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Old 03-25-2015, 03:59 PM   #26
evil girl
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This is fantastic. I'll be fixing mine this weekend.
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Old 06-09-2015, 05:15 PM   #27
Skeeler
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I am missing the connector that goes to the vent valve solenoid, labeled 'charcoal can plug.'

Is there a link available to purchase the appropriate electrical connector on the web, so I can order one and splice it into the bare wires?

I have been dealing with the CEL for four years and my mpg has been 22 instead of 28.
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Old 06-14-2015, 03:03 PM   #28
Preludicrous
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Holy hell I cannot get this connector to come off. The very first plug mentioned. I have wiggledit every which way, tried pinching the blue retainer clips with no luck. A ton of sand fell out though and just for good measure I hit it with some contact cleaner until I figure this out. I've got two months until my emissions test but would rather fix it now.

EDIT: OMG I'm an idiot...twice. First off I was at the wrong end of the canister, second the harness was completely unplugged. Pretty sure I unhooked it when I installed my sway bar last spring and I bet I didn't clip it all the way back on. Reset the ECU and boom code gone.

Last edited by Preludicrous; 06-14-2015 at 03:29 PM.
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Old 07-02-2015, 03:16 AM   #29
08SubbySniper
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I have been dealing with this issue for about 4 days now and I finally got under the car to check the connectors and I hadon't 2 hoses unplugged on the charcoal box, so I zip tied the hoses back and I need to reset the ecu hopefully the code goes away! All my connectors seemed fine I'm in California so not much rust to worry about.
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Old 09-20-2015, 05:03 PM   #30
okt
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I found a replacement for this connector, kinda of pricey but you can get it and it works just fine. This piece works just fine:
ACDelco PT2048 GM Original Equipment Natural Colored Multi-Purpose Pigtail

and I purchased it on amazon.com. It's a GM piece but it's the same connection, works fine for me.
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Old 02-28-2016, 08:18 PM   #31
wrexington
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having the "can only fill my tank 0.2-0.3 gallons at a time" issue and p1400 CEL. great to find this thread. I'll be getting under my car next weekend to check things out. hoping its just a wiring/connection issue so I don't have to loosen any bolts that haven't moved a budge in 13 years.
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Old 05-24-2016, 11:41 PM   #32
rngrdvg
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My wires corroded off right at the connector, too.

I found a source for a receptacle kit - sumitomo HX 040. Company name is corsa-technic. Kit includes the receptacle, two contacts ands two seals. Under four bucks. Also ordered the insert/removal tool for 10 bucks.

I found instructions on how to assemble/disassemble. Google "J-38125-620B Terminal Repair Booklet" to find the PDF.

So now I have a new pigtail ready to splice onto the old wires.
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Old 08-19-2016, 09:57 PM   #33
kirkb
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How does this just randomly happen on it is own? Both wires cut clean. They are protected way up in sort of an alcove, and above the axle, suspension and sway bar. Stuff just can't fly up there and cut it, especially without leaving any other damage or scratches while doing so.

Last edited by kirkb; 08-19-2016 at 10:46 PM.
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Old 08-19-2016, 10:30 PM   #34
kirkb
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I'm getting the P0447 Evaporative Emissions DTC by the way. This thread lead me right to the problem. Very helpful.
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Old 09-10-2016, 12:18 AM   #35
wrx1392
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ive been getting the p0442 code ...small leak in the evap system .....ck'd what I could any body got any ideas comes on about every 100 miles or so .
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Old 03-26-2017, 06:44 PM   #36
dpalm
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Default 2004 WRX P0447 Code: How to Fix Connector

Great explanation; it helped me find the cause of the P0447 CEL code immediately.

As with so many other posts on this subject, one of the two wires to the fuel system drain valve (R69 at WI-191 in the Service Manual wiring diagram) had corroded and broken off at the connector. It is the same connector as shown in NJReppin's February 27, 2014 Post:



Is it possible to fix this? Can the female metal connector be removed from the plastic housing and replaced? If so, how?

This connector is for a 2004 WRX, which is different from those shown in the other posts for the later model.

The majority of posts for the P0447 code result from this problem, caused by debris and water from the rear wheel splashing up, leading to corrosion and this connector's failure. Is there no Subaru fix?

Many thanks.

Duncan

Last edited by dpalm; 03-26-2017 at 07:09 PM.
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Old 09-05-2017, 01:44 PM   #37
damselfly
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I know this is a pretty old thread, but I'm hoping that the OP (or anyone, if you have relevant pics) can update their images since Photobucket decided to change their TOS regarding third party hosting.

I have this exact issue on my '01 Legacy GT wagon, and I would love to see the pictures and try to figure it out.
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Old 01-13-2021, 01:41 AM   #38
TXwrxWagon
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bringing it back again for newer owners.

Connectors for everything under the hood (top to bottom, engine, lights, everything). out back (lights, gas tank, Evap, even the trailer wiring connector)

One stop shop iwireservices.com Brian and the bunch there are AWESOME and pretty much focus on Subaru only.

over the knocking on 14 years and 300k+ miles on my 2004 WRX Sport Wagon the single most consistent and repetitive codes I've had all were EVAP/Emissions-related.

The one thing LOTS of people forget about is WHY a canister contributes.

The Vapor (charcoal) canister starts contributing is one simple mistake owners make: Topping off the tank with gas after the pump pops/stops. "Topping off" is bad because right on the side of the gas filler neck metal tube roughly less than 10" where the pump nozzle is driving in fuel: there are 2 things on opposite sides of the filler tube:

The is an anti-spill "rollover valve which helps prevent accident caused Fuel spills. When pressure hits it It opens a vacuum line down the EVAP solenoid to discharge fuel back to the tank.

Also on the other side there is a medium size hose that runs VAPOR to the canister.

When you topp off to high, of abruptly/roughly, you are forcing raw fuel against the rollover valve AND pushing fuel down the hose into the Vapor Canister. Contaminating the charcoal and ruining the canister all together.

Simple way to check a Vapor canister on ANY vehicle. Remove it and weight it. If its more than about 2-3 pounds? Its been filled with fuel. Also someone mentioned charcoal pellets in lines when disconnected. This is a sign raw fuel has been forced into the canister and its toast.

Last note: Parts sourcing

The canister itself can normally be found on Rockauto.com, the Dorman Brand (well respected) around $60. New from Subaru? up to $300-400 depending on year.

The Vent Valve and Purge valve (under hood on the front of the intake manifold to the left of the TB) , are under $50 each from Subaru, not bad.

The rear vent Solenoid is the real bugger. $130 - $150 Rockauto randomly has it. But usually this is a connection/Wiring issue.

All of the Molded EVAP hoses are still sold by Subaru. Figure you'll spend $125-$150 on the 4 big molded hoses. I don't recommend trying to use 1/2" or 5/8" heater bulk hose because the area back there is tight, especially on the GC8-GD's (98-07)

I fought this the first time for almost 2 solid years trying to get the car pass emissions. I ended up replacing everything.

The cap (Subaru ONLY!) , filler tube (rockauto), the roll over valve, the canister, vent, vent valve, the vent filter canister, vent solenoid, front purge valve, molded hoses, and used new silicone hose on the long smaller vacuum/vent hoses. I literally through the entire parts book at the EVAP.

I've been totally fine for almost 4.5 years. Recently I started the pump filling the tank, went inside for a soda and a pretzel and heard the warning buzzer for the station going off. Looked out the auto-shut-off for the pump didn't stop and fuel all over the side of the car and the ground. Pump forced almost 4 extra gallons out all over everything... That's a crap-ton of fuel @ $at the time $3.15/gallon.

Last week the P0447 came back and I get a random P0457 as well.

So new canister, Vent, and wiring pigtails from iwire are on the way.

Best of luck everyone.

~Rob
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