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Old 10-05-2016, 02:32 AM   #1
xJacK3dxUPx
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Question New 2017 WRX Premium Owner - Paint Maintenance

Hi everyone. Hopefully I can get more of a direction here than the few responses I got back on ClubWRX.

I just purchased a '17 WRX Premium, Crystal White Pearl, this past weekend and opted out for the Xzilon option. Can someone point me in the right direction to protect the paint for the North East region (Philadelphia, PA)? I already have a lot of bugs on the front bumper and side view mirrors, so Crystal (her name) needs a wash. My friend told me that for right now, a solid non-wax stripping wash should suffice. Although, I am hesitant of just washing without clay barring, and I read that I should wax after clay barring. Is the wax after clay barring necessary? Before the first snow fall, I was also advised to protect my paint with a stronger barrier (name unknown). Thoughts?
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Last edited by xJacK3dxUPx; 10-05-2016 at 02:34 AM. Reason: Added more information
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Old 10-05-2016, 07:58 AM   #2
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Old 10-05-2016, 09:02 AM   #3
dan58707323457
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Owned a 2015 WRX and now have a 2016, both CWP. Also live in the northeast (MA).

I clay and wax every 6 months or so. After switching from Megs carnauba wax to Colinite 845 I've also noticed fewer bugs sticking to my bumper. Stays cleaner too.

Personally I don't see the point in clay barring and then NOT putting on wax
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Old 10-05-2016, 09:30 AM   #4
vapore0n
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You should consider getting clearbra.

Claying induces scratches, so you need to polish after, and then sealant/wax.
The car is new, so claying should be fairly quick. Though a white car does show more contaminants on paint (rail rust) and usually takes longer.
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Old 10-05-2016, 10:17 AM   #5
misztal2112
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I have a clearbra on my 16 WRX. It's nice 'cause it protects from stone chips but the material is softer than paint. So bugs stick to it pretty good. I find it very difficult to remove all the bug guts. Maybe chemical guys bug and tar remover works. I haven't tried that yet.

Also, I use 3M performance finish. It's supposed to last pretty long and it's easy to apply. It doesn't stain moulding or trim.
Got to wear gloves though. That stuff will give you cancer!

Last edited by misztal2112; 10-05-2016 at 10:19 AM. Reason: Sp
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Old 10-05-2016, 01:02 PM   #6
xJacK3dxUPx
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I'm just paranoid that there might be some contaminants on the body already. Is claying always necessary?

I'm hesitant to wash and then use a microfiber mit that will smear debris over the paint, but it seems that claying will be doing that also. I've seen some mixed reviews on the clear bra too, so that is still an option.

What is the consensus on using soap that will strip the wax layer, if there's even any from the dealership/manufacturer?
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Old 10-05-2016, 02:48 PM   #7
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I would suggest a Clay on a new car is a good idea - and to further that prior to Clay - use an Iron-Out product to chemically breakdown the Iron particles that are already present from delivery.

AutoGeek Rail Dust Thread

Also note - after Clay you'll need to use a wax/sealant/coating to add back a layer of protection to the clear coat - as anything that the factory may have applied would stripped down.

Right now for ease of use vs protection - Many folks prefer a coating and it seems like the McKees Paint Coating is well liked for cost/application ease and provides ~1 year of protection.

But pick your poison as to preference of wax/sealant/coating - but use something after the clay process.

Also for washing use a soap designed for auto washing or even add a little bit of Rinseless Wash to your typical wash soap to ensure dirt is captured by the soap vs stuck to the mitt. The rinseless option is actually designed for spraying directly onto paint on and wiping dirt off with a microfibre. I prefer WolfGang Uber Rinseless
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Old 10-05-2016, 05:42 PM   #8
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Something I always recommend customers to have done to their vehicles is PPF (paint protection film) aka a clear bra such as Xpel Ultimate. It is an expensive investment, but one that's worth it in my opinion. It will protect your car against rock chips and such and Xpel ultimate has self healing properties to it.

If that is out of your budget, consider the basics. First and foremost, a new car in most cases is already contaminated from it being hauled front point A to point B not to mention all the time it sat in some lot collecting dust.

So consider getting a car soap. It doesn't have to necessarily have to strip wax. I doubt your car has any to begin with and if it does its probably lost its durability. Or as previously suggested, a rinseless wash. I am also a huge fan of wolfgang uber rinseless.

As previously mentioned, I also suggest getting a product that removes iron from your vehicle. Every "brand new" car I have ever detailed showed signs of iron deposits bonded to the paint. I suggest Carpro Iron X.

You're also gonna want to clay bar the vehicle. Some people have mentioned that claying induces scratches, that isn't necessarily true. There are different grades of clay bar from light to heavy. A "light" clay bar will be softer and remove less bonded contaminants and is usually used on vehicles with paint in great condition that have light contamination. Using a heavy clay bar will definitely induce marring in the paint and with Subaru paint being soft, it would be noticeable. With that being said, using a light clay bar with the right technique you shouldn't have any induced marring in your paint at all.

As for protection after all of this work, it is absolutely necessary. You're basically leaving your car naked and exposed to contaminants. If you don't mind reapplying wax, then go for a wax. Just know that waxes offer very little durability. Depending on the wax you can usually expect less than 2 months of durability. My recommendation is a sealant. Sealants offer up to 6 months of durability, have great hydrophobic properties and leave behind a glossy finish. My personal favorites, blackfire wetdiamond, blackfire crystal seal, polish angel master sealant, and wolfgang deep gloss paint sealant. Also, you can top off a sealant with wax if you would like, but you cant add a sealant over wax.

Coatings like optimum gloss coat, cquartz and mckees 37 are awesome. They do offer the best protection and maintaining a coated car is extremely easy. However, if you're gonna coat a car, I suggest you polish to have an absolute flawless finish. I don't recommend a coating for someone who's never detailed before. You can leave streak behind that become semi permanent and the only way to remove is to polish all over again.

So to give you an order on how to perform this:

1:wash and dry
2:iron X and rinse off iron X once its done
3:claybar
4:quick detailer to clean off any residue if any
5: wax or sealant
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Old 10-05-2016, 06:14 PM   #9
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Wash, dry, iron-x if ya want, clay and drop some Collinite 915 to get ya through the winter until ya get a bit more familiar with what you wanna do next spring.
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Old 10-05-2016, 08:06 PM   #10
xJacK3dxUPx
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WOW. You all are seriously lifesavers. I was stressing out on what I actually needed to do because I would like to work on my car this weekend (pending the hurricane storms and product shipments).

Everything seems a lot clearer now, but as everyone may have guessed, I am a detailing noob and I don't have the cash right now to get a clearbra. A lot of people have suggested it and I may look into it further down the road, maybe as a Christmas present . Basic car washing/care will have to do for now, and it seems that picking the right products are all based on preference now minus the few extras suggested like the Iron X.

My goal is to definitely keep the shine even throughout the Winter to show off that pearl color!

Can you guys comment on my first setup below to get the ball rolling?

Step 0 - Touchless Pre-Wash:
Thoughts?

Step 1 - Wash:
1 x https://www.amazon.com/Wolfgang-WG-3...inseless+wash#
1 x https://www.amazon.com/Microfiber-PO...16281820d4f1f2

Step 2 - Dry:
2 x https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys...214c2262f5a277

Step 3 - Contaminant Removal:
1 x https://www.amazon.com/Detail-Buddy-...etailing+brush
1 x https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Smoo...words=clay+bar

Should I stick with Meguiars? Or switch over to Mothers for the fine clay barring that won't mar my clear coat?

Step 4 - Wash:
Wash using rinseless wash one more time to remove any residue after step 3.

Step 5 - Seal/Wax: I want to go for that double protection albeit would add some cost to my setup.
Sealant TBD. I am trying to prep for Winter, so I need to make sure whatever sealant I want will hold up.
Wax after sealing - 1 x https://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liq...ords=Collinite

Extras:
1 x https://www.amazon.com/Detail-Buddy-...etailing+brush
Cleanliness Maintenance Sap - 1 x https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQXFO...s_ad_dp_asin_3


Additional Questions:
1. Should I go all out and get the top of the line products for each category (Ex. Collinite 915 instead of 845)? Or does what I have listed suffice?
2. What do people think about Step 0 and Step 4?
3a. Does that Wolfgang Rinseless Wash provide enough suds for the car? Does it strip old wax?
3b. While some soaps strip wax, does that mean they also strip sealant? Or is that something else I need to lookout for?
4. Concerning Step 0 and related to Step 1, I have seen people on YouTube sud their car with soap to allow for any grime to just fall off. Is this suggested as a pre-wash?
5. Are there any eco-friendly options available for the products that I listed (mainly the soap) because I foresee the water runoff crossing paths with my grass?
6. Do the quantities that I have listed suffice (Ex. 16 oz. of Collinite)?
7. What type of applicators do I need for the wax/sealant? I have seen videos of people using a white vs. orange pad, etc...

Besides two 5-gallon buckets, a grit guard, and general microfiber towels, is there anything else that you guys suggest I add immediately to my car care kit?

Last edited by xJacK3dxUPx; 10-05-2016 at 08:17 PM. Reason: More information needed
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Old 10-05-2016, 10:18 PM   #11
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1.collinite 815 is great sealant. Apply it as thin as you possibly can. No need to get 915.

2. not necessary

3a. the rinseless wash inst a soap so it doesnt make suds. What it makes is a solution that encapsulates dirt. Youtube the "gary dean method" for rinseless wash and youll get a better understanding at how this product works.

3b Soaps wont strip a fresh sealant. It may strip a sealant that has been on there for a while.

4. If your doing rinseless wash, its unnecessary.

5.Wolfgang uber rinseless is an eco-friendly product. You will have very minimal water runoff

6. More than enough.

7. I use the regular yellow round applicator pads.
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Old 10-05-2016, 10:33 PM   #12
xJacK3dxUPx
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Thank you. I was initially following this YouTube video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFXfSBR5Q9w on how to wash my car properly.

I keep asking if any soap or rinseless wash removes wax because I am wondering if I can wax over or seal over whatever is currently on my car. As theSilverScooby suggested, there might still be some sort of protection on the car and I don't know if I can layer.
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Old 10-05-2016, 10:52 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xJacK3dxUPx View Post
WOW. You all are seriously lifesavers. I was stressing out on what I actually needed to do because I would like to work on my car this weekend (pending the hurricane storms and product shipments).


Besides two 5-gallon buckets, a grit guard, and general microfiber towels, is there anything else that you guys suggest I add immediately to my car care kit?
sooo much if you want to care for it. Detailing world is subjective so pick your budget first.

Once you know what you want to spend check out
https://www.reddit.com/r/autodetailing/wiki/recommended

I started here on this forum for advice on paint protection, but ended up moving to reddit and other sites for more info. The reddit wiki has a lot of info about car care, just depends on how far you want to go.

If you want to protect your paint, detail the car. If you want to _protect_ the pant, get a clear bra.

-------
-A good detail with a wax/seal will help keep the car looking good and protect the paint from **** and dirt

-A clear bra will protect you from stuff flying around on the road, of reasonable size, like like small rocks, dirt, salt, etc. but won't make your car shine
-------

unfortunately there isn't one that does both.


It sounds like you want to do basic paint care via proper washing. you're on the right track. Feel free to PM me with questions and I'd be happy to share my experiences (also from MD, got a 2016 about 5mo ago and it was my first 'nice' (new) car so did everything i could afford to protect it [with tons of research]).
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Old 10-05-2016, 11:06 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xJacK3dxUPx View Post
I keep asking if any soap or rinseless wash removes wax because I am wondering if I can wax over or seal over whatever is currently on my car. As theSilverScooby suggested, there might still be some sort of protection on the car and I don't know if I can layer.
If you got the car from a dealer, I highly doubt there is any protection or wax on the vehicle. If you want to remove wax if you think it's there, google removing wax from car (dawn, rubbing alcohol, time, pick your flavor). Otherwise, you want to seal before you wax.

car paint layers and protection layers roughly as follows:
metal > Primer > Colored Paint > Clearcoat > Sealant (long term) > wax (short term) > Quick Detailer (about a week)


*You wash and clay to remove contaminants between clearcoat and applying a sealant.
**Clearbra exists between clearcoat and sealant. All other protection can be applied to the clearbra along with the rest of the car.
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Old 10-06-2016, 06:00 AM   #15
BudgetPlan1
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Check forums at autogeek, autopia...all the info/videos/advice you'll need.

Got into this stuff seriously last year when I bought a black 2016 WRX and saw how easily it scratched/swirled...needed something to help alleviate that. Now all our cars have been compounded/polished with DA to remove scratches and swirls and coated in ceramic coatings. Maint is now a breeze.

FWIW:

2004 black Corvette: compound/polished with Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover and the Wolfgang Finishing Glaze, topped with Wolfgang Uber Ceramic. Wheels coated with Gyeon Rim, tires coated with Tuf Shine tire clearcoat, paint monthly boosted/Refreshed with Kamikaze Overcoat.

2016 black WRX:
compound/polished with Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover and the Wolfgang Finishing Glaze, topped with Wolfgang Uber Ceramic. Wheels coated with Gyeon Rim, tires coated with Tuf Shine tire clearcoat, paint monthly boosted/Refreshed with Gyeon Cure.

2016 Civic:

polished with Menzerna 3500, topped with 2 layers Kamikaze Miyabi and 1 layer Kamikaze ISM. Wheels coated with Gyeon Rim, tires coated with Tuf Shine tire clearcoat, paint monthly boosted/Refreshed with Kamikaze Overcoat.

Polishing/compound ing done with Griot Garage 6" DA, Lake Country pads, decontamination with Nanoskin Clay Mitts and Gyeon Iron.

You can get lost down the detailing rabbit hole quite easily. Just bring your credit card.

The more ya put into it the better the results and the easier maint is going forward.

A note about buying supplies:

Autogeek/Autopia: Generally the biggest selection but kinda outrageous shipping charges unless you meet their 'standard' free shipping thresholds ($195 usually). They do shipping based on order value so if you order $125 worth of buffer pads, you'll pay $21.95 shipping for a box that doesn't weigh much. They pretty much run sales nearly every weekend (10%-20% off, especially near holidays and such). Shipping usually takes a full week; order placed Sunday usually makes it up here to NE Ohio in 8 days. Goto their site, sign up for forums, sign up for newsletter.

Detailed Image: Great folks, on east coast and have reasonable (actual) shipping costs via USPS. Sign up for their newsletters as well and follow them on Facebook for notification on sales. Coupon code FACEBOOK10 is a pretty consistent code for 10% off. Their selection not as good as autogeek/autopia but I order from them, I get my stuff 2 days later with reasonable shipping (actual shipping cost, I'm guessing). If I order $125 worth of buffer pads from them I'll get 'em in about 2 days with shipping likely being about $6.95. I try to order everything I can from them due to quick, reasonable shipping.

The markup on these products has to be pretty good because, generally, someone is running a 10-15% off sale every weekend.

That said, for your particular case if you wanted to go coating route for best protection:

Griot Garage 6" random orbital DA (can sometimes get at Advanced Auto w/ coupon for around $100. Get 5" backing plate to for use with cheaper, easier to control 5.5" Lake Country flat pads.

(6) Lake country white 5.5" flat foam pads. Likely all you'll need on soft, new Subie paint to remove minor swirls, scratches.

Menzerna Super Finish (SF-3500) - (PO106-FA) or Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0

If you want to do a wax-type product, Collinite 915. More durable than 845...will get you thru winter easily.

If you want to do sealant, Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant. Easy 6-month protection, great look, easy application.

If you want to do coating, McKees Paint Coating...very forgiving, easy application, removal, can correct any imperfections within an hour or two.

Thing with coatings is you want paint as perfect as you can get it as they are pretty durable products and if you end up with smudges/smears (known as high spots) you have to re-polish panel to remove and then re-coat. Also, you'll need something like Gyeon Prep or Wolfgang Perfekt Finish Paint Prep to remove any polishing oils and such before coating.

If you're gonna do a sealant or wax, no real need for polish/prep with a DA like the GG6 noted above unless you want to remove defects at this point. Get your protection down and spend the winter planning for that 'perfect' look/work next Spring.

Oh...and towels are life. Great products, great procedures will all be undone using crappy microfiber towels. Something like these have served me well this summer ( http://www.autogeek.net/cobra-edgele...ber-6pack.html ). For drying after wash Platinum Pluffle are what I'm digging this year. The Rag Company is a good place for towels.

I usually use Wolfgang Auto Bathe as my wash soap.

And if you want a quick, easy way to 'kinda' apply a coating, check out Gyeon Wet Coat. Cool stuff.

Everybody usually has their own opinion and favorites, the above is just one amateurs take on your situation.

Last edited by BudgetPlan1; 10-06-2016 at 07:41 AM.
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Old 10-06-2016, 03:01 PM   #16
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Thumbs up for this post!

Helped me a lot!
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Old 10-06-2016, 05:15 PM   #17
xJacK3dxUPx
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I appreciate all the starter information. Keep it coming.

I just learned from the dealership that I purchased my car through that my they have the vehicles washed and waxed, so there is some protection on there. After I wash my vehicle, can I seal over the wax that is currently on? I saw someone said not to do that, but if that's the case, what wax stripping products do you use less polishers?

I also did some research and found that Dawn and the other dish washing soaps barely remove any protective layer, so that doesn't seem to be an option anymore.
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Old 10-06-2016, 10:47 PM   #18
BudgetPlan1
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Clay can remove some waxes/coatings as can something like Gyeon Prep. To be sure can also use something like this, which can be applied by hand (not applicable for coatings, though, as it does contain some fillers to hide slight imperfections):

http://www.autogeek.net/wg2000.html

Aotogeek sale going on now although if ya miss it, no worries...they seem to have some kinda sale every wrekend:

http://www.autogeek.net/newsletter-special.html
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Old 10-06-2016, 11:12 PM   #19
xJacK3dxUPx
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Thanks, that's exactly what I was looking for. Is that usable without exactly polishing my vehicle and going straight to a sealant? All the reviews for Wolfgang seem to be exceptional, so I think starting with them is best.

This is a starters list from Amazon that I'm going with - https://amzn.com/w/G7S6G9AY0MW3

I purchased Autocraft Microfiber Towels (x12), a cheaper detailing brush, and Meguiars Clay Bar kit from Advanced Auto Parts allowing me to save some money. For the rest, I think purchasing from Amazon seems to be the cheapest.

With those products that are in the list, are there any concerns that I should be aware of or pay special attention to besides what is listed on their information labels? For example, I should watch out for the Iron X getting into my wheelbase. Anything else? How would the wax/sealant fair on the plastic/chrome parts of the car?

My next question is how far inside the car should these products be applied? For example, should I pop the hood and hit the edges with the products? Should I open doors and touch up the door sills? Yes, I am OCD and think about these things, haha. I just want to arm myself with this basic knowledge before pouring some sweat into my car.
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Old 10-07-2016, 12:14 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xJacK3dxUPx View Post
Thanks, that's exactly what I was looking for.

For example, should I pop the hood and hit the edges with the products? Should I open doors and touch up the door sills? Yes, I am OCD and think about these things, haha. I just want to arm myself with this basic knowledge before pouring some sweat into my car.
Well - this is where it goes off the rails to most folks - that's detailer logic

Since your new - you'll find it never stops.... So I would suggest just start with the basic plan you've formed - wash/decontaminate/polish/seal. Get used to how those basic products work and perfecting some of the techniques there.

Then you'll have the knowledge to move into what you specifically like and prefer in terms of product look (wet vs candy shell) - and what you struggle with in terms of process. This will allow you to really cater your product purchases to your needs/wants. Over time you'll also get the feel for how much time/effort and products.

Note - if you really are OCD like most detailers - it's like fish attracted to shimmery items - every newly marketed product is a must try - and it end up being overload until you know exactly what you prefer and what your needs are
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Old 10-07-2016, 12:57 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grovlet View Post

Note - if you really are OCD like most detailers - it's like fish attracted to shimmery items - every newly marketed product is a must try - and it end up being overload until you know exactly what you prefer and what your needs are
I'm not even going to post the crap load of product I have...........
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Old 10-07-2016, 01:56 PM   #22
BudgetPlan1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsn112 View Post
I'm not even going to post the crap load of product I have...........
All since last April...I gotta stop ordering crap. Took me about 3 months to figure out autogeek, autopia, detailed image, etc. pretty much have sales every week. Among the things I have that I'll likely never use on my cars (currently addicted to Kamikaze products):

Pinnacle Souveran paste wax
Dodo Juice Purple Haze paste wax
Dodo Juice Back to Basics QD
Kenotech Showroom Shine
Wolfgang Uber Rinseless
Wolfgang Fuzion paste wax
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant
Wolfgang Detail Spritz
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant Spritz
HD Adapt
HD Poxy
HD Speed

... and many other glass cleaners, interior cleaners, trim dressings/sealants and misc. "Oooh...that seems cool" items.

Might use them on friends cars but it took me about $3500 to figure out what works for me. Thankfully the 'season' is coming to an end here In NE Ohio as I'm actually growing weary of 'car stuff'

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Old 10-07-2016, 08:21 PM   #23
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Be careful......the detailing bug will bite and winter is coming so, there is that.
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Old 10-08-2016, 01:24 AM   #24
theSilverScooby
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: SoCal Torrance
Vehicle:
2003 Wrx wagon

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Quote:
Originally Posted by BudgetPlan1 View Post
All since last April...I gotta stop ordering crap. Took me about 3 months to figure out autogeek, autopia, detailed image, etc. pretty much have sales every week. Among the things I have that I'll likely never use on my cars (currently addicted to Kamikaze products):

Pinnacle Souveran paste wax
Dodo Juice Purple Haze paste wax
Dodo Juice Back to Basics QD
Kenotech Showroom Shine
Wolfgang Uber Rinseless
Wolfgang Fuzion paste wax
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant
Wolfgang Detail Spritz
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant Spritz
HD Adapt
HD Poxy
HD Speed

... and many other glass cleaners, interior cleaners, trim dressings/sealants and misc. "Oooh...that seems cool" items.

Might use them on friends cars but it took me about $3500 to figure out what works for me. Thankfully the 'season' is coming to an end here In NE Ohio as I'm actually growing weary of 'car stuff'

Wow you might as well go pro. lol I basically have the entire wolfgang, blackfire, and meguiars detailer line in the gallons. pads wise I love the HD orbitals, rupes and griots boss pads. I have way too many polishes. And Im a huge fan of nanolex, gyeon, and carpro products.
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Old 10-08-2016, 08:04 AM   #25
BudgetPlan1
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Member#: 433101
Join Date: Oct 2015
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: NE Ohio
Vehicle:
2016 WRX
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All that stuff (in addition to about 100 various towels) and I still can't clean interior glass without streaks.
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