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Old 02-12-2011, 11:29 PM   #26
Teh Police
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Im not saying your wife's knowledge of the size of the radiator means much. With such a small radiator and less cooling ability this car wouldn't make the best daily driver. Honestly, Id take the AC condenser out and put a bigger than average radiator in its place and slim fans between the fmic and the radiator. That seems like more of an appropriate setup for what you have going on.
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Old 02-12-2011, 11:51 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teh Police View Post
Im not saying your wife's knowledge of the size of the radiator means much. With such a small radiator and less cooling ability this car wouldn't make the best daily driver. Honestly, Id take the AC condenser out and put a bigger than average radiator in its place and slim fans between the fmic and the radiator. That seems like more of an appropriate setup for what you have going on.
She barely drives it, but there is the rare occasion. She will not, however, until I am completely satisfied that the cooling system is going to handle stop-and-go driving. Its hard to see with the bumper on, but there are 2 slimfans in between the FMIC and the condenser..I'm not crazy.

And I WILL NOT get rid of the A/C. Why? Because it shouldn't need to be done. I feel it is very sloppy to remove functional equipment in order to make modifications such as P/S and A/C. Done for weight resons, I understand, but not on a street car.
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Old 02-13-2011, 12:14 AM   #28
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No offense, Im not trying to argue with you, but you are significantly downsizing the most important part of the car. The radiator cools the motor. You are going with a bigger set up, but cutting your radiator in half? This wont be too great for daily driving and/or stop go traffic. The only reason I say that is because of what you just posted about thinking it sloppy to remove functional equipment.

You could have very easily had a stock mount or rotated mount big turbo set up but you chose front mounted. You have to realize turbos (especially big ones), arent designed to fit up there. When you go with that setup you have to choose between losing AC or radiator cooling efficiency. If your block overheats, hello new motor. Just saying.
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Old 02-13-2011, 12:36 AM   #29
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The fluid capacity of the new radiator is about the same as the stock one. It is half the width, but over twice the thickness.
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Old 02-13-2011, 12:49 AM   #30
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oh okay, I would go bigger than stock capacity if at all possible.
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Old 02-13-2011, 01:54 AM   #31
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Its not possible....unless what I have can't keep up.

In that case, I think I will go with a water/air intercooler and that will make a lot of room up front for a proper radiator along with the IC radiator. I just don't have the cash for it right now.

I just found this tonight: http://www.frozenboost.com/index.php...f79bb2b6c94fdb

water/air is not as costly as I thought it would be and would very well decrease turbo lag by a signifigant amount.
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Old 02-13-2011, 02:08 AM   #32
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If you go that route, you can turn your front mount into a heat exchanger by capping the ends off and putting a fitting for your water lines at each end. Then all your have to buy is the actual intercooler, water pump and lines and fittings. Let me know if you need help piecing a system together in the future.
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Old 02-14-2011, 12:48 AM   #33
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Turbo is going to produce a massive amount of heat. And it is 6 inches(?) from the rad? kudos for doing a custom setup, but a turbo at 300F-500F so close to the radiator who's cooling surface area is cut in half seems like a risky setup. Good luck with it.
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Old 02-15-2011, 06:15 PM   #34
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Love this build, there needs to be more DIY guys in the subaru world.
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Old 02-16-2011, 05:28 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jakedademon View Post
Turbo is going to produce a massive amount of heat. And it is 6 inches(?) from the rad? kudos for doing a custom setup, but a turbo at 300F-500F so close to the radiator who's cooling surface area is cut in half seems like a risky setup. Good luck with it.

It is also very close to the timing belt. I was wondering how heat might effect the strangth of the belt over time. A turbo blanket is being utilized so this might have been addressed already.

Good work on the build so far.
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Old 02-16-2011, 10:01 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jakedademon View Post
Turbo is going to produce a massive amount of heat. And it is 6 inches(?) from the rad? kudos for doing a custom setup, but a turbo at 300F-500F so close to the radiator who's cooling surface area is cut in half seems like a risky setup. Good luck with it.

The radiator is for a civic body, so 1.6L-2.2L engines. Mine is 2.0L. Look at any turbo civic and you will see turbo proximity very similar to what I have...hell alot of people run the DP right next to the radiator and wrap nothing. Every piece of exhaust pipe in the engine bay is wrapped except for the WG dump which is far from anything and only gets hot on occasion.
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Old 02-26-2011, 10:50 PM   #37
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Update:
Accessport is history and I am running very good on a Romraider SD rom. I have to say that tuning on RR was a little disappointing vs. AP as you have to flash/log/modify/flash/log/modify, etc.. instead of realtime tuning and adjustment, but the benefits of the SD rom far outwiegh litle thing like that. I have to say that looking at the HY35 and this BW S258 side-by-side, I was a little worried that it would spool slow as ****, but I am very pleased. This thing spools faster and hits much harder than the HY did. I'm sure that the manifold/length and cams help. I'm only running WG pressure now(15 psi) and its still puts down a raping that brings a large smile to my face. I'm gonna have to wait till it warms up here a little before I go any farther. The highs for the nex week are single digits, but after that I'll tune it up to ~24 psi and see how that feels.
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Old 02-27-2011, 10:44 PM   #38
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Congrats on getting this together. I don't think you'll have a problem with the radiator, but if you do run into heating issoes just get a custom shroud for it (should be available off the shelf since it's an OEM Honda size) and put an electric fan on the engine bay side of it.
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Old 03-04-2011, 10:40 PM   #39
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i love how u build custom turbo setup with a decently large turbo and all this other stuff.
But then are concerned about having to let the wife drive or carry your kid in the car.
just get a diff car for daily use lol. what its gonna put down.
not hating. just confused lol. its cool to be differant at a certain point.
but if that car just happens to be your daily that the wife drives and your kid rides in. my plans would be differant, thats all.

Last edited by NW2TONE; 03-04-2011 at 10:46 PM.
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Old 03-05-2011, 12:39 PM   #40
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Looks like an awesome project.
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Old 03-06-2011, 10:10 AM   #41
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nice looks goods!
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Old 04-13-2011, 10:15 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodiedon20s View Post
i love how u build custom turbo setup with a decently large turbo and all this other stuff.
But then are concerned about having to let the wife drive or carry your kid in the car.
just get a diff car for daily use lol. what its gonna put down.
not hating. just confused lol. its cool to be differant at a certain point.
but if that car just happens to be your daily that the wife drives and your kid rides in. my plans would be differant, thats all.
I never had a concern of IF the cooling system would be sufficient. It was just a matter of what it would take to make it such. as the weather is getting warmer I have noticed that the engine does get warm driving slow and sitting for awhile running. So, I ditched the POS slimfan that I had and bought a flex-a-lite and moved it to the engine bay right behind the radiator. That sucker moves ALOT of air. I had to mostly redo the compressor inlet plumbing to make it fit. So far, no more overheating, but I still think that I may go with the water-to-air setup.
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Old 04-15-2011, 05:27 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SiFlyBy View Post
I never had a concern of IF the cooling system would be sufficient. It was just a matter of what it would take to make it such. as the weather is getting warmer I have noticed that the engine does get warm driving slow and sitting for awhile running. So, I ditched the POS slimfan that I had and bought a flex-a-lite and moved it to the engine bay right behind the radiator. That sucker moves ALOT of air. I had to mostly redo the compressor inlet plumbing to make it fit. So far, no more overheating, but I still think that I may go with the water-to-air setup.
Im building a similar setup to yours right now. I have a water-to-air in the place of the battery(and half way in the fender)...the radiator Im using is from a Jeep Cherokee with the inline 6...in front of the bumper beam. Kudo to you for keeping the A/C, I wasnt that creative, and space is at a premium with front mounted turbos as you know.
How is your timing cover holding up? This is my #1 worry at this point in my build.
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Old 04-16-2011, 08:58 AM   #44
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Quote:
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Im building a similar setup to yours right now. I have a water-to-air in the place of the battery(and half way in the fender)...the radiator Im using is from a Jeep Cherokee with the inline 6...in front of the bumper beam. Kudo to you for keeping the A/C, I wasnt that creative, and space is at a premium with front mounted turbos as you know.
How is your timing cover holding up? This is my #1 worry at this point in my build.
It's looking more and more that I will have to change things...as it happens with these type of projects. What I'm going to do is put a water-to-air essentially where the radiator/charge piping now sit. For the radiator, I have some cores from 6.4L Ford diesels that are 2 3/4" thick and 37'' long. I'm going to cut to about 10" tall and build end tanks for and mount it where my intercooler sits now, in the front bumper.

My timing cover is golden so far. I spent money and bought what I thought was the best turbo blanket. Its from DEI and it seems to work VERY well. The actual turbine housing is over 1" from the condenser and the timing cover. I say spend the money on a good turbo blanket and you'll be good to go.

Oh, and get a build tread or something going...I want to see what you're doing.
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Old 04-18-2011, 04:42 AM   #45
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I will put a build thread up, but Im actually waiting until I get it almost finished to post it. My project has taken me too long and didnt want to be pushed along faster than I could afford to buy parts(without a credit card). I noticed your turbo blanket in the pictures above, that is the one that I was planning on buying. Im glad to hear that the plastic timing cover is holding up.
Your radiator plan should work well. Those dimensions are about the same size as my Jeep Cherokee radiator and it should be more than enough to cool the intercooler water. The volume of water in that radiator should be substantial. My car is a 98 Impreza rs and it fits the bumper skin opening and the bumper support. Should work well with your car too.
Im planning on using a radiator core from a water cooled 911 in the hood scoop for my intercooler heat exchanger.(I work at a Porsche shop and hoard all the damaged intercoolers and radiators)
I could PM or post a few pictures of my progress if you want.
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Old 04-21-2011, 01:31 PM   #46
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You may want to consider fabbing up a litle heat shield for the sake of the passenger side CV joint coming out of the tranny. It looks like your exhaust is very close to it. I cooked one of mine before the downpipe was wrapped.

The build looks great tho man. Good work!
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Old 05-13-2011, 09:43 AM   #47
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Everything is wrapped in the engine bay and there is sufficient clearance with the cv shaft.
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Old 05-13-2011, 10:08 AM   #48
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Would there be any disadvantage to clocking the cold side downwards (aside from ground clearance), or was this way the shortest route to the intercooler?
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Old 05-14-2011, 09:28 AM   #49
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WOW! This looks great! Great DIY!
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Old 05-16-2011, 11:49 AM   #50
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Would there be any disadvantage to clocking the cold side downwards (aside from ground clearance), or was this way the shortest route to the intercooler?
My IC outlets are at the top, so it was pretty much the shortest route for a FMIC...I am in the process of builing a radiator to put up front where the IC is now and will then go water-to-air and have the IC in the engine compartment where the radiator is now. And that will be the shortest route.
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