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Old 02-21-2008, 10:35 PM   #1
ruggedman
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Default Camber Bolt vs Camber Plate Questions

I've been thinking twice about doing the DSpec friendly camber plates because I'm not sure that i'll need the adjustment they offer when they become available.

My goal setup is first and foremost my daily driver, but also it'll be my weekend auto-x machine. I'd like to get -2ish degrees of camber up front and I'll just leave the -1 i've currently got out back. I'll be running DSpecs struts and RCE black springs.

My question is can I achieve my negative camber (in the front) requirements with the addition of just camber bolts? Or will I have to go to plates in order to get this kind of adjustment? It's far from an extreme alignment, but I'd like to get more than the -1.1 I was able to get out of the stock adjustment.

Thanks in advance for your help, I've searched for a while on this topic and have yet to find what I'm looking for.
-Andy
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Old 02-21-2008, 10:44 PM   #2
Mechie3
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One benefit of camber plates is their ease of adjustability. You can run -1 for DD, and then with a jack and allen wrench and 10 minutes go to -2+ and then back againn when you're done. It'll help reduce uneven tire wear.
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Old 02-21-2008, 11:01 PM   #3
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Let me say at this point I don't have concerns about running -2ish for everyday driving. I don't put a huge amount of miles on my car, and the tire wear for the most part evens out with the auto-x abuse the tires take.
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Old 02-21-2008, 11:28 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
One benefit of camber plates is their ease of adjustability. You can run -1 for DD, and then with a jack and allen wrench and 10 minutes go to -2+ and then back againn when you're done. It'll help reduce uneven tire wear.
except that when you adjust camber, you also have to adjust the toe at the same time. I've found that I've had to align my car after every setting change. Currently, I'm at -1 up front but, it toe's in quite a bit if I bump it up to past -2 degrees or more.
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Old 02-22-2008, 12:26 AM   #5
STIV6
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Use a camber bolt in the top and bottom strut hole if one isnt getting you enough camber
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Old 02-22-2008, 12:29 AM   #6
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By moving the tops of the struts inward, plates relocate the roll center for the better and thus improve the camber curve. Additionally, stiffer tops lead to better performance and feel.
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Old 02-22-2008, 01:19 AM   #7
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I think plates will actually move the roll center down slightly.
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Old 02-22-2008, 01:22 AM   #8
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Quote:
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I think plates will actually move the roll center down slightly.
Actually, if it's helping the camber curve, doesn't it have to be moving the roll center up?
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Old 02-22-2008, 02:35 AM   #9
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The tops are angled farther downward, which moves the projected intersection with the control arm, and therefore the roll center, down.

I think. I'm still trying to figure this stuff out.
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Old 02-22-2008, 09:01 AM   #10
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Anyway, back to the original topic I was curious about, no one knows how much negative camber can be gained by putting camber bolts in the lower strut bolt locations?
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Old 02-22-2008, 09:02 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STIV6 View Post
Use a camber bolt in the top and bottom strut hole if one isnt getting you enough camber
Negative. I've read somewhere this is not safe and possibility of the camber bolt failing is high.
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Old 02-22-2008, 09:18 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruggedman View Post
Anyway, back to the original topic I was curious about, no one knows how much negative camber can be gained by putting camber bolts in the lower strut bolt locations?
Probably around -2*, maybe a little less.

If you want extreme amounts of camber then yes, get plates. But more importantly get a solid alignment afterwards (you all ready know this).
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Old 02-22-2008, 09:26 AM   #13
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You can replace your lower bolt with a camber bolt and max it out. This way it will not slip on you. Then you can dial in with your factory bolt on top. I know you can get at least -2 degrees and I think upwards to -2.5 or more. I did't max mine out last season but am thinking of it for this summer.
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Old 02-22-2008, 10:07 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by copterdr View Post
You can replace your lower bolt with a camber bolt and max it out. This way it will not slip on you. Then you can dial in with your factory bolt on top. I know you can get at least -2 degrees and I think upwards to -2.5 or more. I did't max mine out last season but am thinking of it for this summer.
Awesome, that's exactly what I was looking for.
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Old 02-22-2008, 10:39 AM   #15
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Quote:
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except that when you adjust camber, you also have to adjust the toe at the same time. I've found that I've had to align my car after every setting change. Currently, I'm at -1 up front but, it toe's in quite a bit if I bump it up to past -2 degrees or more.
On the alignment rack I showed 0 toe at -1.5. When we slid the plates in to get -2.5, it still showed 0 toe. Moving the plates back to -1.5, toe was still at zero.
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Old 02-22-2008, 06:58 PM   #16
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and what kind of camber plate do you have , do you have camber bolts ? what struts do you have ?
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Old 02-22-2008, 10:42 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feign View Post
Probably around -2*, maybe a little less.

If you want extreme amounts of camber then yes, get plates. But more importantly get a solid alignment afterwards (you all ready know this).
Don't forget you can rotate the plates, and gain caster instead of/in addition to camber. More caster will help reduce camber loss .

-Big fan of added caster
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Old 02-23-2008, 12:35 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
On the alignment rack I showed 0 toe at -1.5. When we slid the plates in to get -2.5, it still showed 0 toe. Moving the plates back to -1.5, toe was still at zero.
I had different results. I was toe'd in over an 1/8" moving from -.5 degrees to -1.75 degrees camber.
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