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Old 01-19-2020, 09:18 PM   #31451
DieselDorf
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You can replace individual studs I donít think itís teriblg hard either.
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Old 01-19-2020, 09:32 PM   #31452
IHaveAHorse
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Yeah, you don't even have to take the hub off like you do on a lot of cars. There are notches in the plate that holds the studs so you can get one in behind it and angle it just right to go in. You'll probably want to do something like put an old junky crescent wrench around the stud, and then drive the nut on with it pressing against the wrench to prevent it from damaging the hub. You don't need to pull it all the way tight, just enough that it won't slip back out and cause a massive headache when you're trying to put the rotor or wheel back on. Once you tighten the lugnuts properly with the wheel on it'll pull it all the way in.
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Old 01-19-2020, 10:21 PM   #31453
CalTech87
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Good thing I came here beforehand. Just watched a video that shows the backside. They're M12 - 1.25, but what length...
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Old 01-19-2020, 10:32 PM   #31454
IHaveAHorse
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They're something around 3". I just went to the autozone or oreilly website or whatever and looked up wheel studs for the 2012 Impreza and the ones they listed were right. Might be able to find more info by looking around rockauto for parts numbers and then researching.
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Old 01-19-2020, 10:40 PM   #31455
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45mm from the inside surface of the head of the bolt, 48mm including the thickness of the head.
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Old 01-20-2020, 11:48 AM   #31456
CalTech87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IHaveAHorse View Post
They're something around 3". I just went to the autozone or oreilly website or whatever and looked up wheel studs for the 2012 Impreza and the ones they listed were right. Might be able to find more info by looking around rockauto for parts numbers and then researching.
Thanks again! Not sure what gave me the idea this couldn't be done. Or that it's seemingly so common.

Found the stud on Oreily's website and it looks like they have them in stores. Picked up a tool to help with pulling the stud through vice the "traditional" washer/nut combo I've seen videos of.
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Old 01-20-2020, 09:59 PM   #31457
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I'm grateful that they put on hubs that allow you to replace the studs without removing it. It seems some vehicles come with hubs where you have to take the entire hub off to replace the studs. That would be a ridiculous unnecessary nightmare.
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Old 01-21-2020, 12:20 AM   #31458
Commander Keen
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Did a stud a few months ago. I was the last to torque the lug nuts and did so to spec.

The nut let go of the wheel easily enough, then locked up on the way out somehow, trashing the stud.

Seems to be a semi-common occurrence on Subarus.

I took the opportunity to add locking nuts.
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Old 01-22-2020, 03:38 PM   #31459
IHaveAHorse
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Is the rear wiper speed sensitive? Maybe I'm just imagining it because everything seems faster when you're on the highway, but I swear the rear wiper on the intermittent speed is slower when you're driving slowly or stationary, and faster when you're at highway speed.
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Old 01-24-2020, 09:59 AM   #31460
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I think you're imagining it.

--kC
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Old 01-24-2020, 06:43 PM   #31461
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It's probable, sitting there in the garage or parked wherever 5 seconds seems like a long time, and driving it goes by a lot faster and it's not like I'm going to stare at my rear wiper to time it while driving on the freeway.
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Old 01-24-2020, 07:33 PM   #31462
NewSubie08
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Can someone please let me know if a 14 Crosstrek strut bar will fit my 2015 subaru impreza. I have used the search feature and have come up short. Can someone please advise?

also i tried to start a new post regarding this matter but before you start a new post it automatically generates some post based on your title. I read through the post but it didn't apply to me but, still the box where I type my post is blocked out in gray and doesn't allow me to type. How do I get passed this?
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Old 01-28-2020, 05:39 PM   #31463
dcon9999
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Hey all, need some support and or favors. I need to replace the TPMS module on my car. I think it shorted out a year or so ago, and randomly flashes low tire pressure indications on my dash in a pattern that identifies that it's not connecting to my sensors. Yes, I've replaced the sensors and both Subaru and an independent shop have failed in their attempts to pair the sensors to the module.

So, the only challenge is, the TPMS module is the same as the wireless/remote door lock unlock module for the vehicle. In order to install a new wireless remote module, I need to reprogram my current keys to the new module. online, there are videos that show the sequence to do this, however, it requires you to enter a serial number for your key. Every video and internet resource that I found identifies that this serial number is located inside the key fob near the battery. both I and the Subaru dealer have completely disassembled both of my keys and have not found a serial number on either. My local dealer doesn't know how to help me at this point and suspects that it may have been left off of the 2012 model and key fob change year.

Can you all confirm whether you have a serial number on the inside of your key near the battery? It's supposed to be like 14 digits long and all numbers.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-28-2020, 05:40 PM   #31464
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IHaveAHorse View Post
Is the rear wiper speed sensitive? Maybe I'm just imagining it because everything seems faster when you're on the highway, but I swear the rear wiper on the intermittent speed is slower when you're driving slowly or stationary, and faster when you're at highway speed.
Aside from automatically changing from intermittent to on when you're in reverse, I've never noticed any speed difference
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Old 01-28-2020, 07:11 PM   #31465
CalTech87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcon9999 View Post

Can you all confirm whether you have a serial number on the inside of your key near the battery? It's supposed to be like 14 digits long and all numbers.
I saw nothing resembling 14 digits long and all numbers.

Quite a coincidence though, I was just thinking I may get TPMS installed on my second set of wheels instead of seeing the yellow light all the time.
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Old 01-28-2020, 07:52 PM   #31466
DieselDorf
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I hate tpms, if I were you I wouldnít bother getting it fixed and just pull the bulb. Although you might not be able to get new tires as shops are required to have tpms.

They may not care as long as you have the sensors in the tires and the light isnít on so not sure.

Iíve found they only come on when the tire is severely low anyways so you could see it low as you enter your car.
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Old 01-28-2020, 09:11 PM   #31467
dcon9999
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Thanks @caltech87

I agree dieseldorf. I was very close to opening up the dash and removing the bulb instead of replacing the sensor in all four. However, after replacing the sensor on all four and the journey I've gone on trying to troubleshoot this and a remote start issue, I'd prefer to just get it fixed. No intention on selling the car, etc. But would like or to work lol
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Old 01-29-2020, 02:22 AM   #31468
IHaveAHorse
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I want to turn off my TPMS light, how do you access the lights so you can disconnect the TPMS light?
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Old 01-29-2020, 08:35 AM   #31469
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It's even easier than I expected. Telescoping wheel out and down as far as possible, unscrew the obvious gauge cluster screws, pull the trim (might require a screwdriver or something to push the top out), remove the even more obvious screws, pull forward slightly, put your hand behind it and unplug the connector, then undo the obvious plastic clips on the actual cluster you removed. It's like being guided through the disassembly without a guide, really easy.

You can pull the black plastic sheet that blocks/transmits light in the shape of each indicator, and there's long square plastic hive-like tunnels behind all of the lights, just put an appropriately-cut piece of electrical tape over the cell that's behind the TPMS light. Looks absolutely stock, you're not cutting anything, takes maybe 5 minutes if you're quick with it.

Don't bother with removing or desoldering the bulb.


Also if your gauge cluster is scratched like mine was, because of course a $10-20 piece of glass would be way too classy and expensive on a $20,000 car, use it as an opportunity to first blow any dust out of the inside part of the plastic, and use some clear plastic polish on the outside. I didn't get anywhere near removing all the scratches but it looks much better now when installed with the lights on.

Last edited by IHaveAHorse; 01-29-2020 at 08:43 AM.
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Old 01-31-2020, 04:56 PM   #31470
simianspaceman
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Question 2012 Impreza sport hatch trouble

Not sure if this is the right place to post, But:

I have a 2012 Impreza sport Limited. The trunk hatch fob release, and the exterior soft key recently stopped working. With no driver area trunk release my trunk is stuck closed. When the keys are pressed the solenoidy sound does not occur. Anyone else have this issue?
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Old 01-31-2020, 09:30 PM   #31471
IHaveAHorse
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All I would think to do is check fuses, then try to trace that wiring back. Or maybe the solenoid is dead? It would really suck to have to try to figure out how to replace the solenoid with the hatch locked shut. Almost bad enough that I'd be willing to pay the dealership to figure it out in the hopes that they fix it in 5 minutes and are decent enough to charge me little to nothing.
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Old 02-02-2020, 06:09 PM   #31472
CalTech87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Commander Keen View Post
The nut let go of the wheel easily enough, then locked up on the way out somehow, trashing the stud.
I completely missed this. Mine had exactly the same behavior. I'd assumed over torquing to have been the cause of some damage that the lug wouldn't back out.

Either way. Replaced the stud last weekend, thanks again to those that gave me the info. Picked up a tool online that helped draw the stud through. Altogether, very easy job.

Went tire shopping for set of 12 WRX rims I previously had on the car. Ended with the Continental ExtremeContact DWS 06's because they seem to be liked well enough, to say the least. What a difference! Just need the alignment.
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Old 02-03-2020, 09:39 AM   #31473
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I've put fluid film on what surfaces I could get to under my car on jack stands lifted by a fairly short cheapo freight jack, there's not much rust under there but moving to the rust belt it's a concern. I really wish I had a lift but even the cheapest ones that don't lift very high, like the quickjack or whatever the name is, are stupid expensive of course.
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Old 02-03-2020, 06:18 PM   #31474
DieselDorf
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Spray in the drain holes both ways in all the doors and back hatch at the bottom.

Also if you can pull the fender liners and spray under there real well should only need to do it once.

Also open the drivers and passenger door and spray in the cavity at the bottom towards the rear of the front wheel well where the rockers attach.

Iíve found after spraying for 3 years there are a few spots of rust at the tops of the shocks where they mount and little spots here and there. Generally it does a really good job and I canít recomend it enough.
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Old 02-03-2020, 10:39 PM   #31475
IHaveAHorse
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Too late, the fluid film was almost out and my car is on a trailer to another state already. But I'll do that next time, or maybe when I get there.
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