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Old 02-03-2014, 11:57 AM   #1326
speedracerx9
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Have a Nice Day?

Quote:
Originally Posted by subby08 View Post
ive had this code since summer car has 77k on it. i was passing a car one day and i got on it when i shirfted back up it threw a check engine light. so i scanned it threw p0302 code ive had all new plugs wires replaced coilpack did nothing so put old back in. had both valve covers new tube seals and gaskets cause there was oil on all 4 plug boots still throwin code. if i start it cold and hold a little gas on it at all times till its fully warn it wont throw code. so it only throw it if it sits at idle cold after not running. random misfire i can hear it out exhaust and feel it at idle cold.but no loss of power when on gaas at all. and idles great when i drive it 20 miles and stop but still get a little drop in rpms like it wants to stall coming up to lights if cold it stalls help me dont really see it being piston its not smokin or knocking and its only got 77k on it.

If you've ruled out electrical then next is fuel. check injector, maybe dirty or stuck open. Misfire is a fuel air ratio problem when there is a solid spark. Make sure coil is firing and its not an ECM problem. If fuel is good then the next issue is a leak around valve cause low compression in that cylinder. That would be a leakdown test and compression check.
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Old 02-08-2014, 03:17 PM   #1327
bcuz_awd
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-I just installed a 44mm ewg & a Cobb 3pbc I turned my car on after the install, I figured my dash would look like a Christmas tree, I drove my car to cobb SoCal to get tuned and they said they couldn't turn any of the lights off...? Any help? My hand brake lights on, hill asst., traction control, & ABS lights are on. And my diff lock randomly starts flashing occasionally.

-2010 Subaru sti hatch
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Old 02-08-2014, 03:19 PM   #1328
bcuz_awd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcuz_awd View Post
-I just installed a 44mm ewg & a Cobb 3pbc I turned my car on after the install, I figured my dash would look like a Christmas tree, I drove my car to cobb SoCal to get tuned and they said they couldn't turn any of the lights off...? Any help? My hand brake lights on, hill asst., traction control, & ABS lights are on. And my diff lock randomly starts flashing occasionally. -2010 Subaru sti hatch
Forgot,
- 58,698 miles
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Old 02-09-2014, 07:28 PM   #1329
AyB88
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I got a p0171, generic system too lean (bank 1).

On page one it says Fuel trim malfunction, A/F too lean.

I've got a 2002 WRX bone stock, with 136k miles. Any thoughts?
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Old 02-10-2014, 11:49 PM   #1330
DrnknZag
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P1410 - no description
P2442 - air system switching valve stuck open bank 2
P2442 - secondary air system switching valve stuck closed bank 2

2007 WRX, 111,xxx miles

Codes above and descriptions were thanks to O'Reilly Auto Parts. From a few Nasioc searches I know P1410 is associated with the switching valve stuck open. Since it appears I have a "stuck open" and "stuck closed" code, could I assume this would be the relay that needs to be replaced?
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Old 02-16-2014, 07:47 PM   #1331
subby08
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Default 2009 subaru impreza 2.5i p0302

kk had both valve covers tube seals gaskets replaced new plugs wires new entire timing assembly good coil 160 psi compression so thats good swaped injectors code didnt follow only misfire at idle on clyinder 2 when cold after driving 20 mins its gone but still almost stalls coming to lights im out of ideas its so frustrating im at my end with this car only 77k and been nothing but trouble since i bought it at 56k.
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Old 02-17-2014, 01:21 AM   #1332
rsdog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subby08 View Post
kk had both valve covers tube seals gaskets replaced new plugs wires new entire timing assembly good coil 160 psi compression so thats good swaped injectors code didnt follow only misfire at idle on clyinder 2 when cold after driving 20 mins its gone but still almost stalls coming to lights im out of ideas its so frustrating im at my end with this car only 77k and been nothing but trouble since i bought it at 56k.
Howdy buddy

OK, give the following a try. Open up the bonnet and locate the Coil pack on top of the engine. You will see a "plug" plugged into it as well, I am sure it is right on top in the middle of the engine. Remove the plug and check the side that remains on top of the engine. You will see that the side that remains is the female part of the connector. Make sure that all of the connectors are "as closed as possible" to put it that way, because the 2.5 engines are prone to those connectors making bad or no connection once the engine heats up that connector and the expansion of heat makes them move away from each other. Use a small flat screw driver and CAREFULLY bend all the connections back closed as best as possible. See if that solve the issue.
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Old 02-17-2014, 08:51 PM   #1333
subby08
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i swapped a new coil pack in at the beggining of this and did nothing so could it be the end that plugs into the coilpack thats got this issue cars at shop even the tech cant fig it out i use to be a certified ase mechanic till 2005 this is the most baffling diagnosis i have ever incountered in my life its killin me.
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Old 02-17-2014, 08:55 PM   #1334
subby08
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its been totally gone thru with a realtime computer diagnose aand trims are right evrything just random hard misfire on cylinder 2 when its cold it will stall coming to stops till its warm then it drops down to 200 rpms and jumps back up coming to stops warm and and idles with no misfire when warm but if i let it idle whenits cold it throws the po3o2 cyl 2 mis code also valve lash are .07 .09 like perfect anything else i could look at
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Old 02-18-2014, 01:20 AM   #1335
rsdog
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Hey buddy. Trying to understand your sentence, but not staying with you LOL

1.) COLD - Car starts fine?
2.) COLD - Car IDLE at what RPM?
3.) HOT - Car starts fine?
4.) HOT - Car IDLE at what RPM?
5.) HOT - Car won't idle and dies?
6.) Have you changed your plugs to normal NGK ones (not cold plugs) and cheked plug gaps?
7.) Have you tested your fuel pressure ?
8.) Have you sent your injectors for calibration testing and spray pattern testing and cleaning ?
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Old 02-18-2014, 09:23 PM   #1336
subby08
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got ngks no cold starts and idles rough and stalls coming to stops.but if i let car warm up well driving it slowly goes away but still drops rpms down to 200 back to normal coming to stops always. it wont throw the code if i keep rpms above idle till its warm but if its cold i start it and let it sit at idle it throws the pima p0302 cylinder misfire 2. i did a comp test got 160 then only turn it over a few times got 120 then 150 but the battery was dying at that point so wasnt turning over as fast. at this point im thinking its a sticking valve when i replaced valve cover tube seals and gaskets clearence were right on .07 .09. and the diff comp values starting with 160 the 120 then 150 im not sure if it was my fualt cause i still had all other plugs in just unhooked wires and had number to with tester on it so wasnt quite done the right way.

Last edited by subby08; 02-18-2014 at 09:29 PM.
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Old 02-18-2014, 09:30 PM   #1337
subby08
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ill find out the real compression test values tomorrow from mechanic
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Old 02-20-2014, 08:13 PM   #1338
subby08
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so got car back mechanic could not figure out why its idle is ruff when its cold and it has perfect compression on all cylinders. but the cel is off right now but i know it will come on if i let it idle when its cold.it still stalls coming to stps when cold and when warm idles fine but aacts like it wants to stall coming to stops. its either got a valve issue or a piston ringland crack but wouldnt that show low comp values. its not electrical or timing or fuel i know that now.
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Old 02-21-2014, 01:11 AM   #1339
rsdog
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It does sounds like a valve issue indeed yes !!
Hydrolic or solid lifters ?
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Old 02-22-2014, 12:17 AM   #1340
subby08
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its a 2.5 i motor so it has shim buckets not hydrolic lifters which if im correct is in dohc motors. i having a feeling its gonna be a **** ton of money to make this car right sux cause i own it outright and only has 77k on it its never seen snow and is incredibley well takin care of.

Last edited by subby08; 02-22-2014 at 03:22 AM.
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Old 02-24-2014, 02:45 AM   #1341
rsdog
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Something simple I hope bud ... let's stay positive ...
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Old 03-03-2014, 12:33 AM   #1342
dirtysti05
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got a fun one, traction control, DCCD lock flashing and hill assist light all on and won't go off. currently working in a small town and steering rack went out. chanced a local shop putting in a new one. installed a reman'd part and picked the car up with all the lights on. the place is denying they have anything to do with it and are being complete pricks. anyone have any clues to what the combination of these lights are and if it has anything to do with the steering rack install.
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Old 03-07-2014, 01:34 AM   #1343
lego126
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I'm currently getting a knock sensor CEL. I've replaced the sensor from one I got off ebay, had it cleared and it came back a week later??? Is my sensor bad again?
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Old 03-07-2014, 01:58 AM   #1344
rsdog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lego126 View Post
I'm currently getting a knock sensor CEL. I've replaced the sensor from one I got off ebay, had it cleared and it came back a week later??? Is my sensor bad again?
Hi there bud

Was the code P0327?
Have SUPER cleaned the surface before you installed the new sensor?
Did you tighned the knock sensor 25 nm when you installed it?
Did you check the wiring from the knock sensor loom?
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Old 03-10-2014, 11:20 PM   #1345
spankywrx
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Hey guys i really need help
sometime my car drives perfect but with the slightest drop in temp. my car won't start and when it does it throws a p102. Its a maf code but i have replaced the maf and have checked the wiring. i had my tuner tweak the idle up a tiny bit, and that seemed to fix it for a bit. but i had him retune just to be sure and it recently started doing it again. I don't think its the tune, but what else could it be?
Subaru wrx
03 sedan
headers, catless down pipe, up pipe, cai
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Old 03-11-2014, 01:38 AM   #1346
rsdog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spankywrx View Post
Hey guys i really need help
sometime my car drives perfect but with the slightest drop in temp. my car won't start and when it does it throws a p102. Its a maf code but i have replaced the maf and have checked the wiring. i had my tuner tweak the idle up a tiny bit, and that seemed to fix it for a bit. but i had him retune just to be sure and it recently started doing it again. I don't think its the tune, but what else could it be?
Subaru wrx
03 sedan
headers, catless down pipe, up pipe, cai
What make cai is it?
Did your tuner check your cold start and settings?
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Old 03-12-2014, 12:45 AM   #1347
spankywrx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsdog View Post
What make cai is it?
Did your tuner check your cold start and settings?
No he didn't he said he didn't touch anything with that, and most the time I can avoid it by resetting the ecu then all of a suddent it'll happen again. The 02 sensor wouldn't cause this right?
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Old 03-12-2014, 02:22 AM   #1348
rsdog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spankywrx View Post
No he didn't he said he didn't touch anything with that, and most the time I can avoid it by resetting the ecu then all of a suddent it'll happen again. The 02 sensor wouldn't cause this right?
It very well could I guess, it could be reading the CO's wrong and wrongly compensate and then the engine dies. Haven't seen this before, but could make sense. How old is that O2 sensor? They can't be trusted over 60 000 km in my view, learnt that lesson over the year, especially tuned Scoobs.

If you say you reset the ECU and it is sorted, but then start again, it could be the CAI causing the ECU to learn wrong values. Try and put the standard Airbox back, reset the ecu and see what it does.

Remember, the standard airbox with OEM air filter is good for 500HP on a Subaru. Tested and confirmed this. CAI intakes cause so much ****, the only one we have used out of the box, working 99% correct was the INJEN CAI
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Old 03-13-2014, 04:08 AM   #1349
spankywrx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsdog View Post
It very well could I guess, it could be reading the CO's wrong and wrongly compensate and then the engine dies. Haven't seen this before, but could make sense. How old is that O2 sensor? They can't be trusted over 60 000 km in my view, learnt that lesson over the year, especially tuned Scoobs.

If you say you reset the ECU and it is sorted, but then start again, it could be the CAI causing the ECU to learn wrong values. Try and put the standard Airbox back, reset the ecu and see what it does.

Remember, the standard airbox with OEM air filter is good for 500HP on a Subaru. Tested and confirmed this. CAI intakes cause so much ****, the only one we have used out of the box, working 99% correct was the INJEN CAI
Hmm ya that's what I've heard, ya it's a k and n but a while back I tried putting on my buddies stock box and it did the same exact thing. Im pretty stumped. Could a vac leak or a boost leak cause that you think?
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Old 03-13-2014, 04:17 AM   #1350
rsdog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spankywrx View Post
Hmm ya that's what I've heard, ya it's a k and n but a while back I tried putting on my buddies stock box and it did the same exact thing. Im pretty stumped. Could a vac leak or a boost leak cause that you think?
No I doubt that a boost leak will do that under idling. Try and get hold of a MAF sensor to test if it is not that perhaps, but cold start might be the culprit.
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