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Old 09-25-2018, 05:51 PM   #126
Sgt.Gator
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At The Ridge race I had a problem: The vac line from the intake manifold to the BOV popped of the intake manifold. It's an aftermarket silicone hose that is much slicker than an oem rubber hose. It's done this before but apparently the addition of a zip tie wasn't enough.

So with no BOV opening the IC silicone hose connector at the throttle body popped off. One lap into the race and no boost!

I pulled into the hot pit and my crew found the BOV hose off and re-installed it. They didn't see the IC connector had slipped of the bottom of the throttle body. Back on the track...still no boost.

Back into the hot pit and they looked all over engine but didn't spot the problem. I went back out and ran 99% of the race with natural aspiration. This is only possible with a speed density tune. A hybrid or MAF tune and you're engine comes to a quick stop and won't start. The same thing happened to me in the Silver Eagle, in the same race, in the same raining conditions a few years ago. Only it had a hybrid tune and so that was that.

The "good" part was it was pouring down rain, which helps equalize the low powered cars with the high powered ones. However if I'd been running with full boost I probably would have taken second or possibly won the race. I ended up 4th in our class.

If you've never raced wheel to wheel in the rain the opening lap Turn 1 is a moment you'll never forget. Midpack, you know there are 10 cars in front of you less than 1 car length apart, and 10 more behind you the same. As you hit 80 mph on the front straight they all disappear and you pray everyone in front of you is hitting the brake zone/turn in at the right place because the best you can do is follow taillights. Here's the opening lap last Saturday at the The Ridge ICSCC One hour Enduro. And the odd thing is I love racing in the rain. I wish 50% of our races were in a downpour!:


The BOV vac line now has a fuel injection clamp on it!

Last race of the season is the weekend at Portland International Raceway, the Cascade 2-4-8 Hour Enduro race. I'm pitting with the Retro Racing Team. The Blue Sake bomber is entered in the 2 Hour and the 4 Hour Enduros. Retro drivers will drive for part of the two and four hour races. Then I'll crew on their 8 hour entry.

If you'd like to come out and help we can probably use some spare crew hands. PM if you'd like to be on the pit crew for the Blue Sake Bomber and Retro's new Honda K powered Miata.
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Old 09-26-2018, 12:20 PM   #127
Patrick Olsen
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Saw your video posted on the Track Subarus FB group - pretty crazy at the start!

So what was the resolution on the blown head gasket from a couple/few months back?
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Old 09-27-2018, 01:26 PM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post
Saw your video posted on the Track Subarus FB group - pretty crazy at the start!

So what was the resolution on the blown head gasket from a couple/few months back?
It wasn't blown! We did the CO2 sniffer test, nothing. We did compression and leakdown tests, nothing. I think the bubbling in the coolant overflow tank must have been a hotspot with air that was finally working it's way out. We flushed the coolant and this time used my UView 550000 Airlift tool to fill it. No coolant issues anymore.

I've been thru so many engines in the last 4 years that any sign of something not being right I freak out. I missed two races which has cost me the Enduro Championship for 2018. Mathematically I could still win the championship this Saturday at PIR but the current leader would have to no show or drop out right away for me to win. He's in the orange Viper right in front of me in the rain video above. If you aren't busy Saturday come to Portland International and watch the only LeMans style start in the NW. The start is at 10:45, there is no admission charge.

On the subject of diff coolers...my Legacy GT race car that was built by Phoenix Performance for the GrandAm series had AN lines - cooler/pump - plumbed into the stock diff cover. I've not added a cooler to the STI because I've never seen the oem diff temp warning light come on, but I've thought many times about adding an aftermarket diff cover with greater capacity and ready with extra ports for cooler lines. After watching this series of videos testing aftermarket diff covers I think I'll stick with the oem cover and just plumb into it.

If you're thinking of buying an aftermarket diff cover you should watch the entire series of test videos.

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Old 09-27-2018, 04:05 PM   #129
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Yeah, I watched the series. I like Gale Banks and his simple engineering methodology to testing and validating.
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Old 10-04-2018, 09:26 PM   #130
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The season finale for the NWMECS Enduro Championship. CRR and Retro Racing came together to take 1st Pace in the 4 Hour Enduro and 2nd Place in the 2 Hour Enduro. It was great racing at Portland International Raceway. Big thanks to our Sponsor, Subaru of Bend. Your continuing support and shop work has made it possible to be competitive in endurance racing with our STI. And thanks also to our tuner, Surgeline.

We would have taken first or second in the 8 hour if a suspension bolt hadn't fallen out.

Looking at the Vbox video/data is the best driver improvement tool ever. Jeff and Chris, both multiple ICSCC Championship winners with thousands of laps at PIR, were 3 seconds a lap faster than me. What makes it so great is taking all the variables out when trying to learn why. Same car, same tires, same weather, same track. Within 5 minutes of looking at our video/data comparisons I know exactly what I need to do to be faster. I'll bet if I went back out on the track today I would cut 2 of those 3 seconds out within 5 laps.

Chris was in the car on the last lap of the 4 hour Enduro when things went badly. He'd just gone into the chicane when he lost all power and the car spun out. A turn worker came over and told him the right rear wheel was cocked out at a 30 degree angle.

Towed in on a trailer. We quickly determined the upper suspension bolt tying the coilover to the hub had fallen out. We found a bolt and put it back together with an eyeball camber setting.

But still no go forward. Further checking found the left rear CV axle had sheared off inside the outer CV boot. We called every auto parts store and dealer in the Portland metro area, no one had an STI CV axle. So we welded the broken one back together. That lasted 6-7 laps, which was 5-6 more than we expected. It was too bad, we were doing great in the 8 hour up to that point.

I'm not complaining, I'll take a First and Second anytime!

The good news: The engine ran great. There no issues with oil pressure, oil temp, coolant temp, or tranny temp. And PIR is a 75% of the time WOT track.

My only regret is not buying about 30 of these Continental Race Slicks while I had the chance on the close out sale. I got 8 of them and they work great.

It's been a great season. I have a couple of more track days left at ORP to do some testing on the FF 818R and the Palatov before the cars go into hibernation.






The missing Bolt!

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Old 12-24-2018, 05:59 PM   #131
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As ya'll know I am an advocate for dry sumping your Subaru engine. But if there was a cheaper way without the added complexity and potential failure points....
Which led me to looking at Saker cars (again). Although they are almost unknown in the US, and don't seem to be taking the world by storm except in the Netherlands, they have been around for 16 years under various owners on different continents and are still making some very fast Subaru powered cars. It looks like they have a new website, at least since the last time I looked at them:




In digging around they claim up to 2.0 G cornering, and they don't use a dry sump or any kind of Accusump/Moroso accumulator. Part of the reason is they are essentially a stock powered EJ22 at 275 HP. But that explains the reliability except for the oiling.



I found the Owners Manual, Service Manual, and Parts catalog at their website. They have a very complete parts catalog, down to specific fasteners.

They have two items that are unique to their wet sump system. A plate that goes between the block and the sump pan, and the sump pan itself. With the magic of Photoshop I was able to enhance the parts catalog image to see what is inside the pan:




I don't know if you have to be a Saker owner to buy these parts. I've emailed them but of course it's Holiday time so I don't expect to hear back from them for awhile.

Merry Christmas everyone!

And if you're looking for a last minute Christmas present:



https://www.belmitdevelopment.com/st...902/category=0

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Old 12-25-2018, 01:28 PM   #132
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Good information in the Saker Sump plate.
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Old 12-27-2018, 01:05 PM   #133
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Yeah, Cosworth had a windage plate that would have a similar effect for the wetsump system, but they covered much more area and used rubber flaps as trap doors as well.

As for that woefully complex piston squirter set up...well yeah. Link is down but no doubt it's lots of money for a single side squirter set up.
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Old 12-27-2018, 04:57 PM   #134
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Nice Car
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Old 01-09-2019, 02:11 PM   #135
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Super into this thread and your dedication to the platform/motor is admirable! Good luck in 2019!
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Old 01-09-2019, 03:52 PM   #136
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Looks very much like the RCM weld in Group N sump additions
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Old 04-30-2019, 02:06 PM   #137
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The revised oil cooler location and flat bottom in progress. The fabrication work is being done at Arcflash in Bend. It's very good work.

The 6 speed and CF drive shaft are in. The transmission was rebuilt at ZF Design in Colorado. New shift forks, syncros, sliders. The real expensive parts: Group N DCCD rebuild, and I'm replacing the gears with Spec B ratios.

We did some testing at ORP, the oil cooler and tranny worked well. I had some misfires above 5,000RPM which may just be old gas. Once I cycled thru the old gas and replaced with fresh gas the misfires reduced by 95%.
The power steering started losing power as I made a turn into a corner, then would kick in again when I throttled up at the apex. I almost went off the track the first time it happened. I;m not sure yet if it's low on fluid, loose belt, or the pump going out. I'll know more today.

On a side note: My friend Shralp was there in his killer Legacy GT Wagon. I overheard guys talking in the break room: "Did you see that Outback! It's unreal fast. He was passing the ZL1 and the ZR1!" "Yeah, I saw it, it's so fast. That guy is kicking butt in the Expert Group." "Man, that ZL1 must be pi$$ed off!"


..

Additionally: Engines:
With two Subaru powered race cars I need spare engines! My friends at Retro Racing are converting their 818R to Honda K power so their two Subaru engines are coming to me on consignment. I'll probably rebuild and keep one, and sell the other. If you are interested in either engine let me know. Particularly for you folks in the PacNW. The engines are currently in Vancouver BC, but will be coming to my garage at Oregon Raceway Park soon.

Here's what's available. They are sold as a setup, not parted out. At least not yet.:
1) EJ207 ver 5 RA
Cosworth pistons, Mahle rods, new stock crank, new rings, water pump mod, new oil pump, new timing belt, no turbo, ceramic coated Perrin up pipe with blanket, Coated Perrin EL header, remote filter boss (10an), stock RA cams and heads, dash 10 head vents, Dry Sump oil pan (-12 fittings), 750cc injectors, dash 6 fuel rails.

This engine ate new bearings after 10min on the dyno, but did pull 285whp at the wheels at 12psi


2) EJ207, ver 5 RA stroked to 2.3l

OMG pistons and rods, stage 2 cams and valve springs, RA heads (ported), billet dry sump pan (-12 fittings), no turbo, new stainless Perrin up-pipe, no header, new timing belt (less than 3 hours) water pump mod, high volume oil pump (either 12mm Cosworth or 11mm blueprinted) king racing bearings. This engine blew a head gasket after a bad fix by the engine builder. Needs to be torn down and cleaned, then put back together. This engine pulled 310whp at 10psi.


3) We also have the full wiring harness to Racepak ECU, including boost control module for one engine. This harness is literally, plug and play. We can include the IQ3 display as well, with the separate data logging module.

Last edited by Sgt.Gator; 04-30-2019 at 02:30 PM.
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Old 04-30-2019, 06:38 PM   #138
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This car continues to be the benchmark for STi road race cars

Flat bottom floor looks awesome
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Old 05-02-2019, 01:22 PM   #139
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Very cool! What material did you use for the flatbottom/under tray?
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Old 05-04-2019, 02:29 PM   #140
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Quote:
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Very cool! What material did you use for the flatbottom/under tray?
Alumalite. (Sign Board). Great stuff as long as it doesn't get too hot from the exhaust. We've used it on splitters a lot. Your local sign shop sometimes has used signs they'll give you from their recycle bin. The bottom of my LGT splitter has a chopper motorcycle image from a used sign.
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Old 05-06-2019, 12:41 PM   #141
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Quote:
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Alumalite. (Sign Board). Great stuff as long as it doesn't get too hot from the exhaust. We've used it on splitters a lot. Your local sign shop sometimes has used signs they'll give you from their recycle bin. The bottom of my LGT splitter has a chopper motorcycle image from a used sign.
Yeah, if it gets hot, glue that bonds the layers lets go. It otherwise holds up really well.
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Old 05-08-2019, 11:20 AM   #142
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Originally Posted by Sgt.Gator View Post
Alumalite. (Sign Board). Great stuff as long as it doesn't get too hot from the exhaust. We've used it on splitters a lot. Your local sign shop sometimes has used signs they'll give you from their recycle bin. The bottom of my LGT splitter has a chopper motorcycle image from a used sign.
Ah that was my guess! I think I even saw a picture of your LGT splitter on another forum when I started looking into materials and construction a week or two ago. Currently trying to find some scrap at sign shops, but making my splitter out of plywood until I get everything totally dialed. How much lighter would you wager the alumalite is vs. 3/4" ply? 1/4 of the weight?
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Old 05-08-2019, 07:39 PM   #143
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Ah that was my guess! I think I even saw a picture of your LGT splitter on another forum when I started looking into materials and construction a week or two ago. Currently trying to find some scrap at sign shops, but making my splitter out of plywood until I get everything totally dialed. How much lighter would you wager the alumalite is vs. 3/4" ply? 1/4 of the weight?
1/4 the weight or less. It's VERY light.

So far the heat is not an issue after two hours of track testing at ORP. One place the exhaust tip touched the cut out portion of the Alumalite is slightly melted, we'll cut it back another 1/2".

Rear Diffuser finished. Aero wool tufts and camera setup for test. Next stop Pacific Raceways (Auburn WA) on Friday for Test & Tune. If all goes well then the 1 hour Enduro race on Saturday afternoon.

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Old 05-10-2019, 03:44 PM   #144
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Quote:
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1/4 the weight or less. It's VERY light.

So far the heat is not an issue after two hours of track testing at ORP. One place the exhaust tip touched the cut out portion of the Alumalite is slightly melted, we'll cut it back another 1/2".

Rear Diffuser finished. Aero wool tufts and camera setup for test. Next stop Pacific Raceways (Auburn WA) on Friday for Test & Tune. If all goes well then the 1 hour Enduro race on Saturday afternoon.

Noted on the heat thing, but I don't think I'll have any issues there any time soon.

I'll keep digging for budget alumalite. v1 of my splitter will be plywood til I get it all sorted. CAD (cardboard aided design process) is moving along on my track rat

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Old 05-14-2019, 02:28 PM   #145
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ICSCC Enduro Race at Pacific Raceways Saturday. I took 2nd in class. (After the 700 HP Viper dropped out at 40 minutes). The under-tray worked well, maybe too well. My left front brake duct popped out I think due to the splitter pulling down harder than ever, see pic.

I had oil temp issues, at least partly due to the new asphalt at Pacific throwing oily grit up. I had to clean off my race suit after every test session but it didn't occur to me to check the oil cooler inside the trunk..after the race I noticed it was at least 50% blocked off by the grit coming off the rear tires, in thru the NACA ducts and closing up the cooler vanes. Coolant temps were fine, but I still had to run 85% throttle to finish the race. Which was a strategy that worked when the Viper dropped out. I'll probably move the NACA ducting up to the rear quarter window.

The fresh asphalt caused another problem, when it got hot the oil came to the surface and a few race cars will never race again. Particularly Turns 3A thru 6.

Next races in Spokane, I'll be in ST and ME0. I have to get the oil temps fixed perfect, it has the longest straights in the PacNW!

1...
2...
3.4. ..
..5.
..
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Old 05-14-2019, 05:13 PM   #146
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And a modification I wish I'd done years ago, mandatory with a flat bottom. I have lift points and lift bars in 4 places now.

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Old 05-14-2019, 06:13 PM   #147
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Great to hear everything worked out pretty well. Cool pics too!

Is the splitter and/or support rods mounted solely to the bumper skin?
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Old 05-14-2019, 07:29 PM   #148
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Good job, my hero right there.
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Old 05-15-2019, 04:22 AM   #149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteZombie View Post
Great to hear everything worked out pretty well. Cool pics too!

Is the splitter and/or support rods mounted solely to the bumper skin?
The support rods are to air dam that is attached to the bumper skin. The splitter is primarily supported by a bracket underneath, and brackets off the side rails. Apparently I need to up the support on the rods somehow.


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Good job, my hero right there.
Thanks for the support!
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Old 05-28-2019, 03:19 PM   #150
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Next race is Spokane this coming weekend. I'll be in the ST class sprint races and the ME0 Enduro. Any of ya'll in eastern WA come on out!

Next post will have some pics of some minor changes.

The 4 Continental (Hoosier) closeout tires are finally worn out. They were the best race tires I've ever used. They lasted thru 6 hours of racing and didn't give up hardly any time as they wore down. I have 4 more new ones I'll save for the fall 4 hour Enduro. At $150 each I wish I'd bought 40 of them!
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