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Old 07-13-2019, 01:15 PM   #1
stibias
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Default 2019 STi DIY oil change?

So I'm about to do my first oil change for my 2019 STi. I've been researching around and have been looking in the owner's manual but couldn't find answers to my questions so I decided to post them here:

1. I know that there is an undercarriage panel that needs to be removed in order to get to the oil filter. And the panel itself has screws and (pins?) that need to be removed. Does anyone have a layout of the undercarriage panel along with its screws and pins that need to be removed? I'm also interested in the amount of screws and pins there are incase I miss one.

2. What size tools should I be using in order to remove the screws and pins?

3. What torque should I be setting the screws and pins to when I put the panel back on?

4. What torque should I be setting the oil filter back onto?
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Old 07-13-2019, 02:23 PM   #2
littledrummerboy
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Lots of YouTube videos on changing oil on the 15+ so I suggest looking those to see.

It’s pretty intuitive if you just go under and look. 3 pop clips in each wheel well, 3 bolts (12mm iirc), 2 clip tab things at the back near the steering rack area and pull off the panel.

Torque for panel bolts is hand tighten. Seriously the service manual doesn’t list torque. Oil filter is a tight hand-tighten, but if you somehow really want to be technical I think it’s 8.9 for subaru blue filters and 10.3 ft-lb for the black ones. Oil plug is a hard hand-tighten (aka. 34.3 ft-lb)

Last edited by littledrummerboy; 07-13-2019 at 02:30 PM.
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Old 07-13-2019, 04:59 PM   #3
Scorpius
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IIRC there are six plastic push pins and three bolts which are either 12 or 13mm. There are also two U clips that attach the under panel in the rear. It's pretty self explanatory once you get under your vehicle.

A flat head screw driver is all I use to remove the plastic push pins. Pop up the center section then remove the entire unit.

OEM blue Subaru oil filter is 7/8ths of a turn AFTER the gasket makes contact with the block.
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Old 07-13-2019, 06:13 PM   #4
stibias
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Cool, thanks for replies guys. Where do you suggest putting the jackstands?
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Old 07-13-2019, 06:43 PM   #5
littledrummerboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stibias View Post
Cool, thanks for replies guys. Where do you suggest putting the jackstands?
At the jacking points shown in the owner’s manual. You can lift the front of the car with a floor jack at the front centre plate (just by the rear panel bolt you’re taking off when it is up), then place the jack stands by the jacking points and lower the car on them. On a related note, you can lift the rear up using the rear diff for stuff requiring the rear to be up (again place jack stands where appropriate).
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Old 07-13-2019, 06:56 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by littledrummerboy View Post
Lots of YouTube videos on changing oil on the 15+ so I suggest looking those to see.

It’s pretty intuitive if you just go under and look. 3 pop clips in each wheel well, 3 bolts (12mm iirc), 2 clip tab things at the back near the steering rack area and pull off the panel.

Torque for panel bolts is hand tighten. Seriously the service manual doesn’t list torque. Oil filter is a tight hand-tighten, but if you somehow really want to be technical I think it’s 8.9 for subaru blue filters and 10.3 ft-lb for the black ones. Oil plug is a hard hand-tighten (aka. 34.3 ft-lb)
+1
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Old 07-14-2019, 12:13 AM   #7
jasonwrx86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stibias View Post
Cool, thanks for replies guys. Where do you suggest putting the jackstands?
ramps are so much easier to use.
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Old 07-14-2019, 10:40 AM   #8
stibias
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonwrx86 View Post
ramps are so much easier to use.
I was actually considering this as well. Which ramps do you use?
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Old 07-14-2019, 01:09 PM   #9
08redWRX
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I bought the advance auto parts one and they work great on the stock height. Once I lower i'll have to make extensions to get on them but for stock height car you can't beat them for the price
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Old 07-14-2019, 04:14 PM   #10
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There are three bolts, two at the front and one at the rear center, and require a 12mm socket to remove. These bolts are "shoulder bolts" and when reinstalling, do so by hand as not to damage the opening in the under-panel. Tighten to snug.

There are six push-lock clips, two at each side center lower, and one at each side center upper. You will need a panel removal tool or similar. The center pins are to be popped out a few millimeters, and then the base of the clip pulled out with the center pins still in place.

There are two plastic square shaped "c" clips, rear, that hold the panel to the cross-member. Pull down slightly and slide rearward, keeping parallel to the car/ground.

The oil-pan drain-plug utilizes a crush-washer. If this is the first time changing the oil, the crush-washer will either be stuck to the pan or to the drain-plug. It is recommended to use a new crush-washer. Or as an option, install a Fumoto oil drain-valve.

I use heavy-duty Rhino Ramps for light-duty trucks and two to four pieces of 2" x 12" boards to elevate the front to get onto the ramps (I have a lip).
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Old 07-14-2019, 06:58 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stibias View Post
I was actually considering this as well. Which ramps do you use?
I run RaceRamps.

RR-56
RR EX-12 (extensions)


For winter under cars I hibernate RR-FS (Flatstoppers)
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Old 07-14-2019, 09:53 PM   #12
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I didn’t want to spend that much on Race Ramps, so I ended up making my own out of spare 2x4s. No scraping on my lip with a really low approach angle (ramp length is 6.5 ft long), raised up nice and high with 6 stepped levels, and each side is 14” wide to fit fat tires while still having some safety wiggle room on either side of the tire. I also made them 2-piece interlocking so I can slide out the rear 3.5 ft for side access. Basically DIY 2-piece Race Ramps+extenders at a fraction of the cost.

Oil changes are definitely faster to do on ramps and I feel safer being under there with my setup than using my jack stands... they’ve done their job safely too, but still... now I only use jack stands for things requiring the wheels to be off.

Last edited by littledrummerboy; 07-14-2019 at 10:20 PM.
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Old 07-14-2019, 10:50 PM   #13
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I think you need to visit your local regional forum here and/or find locals on facebook and ask for help personally.
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Old 07-15-2019, 04:23 PM   #14
xtremsiege2
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I think you should bring it to your local dealer and have them do it and watch the tech. I'm sure they won't mind letting you watch them work on it as long as you stay out of way.

Honestly, it sounds like you picked the wrong car to learn on. Its very easy, but its very expensive considering what can do wrong and not always for everyone.
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Old 07-16-2019, 04:22 PM   #15
crick0234
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youtube vids of underskirt tray. typically 3 screws, two tabs in the back, and a plastic rivet behind each front wheel well area. It's not too hard if u have the car up and just study the undertray a bit.

the new filter, i typically hand tighten. usually goes about 7/8 a turn when the gasket makes contact. dont really need to tighten to specific torque (like it says 10 or 11Nm, i'd just hand tighten cuz finding the right size oil filter wrench was a PITA, it slips a lot too - hand tighten is fine, don't overthink it).

the screw torque for the undercarriage, meh, i hand tighten again with a 3/8 ratchet... probably around 4-5 ft lbs i'm guessing? maybe 8? i dunno; just tight with a 3/8 ratchet. the rivets themselves dont need torque, they just pop on and off.
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Old 07-18-2019, 10:52 AM   #16
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Rhyno ramps are very cheap and durable.. I have been using them for over a year now...
Here's a random youtube video of someone using them..

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