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07-31-2019, 10:44 AM | #1 |
Scooby Newbie
Member Sales Rating: (9)
Member#: 206257
Join Date: Mar 2009
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Yukon, OK
Vehicle:2009 WRX 5-door White |
Superpro Rear Trailing Arm Bushings Install & Review
Superpro Rear Trailing Arm Bushings Install & Review
Part# SPF3097K & SPF3098K The biggest PITA was getting the old bushings out. Since I didn’t have access to a shop press, I used the drill method and a recip saw to remove the stock bushing and pressed-in steel sleeve (see links below). I used these for guidance: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2000683 https://motoiq.com/project-va-wrx-up...rpro-part-1/3/ You’ll need: 19mm and 17mm socket, ratchet, box end wrench DIY bushing press (see 1st link near bottom of page) Drill & drill bit Vise grips or channel lock pliers Recip saw or hacksaw with fine metal cutting blade Big hammer and steel chisel Steel brush, rag, and solvent Vise - Jack the car and place jackstands - Remove both trailing arms - Clamp the trailing arm in a vice - Drill out the rubber between the steel sleeve and the steel insert in the stock bushing - Grab the steel insert with channel locks or vice grips and rip it out - Use a recip saw or hacksaw to cut through the pressed-in steel sleeve in the trailing arm…but be careful to avoid cutting into the arm itself. I made 2 cuts about an inch apart. - Use a small sledgehammer and a burly chisel to bend up the cut edges of the pressed-in steel sleeve. Keep bending the tab you made back until the steel insert pops out of the trailing arm. - Clean the inside of the trailing arm eyelet with a steel brush, a rag, and solvent. - Grease the 1-piece bushing and use a DIY bushing press (made out of a threaded stud, a couple nuts, and a couple washers) to press it into the trailing arm eyelet. Lube up steel sleeve and slide it into the bushing. Now you’re done with the trailing arm. - Use the same process on the trailing arm lower mount in the rear hub – drill, rip out insert, cut steel sleeve, clean bushing eyelet - Grease the 2-piece bushing and insert the bushing halves into the lower mount in the hub. Lube up steel sleeve and slide it into the bushing. - Reinstall trailing arms. I usually apply final torque with the weight of the car on the wheels to prevent suspension binding. An alignment is probably a good idea. Since I replaced the rear toe links at the same time, my rear toe was WAY off. Excessive toe destroys tires very quickly. The drive to the alignment shop was SPOOKY – the ass end was swerving all over the road. Installed on a 2009 WRX with: 245/40-19 Hankook Ventus V12 Evo 2 tires 2011 STI springs Koni shocks 22/22 sway bars 2015 STI steering rack & Perrin steering damper lockout SPT rear lower control arms Rallitek adjustable rear endlinks Rallitek adjustable rear toe arms Bushings: Front control arm rear bushing (ALK) Steering rack Rear subframe & differential Rear trailing arm (front and rear) Impression: Before I installed these, I could feel a subtle squirm at the back end under cornering loads – I’m pretty sure it was unintended toe changes as the stock bushings flexed under load. I installed these bushings along with a set of Rallitek adjustable rear toe links, so I’m not sure which mod made the biggest difference. But I can say that this combination made the rear end more direct and responsive during hard cornering. Now I can immediately feel how much grip the rear tires have, and I no longer have to wait for the rear end to squirm and “set” through a corner. I haven’t noticed any additional NVH, just a more solid feel from the rear wheels - great for a DD car. And highly recommended for road racers and autocrossers.
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