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Old 04-15-2017, 03:14 PM   #51
A-man07
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A shot to show off the Cusco sway bar, perfect fitment on that, the JDM aluminum LCA and also visible is the wrapped Cobb downpipe:

[/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/WCmMze]

So finally got this thing rolling after 7 weeks of work. Started to align it and as soon I loosened the pass. outer tie rod lock nut the grease boot cracked. Replaced with an AC Delco unit. The Koni inserts are really nice. Even at fractional turns off full soft they lend excellent damping control. May turn them up a bit when I get decent tires. Also my faith in Group N rubber is renewed. There is no longer any drive line slop and the suspension feels tight and controlled without being loud or harsh. All in all it is exactly the way I wanted it.

The engine feels much better too with new up pipe and downpipe. Spools quicker and obviously makes more power though that is not really the goal. Clearly it is running more efficiently. I've decided I do not like the melon cannon muffler though (seen below) and will almost surely just get the Cobb catback.


Lots of smaller and medium projects to follow. I left off the front subframe and will likely go to LiFePO4 battery for weight reduction on the front end though I have to give props to the current battery which cranked the car right up after 7 weeks of sitting. Still have to fix the A/C - it's getting hot down here - plus much more.
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Last edited by A-man07; 07-15-2017 at 06:48 AM.
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Old 04-15-2017, 11:22 PM   #52
JarHarms
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Good job. Isn't it nice when all that work pays off.
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Old 04-25-2017, 09:26 PM   #53
A-man07
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JarHarms View Post
Good job. Isn't it nice when all that work pays off.
Yes, thank you, very nice.

After driving it for awhile it is clear the front needs to be tighter but I knew it would be. I have that Whiteline brace and the TiC fender braces which will help a lot. After a few days I got a CEL and figured it was likely the heat sensor code from the up pipe swap so I changed it out with a new resistor and seated it better and reset the ECU but the CEL came back. Supposed to get my new OBD II reader tomorrow. Could easily be an O2 sensor.

Bought some engine bay bling. Killer Bee radiator shroud and alt cover and a super pricey JDM STi oil cap:

103_0234


They are bright red and not pink as they show in the pic. I like them but black may have been better. I really like the oil cap so screw it, I spent too much. Wont be the last time.

It sounds like there's a more pronounced whirring sound at the front of the engine now which I suspect is just pulley noise resonating louder through the metal shroud. I'll try to come up with some rubber isolators. I cleaned up the bay with some Simple Green spray foaming cleaner but can't recommend it. The foam doesn't last long, dries quickly and leaves dirt stains which you must respray with cleaner and hose off quickly. The bay is much cleaner though. Moving forward.

Last edited by A-man07; 07-10-2017 at 09:30 PM.
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Old 04-28-2017, 07:09 AM   #54
A-man07
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P0420 which of course is the code for low catalyst efficiency. I just wasn't thinking as I've every time I've changed a downpipe from stock to aftermarket I've flashed to stage 2 with a Cobb AP. So now I'll live with a CEL until I get a tune.

I want to change out the SPT intake back to the stock intake system but I have to find the airbox from STi in my storage shed to do so. The arm on the SPT intake is aluminum and gets so hot you can't touch it. Hardly worth having.

Having done the suspension it only magnifies how abysmal the stock steering is. The combo of the slow witted rack and the rubber coupler bushing is all but intolerable. Will look for an 04 STi rack to swap. I suppose I'm not above buying a new one if necessary.

Also I bought 4 tiny rubber washers which isolated the Killer Bee alt cover enough to all but eliminate the alternator noise.
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Old 04-30-2017, 01:28 PM   #55
A-man07
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Turn in Concepts fender braces (you can see above the wiring harness there):
103_0238

The TiC braces are the best design IMO and they certainly make a difference. Bit of a tedious install but not bad. Also, smells like I have a small exhaust leak preturbo. Have to track that down.

Last edited by A-man07; 07-10-2017 at 09:27 PM.
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Old 05-01-2017, 10:51 PM   #56
IHaveAnSTI_
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Damn thats nice
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Old 05-07-2017, 10:45 PM   #57
A-man07
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^Thanks.

A minor thing: I painted the center caps back to an OEM silver which makes the car look not as old and weathered. You can see the difference compared to the photo of the car in post #1



But I also happen to be browsing JDM Nagoya today and they had a set of Rays RE B51 gold 5 spoke wheels from a JDM S201 in 17x7 that looked to be in good shape so I bought them. I'd been having a hard time finding a gold 5 spoke wheel that met my criteria for this car but these will be great. Eventually they will wear Michelin Super Sports in 215/45/17.


Last edited by A-man07; 07-15-2017 at 07:08 AM.
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Old 05-08-2017, 09:14 AM   #58
JarHarms
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I think those wheels will work nicely with your wagon. Nice snag and I hope to see how it looks after you get them installed.
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Old 05-14-2017, 07:17 PM   #59
A-man07
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JarHarms View Post
I think those wheels will work nicely with your wagon. Nice snag and I hope to see how it looks after you get them installed.
Thanks, the wheels came in and look even better in person so I'm pretty stoked.

Today I decided to relocate the cruise control module per the IAG write up that's online which frees up a lot of space for a new Saikou Michi catch can set up. Just need to order it. Also changed to the stock air box which I had left over from my 07 STi. Before and after:
103_0241
103_0243

Also ordered an FHI titanium strut bar from JDM Nagoya because the sticker was nearly perfect. I made it up to wife by buying her an 2016 Expedition EL which she's been wanting for some time to haul around our Brady Bunch family and all their crap. She loves it so I'm good on my car purchases. Hard to believe the 1st year depreciation on those Expeditions, on the order of 33%.

Also I believe I found my exhaust leak where the crosspipe meets the pass. header. I twisted off one of the bolt heads in that position when I did the up pipe install and used a temp bolt of the wrong size which I forgot about. Have to order a new one. And it turns out I do have a tiny bit of oil seepage that accumulates on one of the bolts/plugs on the bottom of the oil pump but otherwise I'm not using any oil and getting 28 mpg so feeling alright about that.

Last edited by A-man07; 07-10-2017 at 09:12 PM.
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Old 05-15-2017, 03:58 AM   #60
KeithS05RS2.5
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That relocation looks great. Really want to do it. How secure is the module after moving it down, per the instructions it looks like its only held on by one bolt ...
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Old 05-15-2017, 07:03 AM   #61
A-man07
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KeithS05RS2.5 View Post
That relocation looks great. Really want to do it. How secure is the module after moving it down, per the instructions it looks like its only held on by one bolt ...
Yes it's only one bolt on the modified "black" bracket but it is solid. The only way to mount it in the modified position will force you to angle it up in the front which is good because it keeps the cable pulling in a linear direction so there wont be any torque on the module. Also, I used a reciprocating saw to cut the bracket which is a violent way to cut a small piece and I had to file the cut edges. A hacksaw would've been better.
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Old 05-20-2017, 02:36 PM   #62
A-man07
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Spent some time this morning using a product called Mother's Speed Clay 2.0 which is an alternative to a traditional clay bar and very fast and easy. The paint on the wagon is in pretty rough shape and while I didn't expect miracles the Speed Clay worked pretty well to brighten up the finish and remove some stains. Compare the hood to the fender:

103_0244

This came in. Label looking good:

103_0246

Typically the labels are beat to hell so I jumped on this one. The aluminum ends are always oxidized so I'm going to prep them and paint the ends wrinkle black.

Will be ordering a Tomei turbo inlet, a Samco ancillary hose kit to replace vacuum hoses and Saikou Michi catch can. That'll be a fun day.

Last edited by A-man07; 07-10-2017 at 09:05 PM.
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Old 05-23-2017, 01:00 PM   #63
Bikelok
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Nice car and good work.
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Old 06-03-2017, 06:19 PM   #64
2002wrexx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A-man07 View Post
Turn in Concepts fender braces (you can see above the wiring harness there):


The TiC braces are the best design IMO and they certainly make a difference. Bit of a tedious install but not bad. Also, smells like I have a small exhaust leak preturbo. Have to track that down.
how do you like the TiC braces? was looking at a pair for my sedan
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Old 06-03-2017, 08:02 PM   #65
A-man07
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikelok View Post
Nice car and good work.
Thanks man.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2002wrexx View Post
how do you like the TiC braces? was looking at a pair for my sedan
They're the best and on these old GD's they make an amazing difference.

Today was A/C repair day:

[IMG]103_0247

I didn't realize the pic was blurry. Anyway it's blowing cold but it didn't charge to spec. There will be more work down the line.

I'd been reading more about the tranny cocktail and specifically regarding the Redline Shockproof. It's not the best thing for synchros nor for the gears over the long term. I'm changing it soon to Redline 75W-90 NS which does not have the added friction modifiers. Redline states it is the correct fluid for this tranny. We'll see.

Last edited by A-man07; 07-11-2017 at 06:50 AM.
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Old 06-10-2017, 06:08 PM   #66
A-man07
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If I had done a bit more reading I would've realized the Redline 75W-90NS is in fact not a good choice for these old 5 speeds which was demonstrated today driving in stop and go traffic in upper 80's temps. More difficult getting into first than even the cocktail and bit notchier overall. Looks like the best bet will be Motul Gear 300 75W-90 though if my research is correct Gearbox 80W-90 HD would be just as good, perhaps a bit better or even Shell Spirax S5 ATE 75W-90 but these latter two I can't find for sale anywhere.

A/C job is hanging in there though I was bit worried about the O-ring on the high pressure line where it connects to the compressor. I'd ordered what I believed to be the correct part # for a new one but was sent two of the same O-rings that are clearly meant for the other end end of the high pressure hose at the condenser. That one is too big for the compressor end so I reused one of the two I had. We'll see if it lasts.
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Old 06-16-2017, 06:26 PM   #67
A-man07
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Last Sunday the battery died. The po told me told it was 4 years old when he sold it to me which was fine since I wanted to swap out anyway for a Shorai LFX36L3-BS12 5lb LiFePO4 lightweight battery. 30# or so weight loss. I've reused the stock battery mount but will get something aftermarket soon:

103_0248

Last edited by A-man07; 07-11-2017 at 06:55 AM.
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Old 06-17-2017, 04:37 PM   #68
A-man07
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More good works today. I saw a pic the other day of one of the FHI titanium bars with the ends painted and I didn't care for it. So I just decided to clean it and mount it up. I also mounted the Whiteline KSB 700 H brace under the car. As I mentioned previously, this brace is designed for the GC bodies and you cannot use the stock GD frame brace with it. In fact you must cut off the mounting the brackets for the stock brace that are welded on the subframe where the forward mount for the LCA is located. It uses the bolts of the LCA at the forward mounting position and the outboard tranverse bushing bolt.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/WyJxVG]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/W33ris]

The aluminum brace only weighs 3# but when bolted in place provides remarkable stiffness to the front of the car. Driving it after the install, with the FHI strut tower brace as well, I couldn't get over how much stiffer the front is and more responsive even with everything else I've already done. As an added bonus the suspension and body is much quieter and no longer thumps and rattles.

Also attached the STi intercooler splitter I had lying around from my 07 STi.

Last edited by A-man07; 07-11-2017 at 06:59 AM.
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Old 06-17-2017, 11:23 PM   #69
KeithS05RS2.5
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Good stuff. Ive been considering getting an H brace, but have been holding off because i wasn't sure if it would clear my DP ... doesn't look like you have an issue there.
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Old 06-19-2017, 09:51 AM   #70
kenliu84
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PrecisionTuned/TiCSuspen.

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Nice rebuild.

How has the new battery been so far? And why this choice among the other lightweight options out there?
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Old 06-19-2017, 10:02 AM   #71
A-man07
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KeithS05RS2.5 View Post
Good stuff. Ive been considering getting an H brace, but have been holding off because i wasn't sure if it would clear my DP ... doesn't look like you have an issue there.
No it clears everything but it you are real low it might not work because it hangs down a bit though this is part of it's geometry which makes it function so well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kenliu84 View Post
Nice rebuild.

How has the new battery been so far? And why this choice among the other lightweight options out there?
Only in for a few days now but I chose this battery as I have the same one in my 07 STi for > 3 years now and it has been flawless.
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Old 06-19-2017, 01:05 PM   #72
GraffitiRR
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Looking good!
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Old 06-19-2017, 08:46 PM   #73
wrXmon
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You did a great job with the mods so far on your car, man. Keep it up. I also like the fact that your journal is easy to follow.
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Old 06-25-2017, 08:55 PM   #74
A-man07
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrXmon View Post
You did a great job with the mods so far on your car, man. Keep it up. I also like the fact that your journal is easy to follow.
Thanks I appreciate that.

I'd committed this weekend to changing the turbo inlet. I'd gotten a Tomei and it went in relatively easy, well kind of anyway. The problem was again the hardened rubber hoses. The passenger side breather hose that's connected to the rails on the front of the intercooler and the head wound up being completely off the barb. Of course you can't see it because there's so much crap in the way but between that and the compromised inlet I've been able to correct another breathing issue. I did manage to break off the top nipple on the little plastic Evap solenoid so I have to order a new one.

I included a pic of the crankcase vent to show how I ran the catch can lines. PCV is deleted. I was hoping my dual can set up from Saikou Michi would be here but no luck.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/W33gQE]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/Vm5bXy]

Last edited by A-man07; 07-11-2017 at 07:04 AM.
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Old 06-26-2017, 04:30 PM   #75
oaklandish_WRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A-man07 View Post
If I had done a bit more reading I would've realized the Redline 75W-90NS is in fact not a good choice for these old 5 speeds which was demonstrated today driving in stop and go traffic in upper 80's temps. More difficult getting into first than even the cocktail and bit notchier overall. Looks like the best bet will be Motul Gear 300 75W-90 though if my research is correct Gearbox 80W-90 HD would be just as good, perhaps a bit better or even Shell Spirax S5 ATE 75W-90 but these latter two I can't find for sale anywhere.
Motul GBox 2-pack on Amazon, $25
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