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Old 04-24-2002, 07:13 PM   #1
nixima
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Default Custom sub box for max hatch space in WRX wagon

I knew there had to be a way to do it....
I removed the tray under the hatch flap and made a box that uses the tray space and the wheel well of the spare tire (yes, the spare is under the box). The box is about .35 ft^3 which is well below the recommended enclosure size for the 12" sub that I installed but I figured I would give it a try. The sub sounds awesome!!!

So, what do ya think?
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Old 04-24-2002, 07:14 PM   #2
nixima
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another shot...
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Old 04-24-2002, 07:38 PM   #3
2000vfr800
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This is EXACTLY what I am in the process of doing!!! Great minds think alike...

Just for confirmation, can you send me a few dimensions? Like the diameter of the box, the height of the top part, and the height from the bottom of the large top to the bottom of the box.

.35 is perfect for my sub (Image Dynamics IDQ10 DVC) so this solution is perfect.

Nice job!
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Old 04-24-2002, 08:55 PM   #4
nixima
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I used 1/2" MDF for all pieces. The box was actually a little high so I had to take the braces out of the hatch lid (not fun) in order to get the hatch lid to close all the way down. Here are the measurements for all pieces...

Diameter of the circle - 13 1/4"
Height of circle pieces - 3 7/8"
Length of the top - 22 1/2"
Length of the bottom - 27"
Length of the left side - 22 1/2"
Length of the right side - 23"
Height of the top side pieces - 1 3/8" (should be less to let hatch lid close tight)
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Old 04-24-2002, 11:37 PM   #5
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As an installer, and soon-to-be wrx owner, I'd like to offer a suggestion. If you aren't running much power, small enclosure size will work, just know you're not allowing the woofer to perform the way it was designed...meaning performance isn't close to projected from factory ratings, and you'll go through subs faster...alot faster. If you're hell-bent on 12's, be my guest, but in something like that, a 10" properly-built volume-matched box will hit alot better. Any other questions...you can email me.

[email protected]
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Old 04-25-2002, 02:48 PM   #6
Lawndart
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What if you get a flat tire?
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Old 04-25-2002, 03:13 PM   #7
nixima
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Lawndart:

The box was made to fit inside the spare tire well. So, the spare tire is still there under the box. I had to replace the factory bolt used to hold down the spare with a regular hex bolt so the box could go down inside the wheel furter. So if I get a flat, I just have to lift the sub box out and set it aside as I get out the spare.
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Old 04-25-2002, 10:39 PM   #8
shawndoggy
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That looks sweet! How much power are you running to the sub? Do the removed trays come out intact (i.e. for resale/trade in)?

I'm running a 10 with 130 watts in a sealed box and it sounds pretty good, but it sure would be nice to have all the room back.
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Old 04-26-2002, 09:46 AM   #9
nixima
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shawndoggy:

The tray came out totally intact. I just have to find a place to store the silly thing. There are a total of 4 storage compartments in the back, but I only had to remove the tray for the main big compartment.

I'm running a Rockford 500W 4-channel with the front channels running the front doors and the rear channels bridged running the sub. The sub is a DVC which I hooked in series to give me an 8 ohm load (didn't want to risk it at 2 ohms). I'm not really sure how much power I'm running to the sub. All I know is that it sounds pretty nice.
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Old 04-26-2002, 02:54 PM   #10
formulator
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if you think it sounds good now, you should hear it in a box that's the correct size. .35cu ft. is VERY small for a 12" sub. You need more like 1cubic foot. IMO you should get a 10" sub instead. even with a 10" sub most require more than .35.

BTW, is that .35 before or after driver displacment?
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Old 04-26-2002, 03:12 PM   #11
trhoppe
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wow.....NICE JOB!!!!!

I made one to fit the sedan, but I had to lose my spare.
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Old 04-26-2002, 03:21 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lawndart
What if you get a flat tire?
I have finals coming, but I should be able to post pics within the next couple weeks. But my friend opted for a can of foam tire filler and a 12" over the spare. (GOOD CHOICE! ) Basically, unless you're tired shreaded, you fill it up with the sealer foam, and it'll last until you can get somewhere to get it fixed, or until you can drive home and put on the spare...
...just remember drifting with a spare sucks big time...I wouldn't recommend it.
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Old 04-26-2002, 03:28 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by formulator
if you think it sounds good now, you should hear it in a box that's the correct size. .35cu ft. is VERY small for a 12" sub. You need more like 1cubic foot. IMO you should get a 10" sub instead. even with a 10" sub most require more than .35.

BTW, is that .35 before or after driver displacment?
The 8" woofer in the fosgate fanatic package in the new SE-R SPEC V has an internal volume of more than that...I think it's around .45 cu. in.

I give you props for working it out, but as someone who's "been there, blown that" (from testing new box designs, and extreme volume), I would rework the measurements. It might sound ok now, but you get that into something around 1 cu. in. and you'll double volume and sound quality, as well as the life of the woofer itself. Not bashing...just trying to give advice...buying woofers all the time sucks, and I get the discount.
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Old 04-26-2002, 04:32 PM   #14
nixima
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0.35 ft^3 is a rough guess on the volume before the driver placement. Its probably closer to 0.20 with the driver. I know this is a ridiculously small enclosure for at 12" but I got the Punch HE2 for about $80 so I thought I would try it out. If I were to go according to spec, I should have an 8" which I might try next if the 12" fails me. I was just shooting for better bass than the crappy Subaru sub.

My original idea was to pull out all the storage compartments from the floor and make a box that used all of that space which would probably get me around 1 ft^3 but then I would have to recarpet everything. I'd like to see someone try it though.
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Old 04-26-2002, 07:57 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by nixima
My original idea was to pull out all the storage compartments from the floor and make a box that used all of that space which would probably get me around 1 ft^3 but then I would have to recarpet everything. I'd like to see someone try it though.
Well, i know someone will have it done by the end of summer, as that's when i might be getting mine if i'm lucky.
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Old 04-27-2002, 10:41 AM   #16
bsbg
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Default Same thing, only fiberglass:

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Old 04-27-2002, 05:01 PM   #17
rexecutioner
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Nice box, unfortunately the sedan doesnt give up much depth with the spare still in place. bsbg, your pics gave me the idea to try and make the bottom part of my sub enclosure. Its a combination of both of yours, the glassed bottom and the boxed off top portion for added volume. I needed 1-1.5cuft for the 12" driver and ended up with 1.25 after sub displacement. To make everything nice and flush the floor will be raised a couple of inches and will allow the amps to be countersunk. The sub part will be on hinges to get to the spare when all is finished. Its a work in progress, hopefully the wifey will learn me how to post pics. The glassing part has been a learning experience but after a couple of layers I feel I can glass just about anything
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Old 04-28-2002, 09:43 PM   #18
2000vfr800
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Well, I had a very similiar idea to this, but used nixima'a awesome idea to enhance mine a bit. Plus I threw on some carpet. I just got it done. Here it is. It is using an Image Dynamics IDQ10 DVC with 4 ohm voicecoils to give the amp a 2 ohm load. And let me tell you, this is one nice sub. Small enclosure volume and has better bass extension that my old system. HIGHLY recommended. Thanks again for the great idea nixima!! Plus, with the cover down it is totally hidden. The punchiness of it suffers with the cover down, but the deep bass is still there. I figure if I want better punch, I'll pull the vinyl cover closed and hang the cover open.

Plus, I added several layers of Dynamat Extreme to the floor of the hatch. I don't hear ANY rattles. And even better, the Dynamat only cost me $1 from Sounddomain.com.

Now to get my ID seperates into the doors and my system will be complete. All for about $200 more that the cost of the upgraded system and it sounds WAY better.
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Old 04-28-2002, 09:58 PM   #19
Kwyjibo
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How much Dynamat you get?? and how you get it so cheap??

thx.
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Old 04-28-2002, 10:09 PM   #20
2000vfr800
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When I bought all my stuff from sounddomain, they were running a deal where you get the Dynamat Extreme trunk kit for $1 if you bought an Image Dynamics sub, plus I got a Dynamat Extreme door kit for each pair of Image Dynamics door speakers I bought. So, I got a Dynamat Extreme trucnk kit and two Dynamat Extreme door kits for $3.

See here:

Image Dynamics Deal

and

Image Dynamics Door Deal

The only downside is that the component speakers are still on backorder. Oh well...it will be worth it.
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Old 04-28-2002, 10:59 PM   #21
fatray
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Default Bazooka

I installed a powered 6.5" Bazooka tube in my wagon. it takes up a little more space thean your sub, but I use my storage space were you mounted yours. And it sounds great.
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Old 04-29-2002, 09:30 AM   #22
nixima
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2000vfr800:

Looks great!!! I'm just wondering if you had to take the two supports out of the hatch cover? To me that was about the most difficult thing of the whole process. They really glue the carpet down on the edges.
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Old 04-29-2002, 10:11 AM   #23
2000vfr800
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Nope... Thanks to your warning/advice, I made the box shallow enough to not hit the supports. I do think I need to move the hanger hook though...no biggie.

Thanks again for the great idea and suggestions.
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Old 05-08-2002, 03:12 AM   #24
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Hey 200vfr800:

Great design! Have you considered just taking off the carpet on your enclosure, and mounting on another piece of carpeted wood on top that would take the place of the hatch altogether? You would no longer have muffled bass problems. Good work though
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Old 05-08-2002, 06:21 AM   #25
2000vfr800
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I thought about it, nd will probably do something, sometime, but for now it's plenty good.
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