Need some help!! Car wont start temp gauge pegs to hot

[BRSUWRX]

Originally Posted by Cougar4

I suspect the vacuum line was used to run the air vents.

that's a new one

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[cianuro]

Mine started doing this a couple months after replacing the clutch:
https://youtu.be/5DmbC6-mlAs

The car runs fine, no idle issues and no electronics are going off or crazy. Here’s my original thread if you’d like more info: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2857013

I haven’t been able to solve this issue yet and it started in 2017. Any updates on your side of things?

[bach415]

Hi, my friend and I are trying to diagnose the same type of problem. He just bought the car from a private sale and issues started happening the day after. His car essentially will start up sometimes, then dies after about 2 minutes (cold start), temp gauge pegs to hot, tachometer pegs to 8k, and relays from passenger side are constantly clicking. Once it dies, it refuses to start back up for a while and persist w/ the pegging and clicking even after you turn off the vehicle, remove the key, and attempt to start it up again.

I read that it maybe a ground problem but everywhere I searched, I can only seem to find three-four common ground locations (starter, intake manifold, near vcd module, and the two from the engine to the bottom of the chassis). We have fixed the starter ground location (was not in the right place) What are the other grounding points I should look for (possible diagram or picture location will help a lot).

Also if grounding is not the issue, what can be possibly the problem causing it?

[cianuro]

Originally Posted by bach415

Hi, my friend and I are trying to diagnose the same type of problem. He just bought the car from a private sale and issues started happening the day after. His car essentially will start up sometimes, then dies after about 2 minutes (cold start), temp gauge pegs to hot, tachometer pegs to 8k, and relays from passenger side are constantly clicking. Once it dies, it refuses to start back up for a while and persist w/ the pegging and clicking even after you turn off the vehicle, remove the key, and attempt to start it up again.

I read that it maybe a ground problem but everywhere I searched, I can only seem to find three-four common ground locations (starter, intake manifold, near vcd module, and the two from the engine to the bottom of the chassis). We have fixed the starter ground location (was not in the right place) What are the other grounding points I should look for (possible diagram or picture location will help a lot).

Also if grounding is not the issue, what can be possibly the problem causing it?

What’s odd in your case is the tach pegging to 8K. None of the issues mentioned here show that symptom. In your case I’d check for loose grounds under the dash apart from the engine bay. I’d also recommend getting a scanner that can read the other systems: ABS, VDC, BIU, etc. The codes you get with those systems are not P codes, so that’ll give you more info as to what system could be causing the issue. In the factory service manual there’s a list for each system’s codes and how to diagnose them.

In my case, I got the combination of 2 codes, U1221 and C0047. First one for CAN communication and second for ABS system. The FSM states that a combo of those codes together means the possibility of a faulty ECU, which I will be replacing during the next few weeks. Now, this is my case, so yours could be different, which is why I’m recommending a different scanner.

There are many shops that carry the Snap-On scanner, which can do this, but you can also get one that does the same from ebay. Mine’s an iCarsoft HNMII. It wasn’t until I got this that I could identify my issue as no P codes were ever triggered, so a regular scanner, nor the Accessport would tell me anything.

Another thing, since the car was bought used, you might wanna check what mods, if any, were done to the car. In terms of mods, I’m not only saying engine related, so check radio, gauges and any other thing that could relate to wiring.

[Cougar4]

A faulty ground shouldn't cause relays to be clicking, even with the ignition OFF. I would guess it is the Main Relay you are hearing as it should be in the passenger side kick panel area. The relay is controlled through the ECU. Hopefully the wiring hasn't been modified by someone in the past.

Make sure that the engine TEST connectors aren't connected together.

[cianuro]

If you remove the main relay and put the ignition to ON, it’ll create the condition of the temp gauge pegged to hot, no crank or start, and VDC/ABS lights on. That relay has constant 12v from the battery, even with the car off. Once you turn the key to ON, pin #23 from 3rd ecu plug (left to right) triggers that relay and outputs 1V. If it is the main relay, pin #23 will show 12V with the ignition key ON.

That relay controls fuel pump and ignition coils. If voltage is tested and performs as it should, then he would need to check elsewhere. One of the guys here commented about finding a loose ground in the engine bay, which when jumped to ground, got everything working again. Then again, this thread mentions nothing of tach pegged at 8K, so his problem has to be something else.

When my ac was worked on, they left that relay block hanging from its wires, so I took out the dash completely to inspect a couple other grounds mentioned in the FSM that relate to the ecu, said relays and other systems like ABS and VDC. As far as I could access, I found no loose grounds, but seeing as the issues started the day after he got the car, might be worth a shot.

Still, I do recommend again the scanner I mentioned, or a similar one. Different combo of codes means different causes for symptoms.

[Cougar4]

Lets verify the grounding to the combination meter since it seems to indicate there is a problem with that by the action of the gauges. My data shows that pin C8 of connector i12 (green 14 pin connector going to the CM) supplies ground, passing through a couple of other connectors, and ties to ground via ground lug G1, which should be behind the AC compressor, near the top of the engine. Check the resistance of pin C8 using the negative battery post as your reference point for the test. You should have less than a few ohms of resistance if the connection to ground is good.

That same ground also ties to the ECU on pin A22(connector B134) and pin C17(connector B136) so you should verify those pins also. The wire color is blk/wht for both of the pins. Another quick way to check the ground is to connect a temporary jumper to one of suspect pins (with things normally connected up) and tie the other end of the jumper to a known good ground point.

[cianuro]

Something like this was mentioned earlier, but I believe that if it was a problem with the combination meter, car would still run. The meter receives data from the ecu, not the other way around. They would probably have wrong readings or weird behavior from the needles, but this wouldn’t prevent the car from running.

From the FSM and some google searching, I found that the meter has a method of showing you when something is wrong by the position of the needles. For example, Temp gauge pegged to Hot with ABS, VDC and Hill Assist lights On means that the ecu went to “failsafe mode” to prevent damage to the engine. There’s a service bulletin with this symptom and a diagnostic procedure, which I found by google searching the codes U1221 (which is the same as B0221) and C0047 together. This issue has been going on since 2005 models and they still haven’t figured it out. After all diagnostics were performed, last flow diagram point says “temporary unstable communication phenomena”, so just reset the codes.

He would need to check if there are any wires tapped to the ecu wiring, but until he gets the other systems scanned as mentioned before, testing stuff won’t do much.

I’ve been dealing with this issue for over 2 years now, and everything I’ve tested and replaced hasn’t done a thing, which is why I’m replacing the ecu.

[bach415]

Thanks for all the information guys! Late response due to holiday break and us going out to have fun instead. Found the three issues (two of em ended up fixing the idle and driveability of the car, details below). Also, after that day I made the post and checking out the car during the day, we noticed that the engine may have been replaced at one point prior to my friend purchasing the car and might explain why certain things are in proper places/missing.

1st issue was that the VCD ground wire (passenger side engine bay) was not properly grounding. It was suggested to try extending the different grounds to see if it temporary fixes the start up issues and turns out it was the VCD ground wire (unable to fit it with the ohmmeter due to size of the tester tips). Hooked up a 10 awg from the vcd ground (after testing others) to the battery and the car started and was idling fine consistently but once it started driving, short time later issue came back with it bogging and dying. I think he fixed the issue by cleaning up the grounding wire as well as the chassis to where it grounded.

2nd issue was the main harness (08-14 wrx/sti known for that bad ground in the main harness right before the plug that goes into the firewall). We decided to solder the hell of out those ground wires there just to see what happens and it ended up fixing the random bogging/stalls. Went for a 30 minute test drive and the issue has not came back yet. We will do a longer test when we have the time and the weather is not bad (raining like crazy at the moment and bad alignment due to switching back to oem coils).

3rd issue is that we are experiencing c0047, c0054, and c0057 (did not have any other codes nor the U1221 mentioned prior). Had a friend at subaru to try to clear the codes with ssm but it still comes back/does not erase. So far it has not affected driveability (based on our 30 min drive). Might just be abs sensors being dirty/bad based off of what we read before (and it's possible that it may have been damage due to the different panels of damage the car has).

[cianuro]

Can you show me the main harness ground you mention? I’ve messed around with plenty of grounds, polishing and reseating them, so it doesn’t come to mind. I’d like to have another look.

As for the VDC, I believe all 3 C codes you have are CAN comm errors, and they’ll stay on until you fix the connection that’s actually causing the issue. Meaning, there could be another loose ground/connection you might’ve missed.

As for the U code not showing in your case, it probably means your ecu is not the problem. The FSM states that having C0047 and U1221 together, without any other codes, means a faulty ecu, which is my case.

The way to test abs sensors is to get a scanner like I mentioned before that can read them live and see if the speed output from all sensors is the same.

[Cougar4]

The error code C0054 refers to the BLS or brake light system. Here is a link that may help you fix the issue.

https://subaru.oemdtc.com/334/revise...08-2016-subaru

[bach415]

@Cianuro it wouldn't let me quote your post without having issues

For the main harness ground, it was related to this topic:https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2550077 or https://www.wrxforums.com/forums/10-...range-fix.html. Both the same topic but the 2nd link has a clearer picture of the issue. It was a misfiring issue for the OP there but also for some reason fixed our idle/driving/bogging/dying issue.

It could still be the VCD ground that is having issues. All the other grounds in the engine bay looks good so far. We will attempt a grounding mod for it and see if it fixes the problem.

@Cougar4 thanks for the link. My buddy and I will attempt it possibly tomorrow and see if our other friend can reset via SSM and see if it goes away.

[Grafdaddy]

Any luck with your issue ?

[cianuro]

Originally Posted by Grafdaddy

Any luck with your issue ?

This is my thread: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2857013

Is your issue like mine?

I've been logging all my findings here, but 4 years into it and still no solution. Dealers states bad ecu, which is the last thing I'll try, when I'm able to.

Last week I figured out that the ecu is turning off. I plugged in my scanner than can read all other systems, TPMS, VDC, airbags, etc., and while the Temp gauge was pegged to hot, I was able to scan and read data from all systems, but the ecu would not read. The scanner didn't even show it as an option. I had to go manual mode to be able to choose the ecu, and got a communication error message, as if it was not there.

So far the only way I've been able to recreate the issue, at least with the car parked, is by removing the main relay from below the glove box. While running, there's no way I can cause the issue, or even know when it'll happen. It's completely random. I can be weeks running with no issues, or I can be getting the issue every 5-10 mins on a normal drive.

What I will try this week is tapping the grounds directly related to that relay. The relay itself doesn't have a ground pin. Two pins go from the ecu to it, but five pins from the ecu to ground are related to that relay. They all get to a joint connector, then grounded to chassis. I'll tap the pins coming out of the ecu right at the ecu plugs and find a suitable ground point near the ecu to connect it to and keep testing.

If your temp gauge also pegs to high, try checking out my thread to see if your symptoms are the same as mine.

[Grafdaddy]

Originally Posted by cianuro

This is my thread: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2857013

Is your issue like mine?

I've been logging all my findings here, but 4 years into it and still no solution. Dealers states bad ecu, which is the last thing I'll try, when I'm able to.

Last week I figured out that the ecu is turning off. I plugged in my scanner than can read all other systems, TPMS, VDC, airbags, etc., and while the Temp gauge was pegged to hot, I was able to scan and read data from all systems, but the ecu would not read. The scanner didn't even show it as an option. I had to go manual mode to be able to choose the ecu, and got a communication error message, as if it was not there.

So far the only way I've been able to recreate the issue, at least with the car parked, is by removing the main relay from below the glove box. While running, there's no way I can cause the issue, or even know when it'll happen. It's completely random. I can be weeks running with no issues, or I can be getting the issue every 5-10 mins on a normal drive.

What I will try this week is tapping the grounds directly related to that relay. The relay itself doesn't have a ground pin. Two pins go from the ecu to it, but five pins from the ecu to ground are related to that relay. They all get to a joint connector, then grounded to chassis. I'll tap the pins coming out of the ecu right at the ecu plugs and find a suitable ground point near the ecu to connect it to and keep testing.

If your temp gauge also pegs to high, try checking out my thread to see if your symptoms are the same as mine.

Well my issue is brand new short block . No crank , no starter click. With key on accessories I’m getting 12 volts , when I turn the key to on voltage drops to 2v at my obd port and I get nothing , no Ap, no code scanner nothing . But my car will not run at all .

[cianuro]

Originally Posted by Grafdaddy

Well my issue is brand new short block . No crank , no starter click. With key on accessories I’m getting 12 volts , when I turn the key to on voltage drops to 2v at my obd port and I get nothing , no Ap, no code scanner nothing . But my car will not run at all .

Ok. Sounds like your ecu is not getting power. If it's dropping to 2V, there are still connections that are not completed. You might want to check the square fuses in the engine fuse box. Mainly the Main SBF, also SBF 5, 6 ,7 and 8. These provide power to the IG relays and main components as fuel pump, O2 sensors, TPS, cam sensors and so on.

Can't say much more as it's not the issue I'm having.

[Cougar4]

If you haven't checked the communication bus lines going to the ECU for good continuity yet then I suggest you check that.

Originally Posted by cianuro

This is my thread: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2857013

Is your issue like mine?

I've been logging all my findings here, but 4 years into it and still no solution. Dealers states bad ecu, which is the last thing I'll try, when I'm able to.

Last week I figured out that the ecu is turning off. I plugged in my scanner than can read all other systems, TPMS, VDC, airbags, etc., and while the Temp gauge was pegged to hot, I was able to scan and read data from all systems, but the ecu would not read. The scanner didn't even show it as an option. I had to go manual mode to be able to choose the ecu, and got a communication error message, as if it was not there.

So far the only way I've been able to recreate the issue, at least with the car parked, is by removing the main relay from below the glove box. While running, there's no way I can cause the issue, or even know when it'll happen. It's completely random. I can be weeks running with no issues, or I can be getting the issue every 5-10 mins on a normal drive.

What I will try this week is tapping the grounds directly related to that relay. The relay itself doesn't have a ground pin. Two pins go from the ecu to it, but five pins from the ecu to ground are related to that relay. They all get to a joint connector, then grounded to chassis. I'll tap the pins coming out of the ecu right at the ecu plugs and find a suitable ground point near the ecu to connect it to and keep testing.

If your temp gauge also pegs to high, try checking out my thread to see if your symptoms are the same as mine.

[rachelalvinn]

Originally Posted by TokyoTexan

So I've searched and found nothing really. Here's the scenario. Replaced the transmission on my 2008 wrx. After I finished up, I attempt to start the car and nothing. No crank no fuel pump kicking on nothing. I notice my temp gauge pegs straight to hot.
Key fobs not working either, don't know if that has something to do with it. Changed the batteries in my fobs, and nothing. Car battery is brand new.

Thinking possible immobilizer issues, but no security light when I insert key and turn ignition. I read somewhere about possible ground issues involving tgv. Checked all fuses, and they are good to go. Just a little frustrated at this point. Any help would be appreciated.

I’m having this same issue.
- starter replaced
- all grounds checked
- all fuses checked

- scanner won’t show me anything when I turn car in on position
- temp gauge goes to hot

I’m at a loss here, does anyone have answers?

[cianuro]

Originally Posted by rachelalvinn

I’m having this same issue.
- starter replaced
- all grounds checked
- all fuses checked

- scanner won’t show me anything when I turn car in on position
- temp gauge goes to hot

I’m at a loss here, does anyone have answers?

This will sound expensive, but it will rule it out. In my case it was the ecu. It had water damage, which happened during ac repair. The shop somehow managed to get my ecu wet and it corroded some chips on the ecu board. Pull your ecu out, take it apart and check for corrosion or water traces.

If you don't see corrosion or any damage, buy a spare ecu with the same exact part number and plug it in. The car will crank, but won't start or run, and when you turn the key everything will light up normally. You'll have the Security light ON, but everything else should work. If you turn the key to the ON position and the Temp gauge DOESN'T peg to high, then your ecu is bad and needs replacing.

Since the car is so old, Subaru no longer makes replacement ecu's, but you can have the spare one you bought cloned. If an AccessPort was installed, you'll need to have it reset through Cobb, which is a $40 service.

This was my case, but my car ran intermittently. I would be driving normally and all of a sudden the engine would shut down, Temp gauge pegged to high and ABS/VDC lights on. After a few moments, the Temp gauge would come back down and the car would keep running as if nothing happened, plus no DTC.

[Cougar4]

Originally Posted by rachelalvinn

I'm having this same issue.
- starter replaced
- all grounds checked
- all fuses checked

- scanner won't show me anything when I turn car in on position
- temp gauge goes to hot

I'm at a loss here, does anyone have answers?

You most likely have a ground connection issue that is causing the issue. The temperature gauge action is the big clue here. You can try find the faulty ground connection by placing one end of a jumper wire on the negative battery post and then connect the other end to the suspected faulty ground connection on the engine and chassis areas. One of the main ground connections is most likely at fault. Since the starter was replaced, verify that the main battery ground cable to the starter motor was connected up correctly.

You didn't mention how the fuses were checked. Verify that proper power is getting to the fuses in the dash fuse panel when the ignition is ON using a meter or a probe light.

[Max Capacity]

FWIW, I wonder if these cars with this issue were in a flood at one time, before you bought them...Post 44 gave me that thought.

[cosmothunder]

7 years later this helped me. Thanks for this!