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Brakes & Suspension Forum sponsored by The Tire Rack |
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04-06-2004, 08:30 PM | #1 |
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best STX setup--not using coilovers
I have been autocrossing a stock crx and a pretty well prepped STS '89 civic for the past couple of years. I took out my '03 wrx that has a few exhaust mods, a set of rota 16x7 slipstreams with 225/50 yoko es100s, and a completely stock suspension for the first time this weekend. The conditions were very wet and it was a very tight course. I was completely disappointed with my wrx. I was out run by people that I would have run faster than had I been in my crx or sts civic. The steering response and feel was terrible on my wrx and, it really had a tendency to oversteer either due to my driving style or simply because the rear tires would not hook up in lateral transitions in the wet.
I am tired of running hondas and would like to start using my wrx. What suspension mods do you all recommend that are not coilover based or airbag based? I have pretty much settled on using 17x8 torques with 225/45 azenis tires just because I have run on them on the civic and was happy with their performance. Thanks.
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04-06-2004, 08:36 PM | #2 |
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I use 04 sti takeoffs, )4 Tanabe GF210 springs(240/227 lb rates) 22mm front bar 24mm rear bar
The BEST non coilover setup would be that STI tarmac setup that is for salel in the private classifieds right now ANd if you are going to use an 8 inch wheel, run the 245 azenis. You have the rim for it, so do it up |
04-06-2004, 08:58 PM | #3 |
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Isn't the 245 azenis only available in a 45 aspect ratio? Would this tall of a tire cause rubbing or detrimentally impact the overall gearing? I have considered the 245/40 kumho mx, but I have never driven on them.
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04-07-2004, 01:51 AM | #4 | |
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-Steve p.s. more power to you, if you want to maintain some level of civility in your car by not going for sky-high spring rates. However, you should at least get some camber/caster plates for the front. Limited front camber is a big weakness of stock WRX's. |
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04-07-2004, 02:32 AM | #5 |
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I run my car in SM, but I do not have coilovers. What puts me in SM is higher boost (from my PPP3) and my ALK.
I think you should start with a good tire ( I use falken FK-451's for street and auto-x and am impressed thus far) and adjustable rear sway bar with end links. I also run -2 deg camber in front and -1.50 deg in back using camber bolts. oh, and eibach pro-kit springs on factory struts. I think for the money, my suspention setup would be tough too beat(unless you use the azenis). I found the SS brake lines to be worthwhile, and i hear good things about the steering rack bushings which I am planning on getting one of these days. |
04-07-2004, 05:30 AM | #6 | |
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04-07-2004, 02:38 PM | #7 |
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hmmm w/o coilovers
noltec castor camber plates (front) konis or agxs spring (eibach/tanabe/tien/whatever) sti group-N A arm mount (half the benifit of alk but leagle) sti strut tops (rear) 22 front 20-22-24 rear sway bars bushings bushings bushings .. but your ride comfort will start to suffer good alignment i used 215/45/16 azenas .. full 5% shorter than stock.. like having a 4.11 ratio |
04-07-2004, 11:01 PM | #8 |
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Thanks for the replies. It sounds like camber plates would be the most important mod. I noticed at the Phoenix national event this year that the few wrxs there had them.
I am leaning towards a semi low-buck setup of: front camber plates Prodrive springs kyb agx shocks at least a rear bar with links rota 17x8 torques 225 azenis probably a few more goodies as money allows, and most importantly--some time behind the wheel in something other than a Honda |
04-08-2004, 04:34 PM | #9 |
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Jaxx, haha Im running 215/45-16 azenis' too and for the longest time id be following Geo Metros on the freeway going "95 mph." I didnt know those things (or the rest of traffic) could go so fast!
im only running jdm v8's (10mm lower than usdm rev d susp), tires, and soon to be a set of bushings. low buck, runs well - could (sometimes) use a larger rear bar though. Ben |
04-08-2004, 04:41 PM | #10 |
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You could also use 14 mm camber bolts front and/or rear for a cheap method to adjust camber.
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04-23-2004, 11:38 AM | #11 | |
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Additional caster/camber up front is a night/day difference. The Group N bushings throughout is a good option as well (exception of rear cros member)- I've replaced all of mine and suprisingly not mcuh increase at all in NVH. I think a deadly dtrut/spring setup would be the v8 "pink" springs w/ 252/217 ratings, combined w/ the 40mm inverted struts. It necessitates the v8 top in the rear (a better designe top anyways and available in Group N now). The tarmac is a GC8 fitment and I think a fwellow would run into soem hurdles using it on a GD car. No one mentioned this, but the WRX does take some getting used to- inputs that one is used to from a front (or rear) drive car often are not ideal for our platform. I think you'll find w/ a little more seat time things getting much more comfortable and predicitable. Big Sky |
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04-23-2004, 11:46 AM | #12 |
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I am also in the same boat here, except I have been winning StX class so far this year. I already have a RSB and Rota Torques with Tires (will be buying new tires soon because ES100's suck). I am looking to get a FSB next. Can I use an aftermarket FSB with the stock endlinks? I realize it is not the best combo and eventually I will get aftermarket Front endlinks, but for the time being will it be alright? I am afraid of breaking them.
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04-23-2004, 11:59 AM | #13 |
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If you have a sedan you've got pretty good sway links up front already - full pillowball, a slight increase in sway bar dia won't hurt them.
Just realize that increasing front sway dia you can effect overall handling- a adjustment to the rear may be needed. Big Sky |
04-23-2004, 12:20 PM | #14 |
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That's what I figured. Right now I have the rear bar set to the medium setting. I will bump that up the the stiffest once I install the front bar.
How much more body roll will adding the frontbar get rid of? I know adding the rear bar got rid of most of it, but there is still some I don't want to deal with. BTW, I have an 04 sedan. |
04-23-2004, 01:09 PM | #15 |
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You've got two choices for body roll - stiffer springs(w dampers) or stiffer anti-sway bars. I personally felt the front bar was the best bang for the buck. It totally changed turn-in response.
Get some STi take-offs if you don't wan't to go the coilover route. |
04-23-2004, 01:58 PM | #16 |
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See the past two issues of Japanese Cars (a British Mag, I find it at Barnes & Nobel). They have tested several suspensions on thier daily driver / occassional track wagon and have several good low cost approaches, and some expensive things to avoid. Their current set up is Whiteline F & R swaybars, ALK (illegal in stock classes), E-Springs, R camber bolts, and alignment. I suspect their stock JDM dampers are a bit stiffer than US spec.
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04-23-2004, 04:09 PM | #17 |
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I have also heard, with some confirmation, that the struts on the 04 are stiffer than that of the 02-03.
How much are STI takeoffs and where would I get them? I thought I remember seeing some for about 700 or so which is more than I would spend on struts. Might as well buy coilovers at that point after getting the springs and what not. I was thinking about just getting a version 8 STI suspension. I found one the other day for about $400 shipped and assembled. |
04-23-2004, 04:18 PM | #18 | |
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Big Sky |
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04-23-2004, 05:07 PM | #19 |
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So the take offs are the whole assembly? Top hats, springs and struts?
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04-23-2004, 11:45 PM | #20 | |
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04-24-2004, 12:31 AM | #21 |
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Where can I get them from?
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04-24-2004, 12:41 AM | #22 | |
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Vehicle:2002 WRX, WR Blue Complete n00b Racing |
Quote:
Otherwise -- you're good to go. I run SM with all the same mods as you listed above, difference being reflashed ECU and Victoracers. Handling is really nice IMHO. Scott |
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04-24-2004, 12:45 AM | #23 | |
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