Keyless Entry Solution for $50.00 !!! 93-01 cars

Team Scream · 05-27-2012, 12:49 PM

OK this is a solid DIY for how to install a Viper 211HV keyless entry system on your RS, L, OBS or any Suby that has automatic door locks.

I am writing this up because it seems that nobody else has, and when I needed the info, I couldn't find it, so I decided to try and help anyone else who wants a fantastic solution.

The Viper 211HV can also be used if you are sick of your old outdated remotes and want something a little more updated and smaller than the OEM square fobs. For $50.00 brand new, you get the whole system which includes 2 remotes.

The installation instructions included with the 211HV are pure ****, so I made illustrated pictures for even the lamest among you to follow along.
I am pretty lame sometimes, and I appreciate pictures, so I hope you do too.

Anyway, here we go:

Here is the box:

Here is what is in the box:

Here is the wiring diagram that comes in the box. I have illustrated it and listed EVERY wire that you need connect to make EVERYTHING work. This means BOTh doors lock and unlock, the corner lights flash when you lock and unlock the car, the dome light comes on when you unlock the car and turns off after 1 minute or when you lock the car, AND if you hit the lock button twice, the horn will chirp to audibly confirm you have locked the car. It is beetchen and it only cost $39.00 (Amazon) or $50.00 (eBay).

Here is the connector under the dash you need to locate. It is the same connector used by the factory (optional) keyless entry unit. It should be easy to find, and EVERY connection except GROUND, POWER and HORN will be made at this connector.

This next picture shows you ALL 4 wires that need to be connected to the corresponding wires from the Viper harness for the LOCKING portion of the install.

This next picture shows you BOTH wires that need to be hooked up to activate the CORNER lights and the DOME light.

This next picture shows the wire that you need to tap for the HORN chirp on lock, or HORN flashing when the panic button it pressed. This (BLACK) 4 pin connector is part of the multi wire harness series of feeds that come from the clock spring and turn signal switch area. You can tap on either side of this connector. I tapped the firewall side so that I could remove the clock spring or turn signal switch without having to break this connection. This is the ONLY connection I made using a "vampire" tap. I generally do not use these for anything, but since this is a short ground signal and the connector is a bit buried under the dash it was the easiest thing for me to do. Normally, I would use solid crimps with heat shrink like I did on every other connection I made during this install.

And here is what one of the remotes looks like. I happen to like them.
I tested this myself today and EVERYTHING works as indicated. ALL OF IT WORKS! So if you can connect the dots, and follow along with my pretty pictures, you can have keyless entry and some other nice features and also have an additional channel to use for an additional feature.

I plan to try and get a trunk pop solenoid of some kind and wire that in so that I can pop the trunk with the remote using the "Aux" button on the remote. I will edit this thread with those instructions as soon as I work that out.

Finally, this Viper also has a few more features that some will love.

First: It CAN send a widow signal for 20 seconds to automatically roll up the windows when you lock the doors !!!
Second: It CAN send an automatic door LOCK signal when the ignition is powered on !!!!
Third: It CAN send an automatic door UN-LOCK signal when the ignition is powered off !!!!

All three of those features require you to hook up an additional wire to a keyed power source which I have NOT done on this installation. I may go back and do that sometime, but for now, I really don't care for the additional features. All 3 of these additional features are OFF by default and need to be programmed in.

Anyway, I hope someone gets some use out of this... I am really happy to have keyless entry with NEW remotes in my widebody project and all for $50.00 shipped! Enjoy... !

* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

motohippy · 05-29-2012, 02:34 PM

Did you cut the factory connector off for this and splice the wires, or did you turn up the appropriate connector somewhere. . .
Nice job either way, I've been hunting for a (cheap) way to get a keyless entry for a while now. . .and the factory boxes are damn near impossible to find with a harness still attached. . .

Gr3en · 05-29-2012, 03:13 PM

Subscribed. Thanks for the efforts! Hope to see the horn working soon.

Team Scream · 05-30-2012, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by motohippy

Did you cut the factory connector off for this and splice the wires, or did you turn up the appropriate connector somewhere. . .
Nice job either way, I've been hunting for a (cheap) way to get a keyless entry for a while now. . .and the factory boxes are damn near impossible to find with a harness still attached. . .

Yes, I cut the factory harness from mine. I had a complete set up with no remotes and I was not about to pay $40.00 each for used remotes.

The factory set up is huge, bulky and completely antiquated. It takes up WAY more room under the dash than necessary. I wanted to get that crap out of there at all costs.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gr3en

Subscribed. Thanks for the efforts! Hope to see the horn working soon.

Thanks man. I have the horn figured out I think. I just need to get my horn mounted today so I can try it out.

Jaxx · 06-03-2012, 10:53 AM

just curious what you used for constant hot and ground

also they are 39 shipped on amazon ..
i need to crawl under the 93 dash and see if the connector is there .. 93s are a bit different

Team Scream · 06-04-2012, 01:52 PM

UPDATED DIY TO COVER HORN HOOK-UP

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaxx

just curious what you used for constant hot and ground

also they are 39 shipped on amazon ..
i need to crawl under the 93 dash and see if the connector is there .. 93s are a bit different

I have a separate power distribution scheme on my car for accessories that comes direct from the battery. For ground, I always make up a ring terminal with 4 ground wire (pigtails) crimped and soldered that I connect to the dash beam with one of the 6mm bolts that holds the dash beam to the chassis. This gives me 4 ground points that I can use whenever I need one. I just connected to one of those for the Viper install.

416Dvst8-R · 06-13-2012, 12:58 PM

props to you

wordsarize · 06-13-2012, 01:19 PM

I attempted to do this other day n for the life of me cannot find that damned white plug to tap into......

RallyBlue · 07-19-2012, 05:58 PM

Just finished this install.
My car is an 01 OBS and had the factory installed keyless entry/alarm system. It was doing some weird annoying things like cycling the locks and alarm at random times while driving or sitting with the engine on, it even locked me out of the car while I jumped out to open the garage door in the rain even.
I did my install a little different. Instead of cutting up the factory harness I used the connector that goes form the stock alarm box to the chassis harness. Doing it this way I was able to solder the wires outside the car making for an easier wiring job. The colors of the wires are different than in the guide but it was easy to match up the wires.
I also used the 12v constant and one ground from the factory harness connection, only needing to use two chassis ground points.
All in all this looks to be a solid and cheap upgrade from the old factory box.

akfmx · 01-26-2013, 10:27 PM

For anyone else who was wondering, the white/red wire on the keyless entry connector under the dash is the 12v constant that goes to the back of the fuse box. Atleast that is the color for my 2000 forester and I imagine imprezas of the same year range. Then again, it is pretty simple to hook a tester up and figure it out.

I know, I know, I bumped an old thread. But hopefully this makes it easier for people wondering where to tap into for the 12v constant. They can tap into the same plug! And I haven't verified it yet, but I *think* that the black wire is ground (based on the wiring diagram I found that indicated the 12v as the white/red wire).

Jake_ak_cent · 02-08-2013, 12:45 AM

Subscribed. Thanks for the write up I've been lookin into this.

Team Scream · 03-19-2013, 01:40 PM

No problem guys, this was an easy project. A little frustrating at first, but this much time later the install is still flawless and works perfectly...

chanrobi · 02-24-2018, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Team Scream

OK this is a solid DIY for how to install a Viper 211HV keyless entry system on your RS, L, OBS or any Suby that has automatic door locks.

I am writing this up because it seems that nobody else has, and when I needed the info, I couldn't find it, so I decided to try and help anyone else who wants a fantastic solution.

The Viper 211HV can also be used if you are sick of your old outdated remotes and want something a little more updated and smaller than the OEM square fobs. For $50.00 brand new, you get the whole system which includes 2 remotes.

Anyway, I hope someone gets some use out of this... I am really happy to have keyless entry with NEW remotes in my widebody project and all for $50.00 shipped! Enjoy... !

Thank you SO MUCH for writing this up.

I've got a 97 outback with a missing keyless entry system, spent hours sifting through forum posts and what not regarding the oem system.

Tried to look for aftermarket systems, and not knowing cars had no idea what to buy/get.

Will be picking this up very soon and upgrading my car!!

chanrobi · 03-23-2018, 01:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wordsarize

I attempted to do this other day n for the life of me cannot find that damned white plug to tap into......

I'm going to do a more complete write up -- but to answer this question. It means you never had the factory keyless installed.

Same as me.

It took me a while to figure out exactly how to install it, will be posting instructions in a separate thread which ill link back here.

Took me a while of gathering information to figure it out but setting it up was really easy. Took 1.5 hours to install the basic functions.

And this is coming from ZERO knowledge of automotovie wiring or installing any keyless units, NOTHING.

Super psyched, this thread gave me the motivation to do it.

Thanks op!

Edit: Couple notes off the bat - this Viper 211HV, is the EXACT same as the Avital 2101L model (which I bought and used instead), i believe this unit is marketed under different names/brands

Keyless entry 1997 subaru outback aftermarket - YouTube

Keyless entry 1997 subaru outback aftermarket - YouTube

Rsluv · 11-13-2018, 09:10 PM

Great write up.....finished everything in less than a hour.....but on any one who has this does the driver door lock and unlock too I have had 3 Subarus and only one had the OEM key fob ....I just dont remember if the driver door would lock and unlock with the key fob,because after the installation the driver door wont lock with the alarm....but that's how it Is with the door lock switch too

nihaody · 01-09-2021, 10:55 PM

I'm trying to emulate this on my 1997 Impreza OBS which as another poster noted doesn't have the harness for the optional keyless entry module.

Is this possible? My worry is that the driver-side door may not even actually have an actuator (why would it because it's the trigger).

05-27-2012, 12:49 PM	#1
Team Scream Scooby Specialist Member#: 121532 Join Date: Jul 2006 Chapter/Region: SCIC Vehicle: 06 FXSTi, 06 FXTAT 06 STi Wide Body Wagon	OK this is a solid DIY for how to install a Viper 211HV keyless entry system on your RS, L, OBS or any Suby that has automatic door locks. I am writing this up because it seems that nobody else has, and when I needed the info, I couldn't find it, so I decided to try and help anyone else who wants a fantastic solution. The Viper 211HV can also be used if you are sick of your old outdated remotes and want something a little more updated and smaller than the OEM square fobs. For $50.00 brand new, you get the whole system which includes 2 remotes. The installation instructions included with the 211HV are pure ***, so I made illustrated pictures for even the lamest among you to follow along. I am pretty lame sometimes, and I appreciate pictures, so I hope you do too. Anyway, here we go: Here is the box: Here is what is in the box: Here is the wiring diagram that comes in the box. I have illustrated it and listed EVERY wire that you need connect to make EVERYTHING work. This means BOTh doors lock and unlock, the corner lights flash when you lock and unlock the car, the dome light comes on when you unlock the car and turns off after 1 minute or when you lock the car, AND if you hit the lock button twice, the horn will chirp to audibly confirm you have locked the car. It is beetchen and it only cost $39.00 (Amazon) or $50.00 (eBay). Here is the connector under the dash you need to locate. It is the same connector used by the factory (optional) keyless entry unit. It should be easy to find, and EVERY connection except GROUND, POWER and HORN will be made at this connector. This next picture shows you ALL 4 wires that need to be connected to the corresponding wires from the Viper harness for the LOCKING portion of the install. This next picture shows you BOTH wires that need to be hooked up to activate the CORNER lights and the DOME light. This next picture shows the wire that you need to tap for the HORN chirp on lock, or HORN flashing when the panic button it pressed. This (BLACK) 4 pin connector is part of the multi wire harness series of feeds that come from the clock spring and turn signal switch area. You can tap on either side of this connector. I tapped the firewall side so that I could remove the clock spring or turn signal switch without having to break this connection. This is the ONLY connection I made using a "vampire" tap. I generally do not use these for anything, but since this is a short ground signal and the connector is a bit buried under the dash it was the easiest thing for me to do. Normally, I would use solid crimps with heat shrink like I did on every other connection I made during this install. And here is what one of the remotes looks like. I happen to like them. I tested this myself today and EVERYTHING works as indicated. ALL OF IT WORKS! So if you can connect the dots, and follow along with my pretty pictures, you can have keyless entry and some other nice features and also have an additional channel to use for an additional feature. I plan to try and get a trunk pop solenoid of some kind and wire that in so that I can pop the trunk with the remote using the "Aux" button on the remote. I will edit this thread with those instructions as soon as I work that out. Finally, this Viper also has a few more features that some will love. First: It CAN send a widow signal for 20 seconds to automatically roll up the windows when you lock the doors !!! Second: It CAN send an automatic door LOCK signal when the ignition is powered on !!!! Third: It CAN send an automatic door UN-LOCK signal when the ignition is powered off !!!! All three of those features require you to hook up an additional wire to a keyed power source which I have NOT done on this installation. I may go back and do that sometime, but for now, I really don't care for the additional features. All 3 of these additional features are OFF by default and need to be programmed in. Anyway, I hope someone gets some use out of this... I am really happy to have keyless entry with NEW remotes in my widebody project and all for $50.00 shipped! Enjoy... ! Registered users of the site do not see these ads. Last edited by Team Scream; 06-04-2012 at 04:35 PM.

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05-29-2012, 02:34 PM	#2
motohippy Scooby Newbie Member#: 225882 Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Central NJ Vehicle: 2000 OBS '88 BMW K75S	Did you cut the factory connector off for this and splice the wires, or did you turn up the appropriate connector somewhere. . . Nice job either way, I've been hunting for a (cheap) way to get a keyless entry for a while now. . .and the factory boxes are damn near impossible to find with a harness still attached. . .

05-29-2012, 03:13 PM	#3
Gr3en Scooby Specialist Member#: 160991 Join Date: Oct 2007 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Gorillaoffroadcompany.com Vehicle: 05 Corn Burner Dirt Silver?	Subscribed. Thanks for the efforts! Hope to see the horn working soon.

06-03-2012, 10:53 AM	#5
Jaxx Scooby Guru Member#: 177 Join Date: Aug 1999 Chapter/Region: NWIC Location: Austin, Texas, USA Vehicle: The 93 W/EJ20K-sold Subaru-less :(	just curious what you used for constant hot and ground also they are 39 shipped on amazon .. i need to crawl under the 93 dash and see if the connector is there .. 93s are a bit different

06-13-2012, 12:58 PM	#7
416Dvst8-R Scooby Newbie Member#: 279360 Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Toronto, ON Canada Vehicle: 2009 Forester X silver	props to you

06-13-2012, 01:19 PM	#8
wordsarize Scooby Specialist Member#: 214270 Join Date: Jun 2009 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: central jersey Vehicle: 2014 FXT Touring Satin White Pearl	I attempted to do this other day n for the life of me cannot find that damned white plug to tap into......

07-19-2012, 05:58 PM	#9
RallyBlue Scooby Newbie Member#: 69323 Join Date: Aug 2004 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Indiana, near Cincy Vehicle: 2004 WRX 82 BRAT	Just finished this install. My car is an 01 OBS and had the factory installed keyless entry/alarm system. It was doing some weird annoying things like cycling the locks and alarm at random times while driving or sitting with the engine on, it even locked me out of the car while I jumped out to open the garage door in the rain even. I did my install a little different. Instead of cutting up the factory harness I used the connector that goes form the stock alarm box to the chassis harness. Doing it this way I was able to solder the wires outside the car making for an easier wiring job. The colors of the wires are different than in the guide but it was easy to match up the wires. I also used the 12v constant and one ground from the factory harness connection, only needing to use two chassis ground points. All in all this looks to be a solid and cheap upgrade from the old factory box.

01-26-2013, 10:27 PM	#10
akfmx Scooby Specialist Member#: 226059 Join Date: Oct 2009 Chapter/Region: AKIC Location: AK Vehicle: Icy Silver Legacy	For anyone else who was wondering, the white/red wire on the keyless entry connector under the dash is the 12v constant that goes to the back of the fuse box. Atleast that is the color for my 2000 forester and I imagine imprezas of the same year range. Then again, it is pretty simple to hook a tester up and figure it out. I know, I know, I bumped an old thread. But hopefully this makes it easier for people wondering where to tap into for the 12v constant. They can tap into the same plug! And I haven't verified it yet, but I think that the black wire is ground (based on the wiring diagram I found that indicated the 12v as the white/red wire).

02-08-2013, 12:45 AM	#11
Jake_ak_cent Scooby Newbie Member#: 330383 Join Date: Aug 2012	Subscribed. Thanks for the write up I've been lookin into this.

03-19-2013, 01:40 PM	#12
Team Scream Scooby Specialist Member#: 121532 Join Date: Jul 2006 Chapter/Region: SCIC Vehicle: 06 FXSTi, 06 FXTAT 06 STi Wide Body Wagon	No problem guys, this was an easy project. A little frustrating at first, but this much time later the install is still flawless and works perfectly...

11-13-2018, 09:10 PM	#15
Rsluv Scooby Newbie Member#: 426536 Join Date: Jul 2015	Great write up.....finished everything in less than a hour.....but on any one who has this does the driver door lock and unlock too I have had 3 Subarus and only one had the OEM key fob ....I just dont remember if the driver door would lock and unlock with the key fob,because after the installation the driver door wont lock with the alarm....but that's how it Is with the door lock switch too

01-09-2021, 10:55 PM	#16
nihaody Scooby Newbie Member#: 521567 Join Date: Jan 2021 Chapter/Region: NWIC Vehicle: 1997 Impreza OBS Acadia Green	I'm trying to emulate this on my 1997 Impreza OBS which as another poster noted doesn't have the harness for the optional keyless entry module. Is this possible? My worry is that the driver-side door may not even actually have an actuator (why would it because it's the trigger).