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Old 02-20-2018, 11:37 PM   #1
birdmanbro
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Default Cel P0327

Has anyone had this code before for knock sensor 1 low input? I'm thinking the sensor crapped out or the connection to the sensor is shot (ie failed connector or wiring). Has anyone tried replacing the knock sensor on the FA20? I didn't see any posts about this. I can't take it to the dealer since I'm stage 2+ and I'm definitely not returning to stock for a sensor since that's all I've seen people recommend on here.

I've also seen some people say you MIGHT have to take off the intake manifold to access the knock sensors on the FA20. I know that the EJ, you HAVE to take off the manifold to access the sensors so is the FA20 the same? Do I need 2 new intake manifold gaskets?

So before you troll me, I've searched the forum for this code and found nothing helpful on the FA20 and nothing helpful on google. Can't find any GOOD pictures of knock sensors in regards to having the manifold connected at an aerial view for the FA20, only EJ motors.
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Old 02-20-2018, 11:53 PM   #2
killadawg
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I had that code as well.. for both knock sensors.. mine seems to have come from moisture getting into the connection from harness to the knock sensor.. once the car warmed up and dried the moisture all went away as did the codes.. I actually replaced mine at one point and then days later got the same codes.. yes they are under your intake manifold. There are actually a couple threads here about that.. good luck.
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Old 02-21-2018, 07:59 AM   #3
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I just had that exact code pop up a month ago, and it was in fact the knock sensor that had failed.

I had the dealer fix it under warranty since my car is stock. The tech I was working with at the time was kind enough to write up all the info he could for me. Essentially, if you want to test it, they should have 500 ohms of resistance if they're good. Mine tested out at 411 ohms, so it was junk.
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Old 02-21-2018, 09:25 AM   #4
birdmanbro
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Thanks appreciate the info
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Old 02-21-2018, 09:44 AM   #5
killadawg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CGumina View Post
I just had that exact code pop up a month ago, and it was in fact the knock sensor that had failed.

I had the dealer fix it under warranty since my car is stock. The tech I was working with at the time was kind enough to write up all the info he could for me. Essentially, if you want to test it, they should have 500 ohms of resistance if they're good. Mine tested out at 411 ohms, so it was junk.
Here is from the factory service manual:


upload images



upload images
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Old 02-21-2018, 10:47 AM   #6
JRowland
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Default Cel P0327

Dealing with this right now. The part is on order and the dealer is handling it. My car is stock as well. I was getting random CELs (p0327) but also had a bad battery that has since been replaced. I have not gotten a CEL since the new battery but itís only been a few days. The dealer said I would need to leave the car so Iím assuming it takes them a little bit of time.
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Old 02-21-2018, 12:44 PM   #7
birdmanbro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killadawg View Post
Here is from the factory service manual:


upload images



upload images
Where did you get the service manual from? Like where online?
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Old 02-21-2018, 12:44 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killadawg View Post
Here is from the factory service manual:
[url=https://ibb.co/iTWVcc]
That's the good stuff right there. Thanks for sharing this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JRowland View Post
Dealing with this right now. The part is on order and the dealer is handling it. My car is stock as well. I was getting random CELs (p0327) but also had a bad battery that has since been replaced. I have not gotten a CEL since the new battery but itís only been a few days. The dealer said I would need to leave the car so Iím assuming it takes them a little bit of time.
It took the dealer roughly half a day to do my car. If I'm correct in thinking, they need to pop the intercooler off to get to the knock sensors. Not sure about the intake manifold.
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Old 02-21-2018, 08:55 PM   #9
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ive been getting this a lot this winter and its pretty annoying. However, I don't really know what I can do about it because by the time I get to a dealer its gone and I really don't feel like going to the dealer In the first place every time this happens (4 times in the last month or so)
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Old 02-21-2018, 09:51 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moarboost16 View Post
ive been getting this a lot this winter and its pretty annoying. However, I don't really know what I can do about it because by the time I get to a dealer its gone and I really don't feel like going to the dealer In the first place every time this happens (4 times in the last month or so)
If you donít clear the code it is stored in the ECU. I didnít bother to read mine because warranty. The day I went in the CEL was not lit but they still pulled the stored code and Iím guessing tested the knock sensor and determined it is faulty.
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Old 02-22-2018, 09:39 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by birdmanbro View Post
Where did you get the service manual from? Like where online?
google this "wrxinfo service manuals" its the first link I think

you will find what you need ;-)

good luck
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Old 05-05-2019, 09:05 PM   #12
Vacca Rabite
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I have started getting the p0327 CEL on wet/foggy days (which has been a LOT lately....).
I have a new knock sensor on order.
Trying to figure out how to get to it. Easy on an NA car. Can anyone confirm if the Intercooler AND the intake manifold have to come off?

Zach
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Old 05-10-2019, 01:56 AM   #13
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Old 05-10-2019, 02:03 AM   #14
J_ODIE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vacca Rabite View Post
I have started getting the p0327 CEL on wet/foggy days (which has been a LOT lately....).
I have a new knock sensor on order.
Trying to figure out how to get to it. Easy on an NA car. Can anyone confirm if the Intercooler AND the intake manifold have to come off?

Zach
Read all of the previous posts in this thread and the one I just linked...get a factory service manual, you will need it. P0332 is for the other knock sensor so expand your search including that and it will have good info for you as well. Learn how to ohm a sensor to find resistance if you dont already know and get a multimeter. Also, its not just a replacement. The service manual pounts out the sensor needs to be oriented at certain way relative to the block. Im guessing this angle allows it to hear better where its supposed to. The Bank 1 sensor (P0327) needs to have the intake manifold at least pushed out of the way I believe. The FSM tells all.
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Old 05-10-2019, 02:05 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CGumina View Post
I just had that exact code pop up a month ago, and it was in fact the knock sensor that had failed.

I had the dealer fix it under warranty since my car is stock. The tech I was working with at the time was kind enough to write up all the info he could for me. Essentially, if you want to test it, they should have 500 ohms of resistance if they're good. Mine tested out at 411 ohms, so it was junk.
It's 560 with a + or - of 28 ohms
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Old 05-10-2019, 02:14 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vacca Rabite View Post
I have started getting the p0327 CEL on wet/foggy days (which has been a LOT lately....).
I have a new knock sensor on order.
Trying to figure out how to get to it. Easy on an NA car. Can anyone confirm if the Intercooler AND the intake manifold have to come off?

Zach
Not saying you will...but if you dont bother replacing the sensor at the angle the FSM specifies, you are better not replacing the sensor at all. When the sensor goes bad...the ECU pulls around 4 degrees of timing every time you touch the throttle. This is because it knows it is deaf to knock because the sensor is bad. If you put the sensor in the wrong way it may not hear the cylinders it is supposed to be listening to but the ECU thinks it can so it wont pull timing. Meaning knock could be happening, the sensor cant hear it so the ECU dosent know about it, no timing is pulled and Knock does what it does.
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Old 05-16-2019, 01:31 PM   #17
Vacca Rabite
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I did this job over the weekend.
The manifold had to come off, and a big foam rubber insulator had to be moved aside to get to the sensor. Even mostly knowing where this sensor was, it took a bit of searching to find it, and then about an hour of cussing before I jacked up the car and started draining coolant to remove the manifold.

With the manifold removed, this piece of foam rubber needs to move to find the sensor


With the rubber moved aside, the sensor is easy to get to (screwdriver is pointing to it)


The underside of the sensor was corroded. Pic below shows where the mating surface was worn away over the past 110K miles.


I polished up the block with some scotchbrite and cleaned all the dirt and debris out from the area.
Sensor went back on the same way it came off, no issues there. And I'm no longer getting CELs driving in the rain (which is everyday at this point...)

Yes, as noted by others, orientation matters. Thankfully the Subaru engineers have helped here by making the wire harness for this sensor short enough that it can only go back in the correct way. I can't speak for the other knock sensor - that one is still working and I did not touch it. But for this one, it would have been challenging to get the orientation wrong.

Once I sucked it up and stated pulling the manifold (i'm getting faster doing that) I was able to have the car put back together and test driving in about 90 minutes.

Zach
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Old 05-17-2019, 02:58 AM   #18
J_ODIE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vacca Rabite View Post
I did this job over the weekend.
The manifold had to come off, and a big foam rubber insulator had to be moved aside to get to the sensor. Even mostly knowing where this sensor was, it took a bit of searching to find it, and then about an hour of cussing before I jacked up the car and started draining coolant to remove the manifold.

With the manifold removed, this piece of foam rubber needs to move to find the sensor


With the rubber moved aside, the sensor is easy to get to (screwdriver is pointing to it)


The underside of the sensor was corroded. Pic below shows where the mating surface was worn away over the past 110K miles.


I polished up the block with some scotchbrite and cleaned all the dirt and debris out from the area.
Sensor went back on the same way it came off, no issues there. And I'm no longer getting CELs driving in the rain (which is everyday at this point...)

Yes, as noted by others, orientation matters. Thankfully the Subaru engineers have helped here by making the wire harness for this sensor short enough that it can only go back in the correct way. I can't speak for the other knock sensor - that one is still working and I did not touch it. But for this one, it would have been challenging to get the orientation wrong.

Once I sucked it up and stated pulling the manifold (i'm getting faster doing that) I was able to have the car put back together and test driving in about 90 minutes.

Zach
Very nice write up! I can relate to the suck it up and just remove what the manual says to remove situation you described.

The sensor on the other bank is pretty much the same as far as the wiring harness being very short and it only wanting to go back in a certain way bit it is possible to get outta spec with it. Even just a tad.

Hardest part for me (other banks sensor) was getting the bolt back in place without losing it. I used a magnetic wand to help but recently saw a trick using a piece of paper inside the socket to hold the bolt in place that would have helped much more. I havent had any issues yet with the other sensor( the one you are working on here). I have 26k miles on my 17. The sensor that failed on mine failed at approx 20k.

You do not need to pull the IM for the other sensor. Just Intercooler and throttlebody. The TB pipe is a botch to get back on correctly. If its off just a tad in terms of rotation, you will have a hard time fitting the IC back right.
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Old 05-17-2019, 03:05 AM   #19
J_ODIE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vacca Rabite View Post
I did this job over the weekend.
The manifold had to come off, and a big foam rubber insulator had to be moved aside to get to the sensor. Even mostly knowing where this sensor was, it took a bit of searching to find it, and then about an hour of cussing before I jacked up the car and started draining coolant to remove the manifold.

With the manifold removed, this piece of foam rubber needs to move to find the sensor


With the rubber moved aside, the sensor is easy to get to (screwdriver is pointing to it)


The underside of the sensor was corroded. Pic below shows where the mating surface was worn away over the past 110K miles.


I polished up the block with some scotchbrite and cleaned all the dirt and debris out from the area.
Sensor went back on the same way it came off, no issues there. And I'm no longer getting CELs driving in the rain (which is everyday at this point...)

Yes, as noted by others, orientation matters. Thankfully the Subaru engineers have helped here by making the wire harness for this sensor short enough that it can only go back in the correct way. I can't speak for the other knock sensor - that one is still working and I did not touch it. But for this one, it would have been challenging to get the orientation wrong.

Once I sucked it up and stated pulling the manifold (i'm getting faster doing that) I was able to have the car put back together and test driving in about 90 minutes.

Zach
And...how did you add the pics to the post?
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Old 05-17-2019, 08:59 AM   #20
Vacca Rabite
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_ODIE View Post
And...how did you add the pics to the post?
Hah! Same way Iíve been doing it for the past 15 years here. Save them to my flickr account and use image tags with the URL. I am not on there near as much as I used to be so I donít know if there is a more new-tangled way of doing it. But old school works pretty well.

Zach
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Old 05-17-2019, 09:22 AM   #21
J_ODIE
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Huh..i am doing it with imgur but they only show up as a link
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Old 05-17-2019, 09:25 AM   #22
TrashyMG
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Originally Posted by J_ODIE View Post
Huh..i am doing it with imgur but they only show up as a link
You either need to click the Insert Image button and paste the link or use the BB code below.

Code:
[IMG]Your_Image_Link.jpg[/IMG]
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Old 05-17-2019, 05:57 PM   #23
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Ah thx!
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