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Old 09-10-2018, 03:17 AM   #1
ukr823f
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 367213
Join Date: Sep 2013
Vehicle:
2000 Legacy BE

Default Legacy B4 - daily race car



SPECS 2018

ENGINE
EJ20Y swap ( 2.0 liter stock legacy BL JDM engine. DUAL AVCS, 9.5 compression ratio)
STI GRB intake manifold
STI GRB intercooler
STI GRB 565cc injectors
TGV delete
IHI VF45 turbo (17 psi) (rotated cold side)



TRANSMISSION

5MT TY754VBAAA 4.11
Gearbox rear DCCD install into TY754VBAAA
Rear diff 4.11 - Shuretrack
Custom short shifter
6MT Transmission Mount

Tires
TOYO DRB 215\45 R17 treadwear 340

Wheel rims
Japanese P1 Body Club R17

Brake
Front - WRX 4 pot caliper with Power Stop pads and disc
Rear - WRX 2 pot caliper with Power Stop pads and disc
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ______________________________
Acceleration measurements
0-30kmh - 0.92sec
0-60kmh - 2.16sec
0-100kmh - 5.2sec (
1\4 mile - 13.18sec
100-200kmh - 14sec
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ______________________________
Greetings to all. I read this forum for a long time. a lot of useful information found. But now I decided to tell about my car after a long time. I apologize in advance for my bad English, I live in Ukraine, so it's possible that somewhere there will be mistakes. But I will try to write as simple as possible to understand

So, I bought my car in 2012. It was a simple standard Subaru Legacy BE. The motor is atmospheric, 2 liters EJ201, automatic transmission 4-step, four-wheel drive. The mileage at the time of purchase was 225,000 miles. Normal velor saloon, climate control. In general - a standard machine in a well-groomed condition.
So vona looked at the time of purchase in 2012 year.






Buying a car, I already knew that it would not be standard, and thoughts were circling in my head - to put a turbocharger, put a manual gearbox, another salon ... But I continued to drive for a while on a standard car, just reading forums and collecting information

By the summer, from the tuning that I did - it was the color of the intake manifold painted in a color for work and also welded an unequal exhaust manifold to hear the sound of the subaru's favorite sound, Bu bu bu bu



Also by the summer I bought wheel rims - real Japanese P1 Body Club R17 and rubber Avon ZZ3






A month later I bought and installed a muffler Pro Sport Drag. The sound became even loud - but quite tolerable for everyday driving and very juicy. Subaru sounded like it should sound!



With the installation of 17 wheels, I realized that the standard braking system is already doing poorly, and it was decided to refine the braking system. On the front axle set 4POT WRX caliper and discs, on the rear axle (via adapters) 2POT WRX caliper and wheels. Replaced the brake fluid and a miracle! the car began to brake normally.






On this, while I stop, in the next posts will be even more interesting. There will be swaps and competitions.
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Last edited by ukr823f; 09-12-2018 at 04:49 AM.
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Old 09-10-2018, 03:19 AM   #2
ukr823f
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Member#: 367213
Join Date: Sep 2013
Vehicle:
2000 Legacy BE

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All the time I wanted a dashboard, which was installed on the JDM version of the car OPTITRON (as I understood in the US, this type of instrument panel is called a blackface) panel of the ABC version. The dashboard was without connectors, but so after the first fitting I already realized that my dashboard is BOLT-ON the connectors. I would not have come up with connector C, if there was an optotronic panel was version D, and so everything is just super. I decided to just rewire the connectors. The first little problem, is the lack of bulbs for indicating the immobilizer and overheating of the oil in the automatic transmission. And if the first one did not scare me, then the second one is mandatory. I decided to solve this problem by installing the C14 connector (a common panel) in connector B1 (optitron). This is an R.DIFF indication lamp. But we now know that this is not R.DIFF but the oil overheating in the automatic gearbox . The second problem is the optitronic panel of devices does not fit into the place of the standard instrument panel, because it is caused by a block of (ignition cold luminious lamp) in the duct of the stove - it is solved by a construction hair dryer (hot air) and giving the desired shape to this air duct. Every connector that I pulled out-I marked with a paint tape with a written contact-from where I extracted it. The illumination is still set to the maximum value - this I made by connecting the contacts C2 and C3 between each other.
A pleasant bonus was the "reduction" of the mileage of 320,000 km .
Ahead is still the implementation of the indication of the automatic transmission speed on the instrument panel.

I add a picture with pinout - Plain panel -> Optitron series ABC






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Old 09-10-2018, 03:20 AM   #3
ukr823f
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 367213
Join Date: Sep 2013
Vehicle:
2000 Legacy BE

Default

Installing the dashboard - optitron (ABC series) with a window to indicate the number of gear included at the moment in the automatic transmission box. Well, it would not be interesting if you do not use this indicator.

After reading the forum drom.ru and chatting in a fairly large topic on the optotron, I decided to manufacture. The processor of the display system was chosen as Attiny2313, because it lacked attini13 feet . I did not know what current is consumed to display the included gear on the optotrone, so I did not dare to connect the inputs of the instrument panel directly to the legs. Outputs of my unit implemented on logical N-channel transistors IRLML2502 in SOT23 package. These crumbs are capable of much! There are only four outputs (A1, A2, A3, A4).

The inputs involve a larger-
1) Solenoid # 1 (control of the included gear)
2) Solenoid No. 2 (monitoring of the gear engaged)
3) Input - Parking
4) Input - Revers (Reverse)
5) Input - Neutral (Neutral)

Inputs 3, 4,5 was used to ensure that when the Parkings and Backtrack are on, the indicator of the optotron did not display anything. When the Neutral is turned on, the optitronic panel displays "-". Well, with the D 3 2 1 on, the currently-engaged transmission in the automatic transmission is displayed.

I also implemented something like the animation when the ignition is turned on.
So, in more detail.

terminal status plate for display on the optitrone gear


There is such a tablet in which you can see that we need to apply to the outputs in order to ignite this or that figure. On wires ***1040;1 ***1040;2 ***1040;3 ***1040;4 constantly there is + 5V. And in order to ignite any figure, we must, in accordance with the plate, press the necessary conclusion to the "ground". Let's say we want to display "1" - the first transfer, for this we need to send lots of A1 and A3 leads. And in order to display the "4" - the fourth transfer, we need to submit to the output of A3 - the mass. So everything is simple.

This is how my controller works with such a simple job. It looks at the input states, and, depending on this state, configures the pins.

For connection to solenoids and to the selector AT transmission (selector condition (PRN), we open the booklet by the car, and we search for a tablet of pinout of the brain of the automatic transmission.
I have three connectors on the TCU of the automatic transmission in three rows of contacts. Although described in the book that this pinout for boxes since 2001 with VDC, I have some kind of AT gearbox of 2000 year without VDC . All the inputs to my controller I took next to the TCU of the automatic transmission. It was necessary to find 5 wires. The contact numbers for the connection were
1) Solenoid 1 - connector B54 / 22
2) Solenoid 2 - connector B54 / 5
3) "P" - connector B55 / 1
4) "R" - connector B55 / 3
5) "N" - connector B55 / 14

The inputs to the microcontroller from the solenoids are connected through a resistive divider to match the levels 12V -> 5V. Inputs from the selector automatic transmission (PRN) are connected through diodes 1n4148, cathodes to the brain of the automatic transmission.

Video -> Subaru Legacy ***1086;***1090;***1086;***1073;***1088;***1072;***1078;***1077;***1085;***1080;***1077; ***1090;***1077;***1082;***1091;***1097;***1077;***1081; ***1087;***1077;***1088;***1077;***1076;***1072;***1095;***1080; ***1085;***1072; ***1086;***1087;***1090;***1080;***1090;***1088;***1086;***1085;***1077; - YouTube




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Old 09-10-2018, 03:51 AM   #4
ukr823f
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 367213
Join Date: Sep 2013
Vehicle:
2000 Legacy BE

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Swap Manual transmission

Good afternoon Today in the morning I decided to tell you about yesterday's first day of the swap with the automatic transmission on the manual. In appearance, there are no difficulties, but there are a lot of difficulties. Especially if wit does not work, then everything is complicated.

The first thing that it all starts with is checking the availability of all the necessary details for the swap, for when you remove the automatic transmission, there will be no way back.

So, first, we remove everything with regard to the air filter and the throttle assembly (it will prevent the automatic converter from turning off through the window in the engine block.) To unscrew the hydrotransformer, it is more convenient to remove the collector, but if you do not do this, you can unscrew it with an end key, but it needs to be unscrewed To sharpen an end to remove a facet on a key, for heads of bolts very short and the key and strives to jump off.



We unscrew the starter, having previously disconnected the positive battery terminal!

Then crawl under the car, unscrew the exhaust (downpipe and preferably the middle part) Then unscrew the Aluminum protection cardan shaft. Everything, before us now cardan, and we can twist it. We release the suspension bearing, and unscrew the 4 rear propeller shaft bolts. After that, unscrew the pendant bearing and carefully pull out the driveshaft from the automatic transmission.

In the photo, the difference between the automatic transmission and the manual transmission is visible. To the left of the manual transmission.



While under the car - tear off all the bolts fastening the automatic transmission, as well as unscrew the lower bolts securing the box to the block - and the most dirty two nuts fastening the engine to the engine block.

We pass to the front drives. Take the screw or something else that fits the diameter, and knock out the spring stoppers that fix the internal CV joints on the bones. Next - remove one link of the stabilizer, and unscrew the ball mount to the pivot. You can of course get it out of the cone-and-bottom lower fastener, but we went exactly along the way of removing the upper part of the ball. Here everything is simple, the bolt of the ball joint support was unscrewed, the lever is pushed down by mounting, and the comrade pulls the rotary cam on himself, the ball goes out of the fastening, and pulling the swivel fist, remove the inner SHRUS from the output shaft of the automatic transmission. Then we return the ball joint to its place, we put it on (we do not need to twist it, for doing the same thing when inserting the CV joint in a mechanical gearbox.) The same is done with the second side.

Next, we disconnect all the electricians of the automatic transmission - 1 connector in the area of ***8203;***8203;the selector, and two connectors on top of the automatic transmission bell. Next, disconnect the two hoses from the automatic transmission cooling line.

We remove fastening of the selector of transfers to ***1040;***1050;***1055;***1055;. Unscrew 1 bolt by 12, and 3 or 2 bolts to 14. Remove the stopper, and we will isolate this entire mechanism.

Now, we bandage the automatic transmission through the oil filter, behind the semi-axles with the help of a strong rope. We used the old car safety belts. We hang the telpher, and we catch the box to it. Next, unscrew the upper traverse-bone of the mechanical transmission. Take it off completely right away, otherwise it will interfere later.




So we have left the automatic transmission to keep only on the telpher and the lower attachment to the body of the car. Now the most interesting! One person goes into the pit, puts the safety bars in the area of ***8203;***8203;the automatic transmission tray, and unscrews the gearbox fastenings to the body. The box in this case will hang on the motor, and does not get anywhere. Now one on top of the winch with a mounting shovel, and the other on the shank of the gearbox. The one that on the top disconnects the scapula from the motor, and the one who is shaking it from below, so that it slides slowly from the pins. When the automatic transmission goes off the studs, it will lie on the beam of the engine. Now the one that comes from below, rests against what can and pulls on the box, and the one that tops, lowers the winch down. If you tied a box correctly, then no load on the person from below. The box hangs at the center of its gravity and the bottom one needs to be directed only.

Well, that's all - 110 kg safely placed on the floor of the pit ... And in the car the place was vacated under our manual))

Next, remove the remnants of the automatic transmission - remove the gearshift lever.

Next - unscrew the iron crown which is bolted to the crankshaft - to which the bagel of automatic transmission is attached. Unscrew the 8 bolts, remove this tin, and debug it further along with the bolts, they are no longer useful. For fixing the flywheel, 8 new bolts are required.

Next, I changed the bearing in the flywheel. To not climb then on these trifles.


We fasten a flywheel. Prostavochka of tin round, which stood earlier is not required! It is not necessary to put it (and it will not). Stop the crankshaft at the same time as when unscrewing.


Before installing the clutch basket, I recommend checking the clamping mechanism of the clutch release bearing. For us, first encountered with such a system of squeezing the clutch had to suffer removing once again, but all because the release bearing was not fixed in the clutch basket. Therefore, I advise you to check the ring for production and it is advisable to turn the ring - stop backwards, well, and the antennae to press. Then everything will be trouble-free.

So, we put the drive and the shopping cart. Since the centering mandrel, I never had any offspring, put it out as always "on the eye." Screw the basket 6 bolts to the flywheel.

Next - on the gearbox we smear the splined part, and also the place where the thrust bearing lubricates. We insert the clutch fork, penetrate its axis, and screw the hexagon, which presses the pin.

Well, everything - then who on that garazd, or with a hands on the box to the motor, or who does not want to strain (as we did) - we hang the manual gearbox on the winch and raise it. One lifts from above, the second in the pit guides the box. The main thing is to string the box on the motor studs. Further . push it to the motor, and the comrade who is on top - rotating the crankshaft to this place to combine the splines of the gearbox, and the one who pushes the gearbox forward from below. We have the second time docked all in just 5 minutes.

When the mechanical gearbox is docked, start around the perimeter of its bolt to the motor. Next, put the cardan. Under it, the extended bolts were required, since on the old for some reason the fastening to the body was without rubber pads.

After that, we go into the car's interior and remove the clutch pedal of the brake as on the manual gearbox is a completely different kind and arrangement of the pedals. Vobschem remove the old pedal knot, put a new one. Everything is screwed into the same places. Further on the left studs from the engine board - we fasten the clutch cylinder and the main line from the master cylinder to the clutch slave cylinder that is on the gearbox.

Having finished with the mechanical part - go to the electrician.

The first thing we need to do is close the starter chain. Since on the automatic transmission only in the positions P and N it was possible to start the motor, then we need to close the two wires so that we can start the motor in any position of our selector, etc.. Since I do not have a clutch sensor, I've connected it without it (according to the standard, the car should only be started with the clutch pressed out). From the picture on the Internet, I realized that you need to look for a white with a red strip and white with a black stripe of wire. But white with a red strip for some reason it was not in my podkapotnoy chip, but it was white with a black stripe of a larger cross section than the rest, as well as white with a green stripe of a larger cross section. Well, we carefully close them, read the prayer (from the first afterburner) and turn the key - and here it is the moment of happiness - the motor works!

I closed these wires in a simple way-the scotchlock pin. We mazel Vaseline, so that moisture does not fall, and it's beautifully connected.

While the engine is running, we check the adequacy of the gears on, the adequacy of the clutch operation, etc. So, everything is good, the engine is deaf, and we continue to sort out the electrician.

We connect the reversing lights. On the same chip, on which we closed the white wires to work starter we are looking for two thin wires - brown with a yellow strip and green with a black strip.
clean them and parallel to them we connect two wires from the reverse gear sensor.

Why did not I cut chips at once? Well, I just in case left everything on the standard, so that it's not enough, nothing was done about the wiring coordinatively. Everything remains as it was, and is simply not used.

Now we need to connect the speed sensor. On it are three pins - mass, + 12V, signal. In order not to pull all these wires far, I extended them just to the instrument. The signal speed is still on the brains and from there will fall on our speedometer.
We remove the device and, according to the pinout, connect the speed sensor to the necessary wires (here we connect to such pins if you have an AVC series optical pick-up
weight - A18
+ 12V - A8
speed signal - A11

Speed ***8203;***8203;sensor pinout


Now we are looking for a pinout for your computer, and we are looking for a piece like the IDENTIFICATOR of the automatic gearbox \ MKPP in a raspovochke. This pin, if you close on the mass, then the brains will work in the MKPP mode. I have this B135 \ 25

Looking for a brain chip, the place where this wire should be. Naturally there will be empty. So I took the pin-pin "mother" like the one on the photo, we compress the postings on it


And we insert the connector into our ECU.

And we connect our postings with a ground of sensors. According to the pinout, this is B136 \ 16.
Here in the photo this wire. Red with a blue strip.

We connect the laptop, run the diagnostics and check, closing to the mass of sensors our postings - whether the value in the diagnosis changes - AT \ MT. If AT vechile - OFF appears in the diagnostics during a fault on the ground, then everything is correct and the brains are in the MKPP mode in our country.

Then there is the last stage - the neutral sensor. We pull two wires from the neutral sensor on the manual transmission, to our engine control unit. One of the wires is connected to the same location where we connected our ID of the AT \ MT. That is, one of the wires we hang we connect to the ground. And connect the second wire to the start-stop switch - B136 \ 26. MODE wire that went to this pin. By the end that goes to the brains we connect our wire from the neutral sensor, and the second end that went to the spit, just isolate.

At me it turned out that two wires nearby were Neutral 26th pin, identifier MKPP 25th pin.

Finally run the diagnostics, and move the shift lever to any position from the neutral, check whether the value of the neutral changes in the diagnosis. Here in the photo you can see when the lever is in neutral, when at speed


At this, the swap of the manual gearbox is over, and you can go out and test the real control of the SUBARU.

Last edited by ukr823f; 09-10-2018 at 04:12 AM.
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Old 09-10-2018, 07:18 PM   #5
Patrick Olsen
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 120
Join Date: Jul 1999
Chapter/Region: AKIC
Location: Where the Navy sends me...
Vehicle:
1997 Legacy 2.5GT
1996 Impreza coupe

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Some of your English doesn't make much sense, but that's OK. If it was in Ukrainian I wouldn't understand any of it! I look forward to seeing more about how you transformed your car.
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Old 09-11-2018, 10:13 AM   #6
ukr823f
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 367213
Join Date: Sep 2013
Vehicle:
2000 Legacy BE

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post
Some of your English doesn't make much sense, but that's OK. If it was in Ukrainian I wouldn't understand any of it! I look forward to seeing more about how you transformed your car.
I am sorry for my bad english. But I will try to find people who will correct my mistakes in writing.
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Old 09-11-2018, 10:29 AM   #7
ukr823f
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Member#: 367213
Join Date: Sep 2013
Vehicle:
2000 Legacy BE

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Greetings to all readers!
The record is small, as it is a rough teaser for the upcoming changes. I do not remember - I wrote or not, but I see the car, not in the drag racing version, namely in the sprint / rally / ring version ) yes yes yes, it's stupid to say you, given the size and weight of the car. But alas, the car weighs like an STI (1465 kg and a half of a tank of gasoline), the transmission and the engine are the same (well, very similar ), the suspension - with the help of the installation of normal components, will also be approximated. Well, I do not build a car at the national championship . In fact, a lot of motor sport events have been visited during the year, in which, for the most part, all the nuances that you need to "fix" by the car are determined.

The first is a gearbox. At me it is established from legacy B4 twinturbo JDM, with pair 4.11 (on the center - viskous which already one time sorted out). The transmission is excellent, and judging by the many reviews, it transfers power with dignity (within reasonable limits), and not reasonable limits on the stock turbines and you will not achieve it))))). But this accursed viskous spoils all pleasure. The hand brake for it is BAD, drift is BAD, and so on. Therefore, DCCD thoughts are in the head since the installation of the manual transmission. But to find the rear part of the gearbox with DCCD is unrealistic, and for the 5MT gearbox with DCCD the price is wanted like for 6MT almost. But, thanks to a friend found the rear of the gearbox from the STI typeRA, visually inspected, checked the coupling, and it was sent to them. Now we will cross the TY754VBAAA box with the DCCD back and get both a long box for driving along the track and driven by the moment transfer. DCCD Controller - I do it myself. It will be very similar to MAPDCCD controller.




The second nuance is the clutch. Everyone knows that the best option is to install a 6MT clutch in a 5MT box. To do this, you need - Flywheel, a starter from 6MT (this nuance will be discussed in more detail later), as well as a 6MT drive, a 6MT clutch basket.


The operation is not very difficult, but requires some attention, so as not to spoil anything, and do not over-refine the excess. The essence of the completion is that it is required in the 5MT bell to slightly twist the ribs and the fixing point of the starter, since the 6MT clutch basket sits higher, and therefore it clings to the bell of the gearbox with its bolts and its round part.

Well, for starters, I'll tell you what you need to buy, to install the 6MT clutch kit.
1) Starter - there are 3 options
Option A - you can cut a stock starter of an old sample (which is without a hood)
Option B - buy a 5MT starter, which works with a 6-clutch. This is the option I chose. Starter number - 23300AA381

Option ***1057; - purchase of a starter from 6MT (the starter differs in appearance and it is easy to recognize by external pins.


2) the 6MT clutch kit. If you are buying a used kit then it's easy to check everything - the metal ruler is taken and lie on the working surface of the flywheel and the clutch basket. Determine the clearance at the edge of the outer or inner (the basket of zaor is usually inside the working part.) After searching for data on normal bends, I found out that the difference is a 0.3 mm difference.

3) clutch disc - Original

4) Releaser - I took the EXEDY BRG601.

5) It will take a little longer to extend the clutch slave cylinder. This is done because on the 6MT, a slightly different fork clutch, and if nothing is lengthened then the clutch is slightly under-inflated. Therefore, I turned the stock adjustable. I want everything to be as accurate and perfect as possible.

So, when you have everything, and the mechanical gearbox is already on the ground - take the grinding machine and start to sharpen the metal. The algorithm is as follows:
-assemble clutch with flywheel assembly
-in the primary shaft
-Trust and on the marks where the basket is rubbed - the grinding machine is undermining. It's easy to get stuck, so do not press hard)))
-For the simplicity of the visual contact, apply the paint to the probable places of friction and by its disappearance-see where it was rubbed. There sharpen!

In the video below, I recorded the main stages

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Old 09-11-2018, 10:42 AM   #8
ukr823f
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Member#: 367213
Join Date: Sep 2013
Vehicle:
2000 Legacy BE

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The transmission I have is 754VBAAA, and the rear end with the DCCD from the 752th box (but apparently the tail even on the DCCD 754th box of the TY754VB1EA is exactly the same ...)

So the rear part of the 754th box with viscous coupling is removed, degrease the plane of the gearbox and put on the gasket. From below, the gasket was lubricated with a thin layer of sealant. At the TY752 tail we have already bolted the bolt from the rod. Pull the rod completely towards yourself, towards the output of the propeller shaft. Gently dress the 752th tail at the checkpoint. But we do not dress to the end - the gap between the tail and the checkpoint should be around 10-12mm. Next, take the stock and move it straight. Restricted? - then you rested in the three leashes of the gearshift - turn the stem of the gearbox counterclockwise and move it a little and then turn it around again just by the clock. Thus, you must "grope" the groove, where the fork of the gears must enter. When "groped and hit the groove, you can put the tail to the end and wind a pair of bolts to tighten the hub and tail.

Further everything is simple, you have to screw in the bolt-fixture into the gearshift rod, and you can check how the transmissions turn on. We turn on the gears from the first to the fifth and look at the coupling of the DC***1057;D. The higher the transmission, the faster the clutch will rotate. For rotation - I put the clutch kit on the primary shaft and rotated the shaft for it ...)

Actually, that's the whole procedure. Next, I still unscrewed the tail's tail cover and replaced the stuffing box of the shift shaft, and also changed the shaft of the propeller shaft. Then we twist it all with the specified moment, put the hatch of the tail in place and check it again. Everything, the check point is ready for installation.

Totally, what I did. A sturdy box from TY754VBAAA twin-turbine legacy with a pair of 4.11+ rear DCCD. I have a medium-long box that is convenient both for racing events and just for daily driving on the road. In the rear gearbox I have Suretrac, so it's already very interesting how it will go in the winter.

Oil in the box decided to fill Motul GEAR 300 75w90. Long chose between 75w140 and 75w90 - but still I thought that I do not drive around the ring for a long time, but in winter the car is constantly in operation, so 75w90 is more optimal ...

To help people, spare parts numbers:

The epiploon of the rod of a check point - 806718100
Gasket of the middle part of the gearbox - 32145AA030
Gasket of the rear of the gearbox - 33179AA030
Gear of the cardan shaft - 806735210
Bearing in the flywheel - select any 6201

TY754VBAAA


TY752 DCCD tail


exploded view of the gearbox




DCCD


oil
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Old 09-11-2018, 11:04 AM   #9
ukr823f
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Member#: 367213
Join Date: Sep 2013
Vehicle:
2000 Legacy BE

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Greetings to all!
Long saved this material. You can say the winter floor. Actually this year we as that very actively began to spend on amateur slaloms and amateur ring races organized by masters AdrenalineTime. It is a pity of course that the participants in the full drive is not so much, but in principle there are enough different suits. And the Mitsubishi Evo, and Mercedes, and naturally SUB.

My Subaru Legacy on the snow-ice cover always showed excellent results. Given that the tires - not studded, then these results are very good. But after this winter when I bought a set of studded tires for racing and realized that this is just an ideal option for a subaru in the winter.

An important factor was the installation of a lock Suretrac in the rear diff. Although it is not a LSD diff, but increased oversteer in some plug-in places, it helped a lot when passing studs. Handbrake, dosed work with gas, and the machine turns around the chip. When without blocking, the muzzle of the car always went outside, and some kind of incomprehensible corps de ballet came out.

Slalom basically rolled everything back to the 1st and 2nd places. But they are a bit boring, there are no emotions, since there is nowhere to be dispersed.

But the winter ring is 1.5 km long, this is a completely different story. This is where all factors come into play. And the ability to drive a car, and engine tuning (supercharging, etc.), and most importantly - TIRES.

As for the motor (EJ20X high compression), which according to the overwhelming majority claims that it is dying of even a small boost)). So - the motor for these two months of winter in full throttle mode - drove sooo much, and delivered a bunch of buzz! Well, the exhaust is a separate song - which I will post specially in a separate post. The motor is alive, and it continues to work out every dollar invested without any problems) And these dollars were invested in a swap - not so much.

Well, in fact, here's a selection of photos for all the events, let's say - THE MOST JUICE.










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Old 09-11-2018, 12:12 PM   #10
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The closing of the season on drag racing 2017
The weather, of course, spoiled the mood a little, although from the very morning everything was bright and beautiful, the sun ... But even the weather, which was spoiled, could not prevent a great time after a hard working week.
Actually this season the ride was not quite fun for my subaru - namely the broken 5MT grip which started to slip, it all exploded, that's why I switched to the 6MT clutch kit). Well, I can say - the only thing that scares me for is the 5MT gearbox, since the 6MT clutch is not something that keeps it dead, it's a feeling - like a hard-welded transmission. And this clutch does not care what kind of wheels you install, or it will crank them, or the transmission will be torn))). My wheels that used to stand on the 205 \ 65 R16 Subaru Forester now just decided that they would skid off if they were moving perfectly, or they would immediately fall through the revolutions if they tried to start from a lowered speed for the start.

On drag racing went to unwind and chat with friends. But along the way, I had to make races a couple of times. Actually, it's difficult even to call it because it's cold outside, but it started to drizzle. I naturally have a DCCD controller installed ) so all that came out of it is a great start in the form of drift. This is the only thing that pleased me ...
Actually, 6MT clutch works perfectly, DCCD tail works, that is, gives 65% torque back now for sure ))






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Old 09-12-2018, 04:19 AM   #11
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Photos from the close of the season by the time of attacks 2017
Well, that's closed the season TimeAttack 2017. 4 stages are held, and in the hands of an honestly deserved cup for first place in the class four wheel drive!
During the stages were all the elements - snow, rain, hell heat and just neutral weather. The run of the EJ20X turbo engine has already passed the mark of 20 000 km and continues to please me more! Actually, I plan to eliminate all the nuances of tires and suspension by the next season, and start it more productively. In the meantime, just add photos to memory ... how it all happened during the year ...







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Old 09-12-2018, 04:31 AM   #12
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Finally, you can start to describe something that's not trivial, like I went to competitions, swapped the motor, etc.))) At the moment I will describe what the subaru was never in the car - namely the dashboard based on the LCD matrix as on modern VAG, Range Rover, Mercedes, BMW. That is, in the premium class.

I have already announced the updated VENATOR (updated it means that the new is completely everything - from the creators of the program to all the elements of circuitry). For a long time, I approached this, for the reason that it is necessary or to do so that it was ideal, or not to do at all. The visual part has long been drawn, and the electronics are almost ready. But how to make a BOLT-ON solution for installation is very problematic. Take and cut the standard dashboard and on the "snot" all stick this pointless solution. It was necessary to do immediately and with dignity. Therefore, after the purchase of the matrix, minicomputer, etc. - all was postponed until the acquisition of a 3D printer. Yes yes yes, it is a 3D printer of its own, and not a trip to the firm where it is printed, since after simple calculations - the cost of costs is very high in this option.

I had an old dashboard (not an optotron), so I did not have to dismantle my car in order to mock it. It took about 8-10 hours to create a 3D model in SolidWorks. Next began the test stamps. it was spoiled for about 200 grams of plastic for printing (one did not fit, then one forgot to make a groove) - but in the end a finished 3D model of the device consisting of three parts
1) Outer mask (closing matrix)
2) Matrix housing
3) Rear part with fixing points for all modules of the dashboard (and this is MiniPC, and the unit for data collection and transmission.

Printing all the elements took about 18-20 hours. Well, the result is below in the photo. The world's first LCD instrument panel for the Subaru Legacy BE BH. As the work on this project is over, I will look for dashboards from different cars to create similar instrument panels for Subaru (all models), Toyota , Nissan.

Sobsvtenno briefly on the dashboard - this is a 12 inch matrix, which you can display everything that your heart desires in terms of design of the instrument panel. My friend has drawn at the moment almost 50 options for instrument panels. You can draw anything vobschem))). In addition to the standard data that is output (speedometer, tachometer, warning lamps) - the screen will also display such insanely useful data as EGT, fuel pressure, oil, oil temperature, AFR, indication of methanol inclusion and so on (yes, I have it will all be on the screen - as for a true turbo-supercharger it's all masthead) ... That is, on your device instead of the dull otomatometers now an animated compilation with a bunch of data about the machine. But that's not all. On the screen can be displayed Online Navigation in conjunction with devices. And yet, when you turn on the rear gear - the screen starts to display the video from the back camera ... You imagine that in general this dashboard can ... And since it works on Android - you can also gigabyte 10 music to record and listen to it by switching the buttons on the steering wheel ... write log ... One click of a button to switch the usual everyday screen to combat with which will be in the form of sport instruments such as AIM, Motec ... Is not it a miracle? especially considering that it can be put on a standard place)))

The VENTAOR instrument panel can accept up to 12-14 analog inputs. This is 3 times more data than on a standard set of three DEFI sensors, for example)

Here is the information at the moment ... Actually, I'm working on the project and then I will continue to share information on the project, on installing the dashboard in the car, etc. Soon everything will be more interesting and interesting!










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Old 01-19-2020, 06:48 PM   #13
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Hello. I apologize for the long break in writing articles. I will try to fix it.
We begin our hard transformations when 127 strong automatic machine in ... yes FIG knows what already))) ...

I ordered a manual transmission in Vladivostok. Long chose which to buy. The criteria were only such.
- 6mt until 2006
-Only with DCCD
-If possible, until 2004, so that hemp sticks out of the box, since it was necessary that the inner CV joint wear these shafts sticking out of the gearbox.

I did not consider gearboxes from Legacy 6MT - firstly because there is no DSSD, secondly there is no speed sensor (but this would be solvable.
Was bought 6MT TY856WB4KA ... which comes already without the "sticking shafts out of the box" - which are inserted inside the box and they are put on CV joints. But since I knew about this problem, half a year ago I bought two shafts that are inserted into the front differential of the 4EAT automatic transmission Subaru. The box has standard gears for JDM boxes. Suretrac front lock, final drive 3.9, 1: 1 transfer.
The numbers of these shafts that are inserted into the front differential are 38415-AA070


So ... further, in order to put these axles in a box of a new sample, it will be necessary to replace the seals, with those that go to these axes in the automatic transmission. YES YES YES - this is the main point. The glands on the boxes without these axes are completely different and have a different diameter. Without replacing the oil seals - you will get only one thing - Puddles of oil on the floor)

Here are the numbers of oil seals that you need for remaking. Keep in mind - it will take two oil seals and they differ - Left and Right. It is impossible to confuse!
806730031
806730032

The procedure for installing the axles is very simple ... We get the old oil seals from 6MT. We put new oil seals, lubricate the working surface with oil, and push the osm. Snap. Everything is ready.





While the gearbox is not installed on the car, we also change the gearbox shank oil seal under the cardan, as well as the gear selector oil seal. In 6MT, by the way, the oil seal changes much easier than in 5MT - there is no need to remove the shank cover for this.
Stem oil seal - 806716070

Before installing the gearbox, change the bearing in the flywheel. I installed the KOYO bearing.



Getting started installation


From a long time ago, the driveshaft I had after replacing the automatic transmission with 5MT. So cardan from 4st automatic transmission bolt-on 6MT. While shooting automatic transmission, I knew that I would definitely have 6mt, but then I still did not know when it would be . The same thing happens with swaps in other bodies. Only you need to buy a universal joint from a 4-stage automatic transmission! 4EAT which!

Rear gearbox - R160 with a gear ratio of 3.9 from legacy BL was found quickly if I am not mistaken. With an open differential without locking. But since I didn't want to lose the lock, I simply rearranged the SHURETRAK lock from my old gearbox with a gear ratio of 4.11 to R160 gearbox with a gear ratio of 3.9.

Now it feels like. This is a completely different car. It feels like I swapped the motor, too, as there was a sense of arriving torque (due to very short gears). The gears are very short ... The motor pulls well just incomparably with 5MT, where the first motor spins like a drill, you turn on the second gear and .... everything is lost ... City driving is ideal in 5th gear ... The gear selector is 6MT higher than 5MT, it works in a completely different way ... the shifts are shorter.


Strive to always do what your soul desires! If you dream - and do at least something so that the dream can come true, it will come true 100% ... One of my dreams that appeared back in 2013 came true ... And always strive to be no better than someone ... And better than you were yesterday!
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Old 01-19-2020, 07:05 PM   #14
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After installing 6MT with DCCD, it's time to start connecting DCCD. I made the controller myself, by analogy with MOTEC (I tried to copy its actions as much as possible). It took a lot of time to develop a setup program for the computer.




The pursued goals are maximum simplicity. And I think that I coped with this task). Connecting the unit in the car did not make any problems (you disassemble the interior more so that wiring is correctly and beautifully laid). A minimum of wires is connected to the computer:
Throttle Position
-Speed

The following wires are connected to the machine systems:
-Brake pedal
-Hand brake
-Auto \ Manual Button
Potentiometer for manual adjustment of the blocking coefficient

The accelerometer itself is built into the board, so an external connection is not required.

The entire installation is made without global dismantling of the cabin. The wiring to the DCCD clutch itself was brought out through the rubber plug under the steering wheel in the engine shield (above the clutch pedal). The installation location of the unit itself
chosen in such a way that it was located in the approximate center of the car, and the armrest area became an excellent place for this. There is a very interesting place where the block is ideally placed vertically, and the wiring goes along the central tunnel under the plastic. This place is just the installation area of ***8203;***8203;the standard SUBARU G-sensor. In the setup program, you can select any orientation of the block - a connector along the car, across the car, horizontally, vertically ...

The controller has built-in indication with LEDs, for those who put the unit somewhere in front of their eyes. On the front panel there are LEDs for the degree of blocking of the DSSD coupling, as well as a mini USB port for connecting to a computer. To connect, you only need a USB cable - Mini USB cable.

Also in the unit there is a separate connector for connecting an external display on standard Subaru dashboards. That is, you can connect the indication of the degree of locking of the center differential to the native dashboard.



This is what the controller setup program looks like. The controller has 4 fully customizable cards. One of them for acceleration mode, the second for braking mode. There is also the opportunity to turn off the use of the built-in accelerometer so that it does not interfere with the work.

ACCELERATION MAP - ***1090;***1072;***1073;***1083;***1080;***1094;***1072; ***1085;***1072; ***1086;***1089;***1085;***1086;***1074;***1077; ***1087;***1086;***1083;***1086;***1078;***1077;***1085;***1080;***1103; ***1087;***1077;***1076;***1072;***1083;***1080; ***1072;***1082;***1089;***1077;***1083;***1077;***1088;***1072;***1090;***1086;***1088;***1072;/***1089;***1082;***1086;***1088;***1086;***1089;***1090;***1080;, ***1088;***1072;***1073;***1086;***1090;***1072;***1077;***1090; ***1087;***1088;***1080; ***1086;***1090;***1087;***1091;***1097;***1077;***1085;***1085;***1086;***1081; ***1087;***1077;***1076;***1072;***1083;***1080; ***1090;***1086;***1088;***1084;***1086;***1079;***1072;
BREAKING MAP - ***1090;***1072;***1073;***1083;***1080;***1094;***1072; ***1085;***1072; ***1086;***1089;***1085;***1086;***1074;***1077; ***1087;***1086;***1083;***1086;***1078;***1077;***1085;***1080;***1103; ***1087;***1077;***1076;***1072;***1083;***1080; ***1075;***1072;***1079;***1072;/***1089;***1082;***1086;***1088;***1086;***1089;***1090;***1080;, ***1088;***1072;***1073;***1086;***1090;***1072;***1077;***1090; ***1087;***1088;***1080; ***1085;***1072;***1078;***1072;***1090;***1086;***1081; ***1087;***1077;***1076;***1072;***1083;***1080; ***1090;***1086;***1088;***1084;***1086;***1079;***1072;
***1042; ***1090;***1072;***1073;***1083;***1080;***1094;***1077; ***1086;***1090; 0 ***1076;***1086; 100% - ***1101;***1090;***1086; ***1087;***1088;***1086;***1094;***1077;***1085;***1090; ***1073;***1083;***1086;***1082;***1080;***1088;***1086;***1074;***1082;***1080; ***1084;***1091;***1092;***1090;***1099;. ***1045;***1089;***1090;***1077;***1089;***1090;***1074;***1077;***1085;***1085;***1086;, ***1074;***1086; ***1074;***1088;***1077;***1084;***1103; ***1088;***1072;***1073;***1086;***1090;***1099; ***1088;***1091;***1095;***1085;***1086;***1075;***1086; ***1090;***1086;***1088;***1084;***1086;***1079;***1072; - ***1084;***1091;***1092;***1090;***1072; ***1087;***1086;***1083;***1085;***1086;***1089;***1090;***1100;***1102; ***1088;***1072;***1079;***1073;***1083;***1086;***1082;***1080;***1088;***1091;***1077;***1090;***1089;***1103;.

Well, a little on the sensations of driving with and without a controller. Firstly - when driving with the controller turned off, the car is almost rear-wheel drive. Naturally, in the conditions of driving for a while it even interferes, since incorrect gas operation and you begin to lose time trying to make the car go where you need to. With the controller connected in auto mode, the control changes dramatically. Feels like when starting off, on a slippery surface, you feel the "composure" of the car. Feeling as if the car is repelled by all 4 wheels and even in the case of slipping the control is very easy for the car. When driving in a bend, the car becomes much more assembled - if before, roughly speaking, I was afraid to get gas because I could overdo it, now, the block from the calculations of speed \ longitudinal and lateral acceleration blocks the clutch by the desired percentage, thereby forcing the car to go where it should. If it is easier to say - for example, a platform, put the lock on zero and try to go along one circular path without shifting from it. The machine then goes inside and then straightens. It's hard to make 10 even circles ... When driving with the DSSD controller, in auto mode, you generally put yourself on the same trajectory and go at least 10, at least 15 circles. That is, the same exercise is much simpler ... Well, if it is figuratively described in a nutshell. In general, Subaru and DCCD is a very cool bunch. Words can not describe ...

Well, while I continue to continue to improve the algorithms and modes. Now I am writing a separate mode for drag racing, which is very simple - the clutch is locked at the start and unlocks completely at a certain speed. Well, I rewrite and modify many more interesting little things and refine them during the test on my car.
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Old 01-19-2020, 07:12 PM   #15
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Well, this is a short video during the ecu tuning. I tune ecu myself, because I just like it. In the video, the stock EJ20X engine (subaru legacy BL BP), turbine Garett GT3076R. Boost 1.5 bar. 76mm Exhaust, 44mm Tial wastegate. 60-120 mph - 9.7 sek

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Old 12-09-2020, 01:52 AM   #16
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I haven't written anything here for a long time. After a year of driving in a configuration with a large turbine, I decided to return to the stock turbine for a reason - It is much more pleasant to move in the city with the stock turbine. Much earlier the turbine goes into boost, much earlier the maximum torque appears. My engine ECU firmware allows you to switch two cards (denso 32bit ECU from Subaru Legacy BL BP). Therefore, I implemented two driving modes for myself, 1st mode) 91RON gasoline, boost pressure 14 psi with a decrease to 12psi - power at the wheels is about 245-250whp. 2nd mode - 93RON petrol, boost pressure 20 psi with a decrease to 14 psi - power at the wheels approximately 270whp. By the way, I always like to measure the dynamics of a car after self-flashing the ECU by measuring 60-120mph (we call it measuring 100-200 km / h) - so on a standard IHI VF45 turbine, with a car weight of 1630 kg (with a driver) - the car drives 60-160 mph in 13.16 sec. For a city family car, this is very dynamic for me and there is no need for a large turbine). Apparently I'm slowly getting old ...

photos taken in October 2020


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Old 12-10-2020, 01:07 PM   #17
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Nice work. Very impressive!
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