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Old 09-13-2004, 04:49 AM   #1
RyansJDMgc8
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Default Clutch pedal stays to the floor when car's hot

When it is really hot outside and I've been driving my 01 RS for a while, my clutch pedal stays closer to the floor when I am not touching it. (Approx 2 inches from floor) but the clutch is not activated. Then when the car cools down the clutch pedal comes back up to where it is normally at.

Maybe a vaccum leak?
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Old 09-13-2004, 07:10 AM   #2
Mulder
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Nothing to do with vacuum. There is a problem with the clutch hydraulic system, either the master or slave cylinder is bad and loses pressure when it gets hot. The proper solution would be to replace both cylinders.
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Old 09-13-2004, 07:15 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mulder
Nothing to do with vacuum. There is a problem with the clutch hydraulic system, either the master or slave cylinder is bad and loses pressure when it gets hot. The proper solution would be to replace both cylinders.
^^^^^
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Old 09-13-2004, 08:02 AM   #4
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Sounds like you are boiling the clutch fluid. Bleed the system to get rid of any air out of the system and check the lines to see if there are near any hot part that would cook the fluid.
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Old 09-13-2004, 08:09 AM   #5
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What he ^^ said, bleed the clutch line fbefore you start throwing parts at it.
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Old 09-13-2004, 08:28 AM   #6
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By all means try bleeding it first. But, in normal driving, even in hot weather, this should not happen. The fluid in the clutch system isn't going to boil like brake fluid can with repeated high-speed stops, as there isn't the same heat transfer into the clutch hydraulic system as there is with the brakes. Bleeding might help if the fluid is contaminated with water, but if this has happened there is still a problem since a healthy hydraulic system should not allow air or water to enter.
You can take a close look around the rubber boot on both the master and slave for any leakage, which would be a definite indication of a bad cylinder. The master cylinder pushrod and boot can be found under the dash behind the pedals, the slave is on the transmission.
When you bleed it drain the old fluid into a clear container and take a good look at it, if it looks dark it should be flushed completely, in fact this should be done anyway. If there is water in it you will know because it will separate in the container.
Usually when there are symptoms like what you are experiencing it is a very good sign that one or both of the cylinders are weak and will eventually fail completely. Even if bleeding appears to temporarily correct the problem it will most likely return in the near future. This is why I would recommend replacing the cylinders when this occurs, in my experience it is a fully justified repair.
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Old 09-13-2004, 10:31 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mulder
but if this has happened there is still a problem since a healthy hydraulic system should not allow air or water to enter.
I was at the dealer the other day to pick up a PCV valve and asked them a question about my mushy clutch which I bled this weekend. They told me contaminaton of the system was possible even with a healty system. They said that it was possible for air or water to get into the system even if there was nothing wrong with the actual parts.
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Old 09-13-2004, 11:02 AM   #8
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Possible, perhaps. But contamination is usually a sign that the seals in the cylinders are weak. Since failure of this system will render the car essentially undriveable, and this is not a particularly difficult or expensive repair, IMO it is prudent to change the parts.
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Old 09-13-2004, 02:33 PM   #9
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I don't see any leaking what so ever..... This sucks.
Is there any upgrades for the master/slave cylinder on an 01 RS????
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Old 09-13-2004, 03:28 PM   #10
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You won't necessarily see any external leaking, but if you do it's a sure sign the cylinder is NG. What usually happens when there is no visible leak is that the internal seals in the cylinders break down so they don't hold pressure, hence the soft or sticking pedal.
I don't know of any upgrade parts for the hydraulics, just the OEM ones.
BTW if you are in the habit of keeping the car in gear with the clutch down while stopped at lights, etc. this will wear them out faster.
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Old 09-13-2004, 03:44 PM   #11
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The clutch pedal has a spring assist. When you depress the pedal during bleeding it will stay on the floor. Having said that, it seems like you have air in the system or internal leaking that is present when the clutch m/c is hot.....
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Old 09-13-2004, 09:28 PM   #12
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I usually take it out of gear so I can rest my clutch foot when I stop.
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Old 09-14-2004, 07:08 PM   #13
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my 2001 Outback did this a few times. Each time, it was hot outside and I was driving in heavy traffic...I would have to reach down and pull the clutch up with my hand, then it would return to normal operation. Of course, the dealer could find nothing wrong...

B
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Old 06-16-2005, 06:32 PM   #14
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Impreza GC8

My car is doing this too. I called the dealer and they said "you don't have clutch fluid, you have tranny fluid" and then he went on to tell me how my flywheel is causing the problem. Idiots.

I better take this problem into my own hands. Anybody know how much the slave cylinder costs new?
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Old 06-16-2005, 09:23 PM   #15
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there is a tsb on this - check scoobymods.
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2041
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Old 06-16-2005, 10:16 PM   #16
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Add another to the list.

My 2002 RS started acting up this year. I posted about it a few days ago. Initially I thought I had boiled the fluid, so I flushed and bled the system. No luck. After a heat soak, the clutch progressivly fades until it all but disappears.

I have found that if you stop and repeatedly pump the clutch, the pedal seems to come back a bit.

The real question... is this covered under the 6/60K powertrain or only the 3/36K bumper-to-bumper? I guess I'll be making a phone call tomorrow.
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Old 06-16-2005, 10:27 PM   #17
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It's not a powertrain component so it isn't covered. Even the clutch itself is only covered under the 3/36. This is not a very expensive repair though, especially if you do it yourself.
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Old 06-16-2005, 10:41 PM   #18
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Quote:
This is not a very expensive repair though, especially if you do it yourself.
For those with the issue looking for a DIY fix, a quick google search netted a slave cylinder for $51. I don't know the reputation of the seller, but they had the list price set at $71 and their price at $51. Good information if nothing else.
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Old 06-23-2005, 10:26 AM   #19
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Add me to the list of people w/ this problem, but my in is a little more complicated.

I've been having the exact same problem for about the past six months, but I've just kind of ignored it. Well about a week ago the same thing happened and I kept driving for about another 20 minutes. After that the clutch wouldn't release. I couldn't get into first or reverse, I had to rev match to shift and stay in 2nd-5th. I took it to a tranny place and they couldn't find any problem w/ the slave or master cylinders. The did bleed the system and I haven't had any problems yet, but I only drove from there back to my house (20 minute trip). Here's where it gets complicated, I have a much longer history of tranny problems and mods.

Exedy "street" clutch and lightened flywheel 2 years ago
Completely replaced tranny 10 months ago.
While the tranny was being replaced I decided to take some preventive measures and get the steel clutch snout sleeve kit installed.

The tranny shop said that it is possible that the throwout bearing is the culprit............only time will tell. I'll keep you all updated.
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Old 06-24-2005, 10:21 PM   #20
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Was just about to post this same question...

I have an 02 Impreza 2.5 RS...same thing has been happening to me recently...Started a few weeks ago, it was really hot outside and I was driving for about an hour in moderate traffic, but not too bad. I started to notice that i had to press the clutch more and more before it actually caught, it got to the point where i probably had about only an inch or so to where the clucth would actually "catch". But once i got to where i was going the car had a few hours to cooldown i guess, and the ride home was fine, it was nighttime by then...Since then it has done this to me a few times now.

Anyway, for the people who had this happen, whas it the cylnder or did it just need to be bled? I guess I'll bleed it first anyway, but was just curious if the actual cause and fix was found for any of you guys yet.

Thanks
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Old 06-27-2005, 11:30 AM   #21
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well, mine has been fine ever since it was bled, I hope it lasts.
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Old 06-27-2005, 11:51 AM   #22
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01 rs; i have had the same problem ever since the turbo install (added heat). Only when it is very hot and I have the a/c running will it happen though.

-Chav
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Old 06-28-2005, 06:21 AM   #23
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After my clutch/flywheel was replaced had exactly same thing but only when I was doing 1/4 runs...clutch refuse to fully return to norm position.Every day driving was good as gold!

Bleed the system and it was ok for 3 months.
Replace slave cylinder+cable + spring under pedal did the permanent fix.
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Old 07-14-2005, 12:55 PM   #24
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I did the TSB fix (slave cylinder and hose) posted above and everything is A-OK. Actually, everything is better than A-OK. The clutch has NEVER felt this good. Much firmer and the friction point is much more positive. Of course it also fixed the issue of the clutch sticking to the floor.

Just thought I'd give this one a free bump since there have been so many posts about clutch disengagment issues.
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Old 07-14-2005, 01:08 PM   #25
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I am one of those that has experienced this probelmas well. The clutch seems to "stick" when the RPM's are high. Normal driving everything is ok, but when I get on it, I have to reach down and pull it up off the floor. I have a new Master, Slave and braided clutch line sitting in my car right now as I am at work. Goind to stop by Advance on my way home and pick up some quality brake fluid for the repair. Will post up and let everyone know if this solves my issue.
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