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Old 07-30-2017, 01:57 PM   #76
Mattkguns
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Good find, thanks. I'm planning to go junkyard diving first to see about getting one a little cheaper, we will see how that goes...

I'm planning to continue with the non conformity and fab up a custom rotated setup for a stock mount turbo. I seem to have found myself quite infatuated with the new fp blue, but I have zero desire to dick with running the turbo inlet under the manifold.

Also, again for ****s and giggles, planning to use an air to water setup so I can keep my piping run super short like a tmic, but get the airflow benefits of an fmic

Had to chuckle at "danger lump"

Edit: what do we know about fuel rail solutions for these maifolds?
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Old 07-30-2017, 03:33 PM   #77
2slofouru
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You can use the torque solution rail adapters then any rails designed for the 02-07 top feed wrx injectors. I ended up with radium rails and the ts adapters. This is assuming you are running no TGV and no avcs. My heads are modded ej205 with no avcs, I've read about clearance issues with some rails and TGV and avcs setups. There are a few threads.

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2313431



I am going to fab the lines once the new block is in the car and everything can be mocked up. My tuner recommded Injector Development injectors even though I was going to run Injector Dynamics. He says they are reliable and tune well. I'm going with 2kcc, plans include e85 capability and maybe even a larger turbo in the future. We shall see.
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Old 07-31-2017, 09:36 AM   #78
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Right on, I'll be running it on stock sti heads, so I'll have to deal with the dual avcs, but that'll be alright

Mmmm, radium stuff is sexy

What about fuel injector clinic injectors?

Last edited by Mattkguns; 07-31-2017 at 10:03 AM.
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Old 11-17-2017, 09:17 AM   #79
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2slofouru: Reversing has nothing to do with the hole alignment. They may need to be slotted. On this manifold they had to be to get the bolts in. Everything else lines up as it should.
I used 13 mm spacers. I used flathead screws on the OCV solenoid brackets. No clearance issues. May not need this mod if you use Cosworth fuel rails! I was trying to use Boomba rails at first. I ended up mounting Radium fuel dampers on the center of the upper face where is has "Cosworth" engraved. The OCV connector is tight against the fuel rail. The OCV can be rotated slightly to make more room for the connector but the bracket will need to be modified.

I welded on my own bracket to adapt the fuel rails. I cut away lots around the mounting flange of the manifold. I left a few things on the manifold as potential mounting points. Some came in very handy. I machined a plug with 1/8" NPT threads in the bottom of the plenum and put my vacuum gauge sensor there.
This is on my '08 STi track car. I could have used a wedge throttle body adapter to lower the TB. Similar to this.
I could have welded on an angled throat.
As it is the throttle body and silicone fitting clears my Kaminari reverse scoop carbon fiber hood, K081016FCC. Barely!
I have lots of pictures and details on Shutterfly and I have a journal on IWSTI.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg cosworth FR clear sol.jpg (52.8 KB, 1322 views)

Last edited by Scargod; 04-27-2018 at 08:11 AM. Reason: Changed must to "may need to be slotted". Added comment about rotating the OCV slightly.
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Old 11-17-2017, 10:23 AM   #80
no694terry
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i dint need any spacers, just a dbw to dbc adapter and used the dbw size bolts that let me not need to oval out the throttle body

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Old 11-17-2017, 10:48 AM   #81
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Stop bragging Forester guy, we don't all have that kind of room!

I have the oem/jdm gc engine cradle though, and supposedly it sits lower than the usdms. Maybe that will help with hood clearance. It clears fine without spacers, but I may need them to help with inlet clearance.


Haven't had the chance to check hole alignment from head to manifold, turned out I was missing several small seals and grommets for the timing covers and forgot to get some heater bypass tubes, mine are super rusty. Once the front components are on and secure, I will deal with the manifold and fuel components.

Last edited by 2slofouru; 11-17-2017 at 10:54 AM.
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Old 11-17-2017, 11:09 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2slofouru View Post
Stop bragging Forester guy, we don't all have that kind of room!

I have the oem/jdm gc engine cradle though, and supposedly it sits lower than the usdms. Maybe that will help with hood clearance. It clears fine without spacers, but I may need them to help with inlet clearance.


Haven't had the chance to check hole alignment from head to manifold, turned out I was missing several small seals and grommets for the timing covers and forgot to get some heater bypass tubes, mine are super rusty. Once the front components are on and secure, I will deal with the manifold and fuel components.
i even put a 2x4 on top of the manifold to check hood clearence and it still shut lol.

the head to mani bolt patterns should all be the same with the exception of pre 2000 stuff. Only issue i ever had was using my thicker head gaskets. Makes the bolts a little tight to get in
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Old 11-17-2017, 11:09 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by no694terry View Post
i dint need any spacers, just a dbw to dbc adapter and used the dbw size bolts that let me not need to oval out the throttle body
We are not talking modifying the throttle body, we are talking about slotting the outermost sets of holes (relative to the two that are close together in the middle) on the manifold where they bolt to the heads*.
Where do you get your fresh air for your turbo? With a 13mm spacer I was able to run an aluminum 3" CAI (KS Tech MegaMAF 73mm Big MAF Cold Air Intake) under the manifold.

*To be clear, (an update) when I did this first manifold I found that the outer holes needed slotting to bolt up to the heads. Now, while working on a second manifold I am finding that the alignment for these holes is much better. The need to enlarge or slot holes may vary from manifold to manifold and even vary based on machined heads and cases and gaskets used. I think using the center pair of holes for registration has worked best for me.*

Last edited by Scargod; 04-27-2018 at 08:01 AM. Reason: Corrected description of hole locations and which should be slotted
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Old 11-17-2017, 11:33 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scargod View Post
We are not talking modifying the throttle body, we are talking about slotting the inner sets of holes on the manifold where they bolt to the heads.
Where do you get your fresh air for your turbo? With a 13mm spacer I was able to run an aluminum 3" CAI (KS Tech MegaMAF 73mm Big MAF Cold Air Intake) under the manifold.
shouldnt need to oval the holes to the heads, at least i didnt on s20 heads.

that turbo has a 3.5" inlet, i bought a tube that was supposed to put filter in headlight area but it didnt fit so i just clamped filter to turbo and havent really fixed it yet, and its speed desnity so i didnt need a maf tube. The forester is no more anyway. that drvetrain is currently being put in a tube chassis build
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Old 11-17-2017, 11:42 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by no694terry View Post
shouldnt need to oval the holes to the heads, at least i didnt on s20 heads...
I hope others don't get confused by your frequent mis-speaks. You can't "oval" the holes in the heads... they are tapped holes! You do that to the holes in the flange of the N/A intake manifold (if necessary).
There's no EJ255 or EJ257 head that it is a direct bolt-on when you have AVCS and the OCV in the way of fuel rails.

Last edited by Scargod; 04-27-2018 at 07:52 AM. Reason: clarification
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Old 11-17-2017, 12:06 PM   #86
2slofouru
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scargod View Post
I hope others don't get confused by your frequent mis-speaks. You can't "oval" the holes in the heads... they are tapped holes! You do that to the holes in the flange of the N/A intake manifold.
There's no EJ 255 or 257 head that it is a direct bolt-onto.
Terry and I run ej205 heads, not that the bolt pattern is any different from the 255 or 257. Some have claimed the manifold bolted directly to the heads and some say they had to slot a couple of holes. It's no big deal either way, don't bust a vein.
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Old 11-17-2017, 12:22 PM   #87
2slofouru
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Mine currently, still have to decide if I want to remove any more. Once it's on the block with turbo and inlet it should be easier to picture what has to go.








A lot prettier in person

Last edited by 2slofouru; 11-17-2017 at 01:47 PM.
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Old 11-17-2017, 01:10 PM   #88
no694terry
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plenty pretty in the pictures too.
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Old 12-05-2017, 09:08 PM   #89
Scargod
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostinsticnd View Post
I know the 2.5L n/a manifold needs hood notching when reversed,

I"m wondering about notching the underside of a seibon hood? thoughts?
With my Kaminari hood I could have gotten by without notching it had I done everything right. This is a GR... Worst case, I could have thinned the hood a little in a small area.
I used 13mm spacers and Cosworth fuel rails to clear the AVCS solenoid. They work best of those I tried. I could have used a 10 or 11mm spacer instead of the 13.
I drilled the AVCS bracket and used a flathead screw so I didn't have a head sticking up. I did a little shaving on the throttle body ring where the silicone 90 goes. I trimmed the end of the silicone 90 at an angle so it fit snugly against the TB body.
On my next one I will cut into the plenum at the throttle body mounting plate and push it in at the bottom so as to flatten out the angle of the throttle body. It won't take much.; then I will re-weld where I have cut. I will use a thin blade on my Ingersoll Rand 529 Low Vibration Reciprocating Air Saw to do this task.
I welded in a plate with tapped holes to mount the fuel rails/injectors.

As you can see, there's a little room to spare under the fuel rail.
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Old 05-05-2022, 02:46 AM   #90
singularity88
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Reviving from the dead ik... Hopefully some useful info from what I've learned from swapping it in:

Like others have reported, I had to ever-so-slightly enlarge the bolt holes ON THE MANIFOLD to mount it to the head (1-piece mani on mine). I used a block-off plate for the EGR tube the first time I did this, but next time I will tap threads into the hole for a brass adapter / vacuum line. The 2.5i manifolds don't have as many vacuum ports as the turbo ones iirc, and have very different placement.

Mine is rear-facing. With the 19mm spacers, the stock hood closes and doesn't rub - but it's very very close (2006 WRX, unsure how other years / models will fare). The garbage ebay TMIC that was on the car before rubbed terribly anyway, so this was an improvement. I could have gotten away with thinner spacers and still clear AVCS but these were the easiest off-the shelf solution. Manifold is always nice and cool after a drive though, so I can't really complain.

There's enough room to use the OEM turbo location / turbo inlet for anyone wondering.
I was able to use a generic FMIC piping kit for the WRX/STi without issue, except I had to substitute one of the silicone couplers with a silicone 45 degree bend (or 22.5 degree? idr now) to make up the difference in length and piping offset with the further-aft placement of the throttle body. It replaced the coupler between the pipe that comes off the intercooler, and the pipe that bolts to the throttle body near where the coolant overflow tank is.

Speaking of the coolant tank... you'll definitely need to relocated it. There might be a bolt hole or 2 in that area, but they won't work. I made a bracket and mounted it to the right strut tower. Not super ideal, but it still works fine as far as I can tell. I left the other factory mounting points alone as much as I could, because I wasn't quite sure where I wanted to put the FPR and other random accessories once installed (my goal was get it in/to fit and figure out where to put the accessories like afpr, evap, and vacuum routing later).

The OEM fuel lines under the manifold are too much of a hassle to try to bend / make fit under the new manifold (you'll know what I mean if you try it)... In the end I ditched everything except for the evap/vapor line and remade the supply/return lines with ones I bent myself. Way easier in the end.

I had very little / no issue retaining the AC in mine (again, rear-facing).
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