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Old 05-05-2017, 03:45 PM   #26
wingman358
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Originally Posted by TJ_Madden View Post
Bren Tuning had told me since my protune I should replace my plugs soon. I dropped my car off this morning to Kaizen Tuning to replace my plugs even though I believe to have solved my power loss. My 2017 WRX only has 10,000 miles. Do you think I am wasting money here with doing plugs so soon?
Wasting money? That's all we do here modding our cars.

Plugs cost maybe 30 bucks tops, the install can be a bitch but not too bad.

BTW, I had a weird power loss that I thought was my clutch slipping but it turned out to be my plugs. They had eroded far enough where at higher boost the spark was being blown out. Pull the plugs and check the gap. Take note of how many miles since they were new. That way you know ahead of time when your new plugs are likely to be eroded beyond the limit.
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Old 05-05-2017, 06:21 PM   #27
TJ_Madden
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Originally Posted by Samurai Jack View Post
What type of plugs are you running?

- Copper

- Platinum

- Iridium



If copper plugs, possibly

Platinum and iridium go longer, with iridium going the longest.

I wouldn't consider replacing iridium plugs before 30K


The FA20DIT only uses one set of plugs. The OEM is an NGK Iridium. I have attached a picture of one of my old plugs. What do you guys think?
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Old 05-05-2017, 06:21 PM   #28
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The car only has 10,000 miles btw
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Old 05-05-2017, 06:22 PM   #29
wingman358
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The FA20DIT only uses one set of plugs. The OEM is an NGK Iridium. I have attached a picture of one of my old plugs. What do you guys think?
They look pretty normal. But you have to measure the gap to know.
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Old 05-05-2017, 06:29 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by wingman358 View Post
They look pretty normal. But you have to measure the gap to know.


Don't they come pre-gapped from the factory?
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Old 05-05-2017, 06:31 PM   #31
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Why do you suppose Bren tuning was so adamant about replacing the spark plugs so early? When I picked up my car from them the first thing he said was I should replace my spark plugs very soon. Anyways the job is done!
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Old 05-05-2017, 06:37 PM   #32
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Why do you suppose Bren tuning was so adamant about replacing the spark plugs so early? When I picked up my car from them the first thing he said was I should replace my spark plugs very soon. Anyways the job is done!
For used plugs, you check the gap because it gradually widens (that is how spark plugs wear - they erode a little bit each time they fire). When it gets too wide it won't spark correctly. If you measure and find they are at like 0.100 when the spec is 0.034 (pulling this out of my as i have no idea what the actual spec is) then you just found a problem.

With new plugs you should always double check the gap even if they are pre-set from the factory. Why wouldn't you?
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Old 05-05-2017, 06:56 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by wingman358 View Post
For used plugs, you check the gap because it gradually widens (that is how spark plugs wear - they erode a little bit each time they fire). When it gets too wide it won't spark correctly. If you measure and find they are at like 0.100 when the spec is 0.034 (pulling this out of my as i have no idea what the actual spec is) then you just found a problem.



With new plugs you should always double check the gap even if they are pre-set from the factory. Why wouldn't you?


Great point, where or what is a good gap tool to buy?
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Old 05-05-2017, 07:18 PM   #34
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Great point, where or what is a good gap tool to buy?
You can get cheapo spark plug gappers at pretty much any parts store but they're cheaply made so I don't trust em much.

Better would be feeler gauges which you can use for many things and they will last forever if you treat them right.
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Old 05-05-2017, 07:51 PM   #35
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I am a Sales Manager for a Honda Dealer in MA. I will have one of my techs check the gap in the plugs I removed and see how far they crept in 10k miles.
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Old 05-07-2017, 12:55 PM   #36
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The FA20DIT only uses one set of plugs. The OEM is an NGK Iridium. I have attached a picture of one of my old plugs. What do you guys think?
Actually, they look a little carbon fouled.
What kind of driving do you do? Easier to cut & paste than type:
Short trip stop-and-go city driving and prolonged idling, on the other hand, are NOT good for the plugs because the plugs may not get hot enough to burn off all of the deposits. So as deposits accumulate, the risk of misfire goes up. And if the plugs get dirty enough, they will misfire. The electrical energy from the ignition coil that normally creates the spark will short circuit to ground across the deposits on the center electrode instead of jumping across the electrode gap to ignite the air/fuel mixture.
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Old 05-07-2017, 01:20 PM   #37
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Actually, they look a little carbon fouled.

What kind of driving do you do? Easier to cut & paste than type:

Short trip stop-and-go city driving and prolonged idling, on the other hand, are NOT good for the plugs because the plugs may not get hot enough to burn off all of the deposits. So as deposits accumulate, the risk of misfire goes up. And if the plugs get dirty enough, they will misfire. The electrical energy from the ignition coil that normally creates the spark will short circuit to ground across the deposits on the center electrode instead of jumping across the electrode gap to ignite the air/fuel mixture.


The past 6 months has been winter for me. So yes I warm the car up and it idles for 20+ minutes. But now that the weather is getting warmer I warm it up for 10 minutes or until the cold start drops in rpms. I drive 60 miles a day in and out of traffic.
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Old 05-07-2017, 02:08 PM   #38
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So yes I warm the car up and it idles for 20+ minutes.
Don't do that. Just start it, let it idle for like 30 seconds and start driving keeping the RPMs low until it warms up.
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Old 05-07-2017, 02:28 PM   #39
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Don't do that. Just start it, let it idle for like 30 seconds and start driving keeping the RPMs low until it warms up.


Noted!
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Old 05-08-2017, 08:06 AM   #40
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The past 6 months has been winter for me. So yes I warm the car up and it idles for 20+ minutes. But now that the weather is getting warmer I warm it up for 10 minutes or until the cold start drops in rpms. I drive 60 miles a day in and out of traffic.
Well, that explains your carbon fouling right there.

There is absolutely no need to let a car warm up like that unless, of course, you want the car to nice and toasty when you climb in. Unless you are driving naked, the usual clothes and coat should be enough.

Like Sillo said, start it, let it warm up slightly and start driving. Just don't drive it hard until the water temp and oil pressure are up to normal. That means your oil pressure should be around 35 at isle.
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Old 05-09-2017, 11:18 PM   #41
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I do not WOT or boost until my oil temp hits the optimal 185 degrees.
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Old 11-04-2017, 09:04 PM   #42
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Update: my clutch began completely slipping under high load. Replaced with ACT SB5-HDSS clutch kit with resurfaced oem flywheel. Added the Velox billet clutch fork as well. Car is back to life!!
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Old 11-22-2017, 08:18 AM   #43
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Update: my clutch began completely slipping under high load. Replaced with ACT SB5-HDSS clutch kit with resurfaced oem flywheel. Added the Velox billet clutch fork as well. Car is back to life!!
Hows the new clutch holding up? Any issues?
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Old 11-22-2017, 10:38 PM   #44
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Hows the new clutch holding up? Any issues?


The first 2000 miles was tough. There was a lot of shudder and chatter especially uphill. At about 2300 miles I was getting frustrated with the shudder so I did two rev limiter launches at about 3800 rpm and boom the shudder was gone. Clutch feels amazing now and I would highly recommend.

I would advise to have the oem flywheel resurfaced or replaced with an oem flywheel. Do not go with a light weight flywheel. Also, while in there I installed a Velox Billet Clutch Fork just to avoid any future headaches with a cracked oem clutch fork.

I had the car retuned yesterday and had impressive gains over my tune in the spring. Only changes were the clutch and a Boomba BPV.

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Old 11-24-2017, 11:17 PM   #45
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I would advise to have the oem flywheel resurfaced or replaced with an oem flywheel. Do not go with a light weight flywheel.
Why are you making this recommendation?
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Old 11-24-2017, 11:31 PM   #46
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Why are you making this recommendation?


Two of my friends got the light weight flywheel with the clutch kit and drivability was a bit off in the low end with excessive noise. Also there was some issue with a misfire CEL. Subaru engineers designed the OEM flywheel very carefully for this drivetrain.
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Old 11-25-2017, 12:45 PM   #47
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Why are you making this recommendation?
Just do some research on lightweight flywheels then you will see why they are not the greatest things people make them out to be.
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