | #2 |
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Mike- You MUST turn your rotors...no one here will agree with me but if you want the proper stopping power then you need to have them turned. You should flush the brake fluid(should be flushed every 2yr/24k)...you can get Motul 600 from northstar motorsports for $12/pint. You should get 2 bottles to make sure you get the system totally flushed. I need to do the same but waiting till i get the brake lines ...get A520's...you WON'T be disappointed i promise...712's are a harder compound and don't stick near as well. stay with the same size, no need to change...or at least in my opinion their isn't
Jeremy |
04-07-2002, 11:10 PM | #3 | |
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Re: Questions questions questions...
Quote:
I chose to go with the Bridgestone S-03s and love them!!! They were expensive, but I'd do it again. I do lots of express way and in-town driving. And they made a huge difference for AutoX. I no longer have understeer and I didn't even add a rear sway bar. I can add oversteer by dropping the rear pressure, but I like the neutral feeling better. I chose the go with 225/50-16. The wider the better and no rubbing issues. Plus, they are the max size width for STX I have no experience with the other tires, but thought I'd drop you my $0.02. BTW, Luke from tire rack put the S-03s first on his list. Just ask him... Drive safe, Eric |
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04-07-2002, 11:25 PM | #4 |
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Mike, for tires consider the Falkens. The A520 have been known for high wear and high noise. Kumhos are good, but have a soft sidewall.
As for brakes, this sounds like a great time to upgrade. Forget turning the rotors, that money is better spent on larger slotted/crossdrilled rotors. And don't forget uprated brake pads. And yeah go with Motul... If you can get a good set of 17" rims 50-53 offset, close to or less than 16 lbs, then go for it. If not then stay with stock size or 50 profile. And what are you running for suspension? |
04-07-2002, 11:53 PM | #5 |
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Depends. If a street car than yes have them turned. If you road race the car, many racers will tell you to NEVER change both pads and rotors at the same time. Bed them in seperately or you'll have glazing issues. I always change pads and rotors seperately if at all possible. If not than I try to take it easy for at least 300 miles before getting on them hard but they still have a higher chance of glazing.
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04-08-2002, 02:21 AM | #6 |
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you should always have them turned,unless they are below minimum thickness, then just replace them. Depending on your budget, you could look into drilled/slotted. Those EBC pads are nice (i've heard) but they wear out extremely fast and are expensive. Bendix is a good brand for oem applications. As far as the glazing issue, I am not a racer, But i do know that glazing is caused by improper break in of the pads. It seems that excessive heat liquifies the resin used to bind the pad material together. So do not brake hard unnecessarily for the first 200 miles. Unless you get pads that do not require break in.
For tires i am not the guy to ask as I just get the cheapest tires that I can that have the best speed rating. For me that is Firestone LeMans. At 68$ each I thought that was a good deal and so far they have been better than the RE92's. I put on too many miles to be showing off with expensive tires. |
04-08-2002, 08:11 AM | #7 |
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This is the type of stuff I like!!!
Jeremy - Wanna do some brakes/Kartboy shifter bushings this coming Sunday??? I can go up and get some Motul this week. I think I'll be getting some front KVR pads from Kevin aka gtguy this week as well. I'll have to pick up some rear pads somwhere. I got the SS brake lines in my room...waiting. Andrew - I do have the $$$ for some cross drilled rotors but wanna keep the costs down right now. How much do they typically run??? Did Brian ever get his on his RS??? Perhaps I'll "borrow" his... I'm running AGX/Eibach suspension right now. From what I get from the TireRack.com site, the A520's wear the quickest from the 4 models I chose: Kuhmo 712 - Overall rating 8.2 Bridgestone RE730 - Overall rating 8.4 Sumitomo HTR ZII - Overall rating 8.4 Yokohama A520 - Overall rating 8.2 So it seems like I'd choose between the Bridgestone or the Sumitomo. (Calculated for 205/50/16 size) Eric - S03's...I agree they're nice but too much $$$ for the mileage I drive and I don't think I'll ever use them to their full potential. Tim - Thanks for the brake pad advice. I can whip off 200 miles in like 4 days. Keep the advice coming fellas!!! -mykr. |
04-08-2002, 08:41 AM | #8 |
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Just like the last thread, nobody can agree on tires... I have Kuhmo 712s now and I think the RE730s are better but they are more expensive. Of those choices I would probably choose the RE730s.
I want to bleed my brakes and switch over to the KVR carbon pads I have sometime before the dragon so I can break them in properly. I hopefully will be getting the last of my suspension stuff this week and then just need to install it all. Where did that overworked Honda mechanic go? Phil |
04-08-2002, 09:28 AM | #9 |
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If you want to keep costs down, don't waste your money on expensive brake fluid.
Get it at your local Ford dealer. Seriously. Ask them for brake fluid, and the only kind they sell is "heavy duty". Boils dry at or above almost every other fluid except seriously high dollar synthetics ( 550 ). DOT 3, so it only boils at 284 wet, but you can buy 4 times as much for the same money. Change it twice as often and you save money *and* get better performance. OTOH, if you want to be able to brag about how expensive or exotic or cool your brake fluid is, this is not for you. |
04-08-2002, 11:21 AM | #10 |
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But Hillman...I want to "legitimately" be able to put a Motul decal on my car when I'm rycing around Chinatown...
Phil - Perhaps we can convince that Honda tech to do both cars @ the same time. -mykr. |
04-08-2002, 11:55 AM | #11 |
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Another vote for the 730, I've run them on my Integra and they were phenomenally better then the stockers.
Excellent dry weather traction, good wet, smooth break-away. Only issue is they were a little noisy. But that could have been my car. When I wear out these RE-011s, I'm gonna put them on the REX. Brake pads: warning about the KVRs. Do NOT use them for a track day. I ended up heating mine up so hot, I melted the adhesive holding the pad material to the backing plate. When I got home, I replaced the pad and the pad literally fell out of the caliper....scary Mike |
04-08-2002, 04:40 PM | #12 |
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bumpity bump goes the subwoofer...anyone else have thoughts on these topics???
-mykr. |
04-08-2002, 04:55 PM | #13 |
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Let me know when those brake lines are going in; I could probably do them myself, but I'd like to watch it at least once first.
I changed the rear diff fluid last yesterday; not too messy, and very easy of you have something to catch the oil. I found some Mobil 1 oil; it was the only one at the auto store that didn't state it was good for "topping off" LSDs, and could be used for the whole thing. There were some small, thick deposit spots around the bolts, but no metal bits on the magnet, so I think everything's okay. |
04-08-2002, 05:18 PM | #14 |
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Mike:
I'm with Dave (hillman) on the brake fluid. Don't waste your money on the expensive stuff. It has the higher boiling points but it is way too hygroscopic (absorbs the H20) and so it "gets old" way too quickly. Even if you flush at Jeremy's recommended 2yr 24k interval, its not enough. The motul, redline and the like cost you way more than the "price per bottle factor" when you consider you are flushing maybe twice as often or more to maintain the fluid integrity. For people who are racing, this doesn't matter much. Cost isn't typically an issue and its expected that you will be changing the fluid often enough that the water absorbtion doesn't even come into play. Different story when you drive a street car and you'd like to have reasonable intervals between fluid changes. You should be able to get a "ford discount" on Dave's suggestion anyhow, right? If you're worried about motul stickers, you've got bigger issues than we can deal with in this forum anyhow. I would always turn the rotors when you change the pads. Other wise you have to bed them twice, if you will. Bed the new pads and then bed the rotors when you get them done. Just do them both and take it easy the first few miles. If you are doing the brakes yourself, just make sure you have a c-clamp and a piece of wood handy to push the pistons back when you install the new pads. The rest is easy as pie. If you do it on any other day than a Sunday, I can help you out too. Tires? A520s. And get the 205/50s- BIG TIME. The shorter/stiffer sidewall will be well worth the increase in steering feel and you'll notice that your speedo is not as far off as you'd think. The stiffer sidewalled tires don't deflect as much and so you actually end up riding on very close to the same overall diameter as 55s. Mileage? You are only going to get one summer out of them anyway. (you drive miles like I do) I'd rather use set of a520s right up to the bitter end than get the Kumhos and have 10-12k left on them at the end of the summer. They are hardly worth keeping for the next year. Might as well buy the stickies and have fun. Andrew may have some words for me saying this but in the class you are considering, I would think of the Dunlop SP8000s. An older design, no doubt, but all the qualities you are looking for. What's up with Dr. Valentine? Shoot a brother a PM or call me on my cell. K. |
04-08-2002, 06:55 PM | #15 |
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Kyle - I think I'm gonna go Bridgestone RE730 because I'd rather have them last me 2 summers than just one. I've got my Hakkas to put on and off EIGHT times a winter because of our crappy on and off winters of late.
discount @ Ford...come to think of it I do get a discount if I tell them I work there...well the time I got a corner lamp for my Ranger they gave me wholesale, I guess it's worth a try huh??? I'll probably just get some HD Ford brake fluid tomorrow or Wednesday. Saturday's for the this month are bad...this weekend scooter track day @ Norway IL Kart track. mext weekend it's up North in MI with my GF, weekend of the 27th is a scooter race in Columbus OH. What do you got going on on a Sunday anyway??? It's not like you do stuff with your GF on those days anyway... As for Dr. Valentine...it's getting ordered this week. I'll call ya later and we'll figure it out. -mykr. Last edited by mykrrrr; 04-09-2002 at 09:34 AM. |
04-08-2002, 07:14 PM | #16 |
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I was just wondering if youd seen this here sticky Mr.8 made in the tire/brake forum...
http://www.i-club.com/forums/showthr...hreadid=159647 |
04-08-2002, 10:08 PM | #17 | |
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