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02-21-2008, 10:35 PM | #1 |
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Vehicle:2006 WRX Limited WR Blue |
Camber Bolt vs Camber Plate Questions
I've been thinking twice about doing the DSpec friendly camber plates because I'm not sure that i'll need the adjustment they offer when they become available.
My goal setup is first and foremost my daily driver, but also it'll be my weekend auto-x machine. I'd like to get -2ish degrees of camber up front and I'll just leave the -1 i've currently got out back. I'll be running DSpecs struts and RCE black springs. My question is can I achieve my negative camber (in the front) requirements with the addition of just camber bolts? Or will I have to go to plates in order to get this kind of adjustment? It's far from an extreme alignment, but I'd like to get more than the -1.1 I was able to get out of the stock adjustment. Thanks in advance for your help, I've searched for a while on this topic and have yet to find what I'm looking for. -Andy
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02-21-2008, 10:44 PM | #2 |
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One benefit of camber plates is their ease of adjustability. You can run -1 for DD, and then with a jack and allen wrench and 10 minutes go to -2+ and then back againn when you're done. It'll help reduce uneven tire wear.
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02-21-2008, 11:01 PM | #3 |
Scooby Newbie
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Vehicle:2006 WRX Limited WR Blue |
Let me say at this point I don't have concerns about running -2ish for everyday driving. I don't put a huge amount of miles on my car, and the tire wear for the most part evens out with the auto-x abuse the tires take.
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02-21-2008, 11:28 PM | #4 |
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Location: Sonoma, CA
Vehicle:2002 WRX Blue |
except that when you adjust camber, you also have to adjust the toe at the same time. I've found that I've had to align my car after every setting change. Currently, I'm at -1 up front but, it toe's in quite a bit if I bump it up to past -2 degrees or more.
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02-22-2008, 12:26 AM | #5 |
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Use a camber bolt in the top and bottom strut hole if one isnt getting you enough camber
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02-22-2008, 12:29 AM | #6 |
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By moving the tops of the struts inward, plates relocate the roll center for the better and thus improve the camber curve. Additionally, stiffer tops lead to better performance and feel.
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02-22-2008, 01:19 AM | #7 |
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I think plates will actually move the roll center down slightly.
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02-22-2008, 01:22 AM | #8 |
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02-22-2008, 02:35 AM | #9 |
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The tops are angled farther downward, which moves the projected intersection with the control arm, and therefore the roll center, down.
I think. I'm still trying to figure this stuff out. |
02-22-2008, 09:01 AM | #10 |
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Anyway, back to the original topic I was curious about, no one knows how much negative camber can be gained by putting camber bolts in the lower strut bolt locations?
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02-22-2008, 09:02 AM | #11 |
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02-22-2008, 09:18 AM | #12 | |
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Quote:
If you want extreme amounts of camber then yes, get plates. But more importantly get a solid alignment afterwards (you all ready know this). |
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02-22-2008, 09:26 AM | #13 |
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You can replace your lower bolt with a camber bolt and max it out. This way it will not slip on you. Then you can dial in with your factory bolt on top. I know you can get at least -2 degrees and I think upwards to -2.5 or more. I did't max mine out last season but am thinking of it for this summer.
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02-22-2008, 10:07 AM | #14 | |
Scooby Newbie
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Quote:
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02-22-2008, 10:39 AM | #15 |
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On the alignment rack I showed 0 toe at -1.5. When we slid the plates in to get -2.5, it still showed 0 toe. Moving the plates back to -1.5, toe was still at zero.
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02-22-2008, 06:58 PM | #16 |
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and what kind of camber plate do you have , do you have camber bolts ? what struts do you have ?
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02-22-2008, 10:42 PM | #17 | |
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-Big fan of added caster |
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02-23-2008, 12:35 AM | #18 |
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I had different results. I was toe'd in over an 1/8" moving from -.5 degrees to -1.75 degrees camber.
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