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Old 07-17-2018, 04:43 PM   #1
00_imprezaoutback
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Default Power gain from stock td04 to vf39

Anyone have a round about idea or estimate on the power gain going from a stock td04 to a vf39 turbo? Also what upgrades would you recommend for the vf39? Sti tmic walboro 255 bigger injectors plugs? Already have a full Cobb 3Ē turbo back exhaust system catless up pipe and down pipe. Iím new to subies not turbos but this is somewhat uncharted territory for me and itís also a new car to me that I just picked up and already want more power lol. I read some other ppls write ups on their td04 to vf39 swaps im just looking for some more or different info. Oh also the car came with a Cobb accessport v2 pretty sure ecu is stock never flashed or tuned. So a good tune thatís reasonably priced would be awesome too. Thanks guys!
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Old 07-17-2018, 06:04 PM   #2
Nettalp
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Welcome to Subies. If you want instant power now, update your V2 accessport and flash your car stage2 map.

If your looking to upgrade to bigger turbo, VF39 or VF43 is common and a fun powerband and daily driver. Supporting mods would be at least 565cc injectors, 255 fuel pump. Larger intercooler is great as it will allow more boost and help with better power.

You'll have to get a custom protune if you want the most out of your parts. It is unhealthy to run the parts without a tune so be aware. estimated numbers vary per dyno type but you could net roughly 40-50hp and 30-40 torque, again these are rough estimates.

Hope that all helps
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Old 07-17-2018, 08:02 PM   #3
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well a td04 can push 220hp. a vf39 can push 300hp if tuned aggressive depending on the fuel you have. you might be able to get 320hp but more likely 280.

the best i ever did with diy tune and road dyno was around 290hp vf48.
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Old 07-17-2018, 11:50 PM   #4
00_imprezaoutback
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Originally Posted by Nettalp View Post
Welcome to Subies. If you want instant power now, update your V2 accessport and flash your car stage2 map.

If your looking to upgrade to bigger turbo, VF39 or VF43 is common and a fun powerband and daily driver. Supporting mods would be at least 565cc injectors, 255 fuel pump. Larger intercooler is great as it will allow more boost and help with better power.

You'll have to get a custom protune if you want the most out of your parts. It is unhealthy to run the parts without a tune so be aware. estimated numbers vary per dyno type but you could net roughly 40-50hp and 30-40 torque, again these are rough estimates.

Hope that all helps
Thanks yea that does help. I totally forgot I posted this earlier as I just finished posting another thread after doing a ton of research lol so Iím scratching the idea of the vf turbos and looking at going with the td05H18g. Now would the mods be the same as you stated? I figured for injectors like 650cc and a walboro 255 pump. I really want/ed to keep the TMIC so I assume the upgrade from the Rex tmic would be the STi tmic? Also with the Cobb v2 accessport I just plug that sucker in the obdII scanner and play around lol? But that wouldnít be considered a ďtuneĒ right? Iím in central jersey and honestly donít know of any shops that have a dyno or do tunes so any help on that or atleast something to search for would be awesome!
Thanks again guys!
P.S. Iím wanting/hoping to atleast make 280-300whp.
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Old 07-18-2018, 12:40 AM   #5
CarmelValleyWRX
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well i went the rout of open source tuning, and learning to tune my self. its alot if reading, work, and some risk but its fun. or you can build your car around an off the shelf tune on the accessport. otherwise you need to find a tuner.
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Old 07-18-2018, 01:48 AM   #6
00_imprezaoutback
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Originally Posted by CarmelValleyWRX View Post
well i went the rout of open source tuning, and learning to tune my self. its alot if reading, work, and some risk but its fun. or you can build your car around an off the shelf tune on the accessport. otherwise you need to find a tuner.
So the best whp you got just using the Cobb AP was 290? If ya donít mind me asking what mods are you running exactly?
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Old 07-18-2018, 02:16 AM   #7
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I made 290 WHP on my VF39 EJ205 with the following mods:

06 STi Catless up pipe
Cobb SF intake + Air box
Titek Catted Downpipe
Avo 3" Catback
565cc injectors
Walbro 255
STi TMIC

Can't remember the torque to save my life, the tune was done at 146k miles - so the butt-pucker was in full effect with each dyno pull.

Cobb offers an OTS map for the VF39 on an 02-05 WRX. I tried it and it was meh, the AP protune was night and day.

The intention is universal so the OTS map is conservative.

Last edited by Cobrakai; 07-18-2018 at 02:21 AM.
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Old 07-18-2018, 02:25 AM   #8
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i personally would skip over the vf and go with a 16 or 18g. there is a difference, but it isnt really all that dramatic. but if you go with a 18 and if you are going to have to change injectors and all, go a little bigger and the difference will be more appearent
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Old 07-18-2018, 09:56 AM   #9
00_imprezaoutback
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i personally would skip over the vf and go with a 16 or 18g. there is a difference, but it isnt really all that dramatic. but if you go with a 18 and if you are going to have to change injectors and all, go a little bigger and the difference will be more appearent
Iím on that train now just trying to figure out which one to go with becuase itís hard not knowing the long game like if Iím just gonna hang out around 300-320 or push it past 350. I think I might play it safe for now and go with the td05H-16 I keep seeing ones that say ďbigĒ and ďsmallĒ Iím assuming itís talking about the cm2? Like small is 7cm2 and big is 8cm2. Anyone got an input on that and also what my best option is for now, I know that the motor is strong and is going to be for awhile since it was rebuilt 68k ago so down the road if I decide to build a beast Iíll cross that bridge then lol. Sooooo td05 ďsmallĒ 16g, td05 ďbigĒ 16g, or td05 18g??? I know the 16g big and small hit hard at 2800-3300/3400 and the 18g is like 3400/3500-4000? Rpms that is. Ohh last thing then Iíll post another reply with my mod list..... I want to hit atleast 16.5-18psi and thatís after all the mods are on and most likely protuned. Thanks guys!!
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Old 07-18-2018, 01:28 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 00_imprezaoutback View Post
So the best whp you got just using the Cobb AP was 290? If ya don’t mind me asking what mods are you running exactly?
my mods were

vf48
ported manifolds intake and exhaist
sti TMIC
wrx dark blue injectors (560 cc)
walbro
sti up pipe
stromung shorty DP with stock exhaust all the way back from there.

i only have 91 octane so on 93 it would probably break 300.

my new mods that need to be tuned are methanol, 9.5:1 je piston, ported head, AVCS. we will see....

Last edited by CarmelValleyWRX; 07-18-2018 at 01:34 PM.
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Old 07-18-2018, 01:38 PM   #11
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00_Impreza. Just be aware as the displacement on these cars are small, the bigger turbo you go the longer you have to wait for your power. So depending on your end goals for the car, consider what usable power band you want. Also be mindful, once you get into the 300hp range, your 5sp tranny will be something to updgrade unless you dont launch and keep your driving conservative.
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Old 07-18-2018, 02:23 PM   #12
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the vf turbo takes a bit to spool. not too long with a good tune but long enough that i ported my manifold, added a spring to the wastegate, and upgraded to a 3 port BCS to try and get it spooling. a bigger turbo could be annoying. the TD04 with a 3 port and careful tuning is like having a supercharger almost it spools so quick.
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Old 07-18-2018, 03:55 PM   #13
00_imprezaoutback
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Default My mods list/dream list lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by CarmelValleyWRX View Post
the vf turbo takes a bit to spool. not too long with a good tune but long enough that i ported my manifold, added a spring to the wastegate, and upgraded to a 3 port BCS to try and get it spooling. a bigger turbo could be annoying. the TD04 with a 3 port and careful tuning is like having a supercharger almost it spools so quick.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nettalp View Post
00_Impreza. Just be aware as the displacement on these cars are small, the bigger turbo you go the longer you have to wait for your power. So depending on your end goals for the car, consider what usable power band you want. Also be mindful, once you get into the 300hp range, your 5sp tranny will be something to updgrade unless you dont launch and keep your driving conservative.
Quote:
Originally Posted by subaru_gc8 View Post
i personally would skip over the vf and go with a 16 or 18g. there is a difference, but it isnt really all that dramatic.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobrakai View Post
I made 290 WHP on my VF39 EJ205.
Thank you all very much for your wisdom, advice, and input. I honestly used all of If to get my crazy insane list of mods lol so here it is.....


My Ď02 wrx Bugeye (Blackeye)

Mods list:

First off hereís my top two dream turbos for this build....Next weekend is my cousins bachelor party and weíre going to Mt. Airy casino in The Poconos so Iím praying I win a **** ton so I can bang this list out in one fail swoop!

DREAM TURBO #1
Blouch TD05H-18GXT 7cm^2 Turbo $1,250 😵


DREAM TURBO #2
Tomioka Racing - Tomioka TD05-18G Turbo $949.00 😧



Brand unknown, New TD05H-18G turbo $221.99

Ď02-Ď07 STi TMIC w/coolant lines and y-pipe kit $194.00

Ď02-Ď14 565cc STi Pink Denso fuel injectors (set of 4) $90.88

Walbro HP 255LPH fuel pump $107.61

Godspeed 3Ē-2 1/4Ē turbo intake inlet pipe $55.55

NGK BKR7EIX Gap 0.028Ē (plugs x4) $31.40

Cobb Tuning 3-Port boost control solenoid (BCS) $115.00

Ď02-Ď07 COBB Tuning Stage 1+ Wide Barrel Drivetrain Pckg. w/ White/Red Knob (Double adjustment Short throw shifter) $250.00

Agency Power short ram intake w/filter and bung for maf (black) $175.00

Ď02-Ď07 SMY ClusterMaker Dual Gauge Pod (52mm pods) $105.00

52mm Innovate Motorsports MTX Series Digital Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge Kit $179.10

Whiteline Front Strut Tower Brace (STi/WRX Ď02-Ď07) $179.82

Whiteline Rear Strut Tower Brace $134.82

Whiteline Front Swaybar Adjustable (22mm) $215.82

Whiteline Rear Swaybar Non-adjustable (22mm) $ 215.82

Eventually I will have her pro-tuned and dynoíd once I take care of all these ďDREAMĒ Upgrades. Lol.
The total price for everything together besides the first two turbos is $2,271.26 tax and shipping included. Lol a little bit ridiculous. But if I hit big next week at the casino itís all possible!!!

Options:
Upgraded maps for my cobb accessport v2
👆👆
Anyone have any good ones for now while Iím still running the stock td04??? 🤟🏻🤟🏻😎
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Old 07-19-2018, 02:28 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Nettalp View Post
Also be mindful, once you get into the 300hp range, your 5sp tranny will be something to updgrade unless you dont launch and keep your driving conservative.
My JDM 5MT w/4.44 FD handles 350 whp no problem. I run an OEM Exedy clutch but sometimes wish I had a clutch with a little more bite, but then I'd probably launch more often.
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Old 07-19-2018, 04:57 PM   #15
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Default Power gain from stock td04 to vf39

I'd look into the Superpro sway bars instead. My white line one rusted to s*** so fast. Check out Turn In Concepts for bushings and shifter parts. I've done almost everything from them and Kartboy. The best one (biggest PITA as well) is the shifter linkage. Makes a HUGE difference in feel and accuracy. I went back and forth about what TMIC to get. Ended up with a Process West. I personally am not sold on the OEM variations. The STi is better but still suffers from pressure loss which means you have to turn the boost up higher to get the same power. A TMIC with low pressure loss really helps with the overall feel of the car and throttle response. Also, the STi dark blue injectors are basically the same. They are newer so you can usually find them with less miles. I bought a set with a couple thousand miles for a little over $100 shipped. The front strut tower brace might help might not. I'd spend that money on an H brace instead. Ask me how I know. Cobb has the maps for the AP or you (your tuner) make a custom map. These aren't shared between people. Just go to Cobb's website and get the map you need for your set up. And stick to what they tell you. If you venture out of that get a custom tune.
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Old 07-19-2018, 05:52 PM   #16
00_imprezaoutback
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Originally Posted by snow_bound26 View Post
I'd look into the Superpro sway bars instead. My white line one rusted to s*** so fast. Check out Turn In Concepts for bushings and shifter parts. I've done almost everything from them and Kartboy. The best one (biggest PITA as well) is the shifter linkage. Makes a HUGE difference in feel and accuracy. I went back and forth about what TMIC to get. Ended up with a Process West. I personally am not sold on the OEM variations. The STi is better but still suffers from pressure loss which means you have to turn the boost up higher to get the same power. A TMIC with low pressure loss really helps with the overall feel of the car and throttle response. Also, the STi dark blue injectors are basically the same. They are newer so you can usually find them with less miles. I bought a set with a couple thousand miles for a little over $100 shipped. The front strut tower brace might help might not. I'd spend that money on an H brace instead. Ask me how I know. Cobb has the maps for the AP or you (your tuner) make a custom map. These aren't shared between people. Just go to Cobb's website and get the map you need for your set up. And stick to what they tell you. If you venture out of that get a custom tune.
So with the tunes Cobb has even thou they say v3 on them they will work with my v2? I actually emailed them earlier today to find out about the v2 exchange for the v3 for half price. Also I never asked the guy before I bought the car if he had the cables which he didnít so now I gotta get the obdII cable and the usb cable. OHHH also when you say ďstick to what they tell youĒ you mean mod wise?
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Old 07-19-2018, 06:08 PM   #17
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Yes. If you're using the Cobb OTS maps and it says use X "insert part here" use that part. It's easy to make a car run lean or rich. Rich is bad but lean is worse. If I had stayed USDM I was going to do the exchange myself. But I bought the V2 after the V3 was already out and had no problems downloading their maps. Call Cobb. I hardly ever got a response when I'd send emails. But they were always great on the phone and you can just order all the cables and whatnot during the call.
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Old 07-19-2018, 06:12 PM   #18
00_imprezaoutback
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It’s funny cause right before I read this they had emailed me back didn’t answer what I asked but gave a vague answer saying how to unmarrie the AP if it was married so I emailed them back asking exactly what I asked you lol I think I’m going to save my $325 bucks and just stick with the v2 especially if your saying you’ve had no issues.
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Old 07-19-2018, 06:18 PM   #19
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.
Now wait Iím looking at their map notes and I see they have specific turbos for certain maps yet FP doesnít make the 16g anymore so what can it be any td05 16g? Or I gotta hunt someone down who's selling a forced performance 16g? If so thatís a little ridiculous Iíd figure any 16g atleast a td05 16g would/should be appropriate. No?
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Old 07-19-2018, 06:34 PM   #20
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That's a better question for Cobb but there are differences between all the different 16g's. There's even differences between 16g's from one company like Blouch for instance.
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Old 07-19-2018, 06:36 PM   #21
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Yea I wish I had the dough for one of those bad boys. ****in $1,250 beans!!
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Old 07-20-2018, 05:49 PM   #22
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Op, dont forget that all these power numbers that people post on here will vary greatly from dyno to dyno. I was told by a wise tuner, usually on a vf series turbo, you don't break 300whp, unless tuned on the ragged edge of safety. He tunes on a mustang dyno at efi logics in CT.
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Old 07-23-2018, 12:34 PM   #23
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Op, have you checked out the Forced Performance 71HTA turbo? That one seems like it would meet your goals and is on the cheaper end of good quality turbos.
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Old 07-24-2018, 11:47 PM   #24
00_imprezaoutback
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Hey all thanks for the info you guys have given me it’s definitely going to help me make some decisions on which way to go and what to do. But since I’ve been driving the car I’ve noticed some good things, some bad things and some things I just don’t understand. Now when I got it home Friday I plugged my obd scanner in and got I think six codes which sadly I expected. They were p0335, p0102, p0500, p1507, p0113, and p0037. Now I went over all the possible reasons these codes came up and what I got to do. So I ordered a new air filter, cabin air filter, crankshaft position sensor, CPS pigtail, iac valve gasket and just for ****s and giggles I got a Haynes book for ‘02-‘07 Impreza, wrx, and STi. Anyways I noticed the intake had some loose clamps which I tightened but did t really change anything. The maf sensor wires looked like they were being pulled tight so I checked and they were fine. I haven’t taken the iacv off yet to clean cause I haven’t gotten the gasket yet. The car is practically stock besides for the exhaust which is a cobb 3” full exhaust well turbo back.
The headers and up-pipe are atock which I want to change. Any input on what kind of headers to throw on and up-pipe???
Ok so the two biggest issues I’ve noticed are.....
1. The car practically has no boost. The car has a boost gauge which is measured in MpA (mega pascal) which I honestly don’t like thankfully I still have my old boost gauge I got for my old Fahrenheit which I can’t remember what it was but I know I paid $80 for. Anyways any idea on what the issue is I’m literally getting like .03 MpA or like 5psi MAX that’s 3rd gear WOT i haven’t noticed any leaks but I’m sure their are. Also the car doesn’t have the snorkel that connects to the intake on the inner fender. Could that do anything? I think I’m going to go over every boost, vacuum, and intake hose and replace them all just cause their all original.
2. From first through fifth gear when I try to get on it it goes obviously slower then I feel it should but when I hit 5,000 rpms it’s like it’s at redline and like cuts out. It happened one time and I thought I missed fourth gear cause I was shifting but then it happened again tonight and it just really bothers me because I know it should redline at the least 6,700rpms. DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEA WHAT THE HELL THIS IS OR WHY ITS “RED LINING” AT 5k??!!? Please help I’ve never come across something like this and I refuse to take my car/cars to any shop. Lol
Thanks in advance!!
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Old 07-25-2018, 12:25 AM   #25
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Stay off the gas pedal till you have solved the issues, you probably just had a fuel cut incident because your car has issues. Air box leaks are not good, check everything, stay out of boost.
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