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Old 08-06-2020, 09:53 AM   #3726
Patrick Olsen
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1996 Impreza coupe

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I haven't completely forgotten about my swap. One day it will run again... I think. I got the harness from iWire (merged for Vi-pec V88 and EZ30 into '97 2.5GT) over 2 years ago, then sat on it for about 18 months doing almost nothing. Finally started messing around with it all a few months ago, starting with getting the harness back into the car.

I started over on the driver side, as that white plastic piece bolts to the firewall, so that was a good place to start so that the harness wasn't just draped all over everything and a mess to try to work with.


Here I've put some of the wiring through the upper/left of the two big firewall holes. That was just temporary so I could eyeball how it sits and figure out where I need to put some Techflex wrap on there. I've pulled that clump of wiring back into the interior so I can wrap/tape it, then I'll feed it back through and install the big grommet.


I routed the harness over to the passenger side and snaked it down to the passenger kick panel. There are about a half dozen connections there which I reconnected - the first reconnections! I just hope they tuck behind the kick panel like they're supposed to! It's kind of a knot of wiring, and I'm not sure I have all the connectors positioned the way they were initially. I'll find out eventually!



After accomplishing the above, I did nothing for 6 or 8 weeks. Had to wait to replenish my supply of Techflex wrap, plus I was back to being my normal lazy self.

Wrapped all of the non-engine related stuff that goes through the upper firewall grommet. For a few of them I de-pinned the connector so I could put some shrink-wrap on the end of the Techflex, but that was a bit of a pain, so for the others I just used electrical tape.



Pulled all that through the firewall and got the grommet seated. Of course, I did all the wrapping with everything inside the car where it was easier to work on it all, but once it was through the firewall the branch that runs over to the driver side strut tower wouldn't reach. Newman! So I had to undo some of my work, all due to a ground wire that connects ground points at the back of each strut tower.

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Old 08-06-2020, 09:54 AM   #3727
Patrick Olsen
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Join Date: Jul 1999
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Location: Where the Navy sends me...
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1996 Impreza coupe

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After doing that I had to rest for another 8-10 weeks. I was so busy not going to work that I just didn't had the time to work on the car. But I finally got back to it in June. I got the wiring for the first main firewall grommet all cleaned up:


Of course, after doing that I realized that I should've put all that wiring heading to the left in the picture in a single, larger Techflex wrap, then split them out individually over by the passenger strut tower. Ah well... Something to come back to later.

I then moved onto the other big grommet, which has all of the engine stuff coming through it. Got that installed:




That came already wrapped by iWire, hence the different style of woven wrap. I didn't want to undo/redo all that, since it has nice, clean heat-shrink ends on the wrap, as you can see in the 2nd pic. That 2nd pic also shows the harness plugged into the connectors on the engine. Huzzah!

I did that in early/mid June, then stalled for 6 or 7 weeks. A week or so ago I got around to routing the wiring for the DCCD controller for the 6-speed's center diff. That required a bit of cutting and splicing to use an adapter harness that iWire provided (to clean up the install of the 6MT in a car that didn't originally come with one). The grommet that I intended to use was old and dried out, but it's a 1" (25mm?) hole in the firewall, so I bought a pack of new grommets on Amazon. I de-pinned the iWire adapter harness so I could pass the wiring through the grommet, then reinstalled the connector.



With the adapter harness plugged in:


(The 6 wires go to the DCCD and the neutral and reverse switches.)

From inside the car:


6 wires spliced, wrapped up, and good to go:


I still need to get the wideband O2 sensor wiring routed into the car, which will probably be through a 1.5" hole over on the driver side of the firewall. Once the WBO2 wiring is in, I think I'll be ready to reinstall the HVAC stuff and get the dashboard back in.

I also need to figure out where the Vi-pec ECU is going to sit. The Vi-pec comes with a mounting bracket; if I use that, it's a little too tall to fit under the factory ECU cover plate. But if I don't use that mounting bracket, I'm not really sure how to secure the ECU. It's been suggested to me elsewhere that I should just use some heavy duty Velcro, so I may just go that route. The combination of the Velcro, plus the factory ECU cover plate, should sandwich the Vi-pec in there nicely.
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Old 09-05-2020, 04:45 PM   #3728
martinjs
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Default ez36 pinouts

Hi all, doing a conversion: ez36 into VW Vanagon. Sorry if this is the wrong thread, have been searching for the pinouts on the CET5401F connector which connects engine management at the engine (socket sits at back of engine). Have a Link G4X and want to be able to plug into this socket (have sourced a plug). Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks in advance...
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Old 09-19-2020, 03:28 AM   #3729
SoCoNoHa
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Great progress Pat! I've been reading your posts over the years, and am glad to see your Legacy coming together! I also have a 97 LGT, mine's getting a built 2.2L with old JDM Legacy RS heads! Eventually...

Anyway, just wanted to give some encouragement. I recently worked through some wiring troubles with my ez30 Impreza, stripped/traced/re-spliced the harness like five times, turned out to be a dirty connector at the engine harness...

Keep your head up, keep tinkering! Can't wait to see this beauty finished.
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Old 10-30-2020, 10:23 PM   #3730
donkeytits1
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*edit OK typed this up for what I assumed was the last page - But I'll leave it here for reference

For anyone wanting to use an EZ30D, I would suggest using the original ECU. I have done this in my conversion, and even with a manual trans it is possible to stop it throwing engine lights without flashing it or using big resistor banks. I can provide info on this for anyone who needs it

Major draw backs with a stand alone is it needs a calibration. The EZ30D cal is still not unpacked (from what I can gather) so any base 'tune' would be created from scratch. Having worked as an engine calibration engineer for a major OEM, I can say replicating all the work that they do is basically infeasible for a normal mechanic/tuner.

OEM spark timing algorithms generally have a closed loop control that pushes it up to the knock limit (and EZs do knock on occasion) and so that leaves basically no power gains on the table for tuners, even with high octane fuel

So if you want to remain nat aspirated and you want a good knock calibration, reasonable fuel economy and optimised spark timing I would suggest using the original computer. It works pretty well and a stock EZ30D with a manual trans is pretty fun, even if it is the ugly ducking of the EZ lineup!

Last edited by donkeytits1; 10-30-2020 at 10:31 PM.
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Old 10-31-2020, 12:53 PM   #3731
SoCoNoHa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donkeytits1 View Post
with a manual trans it is possible to stop it throwing engine lights without flashing it or using big resistor banks
Ok, I'm listening... I've gotten rid of the CELs, but only with the aforementioned resistors. I'll be getting my ECU reflashed for a higher redline anyway, but I'm still interested to know your secrets.
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Old 11-02-2020, 04:25 PM   #3732
RedMonkey999
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Would anyone be interested in stock EZ30R internals with extremely low miles (sub-1000 mi)? I tore down the block years ago, and was planning to rebuild, but decided to just go with a JDM engine due to damage I did to one of the case halves in my inexperienced haste at the time.

I have pistons, rods, crankshaft, cams, heads, timing chain/guides, etc all in near-perfect condition, already out of the engine, in boxes, just waiting to be used.
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Old 12-10-2020, 07:21 PM   #3733
Alcyone_impreza
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Default Ez30 test fit

I was finally able to pull the ej253 I siezed in my 06 impreza and test fit the ez30r I got, and it fits surprisingly well...

I haven't done any of the wiring or anything yet, still waiting on my clutch to come in so I can actually bolt it up to the trans and see if I'm gonna need pusher fans. I'm gonna pull it back out and do a bunch of preventive maintenance, possibly spray some engine enamel on it too while I'm waiting.

I just wanted to ask what exactly I need to get it running computer wise, I read somewhere the 30r needs an input from the key, ecu, and gauge cluster to start but I don't know how true that is. I'm using the only ez30 ecu I could find, a 6mt ez30d ecu I got on ebay.

Any help and advice is appreciated, thanks in advance
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Old 12-10-2020, 08:00 PM   #3734
Kito818
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Dark grey/light black?

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Please delete me.

Last edited by Kito818; 12-10-2020 at 08:45 PM.
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Old 12-10-2020, 08:46 PM   #3735
Kito818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alcyone_impreza View Post
I was finally able to pull the ej253 I siezed in my 06 impreza and test fit the ez30r I got, and it fits surprisingly well...

I haven't done any of the wiring or anything yet, still waiting on my clutch to come in so I can actually bolt it up to the trans and see if I'm gonna need pusher fans. I'm gonna pull it back out and do a bunch of preventive maintenance, possibly spray some engine enamel on it too while I'm waiting.

I just wanted to ask what exactly I need to get it running computer wise, I read somewhere the 30r needs an input from the key, ecu, and gauge cluster to start but I don't know how true that is. I'm using the only ez30 ecu I could find, a 6mt ez30d ecu I got on ebay.

Any help and advice is appreciated, thanks in advance
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alcyone_impreza View Post
I was finally able to pull the ej253 I siezed in my 06 impreza and test fit the ez30r I got, and it fits surprisingly well...

I haven't done any of the wiring or anything yet, still waiting on my clutch to come in so I can actually bolt it up to the trans and see if I'm gonna need pusher fans. I'm gonna pull it back out and do a bunch of preventive maintenance, possibly spray some engine enamel on it too while I'm waiting.

I just wanted to ask what exactly I need to get it running computer wise, I read somewhere the 30r needs an input from the key, ecu, and gauge cluster to start but I don't know how true that is. I'm using the only ez30 ecu I could find, a 6mt ez30d ecu I got on ebay.

Any help and advice is appreciated, thanks in advance
Nicely done, and welcome to The Project. I know there are some differences but your 06 and my 09 engine bay should be about the same size, if you use the factory H6 Outback, or OE equivalent, radiator you should also be able to mount the stock fans as well. I have the fans from an 03 outback with an H6, I took its radiator too but it started leaking in less than 6 months, got an OE replacement and it to has started leaking, but it lasted about a year. I am waivering on buying an all aluminum one or having one custom made to be stronger but still look like a factory radiator, which has been the intent behind my project. That said the stock fans and radiator should fit with clearance of 2ish inches or about 50mm, I haven't really measured.

Now for the ECM, do you have an ez30r, with a plastic intake, or an ez30d with a metal intake? I'm not sure that the ECM from the ez30d will run the ez30r, I suppose it might if you don't want the variable cams but it's worth having. I'm also not sure how the ECM will interact with the the 06's CAN bus, I think you'll see some lights on the cluster, though I don't think a CAN bus incompatibility will cause a check engine condition, so if your vehicle inspection is like mine where they just hit the OBDII port and pass you so log as the CEL isn't set, you should be good. What will cause a CEL is the manual transmission, the US model ECUs do not support manual transmissions, though I might have a work around for you, so when you get to that point hit me up, because I've been waiting to find someone who could try what I think I figured out. I'm running a Haltech so I have no OBDII and haven't been able to test my theory for the manual swaps. I would be interested in hearing how your ez30 ECM works for you, I have been considering and interior swap from an outback so I swap to a factory ECU so I don't have to cheat inspection anymore, but thats in the future. Good luck with your build and keep us updated.
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Old 12-10-2020, 11:17 PM   #3736
Alcyone_impreza
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kito818 View Post
Nicely done, and welcome to The Project. I know there are some differences but your 06 and my 09 engine bay should be about the same size, if you use the factory H6 Outback, or OE equivalent, radiator you should also be able to mount the stock fans as well. I have the fans from an 03 outback with an H6, I took its radiator too but it started leaking in less than 6 months, got an OE replacement and it to has started leaking, but it lasted about a year. I am waivering on buying an all aluminum one or having one custom made to be stronger but still look like a factory radiator, which has been the intent behind my project. That said the stock fans and radiator should fit with clearance of 2ish inches or about 50mm, I haven't really measured.

Now for the ECM, do you have an ez30r, with a plastic intake, or an ez30d with a metal intake? I'm not sure that the ECM from the ez30d will run the ez30r, I suppose it might if you don't want the variable cams but it's worth having. I'm also not sure how the ECM will interact with the the 06's CAN bus, I think you'll see some lights on the cluster, though I don't think a CAN bus incompatibility will cause a check engine condition, so if your vehicle inspection is like mine where they just hit the OBDII port and pass you so log as the CEL isn't set, you should be good. What will cause a CEL is the manual transmission, the US model ECUs do not support manual transmissions, though I might have a work around for you, so when you get to that point hit me up, because I've been waiting to find someone who could try what I think I figured out. I'm running a Haltech so I have no OBDII and haven't been able to test my theory for the manual swaps. I would be interested in hearing how your ez30 ECM works for you, I have been considering and interior swap from an outback so I swap to a factory ECU so I don't have to cheat inspection anymore, but thats in the future. Good luck with your build and keep us updated.
Ok perfect, I'll go get an ez radiator and fans soon.

I have an ez30r out of a b9 tribeca, with the plastic mani, and I'm pretty sure my ecm is a jdm 6mt one.(my friend told me it would be easier if I had a manual ecm, but I didn't realize it was for a 30d until it got here) as of right now I just need it to be running and driving, I don't mind if I'm without the variable cams for a bit until I can get an r ecm.

Also enlighten me on what the CAN bus is if you could, this is the first time I've heard of it. The only ez swap forum I've looked at so far is the one Anders made back in 03, so that's about all the information I have as of right now. I jumped into this swap a little too quickly with not enough information haha
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Old 12-12-2020, 12:48 AM   #3737
Kito818
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Dark grey/light black?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alcyone_impreza View Post
Ok perfect, I'll go get an ez radiator and fans soon.

I have an ez30r out of a b9 tribeca, with the plastic mani, and I'm pretty sure my ecm is a jdm 6mt one.(my friend told me it would be easier if I had a manual ecm, but I didn't realize it was for a 30d until it got here) as of right now I just need it to be running and driving, I don't mind if I'm without the variable cams for a bit until I can get an r ecm.

Also enlighten me on what the CAN bus is if you could, this is the first time I've heard of it. The only ez swap forum I've looked at so far is the one Anders made back in 03, so that's about all the information I have as of right now. I jumped into this swap a little too quickly with not enough information haha
The CAN bus is a simplified network that allows various modules in the car to communicate with each other over a network rather than I/O wiring. This allows the manufacturers to save money, wire(weight), and time when wiring the vehicle. The downside (for us) is they communicate via a protocol to transmit information rather than sending raw data, so modules from various models or different vehicles entirely are not interchangeable. Haltech supports the CAN bus from a few STI models but not all of the impreza models so my standalone won't talk with the car, causing the gauge cluster to display a can fault. This should not be seen as a complete description of what CAN bus is, but it should be enough to explain that it is a proprietary means of intra-vehicle communication between the various computers in the car.
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Old 12-12-2020, 01:09 AM   #3738
Kito818
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I want to apologize for two posts, however this needs its own post. If you have a JDM Spec.b 6spd transmission that you got paired with an ez30, find another starter and order it now. They are not rebuildable/repairable, they're not swappable with another starter, Denso and Subaru do not make/stock them anymore, when you CAN find one to buy its not in great shape or is in the neighborhood of 300$ USD. Poking around other sites, people struggled to find the solenoid, and then still had problems with the starter not lasting very well. The starter in question is Subaru part number is 23300aa480, Denso part number is 4280003040. My car is going to likely be down until the end of the year as it will be 10 days for the one I ordered from Japan to arrive. I think I'm going to use the money I was going to spend on having a shop rebuild the front and rear diffs to buy a US 6spd so I wont have another problem in the future. The Spec.b transmission has been rife with multiple minor issues the starter issue is the final nail for me. I might expect to pay 300$ to have someone else source and install a starter for me, but to pay 300$ just to have a starter shipped to me, and then for it to take 10 days, well I'm not happy lol.
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Old 12-23-2020, 05:46 PM   #3739
TeeJayHoward
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When connecting an EZ36D to a 5MT (v5/v6 STi, TY754VBAAA) transmission, I'm assuming I use the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate/etc that was previously attached to the EJ207. Do I need to order new flywheel-to-crankshaft bolts, or can I reuse the ones currently on the engine?
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Old 12-23-2020, 06:05 PM   #3740
Kito818
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Dark grey/light black?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeeJayHoward View Post
When connecting an EZ36D to a 5MT (v5/v6 STi, TY754VBAAA) transmission, I'm assuming I use the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate/etc that was previously attached to the EJ207. Do I need to order new flywheel-to-crankshaft bolts, or can I reuse the ones currently on the engine?
Flywheel and clutch need to match the transmission, because the starter MUST match the transmission. The WRX starter and the STI starter are different, same with the base model starter. The bolts that hold the flywheel to the crank shaft are interchangeable so it doesn't matter which bolts you use. The clutch bolts are also interchangeable. The one thing to be wary of is the bolts from the automatics. I'm not sure if the torque converter uses the same length bolts so if you have a US ez30 that came with the torque converter and flywheel you may not be able to use those bolts for the clutch and flywheel.

By the way are you running an ez30 or an ez36? Please do update me if I'm wrong but I was pretty sure the ez30 got a D and a R, but the ez36 only got a R.
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Old 12-23-2020, 06:13 PM   #3741
TeeJayHoward
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EZ36. It's a D from what I can see:
https://i.imgur.com/NADmUlw.jpg

I think you might be getting confused because the trim it was on is called a 3.6R. None of the EZ engines ever came with an "R" designation. People just use EZ30D to reference the first gen and EZ30R to reference the second, although technically they're both EZ30D engines.
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Old 01-08-2021, 06:43 PM   #3742
Jrlaughter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donkeytits1 View Post
*edit OK typed this up for what I assumed was the last page - But I'll leave it here for reference

For anyone wanting to use an EZ30D, I would suggest using the original ECU. I have done this in my conversion, and even with a manual trans it is possible to stop it throwing engine lights without flashing it or using big resistor banks. I can provide info on this for anyone who needs it

Major draw backs with a stand alone is it needs a calibration. The EZ30D cal is still not unpacked (from what I can gather) so any base 'tune' would be created from scratch. Having worked as an engine calibration engineer for a major OEM, I can say replicating all the work that they do is basically infeasible for a normal mechanic/tuner.

OEM spark timing algorithms generally have a closed loop control that pushes it up to the knock limit (and EZs do knock on occasion) and so that leaves basically no power gains on the table for tuners, even with high octane fuel

So if you want to remain nat aspirated and you want a good knock calibration, reasonable fuel economy and optimised spark timing I would suggest using the original computer. It works pretty well and a stock EZ30D with a manual trans is pretty fun, even if it is the ugly ducking of the EZ lineup!

Any suggestions for jdm ez30r, 6MT. I have the harness and ecu from legacy aswell.

Wiring diagrams may as well be Chinese algebra to me. Appreciate your input, links, youtube, book references, in-person consultations, the whole lot!
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Old 01-08-2021, 06:48 PM   #3743
RedMonkey999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jrlaughter View Post
Any suggestions for jdm ez30r, 6MT. I have the harness and ecu from legacy aswell.

Wiring diagrams may as well be Chinese algebra to me. Appreciate your input, links, youtube, book references, in-person consultations, the whole lot!
I tried going down this route almost a decade ago, and what I kept running into is you basically need the entire wiring harness to be intact for the original ECU to work without issue due to the CANBUS. That wasn't an option for me because I was swapping into an Impreza, but I suppose if you're swapping into a same-gen Legacy, the only problem you'd have to solve would be the RHD to LHD conversion (which I believe would require re-wiring the bulkhead harness).
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Old 01-09-2021, 04:25 PM   #3744
Jrlaughter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedMonkey999 View Post
I tried going down this route almost a decade ago, and what I kept running into is you basically need the entire wiring harness to be intact for the original ECU to work without issue due to the CANBUS. That wasn't an option for me because I was swapping into an Impreza, but I suppose if you're swapping into a same-gen Legacy, the only problem you'd have to solve would be the RHD to LHD conversion (which I believe would require re-wiring the bulkhead harness).
Right and that is where I am. This is a bugeye and I'm kicking myself in the butt for opting out of the earlier ez30d. From what I gathered no issue withCanbus, throttle cable and ACVS.

What was your solution/resolution to the swap?
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Old 01-09-2021, 04:43 PM   #3745
RedMonkey999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jrlaughter View Post
Right and that is where I am. This is a bugeye and I'm kicking myself in the butt for opting out of the earlier ez30d. From what I gathered no issue withCanbus, throttle cable and ACVS.

What was your solution/resolution to the swap?
Lol my "solution/resolution" is an assemblage of swap parts and a completely torn down EZ30R with all the pieces in labelled plastic bags in my garage for the past 7-8 years. That's more a story of my personal life/financial situation, but I had planned to go the standalone route with a Link G4 Xtreme for ECU, and an Aussie Falcon throttlebody to keep the cable throttle. I also planned to do my own harness merge, but lost motivation.

These days, iWire offers a full package standalone engine management + harness merge solution, it just costs lots of money. The cost makes it difficult for me to justify continuing down the EZ30R route vs a JDM EJ207 swap.
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Old 01-21-2021, 09:35 PM   #3746
emptyo
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Hey guys, I'm doing an EZ30R into my vintage Porsche 911 with a Haltech 2500. I'm at the daunting task of connecting the engine loom to the Haltech, and can't seem to find the pinouts of the engine plugs. Anyone have those handy?

Also, it's my first ECU/harness merge. Taking copious notes about i/o tables and that kind of thing, but all suggestions welcome.
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Old 01-22-2021, 01:12 PM   #3747
Kito818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emptyo View Post
Hey guys, I'm doing an EZ30R into my vintage Porsche 911 with a Haltech 2500. I'm at the daunting task of connecting the engine loom to the Haltech, and can't seem to find the pinouts of the engine plugs. Anyone have those handy?

Also, it's my first ECU/harness merge. Taking copious notes about i/o tables and that kind of thing, but all suggestions welcome.
Hey, I did an ez30r/haltech elite 2500 setup in my 09 Impreza, the pedal and the other internal wires are obviously going to be a bit different than your setup, regardless of how you decide to do throttle control, if you decide to not swap the throttle body and add a DBW pedal, or if you swap the trottle body so you don't have to add a DBW pedal. The Impreza had a DBW pedal so it was an easier for me, but just be prepared for that decision before you start. That said, I have the wiring list I used for my engine, https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Ziq-4y8t_DvhCDUoHEHJBwDrFMgd7uJ9hC0VI_5SzP8/edit?usp=drivesdk

It should go without say, but obviously use at your own risk and this is "for reference only". I will not be liable for any damage.

As for this being your first time doing an engine harness, no big deal. As long as you've joined wires together before you'll do just fine. The only difference between an engine harness and any other wires is the quantity. As long as you're comfortable with butt connectors, crimpers, and strippers you'll do fine if you give yourself plenty of time. Give yourself plenty of time, do not rush, do not be cowed by a deadline or timeline, and lots of research. The Subaru FSMs take a little getting used to, as far as how they detail wiring. They're not as verbose as some of the other FSMs I'm used to, and they definitely use a variety of wire colors between years, so don't be surprised if the FSM shows a GY(Green Yellow) wire but you find a Br(Brown) wire instead. The FSMs will show the connector key below the schematic with the side of the connecter with wires coming out of it. First and last pin numbers of a connector. Then the schematic will have a wire that will have a number at each end which representsthe pin number of the wire at the listed connector.
The end point device will have B245(connector number), which you'll find a picture of in the key below the schematic.
The wire color in short form, L(blue), B(black), Br(brown), G(green), Gr(gray), ect. is going to be on or around the wire near where the connector is depicted. What you won't find is a list of connectors with pin numbers, wire colors, and wire descriptions, sadly you're going to have to make some creative connections with the information provided, but with patience you'll figure it out. Good luck and don't be afraid to come back with any questions.
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Old 02-28-2021, 02:55 PM   #3748
Patrick Olsen
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- A little while back I mocked up and installed the Vi-PEC ECU into my '97 Legacy H6 swap project. First, mocking it up - you can see the red and black marks on the brackets where I needed to trim things.





The Vi-PEC is roughly the same size as the stock ECU, but of course doesn't fit in the stock bracket. It's also a bit thicker, particularly if I tried using the mounting bracket that clips onto the bottom of the Vi-PEC; to get it to fit under the ECU cover plate, I couldn't use that Vi-PEC mounting bracket.

So, I elected to go super high tech, with some high strength Velcro and some high density foam that came in some package. There's a layer of foam under the ECU, to give it a flat surface to rest on (since the factory bracket sticks up from the floor pan a bit).



Stuck in place...


Cover plate installed (with a little more trimming along the top edge to clear the corner of the Vi-PEC). There's also another layer of foam between the ECU and the cover plate, so it's pretty well sandwiched in there.


- With the main harness installed and the ECU mounted, it was time to start reassembling the dash. While I had everything apart, I bought a complete new heater unit from Subaru - just figured it was a good "while I'm in here" kind of thing to do on a 23-year-old car. The price of the complete assembly was only $18 more than just the heater core itself, so I figured I might as well buy the whole thing. While the heater unit was new in the box, I think it has been on a shelf for a long time, and some of the foam on the top of the unit was starting to degrade, so I replaced that with some adhesive foam weather strip stuff.



I also replaced some foam where the heater unit seals on the floor ducts:


And installed...
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Old 03-03-2021, 02:34 PM   #3749
Patrick Olsen
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1996 Impreza coupe

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Next up was reinstalling the dash beam, bolting the steering column to the beam (so it was no longer supported by a 2x4" propped under the column), and reinstalling the cooling unit (evaporator in its housing).







A minor thing, but I have to pull the ECU cover plate off to give myself enough room to get the evaporator drain hose reattached to the bottom of the cooling unit and routed out through a grommet in the firewall. I got the cooling unit in place about midnight last night and didn't feel like doing that last bit.
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