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Old 12-13-2014, 02:59 PM   #1001
jayj713
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2006 WRX here, my car is throwing P2444, P0410, P2432 right now. Does this mean that the valves are still functioning ok and that I can drive without worries? I've driven about 30 miles since this CEL came on and I haven't noticed anything different.

P0410 - Secondary air injection system malfunction
P2432 - Secondary Air Injection System Air Flow Pressure Sensor Circuit Low
P2444 - Secondary Air Pump Stuck On
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Old 12-13-2014, 03:35 PM   #1002
1 Lucky Texan
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seems more like a sensor or electrical problem.

Is the pump actually running? if so, maybe a bad relay or other issue - if not, I'd be tempted to clear the codes and see if/what comes back.
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Old 12-13-2014, 04:38 PM   #1003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 Lucky Texan View Post
seems more like a sensor or electrical problem.

Is the pump actually running? if so, maybe a bad relay or other issue - if not, I'd be tempted to clear the codes and see if/what comes back.
Hmmm, I reset my ECU with my AP and my car kind of had a hard time starting, turned over a few times before it finally came alive and then it stalled once while I was backing out. Battery is probably about 15-20k miles old. I drove it around for about 10 miles and no CEL came on and no other problems.

Not sure if the pump is actually running, does it run when the car is warm? I put my hand on the air pump before I reset the ECU and it was vibrating a tiny bit but I can't tell if it's because the car is on or what, I did get a tiny static shock after I took off my hand though.
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Old 12-13-2014, 05:00 PM   #1004
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under normal conditions, the pump only runs for, 20-40 seconds after a stone-cold start so, you may have a legit problem - but maybe NOT stuck valves.

?

hope someone else chimes in.
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Old 12-13-2014, 05:32 PM   #1005
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Sorry, I worded it kind of confusingly. My car was already warm when I went to check if the pump was running because I had just come back from eating lunch. I'll check again tomorrow morning. I know for sure when I usually cold start my car I hear a loud blowing noise, almost like a hair dryer, it also happens when I'm idling sometimes though.
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Old 12-15-2014, 08:43 PM   #1006
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Anyone know where to source these blocking plates?
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Old 12-15-2014, 08:47 PM   #1007
EvileyeZ88
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Google knows....let me just get out my spoon to feed you some info.......

Kstech sells em, iag sells em.

Just about every aftermarket subaru parts supplier sells them...

Brought to you in part by: My Thumbs
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Old 01-06-2015, 12:15 PM   #1008
samj
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Question 06 wrx - P0410 and P2444

Just got done reading through this thread like many others because my 06wrx is experiencing air pump woes like many others.

My question to the main contributors to this thread (thank you!!): Big-E, EvilEyeZ88 and others: My main issue seems to be that the air pump is stuck on (P2444). What would cause that? Is it related to the valves being stuck open or closed, or could it be electrical?

I first had the check-engine light come on a few weeks ago. Ignition off and the air pump was still running. Code was P2444. Unplugged the pump harness, cleared the code and everything was okay for a few days.

A week later, I had the same issue (pump would not turn off and CEL). I unplugged the harness again and re-connected it at a later time and it was functioning as expected again (running for ~30 secs and then off) - cleared same P2444 code.

Same thing a week later but this time: air pump is permanently on, even after several hours! I unplugged the harness and got code P0410 and no other codes. I have it unplugged at the moment.

Talking to a friend about helping me with the block-off plates but I am beginning to wonder if this is an electrical issue since I am not getting any other codes. I am fairly certain the P0410 code is thrown because I've left the air pump unplugged.

What could be causing the air pump to stay on past the ~30 seconds during cold start?
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Old 01-08-2015, 03:08 PM   #1009
wrx_racer
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I placed an order for Spectra Premium EMV1000 and EMV1001 on Amazon. I had spoken to their techs a few months ago and they seem knowledgeable about the issue with the original parts. I've bought many parts from Spectra in the past and they have my trust.
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Old 01-10-2015, 05:55 PM   #1010
Big-E
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samj View Post
Just got done reading through this thread like many others because my 06wrx is experiencing air pump woes like many others.

My question to the main contributors to this thread (thank you!!): Big-E, EvilEyeZ88 and others: My main issue seems to be that the air pump is stuck on (P2444). What would cause that? Is it related to the valves being stuck open or closed, or could it be electrical?

I first had the check-engine light come on a few weeks ago. Ignition off and the air pump was still running. Code was P2444. Unplugged the pump harness, cleared the code and everything was okay for a few days.

A week later, I had the same issue (pump would not turn off and CEL). I unplugged the harness again and re-connected it at a later time and it was functioning as expected again (running for ~30 secs and then off) - cleared same P2444 code.

Same thing a week later but this time: air pump is permanently on, even after several hours! I unplugged the harness and got code P0410 and no other codes. I have it unplugged at the moment.

Talking to a friend about helping me with the block-off plates but I am beginning to wonder if this is an electrical issue since I am not getting any other codes. I am fairly certain the P0410 code is thrown because I've left the air pump unplugged.

What could be causing the air pump to stay on past the ~30 seconds during cold start?
P2444 relates to the secondary air-pump staying on.

From what I read from the FSM, the secondary air-pump is affected by the atmospheric pressure sensor and that there is no fail-safe in place should the pump be activated beyond the normal or expected use-cycle. So it would appear that this is an electrical / electronic issue.

If you do go the delete-route and you have to maintain the hardware for visual emissions inspections, then I would suggest leaving all hardware in place and plugged-in, but remove the relays and fuses for the system, and modify each air-feed tube by cutting off the mating-heads where they are connected to the engine cylinder-heads, and of course have a tuner (or if you can) shut-off these circuits and set the readiness monitor to OK.

Last edited by Big-E; 01-10-2015 at 06:26 PM. Reason: additional content
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Old 01-26-2015, 04:51 PM   #1011
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My 2008 STi got the P1410 code last week and after resetting it, I got the P2440 code this week.

I'm debating whether to just go ahead and get the block off plates or to buy the Spectra valves and replace them. The install looks like a PITA either way.

Are the Spectra valves any better design than the Subaru part, or is the "internal rubber" all the same crap?

I don't know if I want to call the dealer since I've been out of the 5/60k warranty for a year, even though my mileage is a tick under 60k.
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Old 01-27-2015, 07:01 PM   #1012
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So, I've made the decision to order two of the Subaru block off plates, p/n 14754AA050 ($3.70/ea), and enlarge the holes on the driver's side. I thought about buying the 11084AA020 plate for the passenger side, but it was going to cost ~$8, so I think two of the first one will work fine. I don't have a drill press, so we'll see how tough that metal is with my handheld drill and Dremel tool. I plan on leaving all of the air pump components installed, just disabled.

I plan on sandwiching them between the heads and metal tubes, without removing anything from the engine bay. I don't know if I will be successful on the passenger side, but I think there is enough space to get some wrenches and sockets, so I'm going to attempt it. Then I figure I can sandwich it between the gasket and metal tube and seal it off.

I didn't order new gaskets, so I'm hoping I can reuse the ones that are on it. The mating surface at the head will be the same, so hopefully the seal will be good to the block off plate.

Then, I plan to pull the associated fuses for the air pump and then disable the codes on my personal OTS map in AccessTuner Race.

I'm hoping that my valves unstick long enough that I can drive the car this weekend, but we'll see.
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Old 01-28-2015, 10:43 AM   #1013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikepoet View Post
and enlarge the holes on the driver's side. I thought about buying the 11084AA020 plate for the passenger side, but it was going to cost ~$8, so I think two of the first one will work fine. I don't have a drill press, so we'll see how tough that metal is with my handheld drill and Dremel tool. .
try to clamp/secure the part, put some oil on the bit and part or squirt a coupla times with WD-40 while drilling.
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Old 02-27-2015, 08:08 PM   #1014
subrahru
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Okay so i got a couple codes for the secondary air pump a few months ago and i have a 2007 wrx with 56,000 miles on it. I wanted to go the block off plate route but my tuner wouldn't delete the codes because its apparently illegal in nys. I have the valve stuck open and air pump stock on codes so just pullng a fuse wasn't an option for me. I finally got a little money saved and decided to get my car checked out and quoted for parts and labor at the nearest dealership. It ended up being over $1600 for parts and labor...which i figured it was going to be after reading some of these threads for so long. What i also came across on those threads were people talking about calling SOA and showing their concern with their faulty product and the environment. Which then lead to a good will reimbursement of up to 50% in some cases(not all). Now some of these threads date back to 2010-1012....well actually most of them. So with my car being 8 years old and 5 years out of the "3 year 50,000 mile" warranty(lol) i didn't think it was worth the time but i decided to try anyway. Well, i was actually pretty angry when i called so i think i did a good job because the decided to send me a 50% reimbursement check. Even though it was still $800 it's definitely better than being $1600. Crazy how after all this time that actually worked. So thankful!!
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Old 03-12-2015, 10:25 AM   #1015
bikepoet
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So, I ended up installing blocking plates between the air valves and the air tubes:

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/diy-mods...air-tubes.html

Cost me 10 bucks, 6 hours, and 2 nuts.
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Old 03-19-2015, 03:52 PM   #1016
Jason_The_Angry
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First,

Thanks to all who worked this out before, along with the right CEL codes. It saved me some frustration as I worked on my 2007 WRX last weekend. A few things:

1. I didn't remove the up pipe.... but I wish I had. Recommend planning ahead and buying gaskets. I pulled most of the passenger side wiring away to allow easier access to the passenger side head. It still sucked.

2. Penetrating oil on any of the exhaust component nuts/bolts a day ahead is recommended. I broke off a few around the turbo heat shield. I realized afterward that I didn't need to remove them anyway

3. Use a little high-temp RTV to keep the plates, gaskets, and bolts in one place while you try to bolt everything to the head.

4. One of those "grabber tools" with the extendable claws is nice to have to pull random tools and parts out from all the places you will drop them.

5. I made a tool to assist the passenger side install with a 1/4" drive 10mm socket, a piece of scrap steel, a MIG welder, and an angle grinder. 4.5" long, about 1" tall.




6. I could not find a way to install the passenger side plate without removing the secondary air tube. Two sawzall cuts and one dremel. Sawzall on top beside the valve, one about 10 inches away with dremel. The final one was made by pulling the remaining tubing as far to the passenger side as I could, then using the sawzall again through the opening I created by removing the wiring. I had to remove the throttle body for the top cuts.

7. If you have a means to check if the barometric pressure sensor in the valve is working, do it. Mine was reading too low (about 9.7 psi). A replacement sensor from a valve I bought on ebay restored it to proper operation. I'm not sure, but the failed sensor may have caused my engine to schedule boost in a strange way and limited the max boost.




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Old 04-02-2015, 04:28 PM   #1017
JokerGT
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Ok, after reading this entire thread I can still not determine if the 06 WRX has a atmospheric pressure sensor?

My tuner told me to keep the sensor installed if I remove the air pump and install block off plates.

Where can I find the sensor IF the car indeed has one?
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Old 04-02-2015, 10:34 PM   #1018
HinshawWRX
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You didn't read very well, and bumped several threads uselessly to get an answer.

No, the 2006 does NOT have the atmospheric sensor in the valve. Now move on.
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Old 05-01-2015, 06:32 PM   #1019
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Hey everyone! New to the forum, but my 2008 STI just threw a P2440 and it isn't going away. I have AP, so I've reset it a few times. Don't feel comfortable getting in there and doing it myself. Anyone have suggestions of a good place to take my baby to in order to get these blocking plates installed? PM if more appropriate. Thank you for your sage advice!
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Old 05-25-2015, 09:03 PM   #1020
BlueFozzie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JokerGT View Post
Ok, after reading this entire thread I can still not determine if the 06 WRX has a atmospheric pressure sensor?

My tuner told me to keep the sensor installed if I remove the air pump and install block off plates.

Where can I find the sensor IF the car indeed has one?
Yes, your '06 has baro. It is NOT located on top of a valve as it is in the '07's. It will not be effected by a Air Pump Del. If you have an AP, you can check its reading on the gauge setup.


This thread could use a good padlock.
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Old 05-26-2015, 12:58 AM   #1021
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I recently detached the air injector pipes form the heads and blocked both sides off. I didn't remove the system and left it in place. BARO sensor still connect, I had my tuner create a map with the CEL delete to clear my dash. It's been a month since I deleted the CEL and car is still running and performing like a champion.
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Old 05-26-2015, 01:19 AM   #1022
Javier668
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Anyone want sell a low priced airpump for wrx 2006?
I need the pump for parts,if dont work isnt problem.

Regards!
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Old 05-29-2015, 05:01 AM   #1023
TrueSilver
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Another successful air pump delete completed tonight. Took me 6 hours and I would always run into some sort of small issue. I was lazy and did not want to take off the intake manifold and cut the tubing. Defiantly had water in there.... A lot! I also installed a new dp while I was at it so some time was dedicated to make it fit correctly.
Also added an wide band sensor. So more then just removing the air pump in the 6 hour window.

This thread helped me though it, thanks for the information everyone!

Never again will I do this...
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Old 05-31-2015, 11:03 AM   #1024
Dill-Ag13
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Man... I got these codes. Time for me to dive into a delete that doesn't sound very fun.

Someone needs to make a video!
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Old 05-31-2015, 11:41 AM   #1025
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I mean it's really not that hard to do it correctly if you remove everything in the way its just really time consuming, tmic, intake manifold and uppipe, and you don't necessarily have to remove the IM if you don't mind one of the valves still being under it.

What makes this delete so hard to do is trying to shortcut it, no one can deny the passenger side plate is by far the most annoying to get to because of the up pipe, the next most annoying part is getting the pipe going to the passenger side plate off of the motor.

Everything about the drivers side is too easy.

Feel free to pm me with any questions.
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