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Old 06-02-2016, 05:06 PM   #51
Grap
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Originally Posted by cwb124 View Post
That's everything. New lineset, changing my condensate drain out from draining to the floor to a pump down to the septic (not sure it's necessary, it's been fine as is). Charging. No mention of permits, I don't think they need them. Removal of old system.

No ductwork needs to happen as it's basically a one for one replacement, although they are giving me a bigger air filter duct area thingy.

Edit - I have no condenser pad currently, it's sitting on the mulch. They are putting in a crushed stone + fiberglass pad.
Maybe see if they'll clean the ductwork while they have it open?

Yeah, that's not a bad price, all in.
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Old 06-02-2016, 05:35 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grap View Post
Maybe see if they'll clean the ductwork while they have it open?

Yeah, that's not a bad price, all in.
Damn...I really thought it would be around $10k.

What kills me also is I was 100% sure geothermal would come in at $25k, and with the 30% tax credit that's $17,500. $4k extra is a no brainer to go to geothermal is you ask me. But this same guy came in at like $28k just for the HVAC equipment. Then $9k to drill Goddddddamnit.
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Old 06-02-2016, 05:39 PM   #53
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Damn...I really thought it would be around $10k.

What kills me also is I was 100% sure geothermal would come in at $25k, and with the 30% tax credit that's $17,500. $4k extra is a no brainer to go to geothermal is you ask me. But this same guy came in at like $28k just for the HVAC equipment. Then $9k to drill Goddddddamnit.
Yeah, HVAC prices have gone through the roof. I shopped a replacement 80,000 btu furnace with a 2.5 ton 14 seer A/C unit, with linesets for like $2,300...I'm sure a contractor would charge close to 10K to do it.
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Old 06-02-2016, 05:44 PM   #54
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just got my roofing panels in today Installer wont be able to do it for a couple weeks, but weve got 3 price increases coming(industry wide) between now and July, so I had to get it. Kinda sad for someone who used to install metal to get someone to do it for them, but I gots no time. I'll post some pics when done....black panels on a white house with black shutters....should look great.
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Old 06-02-2016, 05:51 PM   #55
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Damn...I really thought it would be around $10k.

What kills me also is I was 100% sure geothermal would come in at $25k, and with the 30% tax credit that's $17,500. $4k extra is a no brainer to go to geothermal is you ask me. But this same guy came in at like $28k just for the HVAC equipment. Then $9k to drill Goddddddamnit.
This has me seeing dollar signs when I need to do this in the next 5 years.
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Old 06-02-2016, 06:05 PM   #56
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This has me seeing dollar signs when I need to do this in the next 5 years.
Yeah I was surprised at how high it was. I have 2 more estimates coming in, plus another geothermal guy tomorrow. I'm not expecting a drastically reduced estimate for equivalent systems.

Sorta gripe: KeystoneHelp provides low interest financing up to $20k for high efficiency products and home improvements. I am approved but you need SEER ***8805; 15.0, EER ***8805; 12.5, and HSPF ***8805; 8.5 to qualify for what I'm getting. The systems I got quotes for are SEER ***8805; 15.5, EER ***8805; 12, and HSPF ***8805; 8.5. You can't get the EER rating up unless you oversize the system, which I really don't want to do and which doesn't make sense. Even if I went to 18 SEER I only get 15.2 EER. Crap.

Also, HVAC sales guys are funny. They don't want to "trash" other companies but they certainly go right on trashing other companies.
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Old 06-02-2016, 06:48 PM   #57
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This is why people need teh mad skilz.

Really not that much to framing some walls and a flat slanted roof.

Nail gun, hammer, level, tape measure, pencil, circular saw, and chalk line will pretty much do it.

Top plate, bottom plate, studs, and rafters.

A couple of YouTube vids to build confidence and most able-bodied dudes should be able to handle it.

Think of the education level of most guys doing home construction. Not that high.
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Old 06-02-2016, 07:25 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by f4phantomii View Post
This is why people need teh mad skilz.

Really not that much to framing some walls and a flat slanted roof.

Nail gun, hammer, level, tape measure, pencil, circular saw, and chalk line will pretty much do it.

Top plate, bottom plate, studs, and rafters.

A couple of YouTube vids to build confidence and most able-bodied dudes should be able to handle it.

Think of the education level of most guys doing home construction. Not that high.
Yep, and I can spend the next 5 months studying building codes where I live. Then there's my notorious inattention to detail and epic incompetence at menial tasks. When I get bored, bad things happen... and I bore easily. Just no. I have no talent for this ****. I DO like stonework. I made my patio and walkways out of blue flagstone. That's mostly because it was like a puzzle figuring out how to get the pieces to fit into the shape I wanted. This wash rinse repeat stuff I will find a way to screw up.
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Old 06-02-2016, 07:30 PM   #59
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Your lack of carpentry skills makes Baby Jesus cry.
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Old 06-02-2016, 07:45 PM   #60
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Your lack of carpentry skills makes Baby Jesus cry.
If you put a nail gun in my hands I can probably accidentally put him out of his misery.
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Old 06-02-2016, 08:55 PM   #61
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Came home yesterday to AC at 80. Luckily, it was because we had forgotten to turn on the upstairs AC, which was sitting at 95!

90 mins later, we're back to 75

Decided to go through w/ staining the concrete floor in my new store, vs the hardwood.


Also, yay for new thread.
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Old 06-02-2016, 09:36 PM   #62
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New question, any homeowners dealt with widespread noxious weed control?

I've got 2-3 acres of forest (mainly ash and very old apple trees) that has been completely taken over with garlic mustard, and have a notice from the town that I'm required to "eradicate" it.

Hand pulling and bagging (recommended) is going to be about 1000 hours labor. I started spraying...but I'm looking at 300 gallons of 1% spray to cover everything...and that will kill all the good stuff too.
Use diesel and a match. When the fire department gets there just be like "shhhh, eradicating".
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Old 06-02-2016, 09:49 PM   #63
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Does anyone know about tree trimming? I have a mature red oak in my front yard. I need to trim it but I heard you shouldn't this time of year because of oak wilt. Would treating the limb with pruning paint prevent wilt? Or should I just not risk it and wait?
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Old 06-02-2016, 09:52 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samagon View Post
Use diesel and a match. When the fire department gets there just be like "shhhh, eradicating".
Or a propane burner? You can just burn it at a controlled pace if you want, I have one I kill all sorts of isht with. Ha ha, you have seeds and/or pollen, um, nope...
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Old 06-02-2016, 10:11 PM   #65
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Does anyone know about tree trimming? I have a mature red oak in my front yard. I need to trim it but I heard you shouldn't this time of year because of oak wilt. Would treating the limb with pruning paint prevent wilt? Or should I just not risk it and wait?

just wait. and dont use any sort of sealant on the cut.

unless of course theres imminent danger of the tree crashing into your living room.
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Old 06-02-2016, 10:27 PM   #66
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Or a propane burner? You can just burn it at a controlled pace if you want, I have one I kill all sorts of isht with. Ha ha, you have seeds and/or pollen, um, nope...
This has been on my 'to buy' list for a long time.
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Old 06-02-2016, 10:29 PM   #67
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Regarding recessed, or not, lighting check out this stuff.

www.ilumigreen.com

I can answer any questions you have.
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Old 06-02-2016, 11:10 PM   #68
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those are kinda neat...
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Old 06-02-2016, 11:44 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justafour View Post
Does anyone know about tree trimming? I have a mature red oak in my front yard. I need to trim it but I heard you shouldn't this time of year because of oak wilt. Would treating the limb with pruning paint prevent wilt? Or should I just not risk it and wait?
You can trim it any time of the year. Best to do when its dormant, but you can do it in the middle of summer as long as you dont go nuts and lob off huge limbs.
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Old 06-03-2016, 12:13 AM   #70
Matt A
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Originally Posted by UKscooby View Post
Regarding recessed, or not, lighting check out this stuff.

www.ilumigreen.com

I can answer any questions you have.
how much?
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Old 06-03-2016, 12:14 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by etothen View Post
Or a propane burner? You can just burn it at a controlled pace if you want, I have one I kill all sorts of isht with. Ha ha, you have seeds and/or pollen, um, nope...
http://www.harborfreight.com/propane...ter-91037.html

http://i.imgur.com/9jIONPs.jpg
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Old 06-03-2016, 01:31 AM   #72
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how much?
Depending on options about $40 at the most.
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Old 06-03-2016, 03:29 AM   #73
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It's finally time to get some education in concrete. Finally got my stupid yard nearly flattened out. It's little - about 20x25 - but when we moved in it was just a hill. About 7 feet of elevation change from front to back.

I raised the front 14 inches and knocked the back down about the same amount. Then flattened all but the rear three feet out.

Now I just need to build some sort of retaining wall to separate the front and rear sections. Seems easy enough, except I know exactly dick about cinderblock/concrete walls and stuff.. - and I hate paying people to do stuff for me.
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Old 06-03-2016, 03:17 PM   #74
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Went to turn on the automatic sprinkler system. I have water flowing, but it's not enough to pop any of the heads up. They just spray a little from the hole in the top.

It appears that I'm getting low flow/pressure through the backflow prevention valve. Opening the manifold, then turning the water doesn't spray near as hard as I think it should.

This was supposed to be easy
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Old 06-03-2016, 03:19 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by Calebz View Post
It's finally time to get some education in concrete. Finally got my stupid yard nearly flattened out. It's little - about 20x25 - but when we moved in it was just a hill. About 7 feet of elevation change from front to back.

I raised the front 14 inches and knocked the back down about the same amount. Then flattened all but the rear three feet out.

Now I just need to build some sort of retaining wall to separate the front and rear sections. Seems easy enough, except I know exactly dick about cinderblock/concrete walls and stuff.. - and I hate paying people to do stuff for me.
I've used the scallop shaped bricks before. They have a small lip on the back edge that you put behind the row below to keep them from sliding out. Probably the easiest to DIY.

Just make sure the first row is level and true, otherwise
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